Bill's 200 20v, back on 4 wheels

[audios]

I was fortunate to be able to pick this car up from Casey for a good price. He did a great job and I hope to continue to maintain his car and help refine it a bit as I am able.

Here is Casey's thread: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=141

First thing on my list was to help with radiator cooling a bit, thus enter some shop-vac attachments with hoses.



I would like to find something that will turn these 90 and open them up so if stationary with the fan on they could pull air from the front of the car rather than the engine bay. Ideally a 2.5" to 5" very sharp 90 would be ideal but i haven't really done any research on this yet....


I also will be trying to add some brake ducting of some sort. The rotors were warped and i want to avoid doing this in the future, although I am not planning on driving this car hard, I have never done this before and would like to try to see how it comes out. I know the rotors are at the end of their life, i will try to get through this summer with them and then pick up a new set from coleman for the next summer.
here are the rotors getting turned:


thinking about these from a few minutes of research:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003C0 ... PDKIKX0DER



Now to the elephant(s) in the room that i have not addressed yet. After
reading through some threads and a bit of research I am pretty convinced that the rings are probably a little weak, but i think i will be able to live with it for a while. A friend of mine suggested switching to dino oil of a heavier weight (20-50) to help reduce the blow by. He had a TTV8 american muscle and when he tried switching to synth oil he had tons of blow by and when he switched back it got better. I am not thinking this will completely cure the problem but i think it may help a bit. If anyone knows any reason not to please LMK.

The other issue was with the starter, it did act up on me a couple times, but honestly it was not all that bad. Since Casey said he had the starter rebuilt i am leaning tward the ignition switch. I may before the car is on the road again wire a push button start in and see if it helps. If not I will be looking into it more when I am actually using the car again.

[chaloux]

What I would do is... When motivated, pull the engine out, remove head and rotating assembly, assess and most likely hone, new rings, and do rods since it's apart (perhaps rod bearings).

Assemble and address the catch can by adding a drain (ccv already comes off the valve cover right?). If you don't want to tear down the engine anytime soon, do the drain so you don't have to empty the can so often.

After this you're basically covered engine-wise for a while.

Brakes... Ducting sure. Fun project. Not sure it will help the "warping" but go for it.

[WOMBAT]

What I would do is... When motivated, pull the engine out, remove head and rotating assembly, assess and most likely hone, new rings, and do rods since it's apart (perhaps rod bearings).

Assemble and address the catch can by adding a drain (ccv already comes off the valve cover right?). If you don't want to tear down the engine anytime soon, do the drain so you don't have to empty the can so often.

After this you're basically covered engine-wise for a while.

Brakes... Ducting sure. Fun project. Not sure it will help the "warping" but go for it.

It has SCAT rods yo! Mains and rod bearings are 11k old with ARP hardware (part of the initial build)

Glad to see a thread on here!

I can continue to live vicariously through you

[WOMBAT]

What I would do is... When motivated, pull the engine out, remove head and rotating assembly, assess and most likely hone, new rings, and do rods since it's apart (perhaps rod bearings).

Assemble and address the catch can by adding a drain (ccv already comes off the valve cover right?). If you don't want to tear down the engine anytime soon, do the drain so you don't have to empty the can so often.

After this you're basically covered engine-wise for a while.

Brakes... Ducting sure. Fun project. Not sure it will help the "warping" but go for it.

It has SCAT rods yo! Mains (coated 034) and rod bearings are 11k old with ARP hardware (part of the initial build)

Glad to see a thread on here!

I can continue to live vicariously through you

[WOMBAT]

Crap... guess i should change my avatar.... to the Element :(

[chaloux]

Crap... guess i should change my avatar.... to the Element :(

Haaaaa... Definitely. Balla life.

Didn't know it had rods. Damn! Would be a quick and cheap teardown then. Give'r!

[WOMBAT]

multi-layer CR dropping HG too, please be aware so as not to reassemble and blow up 8)

[audios]

Hey Casey, Glad to see you found this thread. Wasn't sure you would be on here much looking for support for the element tuning i would assume the CR lowering HG's are not reuseable, although I hope to not have to tear down the motor for a couple more seasons at least. Ivan was fairly convinced i would lower the oil consumption by switching to dino 20-50. I didnt get on it that much and thus it didnt put to much into the catch can. Although i have heard good things about this OEM BMW CCV:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw ... 151705237/
and am thinking of picking one up.....

[WOMBAT]

I'm subscribed thicker oil should slow things down.

[themagellan]

conventional oil Definitely helps

[audios]

i dont get to check this that much, but im always glad to see that there seem to me quite a few 200 20v projects. Things have been going pretty well, built a catch can setup (ill take a photo tomorrow) after blowing the doors off of an unsuspecting harley on the highway that wanted to go ( i shouldnt have wasted my time, harleys are slow) and COVERING the engine bay with oil. I now have it discharging under the car so it should have a good oil undercoating should i have to drive it in the winter.....

[88a5tq]

Lol I gotta see these pics

[audios]

are the photos not showing up?
today i did a quick pull on the highway when i heard a strange sound, it was as i suspected a hose popped off. the only one that wasnt a bolt type hose clamp. The system does keep the oil out of the engine bay but i hope i can address the ring issue this coming winter, as there was a bunch of oil on the lower bumper where the hose dumps.....

[audios]

Started the re-ring,new transmission, PS pump seal kit install project today. got most of the front end of the car off, putting most bolts back where they came from. there was some oil in the IC, and just realizeing as i am typing this that i should have had it drain into a cup or something to be able to measure it, well im just going to hope that its not to much I hung the bumper up to one of the ceiling joists to make sure ppl dont break it kicking around the shop. I hope to have this front end work done by feb sometime as i hope to be able to move it down to my new house that i should be moving into around that time. then i can start the rear susupension/ quiet muffler work. The house is a bit of a fixer upper so would rather leave the smaller car project to try to tackle while transitioning to the new place.

Edit: forgot a few things i will try to do on the front end. new rotors and upper strut mounts....

[themagellan]

Hope to see it back together soon

[audios]

Photos from a few days ago. Hope to have some more time to put into it soon. Still have to pull the PS pump to put in new seals. will probably switch over to M1 fluid at that time. After the last snowstorm i am hoping i can keep using the bottom end that is in it as i would like to put the URS4 that is on backup motor duty on the road for next winter.

here is a quick list off the top of my head:
new rings (hopefully not new bottom end)
front subframe bushings
new used transmission
new tranny mounts
new seals for PS pump
drain catchcan back to sump (when i empty it now it looks like brand new oil)



round II ( at my future house after i move)

new quieter muffler ( engage sleeper mode )
install Apikol rear subframe bushings
install stock rear outer control arm bushings

[audios]

been a while, both intake and exhaust manifolds are off, starter is out and hope to get the motor out soon......

[loxxrider]

Keep it up. It'll be well worth it when its done.

[audios]

I am looking to add and auxiliary radiator between these two ports. Any reason I should not?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[pilihp2]

so an aux radiator between the turbo coolant inlet and turbo coolant outlet essentially?

No issue, just more complicated plumbing.

[audios]

Not really, I just have to find one that will fit behind the IC and tap into the plugged lines. It ran a bit hotter than I would like last summer and thus I want to add a tad more capacity:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[pilihp2]

I dont follow?

was the turbo not water cooled?

[audios]

The current turbo is oil cooled only


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[audios]

Does anyone have an opinion on this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/112125826936?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

[audios]

Head is ready to come off, here is #5


#4

#3

#2 looks like i need a valve guide?

#1


head ready to come off