91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby ringbearer » Thu Jan 28, 2016 3:03 pm

Welcome!

Great build, glad to see it here. I'd really make sure to get the suspension portion dialed before you go big power. Upgraded bushings and coilovers with stiff springs and good shocks will transform the car. I just did my suspension in my UrS4 and wish I'd done it years ago. It's in my project thread if you want to look. There should be a guide for a QA1 rear coilover out soon, a few people are using it now. 2B may sell you some separate parts if you DIY the front coilovers.

These are good upgraded bushings.
https://www.akmotorsport.net/product-ca ... di/200-c3/

Good luck!
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Thu Jan 28, 2016 3:14 pm

OK, here is my quick take on the situation.

gregplatt wrote:Needed Car Upgrades
    Body
Second windows upgrade to lexan?
The hood is very heavy, possibly build a carbon fiber or fiberglass hood, possibly even all the body panels:
Other ideas???
    Fix----
-I've been looking online at a company in england that makes a carbon fiber kit, it includes everything to make the mold and build the part, sets up at room temperature, looks amazing, I'll find the url

There are definitely lots of opportunities for weight loss here. If you don't care too much about aesthetics, you can make your own panels from glass or CF. CF isn't going to gain you any more in weight savings than CF unless it is used in a structural part. For parts which are readily available though, you will probably spend less just buying them. Making molds is very expensive, especially if your time is valuable.

    Chassis/Suspension
The handling is horrible, we couldn't make any changes to the suspension due to the rules. The front is still UFO setup. The camber needs fixed badly, and we need to drop the car by literally 6 to 10 inches, no joke it looks like it's lifted, I think we took out well over 1000 pounds. Possibly upgrade the bushings etc...
    Fix---
-2bennet has a full suspension setup http://www.2bennett.com/body_5000_200_suspension.html, pretty expensive at $2k but you get adjustable shocks front and rear, coilovers and the really nice camber plates.
I've also looked at the DIY write ups on the suspension but I'm not sure if it would be much cheaper, or more reliable??

The 2bennett kit is not designed for racing use, not at the $2k price at least. I'm sure they are capable of shortening the strut housings and getting you Koni race struts to fit, but it's going to cost you FAR more than $2k for them to do that. Their camber plates are nice enough. Take a look at the V8 DTM car's suspension setup in the front for ideas here. They run the most camber and castor possible in the front with fixed plates configured as such.

You might consider playing with various sway bars front and back. The V8 DTM cars also used rather large swaybars up front contrary to popular belief that front sways will cause a car to understeer more... it depends on too many other factors to always say that. So try a few things out there.

Back to the coilovers... I think you are going to have to go the DIY route. You will want to shorten the strut housings by at least 1.5" to be at a height appropriate to what you want to do and still retain some suspension travel. What you do with the rest of the suspension components to retain geometry is going to be up to you and where the car ends up. Anyway, DO NOT attempt to run Koni or Bilstein sport struts on this car. You will probably want to be running 600-700+ lb/in springs and those struts will blow out in VERY quick order with those spring rates. In the front end, you will either need to look into re-valved and shortened regular Koni/Bilsteins or Koni racing struts. The other option would be external reservoir struts, but that might be better for a later iteration. Look at what Josh and Nick S. did recently for double adjustable rear coilovers.






    Brakes
Right now we really like the 17z's up front with the C230 disks, cheap parts, we only pay $110 per caliper rebuilt and $50 for the drilled rotors. Only problem is the pads are really expensive, hawks are $250 per... Thinking about changing to Wilwoods, they have cheap racing pads, even though the setup is more. I'm not sure if I need more in the rear, seems to be fine stock, the car is so heavy in the front.
Need to add a bias valve though.
Need to change to wheel studs instead of bolts, bolts are the worst during a pitstop, I saw a conversion kit somewhere.

I think this is a good idea (changing out to the Wilwoods). You'll make up for it quickly I think.



    Wheels/Tires
We are running an old set of speed lines, they are 17x8". They have an odd drop step in the wheel though and I think that they are close to a 16" wheel on the inside, we really had to grind down the 17z's!
We run a 180 tread rating tire, so we have a few different sets that we like, that's pretty easy.
We need to find one more set of lightweight wheels, perferebly 9 or 10" wide, we run 255's right now.

You should be able to run 275s on a 9-10"wheel at all four corners with the kind of camber you will want to be running up front. Rear is no problem to run at least that much.


    Engine
This is the big one, I believe our timing belt skipped last year and crunched some valves. We race street tracks, usually around 2 miles in length. We need good reliable power, not crazy drag power, more revs the better. we are on a budget so we can't get to exotic.
    Fix---
Head: Thinking stock valves, springs etc. Repair them and surface the head
Block: Try and get by with what we have, it's a 200K mile stock short block
Exhaust: Upgrade the manifold, 3" downpipe, right now it's a stock down pipe with 3" exhaust out the back now muffler. Maybe do a side pipe out the b pillar passanger side.
Turbo: Thinking Garret BB possibly GT 3071 or GT30r not sure.
Wastegate: maybe Tial drop in
Ignition: Deffinetly coilovers or ls2 coils
Intake: one of the cool redisigned jobs for the 3b??
ECU: Deffinelty VEMS I think, V3 harness start from scratch
Intercooler: Not sure, craigslist special, custom piping with v bands?? Really like v bands for race repairs, makes it much easier

I would advocate for the inconel exhaust valves too. They are cheap insurance against a valve dropping.

I would throw rods in that short block also. It is cheap enough and will ensure that your 450 hp goal is achieved safely at the track. It's one thing to make that power on the street, but another to do it on the track where conditions are far less than ideal.

Exhaust-wise, you won't need anything more than 3" especially if you aren't running a muffler. An RS2 evo manifold would probably be OK, but it never hurts to have a nice tubular manifold from Hank. You can't go wrong either way. Don't try to run a side exit exhaust under the car. It will scrape things, especially when at the kind of ride height you are talking about. It'd be kinda cool to run it inside the car and out the side like the trans am cars did! You could always do a hood exit too if you run out of money! lol

Turbo - 3071 size will do well for you in terms of power output. I'd definitely go with what will be the most responsive (like the equivalently-sized EFR), but I doubt if it is cheaper than a regular gt3071! Just make sure to run the thing in it's efficiency range if you get an EFR. Step out of that by much, and it will go kabloom.

Wastegate - you really shouldn't need an upgrade here, but if you do, you might as well get a water-cooled one from Tial. There is no more reliable wastegate than a Tial.

Ignition - Yes, coils. I'd probably go with coil over plug like the R8/2.0tfsi coils. They'll save weight, are reliable, quick to change out, and have great output. They are being used on multiple 800 whp+ setups including my own (in the future).

Intake - not necessary at these power levels, but doesn't hurt...

Definitely go with VEMS for ECU. It will do everything you need and more.

Intercooler - the biggest and most efficient intercooler you can fit within reason in a 200 20v is this one, the Treadstone TRV25.

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=86217&cat_key=63&prodname=TRV25+Series+Intercooler++1000HP

I fit it with same side end tanks. It probably wouldn't fit with opposite side end tanks unless you found a good way to route the pipe by cutting something unnecessary, etc. It will definitely fit with same side facing end tanks though. You can get cast 90 deg aluminum elbows to help with clearance coming out of it. It's that close... 90 deg silicone couplers probably wont fit without getting creative somehow.

On that subject, I would highly recommend you get some VanJen clamps. They will allow for more flex than v-bands do, they are arguably easier to put on and take off than v-bands (if you have alignment issues), and make a nice and reliable seal. Plus they look sweet :)





    Gearbox/Clutch
Gearbox is making metal and leaking badly at the input shaft seal. Would love to put a dsg in this!!! but way to hard I think. Probably just pull it and rebuild, it's the 5 speed. We spend most of our time in 2nd and 3rd.
    Fix---
Clutch masters said they had an aluminum flywheel and custom cluth setup, seemed the cheapest good route. Right now we have a kevlar cluth on the stock flyweel and pressure plate.

I'd see if you can make the 016 work for you. It has much better ratios than the 01E does, and is arguably more reliable than an 01E. They have synchro issues. 016's only start to have issues when you launch them hard repeatedly and/or make about 450 torque at the wheels. Just something to think about.

    Fuel System
Right now it's the stock tank and pump, fuel regulator etc...

    Fix---
Would love a Fuel safe setup, dry break, dual 44 pumps and regulator, not sure if it makes sense to spend money in this area yet.

Stock pump should be sufficient, but it wouldn't hurt to have a surge tank or something to baffle the fuel. Twin pumps is not really a good thing for reliability. The reason? If one pump goes bad, you have a lean condition that will probably cause the engine to lean out, but not enough to stop the engine which would then lead to a total meltdown. A single pump going out (if it fails suddenly rather than slowly dies) will cause the engine to just shut off. Nothing will be harmed.

The dry break fittings are awesome though :)


    Interior/Driver

    Fix---
Would love to switch to wilwood pedal box on a slider, instead of the seat on a slider. That way the seat could be pushed back further helping with the front weight issue.
Need to ditch the factory cluster, it's to hacked up. I've been looking at the AIM system , even the GT Wheel http://www.aim-sportline.com/eng/products-car/gt-steering-wheel/index.htm or the MXL dash. Also the Dash2Pro https://www.race-technology.com/gb/racing/products/display-products/dash2-pro. Both work with the vems inputs, the wheel would be pretty trick.

Nothing to comment on here

    Setup
    Fix---
Need to get this car to handle better, need to lower it, camber around 2 degrees or so, balance it better, not sure???

See suspension section above for ideas there. Corner balancing and having the struts valved accordingly is also helpful.

    Aero
Need some cool aero items, doesn't make that much of a difference I don't think, but looks cool
    Fix---
Front lip, rear wing, diffuser, who knows. Possibly try and make a completly new bumper, the factory one looks horrible without the chrome trim


::We have races coming up soon so I'm in high speed mode, any ideas are greatly appreciated, no mater how crazy, I even dream about running a compound diesel style dual turbo system, maybe next year. I'll choose what we do by the concensus of whoever chimes in.
Thanks in advance... I'll include lots of pictures and videos

That'd be cool! I'm all for a compound setup. Also, look into quick spool valves. A lot of times the engine can't even swallow enough air to take advantage of turbos like the smaller EFRs on a quick spool valve, but the boost can be down-regulated to still provide a lot of benefit from it. I honestly think that'd be all you'd need if you had someone who knows how to set it up properly. It isn't the easiest, but it is certainly doable.

Looking forward to seeing where this goes.

-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Thu Jan 28, 2016 3:18 pm

Also, I did not see anything mentioned about oiling. Are you running a baffle of any sort? This would be a good application for dry sump at some point.
-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby gregplatt » Thu Jan 28, 2016 4:57 pm

Chris, wow thanks for your answers and the time it took, really appreciate it. I'll digest this. The intercooler is perfect, thanks for the part number. I'll upgrade the the oil system in the future, no baffle right now, was thinking about an acusump, but haven't worried about it to much. I need to look into the DIY suspension threads a little more, time is worth quite a bit so lately i've become a bolt on type of guy :foff: .
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby gregplatt » Thu Jan 28, 2016 5:17 pm

I'm configuring the vems to order it right now. Does anyone know what the 1 wire interface option is about? Also 2 knock sensors vs 1 I would think, single EGT, 400kpa, hall for the primary and secondary trigger I'd assume if I use the distributer, let me know if I'm wrong. Also I'm going to order the universal vems harness unless there is a better option. I'll do the coilovers, seems cheaper and more compact, easy to change as you said.
The only two accessories on the engine right now are the alternator and the pump for the brakes and power steering. We tend to lose hydraulic fluid out of the reservoir, it boils and just starts puking, I think it's just not designed to run at high RPM's for extended periods. We use high end high temp fluid. I was thinking about mounting an electric pump on the frame rail next to the bomb, one out of a mazda http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-09-Mazda-3-06-10-5-Electric-Power-Steering-Pump-Motor-Assembly-Reservoir-W-/321992291198?fits=Make%3AMazda%7CModel%3A3, then it could just be switched on and run a more consistent speed. Plus it would free up some space on the side of the engine.
Also the alternator tends to throw belts, on the trans-am car they mounted the alternator in the rear cabin on the drive shaft, might be more work than it's worth though.
tadiff.jpg
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby gregplatt » Thu Jan 28, 2016 6:10 pm

Just ordered a Vems V3 with the twin shield harness, I'll add that to the first post. Here is the spec I ordered, should be close I think
1 x v3TwinShieldHarness (T)
custom length unspecified
extra TESA tape yes
injectors I6
with_connector LSU4.9connector
with_relays yes
1 x ECU VEMS V3 (v3.6)
1-wire interface no
EGT input 1
ETC BridgeOutput_Interface 0
Flyback HighZ-only 30V flyback
Hi-side PFET outputs 0
ignition driver 8
Knock input channels 2
LCD connection yes
MAP connection 400kPa (5/3mm pneumatic)
mounting-style flanged case
primary_trigger EC36/27 VR
secondary_trigger auditrigger w/camHALLinverter
Service slow
Special requests no
withSDcard no
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby chaloux » Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:10 pm

You talked to Marc at EFIexpress right?
Matt

01 Allroad 6speed - RS4 clutch, catless downpipes, stuklr tune
04 Jetta TDI - DC stage I clutch/14lb fw
DEATH by rust - 96 Audi A6 Avant 2.5l TDI
GONE :( 87 4ktq - 4 FOX SNAKES
DEAD :( - 1996 S6 mit TDI
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:15 pm

I'm guessing you didn't order from Marc and EFIexpress.

In my opinion, you'd be better off canceling the order you just made and ordering it through him. You won't get better service than through Marc and he can make sure it's set up right for a 3b car. No guesswork involved.
-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:16 pm

Lol Matt...
-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby gregplatt » Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:23 pm

I didn't order from efiexpress, direct from vems in Europe. Didn't realize there was another option. I'll take a look
--ok I took a look, I'll cancel my order especially if he is willing to provide support. I didn't see any harness options on his site, I'll have to call him. Thanks again for the heads up
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:46 pm

You won't regret it. Marc might, but you definitely won't

:lol:
-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby gregplatt » Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:03 pm

loxxrider wrote:You won't regret it. Marc might, but you definitely won't

:lol:


He probably will, I just tried to call but they are closed. I'm wondering what he has for harnesses.
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:23 pm

Yeah, it's a bit late here on the east coast. He can make you any harness you need and has all of the knowledge needed to do it with your engine /chassis/ecu combination. He can also get you a plug and play ecu if you want. Thats your answer :)
-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby Marc » Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:03 pm

Hi,

we have several harness options. the vems "80%" harnesses are not a bad start but still require some work to complete. I have them in stock as well as the ecus. we're open 9-5 M-F EST, if you leave a message after hours I'll return call. We get lots of super annoying robo calls so no voicemail = no call back.

happy to help you out with your project and answer any questions you may have.
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Express

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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:22 pm

Customer service at its finest ^^^ :)
-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
User avatar
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Posts: 6642
Joined: Feb 27, 2013
Location: Jupiter, FL / Somewhere, PA

Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby gregplatt » Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:30 pm

Marc wrote:Hi,

we have several harness options. the vems "80%" harnesses are not a bad start but still require some work to complete. I have them in stock as well as the ecus. we're open 9-5 M-F EST, if you leave a message after hours I'll return call. We get lots of super annoying robo calls so no voicemail = no call back.

happy to help you out with your project and answer any questions you may have.


Marc,
thanks, great that you jumped in. Tell me what I need, i'm thinking vems+harness+coil over setup. I think that you can see what I'm up to so I'll trust you with what I need to make it run. I saw the rear main seal with the sensor built in on your website, is this the way to go over the distributor? I'll call you tomorrow and make an order.
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby gregplatt » Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:38 pm

Taking a look at the Borg Warner turbos vs the Garret turbos. Borg Warner is much cheaper or at least I've found some deals. Does anyone have experience with the BorgWarner AirWerks line, particularly the S200sx products. Nearly half the price as a Garret BB of similar specs, built for racing. They are not water cooled??? only oil feed lines. Looks like a good option to save a little and put that money towards something else.
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby gregplatt » Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:50 pm

Chris,
Do you think that the Treadstone TRV25 is a little to much for me. It's rated at 1000hp and is pretty big, the bumper would block most of it. What about this one http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68302&cat_key=63&prodname=TR82+Intercooler+500HP would fit above the cross member and in between the lights rated at 500hp. Or something simular???

Or the baby brother to the TRV25 http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=86213&cat_key=63&prodname=TRV125+Series++Intercooler++500HP
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby 2.5TYPE44 » Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:27 pm

It's great to see another Type 44 on here. I'm looking forward to hearing your feedback as you make changes on your set up.
I love the clean white interior and your color scheme on the outside.
Keep us posted on a hood in carbon fiber if you go that route. Ide be interested in one especially if it has heat extractors :D I thought about doing a compound turbo set up myself, but I promise a quick spool valve and an EFR will leave you completely satisfied.
Have you thought about removing the trunk deck lid?
How much does the car weigh now?
How much camber do you run?
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby themagellan » Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:34 pm

My new favorite thread. The inside of that car looks fantastic! Can't wait to watch its evolution. Lots of good info in this thread!
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Fri Jan 29, 2016 6:46 am

gregplatt wrote:
Marc wrote:Hi,

we have several harness options. the vems "80%" harnesses are not a bad start but still require some work to complete. I have them in stock as well as the ecus. we're open 9-5 M-F EST, if you leave a message after hours I'll return call. We get lots of super annoying robo calls so no voicemail = no call back.

happy to help you out with your project and answer any questions you may have.


Marc,
thanks, great that you jumped in. Tell me what I need, i'm thinking vems+harness+coil over setup. I think that you can see what I'm up to so I'll trust you with what I need to make it run. I saw the rear main seal with the sensor built in on your website, is this the way to go over the distributor? I'll call you tomorrow and make an order.


My opinion is that you might as well do the rear main seal trigger if you have the engine out. It will give a better signal I believe (which is why it is planned for use on my revver project), and you leave the distributor hall sensor in the head in case you need a backup during a race!


gregplatt wrote:Taking a look at the Borg Warner turbos vs the Garret turbos. Borg Warner is much cheaper or at least I've found some deals. Does anyone have experience with the BorgWarner AirWerks line, particularly the S200sx products. Nearly half the price as a Garret BB of similar specs, built for racing. They are not water cooled??? only oil feed lines. Looks like a good option to save a little and put that money towards something else.


Borg Warner makes great, robust turbos. However, the ones you are looking at are the journal bearing versions (as opposed to ball bearing). That's why they are so cheap and also why they are not water cooled. They will not be as responsive as a comparably-sized ball bearing turbo. Their EFR line however, is the most responsive line of turbocharges on the market when it comes to transient response. That is what you ultimately want, especially if integrated with their upcoming turbine housings with integrated "quick spool" valves.



gregplatt wrote:Chris,
Do you think that the Treadstone TRV25 is a little to much for me. It's rated at 1000hp and is pretty big, the bumper would block most of it. What about this one http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68302&cat_key=63&prodname=TR82+Intercooler+500HP would fit above the cross member and in between the lights rated at 500hp. Or something simular???

Or the baby brother to the TRV25 http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=86213&cat_key=63&prodname=TRV125+Series++Intercooler++500HP


It might be a little overkill, but the only thing you will sacrifice is a little bit of transient response time (more volume to fill). Whether you go for the bigger or smaller one is up to you. I just wanted to let you know what will fit. HOWEVER, one thing I would like to inform you of is that vertical flow intercoolers will always be more efficient than horizontal flow intercoolers. The reason is that (by thermodynamics) most of the heat extraction is done in the first few inches of the air's path through the intercooler core. After that, the amount of heat extraction drops off exponentially. Therefore, more, shorter rows are better than fewer, longer rows of fins. That is exactly the reason I chose to try to fit the TRV25 as opposed to any other intercooler with similar flow ratings.

As far as the intercooler being blocked, some well-placed ducting will take care of that. Also, if you plan to make a new bumper as you mentioned, that should be a non-issue.

By the way, the TRV25 does fit with the cross-member in place (but flipped over and one little bracket cut off if I recall correctly) and in-between the headlights. Some of the core does sit below the grille, but again, ducting will take care of that. The same can be said about the smaller version. You will gain some "spool" time by using the smaller core, but it may not be very noticeable. I can't say for sure. Heat extraction will of course be compromised however.

Now, you have plenty of other options for cooling charge air, but I think a really solid air-to-air setup is best for an endurance car like yours, especially when trying to be mindful of weight as opposed to an effective water-to-air setup with heat exchanger, pumps, etc.
-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Fri Jan 29, 2016 6:49 am

I wish I had a picture of the fitment with my bumper off, but here it is with everything installed. A good portion of the core is blocked for sure, but again, ducting!

Image
-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby Marc » Fri Jan 29, 2016 7:57 am

loxxrider wrote:
gregplatt wrote:
Marc wrote:Hi,

we have several harness options. the vems "80%" harnesses are not a bad start but still require some work to complete. I have them in stock as well as the ecus. we're open 9-5 M-F EST, if you leave a message after hours I'll return call. We get lots of super annoying robo calls so no voicemail = no call back.

happy to help you out with your project and answer any questions you may have.


Marc,
thanks, great that you jumped in. Tell me what I need, i'm thinking vems+harness+coil over setup. I think that you can see what I'm up to so I'll trust you with what I need to make it run. I saw the rear main seal with the sensor built in on your website, is this the way to go over the distributor? I'll call you tomorrow and make an order.


My opinion is that you might as well do the rear main seal trigger if you have the engine out. It will give a better signal I believe (which is why it is planned for use on my revver project), and you leave the distributor hall sensor in the head in case you need a backup during a race!


he would still need the distributor even with the 60-2 rear main for cam sync. the vems doesn't support 5 cylinder wasted spark because there are not enough phase entries to do it in the firmware (since each phase is 72 degrees apart with no overlap).

I'll talk about all this on the phone (or via email if you prefer to keep record of it) so you can make an informed choice on what you want to do.
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Express

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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Fri Jan 29, 2016 8:02 am

Ah Ok, sorry about that Yeah I was thinking it was replacing the head hall sensor, but obviously that isn't possible since the rear main sensor is measuring the crank. Duh. It was too early for me to be thinking clearly haha. And to think they pay me to do work that early!

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-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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Re: 91 200 20v Race Car Portland OR

Postby loxxrider » Fri Jan 29, 2016 8:03 am

It could be a backup for the two vr sensors on the flywheel though, yes?

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-Chris

'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project
'91 Audi 200 20v Avant
'01 Anthracite M5
'90 M3
'85 Euro 635csi
'12 X3
E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
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loxxrider
 
Posts: 6642
Joined: Feb 27, 2013
Location: Jupiter, FL / Somewhere, PA

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