B4Q 80-AEB; TD04HL-15T much wow

[ChrisAudi80]

After talking to loxx a bit, the accel enrichments need a lot of work. Still need to get my head around it.
Slowly getting there.
Today's log

[ChrisAudi80]

Yesterday, it started to get trigger errors. Caused primarily by bad GND connections in the adapter, but also because of rpm dropping too low on throttle off and AC on. Seems like the crank and cam pos sensors lose signal when rev drop too low.

It idles at 660 with AC on. Looks like an ISV install is required.

[ChrisAudi80]

Alright, lots of progress today with acceleration enrichment and more VE tuning. Also, managed to get it to idle at 700 or so with AC.
Fixed the major trigger errors. The grounds were bad in the adapter. Do'h.

Also, found out why the tank spits E85 after filling. The rubber cap ring was out of position.

[ChrisAudi80]

No updates for a long time...

Let's see, tuning is getting better. It can comfortably run open loop now. Which I did today to fine tune VE.
Got the AEB IAC hooked up and working. Sorta, but idle is way better now. Accel enrichment is fine. Runs quite smooth now.

Fixed the trigger error. Was a badly soldered wire in the adapter on the Motronic connector side. I touched the cam sensor signal wire, off it came.

Soon the cast control arms I bought for way too much will go on. Just waiting for AK MS to ship the 45mm bushings. Already have much needed strut mount bushes and a thermostat.
Will be interesting to see how to change out the mount bushings, since the coil-over set does not have the allen head in the shock top.

Jonesing for a TD04HL-13G from a Volvo 200 (or so) crank is just not cutting it anymore....

[ChrisAudi80]

So, had an interesting Friday last week.

Finally got the forged control arms with AK MS red bushings installed with new struts mounts and fresh thermostat. Messed up the control arm install a little. They are now flipped and L R swapped so the nuts are on the top. Should not make a difference, except I might have accidentally improved my roll center.

Anyway, drove to the best alignment shop I know. Get there, can't start anymore. After a lot of hassle and a tow at 5PM on a farking FRIDAY in Bangkok, turns out the alternator shit the bed. Now rebuilt with brushes, bearings, charge relay whatnot. Made the voltage reading in VEMS more stable.

Went back to the alignment shop on Monday. Computer was down, but the guy did it manually. Dude knows what he's doing.
Camber was all over the place. Took a bunch of fiddling. Found out the the left front shock is leaking! It's only 6 months old!

So, the budget for brake pad upgrade was shot on the alt. Don't mind so much since that is now taken care off.
Also fixed a bad solder in the adapter on the wire for the fuel pump relay signal.

[ChrisAudi80]

Small update.

Steering feel and response is WAAAY better after previously mentioned stuff installed. I actually have response on-center!
But that left front shock clunking is pissing me off.

[ChrisAudi80]

Another small update.

Had the leaking shock replaced. The managed to install the strut mount bushing upside down so immediately broke the bearing. No worries, had plenty spare from ECS. Note, $1.94 strut mount bushings are junk. There was no middle choice. Original was $55 each!
My budget for the AK motorsport solid mounts ( https://www.akmotorsport.net/shop/all-p ... top-mount/ )was blown on one of our dogs vet bills.

In the meantime, replaced the control arm ball joints.

Still have a wobble at 90kmh, so considering to put Heim joints at both ends of the stock tie rod arms. Will need some modification, I know.
Anyone know the Heim joint sizes I need?

[ChrisAudi80]

Still have a wobble at 90kmh, so considering to put Heim joints at both ends of the stock tie rod arms. Will need some modification, I know.
Anyone know the Heim joint sizes I need?

According to Aaron 5/8" or 1/2", but should use covers.

EDIT: Yes, had an alignment done. Again. Tracks straight. No vibration at 140kmh+ Camber is -1.9*. Very little toe in. Stock caster.

[PRY4SNO]

Nice man, incremental progress adds up.

Do you daily the B4 or the S6?

[ChrisAudi80]

Nice man, incremental progress adds up.

Do you daily the B4 or the S6?

Thanks. I daily the B4, my wife dailies the S6.

[ChrisAudi80]

So, finally the solid strut mounts are in! These pieces are real good quality. Easy to install. Noise level is so close to stock that there is little difference, but you do get better road surface feel.
https://www.akmotorsport.net/shop/all-p ... top-mount/

But... I still have shaking in the steering wheel. Not vibration. Next step is to check the front tires balance, alignment (again ) and swap the inner tie rod bushings. Would like to use heim joints, but that's a bit out right now.

Next step, brake pad upgrade.

[ChrisAudi80]

Weird. On the way to work, had shaking above 100kmh, then on the way back home, almost none.
Took it up to 160 without shaking

Just ordered bushings for the inner part of steering rod arm connected to the rack. I know they are worn out. Hear ticking when moving the steering wheel.
Wish someone sold PU versions...

[the german]

Are your wheels hubcentric?

[ChrisAudi80]

Are your wheels hubcentric?

Yessir, had custom hubcenter adapters made when converted to 5lug. The shaking is nearly gone. Guess it's settling in.
Will see what happens after the tie rod bushings have been replaced.

So far, I love these new mounts.

[ChrisAudi80]

Small update:

Found out what was causing the shaking. It was on the list of to solve, but forgot it. It was the inner tie rod arm bushings. The ones that bolt to the rack.
Got the old bushings taken out and replaced with custom made PU ones. No more shaking! Yay.

However, discovered that left front wheel moved a bit the other day while having an oil pressure sensor installed. Went back to the suspension shop to get that fixed and the front raised 1cm. Car feels real solid now.

Other than that, the tune is coming along well. Changed the boost profile a little down low and added tiny bit of timing in certain places. Sure woke it up even more. However, it seems the puny K03 is coming to the end end of its life. It won't hold any more than 200kpa. Used to handle 218. I'm at 100%dc. Oh shucks.

Up next is making the fuel system safe and better. The giant tank will be chopped a little, gonna get roll-over check valves on the vent system. All that AN fitting stuff sure adds up fast. AN-6 feed line, billet rail, Aeromotive FPR and flex fuel sensor in the bay. Time to get a bit less ghetto on this bitch.

Some pictures.

[PRY4SNO]

Nice progress! Great to get things solved and off the list, before too many pop up to fill the void.

[ChrisAudi80]

Nice progress! Great to get things solved and off the list, before too many pop up to fill the void.

Thanks.

Yeah. There are so many items on the list.

[ChrisAudi80]

So, needed a new battery Just the kind of cash I didn't want to spend. 3.5 years old.

And, it seems like the alternator is not charging normally, even though I had it rebuild a few months ago. Can a regulator go bad that fast? I'm reading 11.7-12.2v with AC on and fans on high speed. I trust there will be warranty on the alt.

In more positive news, I've finally enabled overrun fuel cut and understand it.
The trick to not stall at low rpm stop and go are these settings in VEMS: 0kpa, cut above 1800, enable 1600.

I'll see if it makes any significant reduction in fuel consumption. Just filled the tank.
Speaking of tank, the next step in the plan is modding the tank by cutting off the back end, removing the stock basket and putting in a vertical plate to clamp the pump and level sender to. Also, will be ANing the fuel system, starting with the vent system. Will be adding roll-over check valves.

[Henrybor]

i have a NOS ADO16 long shaft, dont recall if its a Pot Joint or rubber coupling one...
Will confirm you in the next couple of days...

cheers
Luis

[ChrisAudi80]

Oil pressure gauge is in and working. This is with cold engine @ 2000 rpm. Seems OK.

[vt10vt]

Oil pressure gauge is in and working. This is with cold engine @ 2000 rpm. Seems OK.

Question for you- what do you see for a HOT oil pressure? My 1.8t gets about the same as yours cold, once the coolant is up to temp it's right about 20psi @idle but it gets a lot lower than that after it runs at operating temp for a while. Still doesn't throw the oil pressure light, but curious what you're seeing since you're in a hot climate.

[ChrisAudi80]

Oil pressure gauge is in and working. This is with cold engine @ 2000 rpm. Seems OK.

Question for you- what do you see for a HOT oil pressure? My 1.8t gets about the same as yours cold, once the coolant is up to temp it's right about 20psi @idle but it gets a lot lower than that after it runs at operating temp for a while. Still doesn't throw the oil pressure light, but curious what you're seeing since you're in a hot climate.

I see about 15-20psi hot idle and anything above 2000rpm, about 50psi.
I use 5w40 diesel oil.

[ChrisAudi80]

Small update again:

My fuel pump fuse was melting for whatever reason, probably due to corrosion/bad contact, so it was high time to do something about it. Fire waiting to happen.

Finally managed to relay the fuel pump. Because I'm a tard, it took me several days to figure out how to wire it correctly, even after reading loads and asking questions on various FB groups. Marc S. and a guy called Valdas pointed me in the right direction.
I should have looked at the stock wiring diagram again. VAG FPR 208 relay circuit powers injectors and fuel pump.

Long story short: Swapped FPR signal out from VEMS EC36-15 (P259 channel) to EC36-9 (Inj channel) and split the signal to the stock system and relays in trunk.

Anyway, it works now. The pump whine is much higher pitched and I see much less voltage drop in VEMS.
Will do some logging today and will probably have to retune fuel. Again

[PRY4SNO]

Incremental improvements always beat incremental dust increases.

[ChrisAudi80]

Incremental improvements always beat incremental dust increases.

They do.

Now because of disconnecting and reconnecting many times, one of the wires for the RS232 connectors came loose. Fixed that.
So, not really been able to retune yet because of dropped coms.

Some pictures of ghetto ass wiring. The white 3 pin connector is for auxiliary 12v for something else, like fans on a big fuel cooler.