TCombs UrS4, small exhaust leak, need part#

[mrdeye]

CVJ Axles remanufactures power steering racks. I believe they have one in stock. I was going to get it but I sold my S6. They pressure test them with air then with p/s fluid. They have been doing it for 31yrs. It might be around $350 + your core. Stevison Toyota West, over in Golden, Co is one of our biggest accounts. They stock our parts.

[TCombs]

I need some help. I know I have jumped around a lot asking different questions, I'm just trying to get a parts list together. But there are two things right now that need more attention then others.
First is my fan noise. I have a noise, almost like a bad belt and a roaring noise from the engine especially in first and second gear. I thought it was the belt tensioner bearing so I replaced that with a brand new bearing (Volvo). That didn't seem to help even though I was glad I replaced it because there was a ton of stuff inside. So next, I replaced the fan clutch bearing, both were posted earlier in this thread. Still the same noise. I think my next thing is to get the power steering pump replaced and change out the fan clutch. Would either of these things help with the noise I am experiencing?

Second, I need some brake help. I posted about this not to long ago and need some help finding some parts. I currently have 993 front brakes (big blacks, not the REDs/993 TT) They are just the standard Carrera 993 brakes. Finding pads wont be a problem, I just have to find 993 pads. The rotors are the item in question. 993 brakes have a big center sore, way bigger then Audi. The current rotors are a two piece crossed drilled rotor. I would like to stay with that design but I can find any rotors that work. I was doing some research but could quite find what I was looking for. I believe I can use D2 A8 rotors, but do I need the standard A8, A8L or S8 rotors. From what I could find they are all different. I would like to stick with a two piece but I can't find a two piece with the same hub bore as our Audi's. I think I can re-use my current hat but if I do I would like to find new hardware to go with it, if not get new hats depending on the cost.
I posted earlier and "vt10vt" had told me his experience and said to stick with 993 calipers. But I do have a set of 996 calipers. Would it be worth/easier to switch to the 996 calipers?


Any help would be greatly appreciate. I am still new to the UrS cars and need a bit of guidance.

[speedydtp247]

To save money from throwing on parts to chase a noise buy this as this will help pin point where the noise is coming from exactly.

[TCombs]

I finished up my timing belt. Took a lot longer then I wanted but it was nice just being able to do it at work and not have it in the garage or anything like that. Broke a bolt at one point, then broke the screw extractor off in the bolt. One of the techs at work was there and use a pencil grinder and was able to get it out and re tap the hole, so all is good.
I used a kit I bought off a guy on MG. Used a gates racing belt that was the correct length and tooth number. I got id of my A/C condenser bc it was cracked and leaking, freed up some space between the rad and the frontmount so I have some more air flow now which is nice, while I was in there I also replaced the fan clutch. The car should run a bit cooler now, mainly at a stand still which is what I wanted. The radiator was filthy so I sprayed that out and got it as clean as possible, which I also think helped out a bit. It was a learning experience for sure. I had the hardest time getting the crank bolt off, I ended up using a torque multiplier that our Porsche techs use to get the center locks off our GT3RS and 918 Spyder wheels.
No more belt noise which is great and the timing belt is done, which is good to know.
Brakes and new Billy sport struts/shocks have been ordered! More to come soon.
Obviously everyone knows to replace your timing belt, especially if you don't know when it was last done. Even if the P.O says it was done recently, unless you can find proof, replace it. I just spent the last week at work replacing the engine on a 2001 S4 Avant 2.7T . I will post pictures here soon! Cost the guy quite a bit!

[IslandRinger]

Nice work! I desperately need to get mine done. Hopefully in the next short while. Got my kit from EFI Express.

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[TCombs]

I ordered new Bilstein sport front and rear struts/shocks. I also found some of the KYB strut bearings that work well with our cars (info found on QW) but I was wondering what else I should do while I do the struts. Should I replace the strut mounts and bellows while I am in there? Any brand better then another for certain parts?

[IslandRinger]

I ordered new Bilstein sport front and rear struts/shocks. I also found some of the KYB strut bearings that work well with our cars (info found on QW) but I was wondering what else I should do while I do the struts. Should I replace the strut mounts and bellows while I am in there? Any brand better then another for certain parts?

Cheap insurance to do front strut mounts and bellows while you're at it. My rear mounts were in decent shape and cost a fortune for some reason so i opted to reuse the old. Check the condition of the bump stops as well. Mine were severely deteriorated.

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[TCombs]

I ordered new Bilstein sport front and rear struts/shocks. I also found some of the KYB strut bearings that work well with our cars (info found on QW) but I was wondering what else I should do while I do the struts. Should I replace the strut mounts and bellows while I am in there? Any brand better then another for certain parts?

Cheap insurance to do front strut mounts and bellows while you're at it. My rear mounts were in decent shape and cost a fortune for some reason so i opted to reuse the old. Check the condition of the bump stops as well. Mine were severely deteriorated.

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Is there any brand you would rec? I will check at work and see what OEM will cost, if they are even available.

[IslandRinger]

I believe I went with OEM replacements. I know the were other brands available but I went OEM for piece of mind and longevity. If not OEM, it was Febi I think. QuattroWorld forums does have discussions about the brands of strut mounts available. Don't recall if there were preferred brands. Worth looking into I suppose.

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[TCombs]

I believe I went with OEM replacements. I know the were other brands available but I went OEM for piece of mind and longevity. If not OEM, it was Febi I think. QuattroWorld forums does have discussions about the brands of strut mounts available. Don't recall if there were preferred brands. Worth looking into I suppose.

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I have read the suspension posts quite a but I must have missed it. I know they say not to use Meyle because they will fail but I couldnt find anything else. Ill try and find some more info and price them out. Would be nice if 034 or Apikol or someone would make a quailty mount.

[ringbearer]

Thuppu on S2 forum makes a nice set.

[TCombs]

Thuppu on S2 forum makes a nice set.

Thanks! I sent him a PM on there. Also inquired about rear brake brackets. Im am going through his thread right now!

[ringbearer]

No problem!

[TCombs]

IMG_8074.jpg (1.58 MiB) Viewed 2521 times

Peeling

IMG_8071.jpg (1.3 MiB) Viewed 2521 times

Peeling

IMG_8071.jpg (1.3 MiB) Viewed 2521 times

IMG_8074.jpg (1.58 MiB) Viewed 2521 times

Finally, after way to long, the brakes are back on the car! My pads were getting pretty low and since the clear coat was peeling off of the Porsche logo I decided I might as well repaint them. I had a couple ideas of what I wanted to do and my buddy said I should do something unique.
I was able to do some measurements to find what Porsche these calipers came off of. They are the "Big Blacks" from a 993 911 Turbo. Rotors are a two piece 330x32mm with custom hats, that I need to get another set made just in case. Pads are OEM 911 Turbo pads. Painted with caliper clear, a base coat of my choice, and a 2k clear for a better protection and also had them covered with a ceramic coating. I am pretty happy with them. There a few spots that the paint rubbed off, but it is what it is. Worse comes to worse Ill just redo them or have them professionally done.
My buddy came up with the idea of doing a gecko logo and thats what I decided to go with.

[TCombs]

Few more pictures, on the car.

[TCombs]

Obviously I still don't now how to upload pictures bc they are never in order. I guess I have to upload my last one first.

[ringbearer]

Very nice! Different is always fun

[TCombs]

Very nice! Different is always fun

Ha I would agree with you there. I color matched them as best I could to the car paint. I really like them. Big fan of the Gecko so I thougt why not, it is Quattro after all!

[TCombs]

Spoke too soon!!!!

[Lucky]

Noooooo, what happened?

[pilihp2]

Fuck.....


Condolences man. Have had that happen before but on a much shittier car. sorry to see.

[TCombs]

Noooooo, what happened?

Not exactly sure. I torqued everything, drove quite a bit and made sure everything was good to go. Drove to and from work and drove around some more and everything was good. Drove 130 miles over a pass to a different city, everything was good. Drove less than a mile today and just fell off. I was only going around 25 luckily. Thought I heard a noise, so I started slowing down, car shook for about a second and next thing I knew the car slammed to the ground and the tire was rolling away. No one was hurt, but that car doesn't look that good. One of the lug bolts still had threads from the hub on it. You can see that the brake rotor had paint stripped off, so maybe I didn't have a good contact surface between the wheel and the rotor hat.
Some bro did stop by and completely talk down to make and act like I didn't know what I was doing. Questioned me about the hub when I said the wheel bearings are pressed in, because he "knew" they just bolt. Told me he works on Mercedes, and cars for the last 10 years and I need to torque the wheels correctly. I told him I torqued the wheels, and he said I need to torque them to at least 140lb ft or more. That's how he does every wheel, then said he goes until the bolt stops. Then told me I need to get wheel studs because if I had studs it wouldn't have happened. Continuing to say that what I did is like a Subaru and they are small and don't work well, even though a Subaru uses studs, not bolts and said he is rebuilding a WRX and knows what he is doing. Haha, but I got the wheel back on and it is currently being towed to work and I'll get it on the rack on Monday and address everything.

But can I just say, those calipers look good!

[TCombs]

So far from the looks of it, I'll need a new hub, brake rotor, fender and any other body damage, new wheel lugs, centering rings. Check condition of the caliper and make sure the rotor didn't damage anything, check the rest of the suspension on that side. Re-torque everything I have touched.

[Lucky]

Where are you located? I have a good condition fender I would let go. I'm in canada though.

Sounds like some 'bro' lol. I have wheel studs on mine and had them come loose. I realized aftereards that I had just quickly hit them on with the impact and didnt torque them down. My fault I just caught it before the nuts came off.

[TCombs]

Where are you located? I have a good condition fender I would let go. I'm in canada though.

Sounds like some 'bro' lol. I have wheel studs on mine and had them come loose. I realized aftereards that I had just quickly hit them on with the impact and didnt torque them down. My fault I just caught it before the nuts came off.

I'm in Oregon. Depends where at in Canada you are.
Ha yeah, I say bro because he was just one of those guys who thinks he knows everything. Not someone I would ever take my car too. I did that as well when I put the brakes on. Only drove about 20ft and then I torqued them. I took the wheels back off and bled the brake system at work, and then once again torqued them. Not to sure about what happened.