Pat's 1983 URQ Alpine white #603 , 20V in progress

by **the german** » Sun Dec 17, 2017 10:57 pm

Hey, at least the swirlpot came out great!

When I installed my gas furnace I needed something like that, just a lot bigger. I went to HVAC/mechanical shop that was next to my work and the guys there made it for me in an hour in exchange for a 6-pack of Blue Moon. Just skip the office and go straight to the shop door; those are they guys you want to talk to anyway

by **Afterthought** » Sun Dec 17, 2017 11:05 pm

Yeah I have an HVAC buddy, I was picking his brain a bit. But I wanted to see if I could make it .

The catch can Is OK but the welds are not great. I think its gonna get painted wrinkle black though.
Sean pointed it out and now I can't unsee it that with the white engine bay, It would look cool if the intake manifold and turbo compressor matched the valve cover.

by **Afterthought** » Mon Dec 18, 2017 8:53 pm

My dad came out and crushed my design today , engineer style ... Made the vent in one piece on the brake without having to cut it , took way less time than mine .

So pretty cool I’ll have this stove to heat up the shop a bit

by **Afterthought** » Mon Dec 18, 2017 9:08 pm

Got quite a bit of small things done so far this weekend .
I figured out what was wrong with my timing belt . When I ordered the parts I ordered AAN stuff since All of my past engines have been . Forgetting that it’s a 3B block. For some reason the belt was too tight , even when the water pump was set all the way loose.
So I ordered a new timing belt set to be 100% sure I have a perfect setup there . Took it all down to get to the bottom of it .
AAN idler pulley

3B idler pulley

The difference is pretty small but enough

My billet can gear is not showing TDC but the cams are- will have to do a little
But of research on that. Cams , crank, crank pulley , and piston visually all agree TDC.

The water pump is slightly different too. So take note if you use AAN or 3B head and block together make sure you have the right stuff !

Painted some parts

Primer

Textured black

And lastly , figured out where my PS pump will go. This is only the 3rd bracket I’ve sandblasted and prepped thinking I was going to use . This one is stock from a 90 20V . For the alternator . But it gives me the proper spacing to line up the pulley on the PS pump with the middle V on the damper.

by **the german** » Tue Dec 19, 2017 12:46 am

well shit. I was skeptical of the painted IM but that looks freaking fantastic!

Pops did good work on the stove adapter too

by **Afterthought** » Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:11 pm

Got the stove installed , was a pain . Had to jack up the piping . But now I have a little heat. Put in a T which will be where the waste oil heater ties in . But I need to get a damper for it .

Shop is getting to a point where I can’t stand the mess anymore so I started cleaning .
Got the workbench cleaned off

Tomorrow , organize all these parts and find a spot for them.

One of the next things I need to find , a plug for the speed sensor hole . Anyone got a line on one of those ? I don’t even know if it exists

by **PRY4SNO** » Tue Dec 19, 2017 9:43 pm

I hear a speed sensor works fantastic! Maybe a vendor... like Mike Hood @ Ringer Racing could give you the dimensions and thread pitch if necessary.

Seriously though, great work moving forward. Fabrication can be an exercise in equal parts cursing and patience divided by eureka moments.

And LOL at freezing while working in +2C weather.

by **Afterthought** » Tue Dec 19, 2017 9:55 pm

PRY4SNO wrote:I hear a speed sensor works fantastic! Maybe a vendor... like Mike Hood @ Ringer Racing could give you the dimensions and thread pitch if necessary.

Seriously though, great work moving forward. Fabrication can be an exercise in equal parts cursing and patience divided by eureka moments.

And LOL at freezing while working in +2C weather.

Yeah my weather is is not as bad as yours, I shoudn't complain... But the heater will most likely get the shop up to 45-50 F if I get it burning good for a while so I can handle that. I just hate not being able to feel my hands.

I guess I could go one of two ways, wither make a small taper on the lathe and put in a small recess for an O-ring , or just just get the sensor and pop it in there. I just wouldn't know what to do with the sensor output, but maybe it could come in handy some time down the road. It's about $150 which isn't too bad. But if I add up all the "it's just $150" in this car it's going to be astronomical.

by **Afterthought** » Tue Dec 19, 2017 10:47 pm

Working on my list of things that need to be done yet
Punch List
*reinstall intake manifold
*install fuel rail and tighten fittings
*install 044 Fuel Pump
* Interior Wiring terminations for VEMS custom harness
(any wiring cleanup/inspection?)
*Install Oil Cooler (find spot?)
*Custom oil cooler lines AN -8
*Bleed brakes and clutch
*drain and fill trans fluid (fluid type?)
*connect steering rack
*connect/adjust trans linkage
*install shifter
*Install steering wheel
*install interior
*reinstall exhaust
*order and install hood latches
*make threaded adjusters for Alternator and PS pump
*New PS lines to rack
*lengthen (or find better fit) throttle cable
*Adjust tie rods to "close"
*Start car, road test
*4 wheel alignment
*tune

by **PRY4SNO** » Wed Dec 20, 2017 9:26 pm

I was mostly joshing you about the weather... it's all relative, and you have to contend with (up to) 100% humidity which is basically unheard of around here. Still, gloves can be... handy. I'm a big fan of HyFlex gloves made by Ansell -- mostly because they're fr... donated by my workplace -- or some simple woven cotton liners with latex gloves over top. You'd be surprised how much heat you can retain with either option, while maintaining dexterity. As always, the key to keeping cozy in the cold is warm feet and hands.

As for your trans fluid options, seems like lately the tide has shifted from Motylgear 75w90 toward Fuchs Titan Race SYNCHRO 75w-90. I'd wager either is a fine option especially as you're not encountering sustained bouts of -40 in your area.

Have you considered going with the higher zinc content PSF found in Redline vs. OEM?

by **Afterthought** » Sat Dec 23, 2017 9:16 pm

So the PS pump bracket works nice. Now to deal with the lines. I could do full custom from rack to pump but I think it might be better to use a barbed fitting on the low pressure bigger line and a new line for the high pressure side if I can find out what these fittings are . So sort of metric bubble or something ?

Line is about 12” short

Good clearance for the rad

I guess before I get too far ahead of myself I have to plan out where the power steering reservoir is actually going to go .
I can locate it by the coolant reservoir , or put it where the catch can is/was on the firewall.
If I go at the firewall one of the stock PS lines will Work and only the high pressure requires re-work. But I have to redo all the AN -12 breather lines .

Will look at it next few days .
The other thing I need to start looking at is where I can fit the oil cooler . So I’ll put in the alternator and see , I was thinking that the stock URQ intercooler location would be best as far as short runs of lines.
Both fittings are -8 and can either be on top or on bottom.

by **Afterthought** » Mon Dec 25, 2017 10:44 am

My plan here, starting with the power steering.
I'd like to figure out what the fittings for this high pressure hose are, so that I can leave the metal line at the rack and just make a new line. Does anyone know what type of fittings these are?
See pic below, I need to remake hose No. "31" at a custom length.
I know the banjo is an 16MM just need to check thread pitch and see if it has any sort of a check valve in it or if it is just a banjo.

Hints welcome other wise I will have it remade one way or another next week.

by **Afterthought** » Tue Dec 26, 2017 9:34 pm

Couple things done today but not much .
After multiple trips.... Will verify , test fit tomorrow... I May have found the fitting that will allow me to put a custom line in for power steering . This fitting *should* screw on to the metal line with a male flare coming out of the rack , and adapt to JIC (AN) . At that point any hose store can make me a custom hose length .

We’ll see tomorrow.
The store has a couple stages of hoses they can use . One is good to around 1000 PSI the other is 3,000. Pump says 75 Bar on it which is close to 1100 psi - I’m surprised it’s that high .

Catch can installed .

Oil
Cooler fittings. M18x1.5 to AN -8

Potential oil cooler location ? It’s either here or in front of the rad, bottom side . But I was hoping to have shorter lines that that. With a simple heat shield from the header this spot may work .

Speed sensor plug, and a little machined sumbitch to hold it down

This is the only
Power steering reservoir I could find so I cleaned and flushed it and found a spot for it . We’ll see if it works well here as other things get added to the bay

by **Driggs** » Wed Dec 27, 2017 2:29 pm

Is the reservoir going to be higher than the ps pump? i think it needs to be for purposes of air trapping?

by **Afterthought** » Thu Dec 28, 2017 9:53 am

Driggs wrote:Is the reservoir going to be higher than the ps pump? i think it needs to be for purposes of air trapping?

It is yeah, I have the pump down pretty low at this point . I’m pretty much set on pump location but the reservoir could move too.
Had to rework the bracket again because the belt line was off a tad and the belt was so close to the bracket .

Welded on a boss for my tensioner to bolt to.

by **alxdgr8** » Thu Dec 28, 2017 5:06 pm

Saw Hayden using this tool way back, been meaning to get one. Seems like you could use one too!

Dayco:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac- ... I5EALw_wcB
Gates:
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91006-Serp ... B000WYFI1A

by **Afterthought** » Thu Dec 28, 2017 9:11 pm

Finally ready to throw a belt on the PS pump and Alternator . Linkages done .

Custom power steering line is finished .

Just need to finish one small adapter that I think will have to be made in the lathe . Need to make a conversion from this (unknown?) fitting at the rack to JIC

Turbo blanket

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

by **alxdgr8** » Sat Dec 30, 2017 5:18 pm

You should be able to use a metric male concave seat (inverted flare) adapter. Not sure of the size of that one, but here's an example of M14x1.5 to -8AN:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... RecID=4208

by **Afterthought** » Sat Dec 30, 2017 8:32 pm

Yeah that’s the last piece I need to figure out alex . Obviously no one at any local stores knows what that fitting is. I was looking at trying to match the angle and make a custom one on the lathe... but I’ll try this first .
I have the pump end sorted now .

So hopefully the concave piece will Work for the rack connection. The proper size for this application is M16x1.5.
This is a metric adapter M16x1.5 threads fitted in but without a seat in it .

by **Afterthought** » Sat Dec 30, 2017 8:43 pm

Got some other little things done a couple of which I’m quite excited about.
Have some stainless coming up so I’m
Working on a set up to back purge and I’m looking forward to trying it.

New tool.

Turbo intake piece design is about complete , but next is to make it one piece .

Notches machined our for the bolts

And a little Venturi in the inside . Need to finish polishing

by **alxdgr8** » Sun Dec 31, 2017 3:18 am

Nice toys! Grizzly is up in Bellingham aren't they?
That intake adapter looks awesome

by **alxdgr8** » Sun Dec 31, 2017 3:59 am

The less elegant solution

00M0M_M8gJ3PJRUs_1200x900 by Vex Art, on Flickr

by **Afterthought** » Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:29 am

Yeah that is definitely quicker. Whos is that'?
I saw that someone had done that, Colin I think , and I was thinking damn there is a way faster way to do this.
But I downloaded fusion and I'm trying to learn the software so I can draw up and make things I need myself.

I was also curious on these indy turbos if it was possible to cut and weld a standard V-band flange on the exhaust side but I don't know enough about metallurgy or welding to take it on. So my manifold now is Indy turbo specific. If I can draw up or find a place to get a 20VT exhaust flange in stainless I'd like to start working on a design for a new manifold, as a spare or pre-emptively for my other car.

Oh and yes, grizzly is here in Bellingham . Reviews an this saw are great but some stuff I think is hit or miss. It's mostly woodworking tools there it seems like.

by **Afterthought** » Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:44 am

so.... Does anyone know. What's the longest throttle cable Audi made for a B2 car. The cable that came with my manifold is made to fit a C4. I need essentially a really short body but a really long cable. I may have to look at some pics of intake manifold and TB placement in the stock cars I guess. 1983 Coupe is probably actually not far off.

by **alxdgr8** » Sun Dec 31, 2017 6:56 pm

Afterthought wrote:Yeah that is definitely quicker. Whos is that'?
I saw that someone had done that, Colin I think , and I was thinking damn there is a way faster way to do this.
But I downloaded fusion and I'm trying to learn the software so I can draw up and make things I need myself.

I was also curious on these indy turbos if it was possible to cut and weld a standard V-band flange on the exhaust side but I don't know enough about metallurgy or welding to take it on. So my manifold now is Indy turbo specific. If I can draw up or find a place to get a 20VT exhaust flange in stainless I'd like to start working on a design for a new manifold, as a spare or pre-emptively for my other car.

Oh and yes, grizzly is here in Bellingham . Reviews an this saw are great but some stuff I think is hit or miss. It's mostly woodworking tools there it seems like.

That's Josh Hein's UrS4 in Colorado with the Indy turbo.