Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby ringbearer » Thu Jul 05, 2018 7:21 pm

Change the hose too for good measure
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:06 am

ringbearer wrote:Change the hose too for good measure
Is this a readily available part or can i get it from a FLAPS?

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Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby ringbearer » Fri Jul 06, 2018 5:52 pm

Not sure. I used the 034 braided SS part
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Fri Jul 06, 2018 9:07 pm

ringbearer wrote:Not sure. I used the 034 braided SS part
Found it on their site. Not sure I'm quite willing to pay $90 USD + shipping for a single hose. My line looks like it's still in decent shape. No leaking or weeping.

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Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby PRY4SNO » Sat Jul 07, 2018 12:12 pm

Your local hydraulic shop should be able to make one for you, much cheaper (and likely same day). If you can take in the original hose they can either re use the ends or make sure they install the right ends on the new hose.
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Sat Jul 07, 2018 12:26 pm

PRY4SNO wrote:Your local hydraulic shop should be able to make one for you, much cheaper (and likely same day). If you can take in the original hose they can either re use the ends or make sure they install the right ends on the new hose.
Good point. I ordered a hose from Paragon Performance in any case. I'll have to check with a local shop though too.

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Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Slave Replacement Issues

Postby IslandRinger » Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:55 pm

Received my new Slave Cylinder today so I thought I'd attempt to replace it tonight when I noticed differences between old vs new

The most obvious difference is that the actuating rod is in fact longer. It's also missing the other ball end. The ball end it does have does not have a retaining collar for the boot. The boot itself is bigger to accommodate for the longer rod. Minor differences are that the bleed screw location is slightly different and the body is physically longer slightly.

Will I run into any issues using this "new" Slave Cylinder?

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Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Fri Jul 13, 2018 12:39 pm

Solved my conundrum with the help of some of the folks over at QW. The new slave, while slightly different, ended up being fine. Finished installing the new master cylinder. It came in a Sachs box but actually was an OEM Boge replacement. Bonus! Just waiting on a new clutch line from Paragon Performance and I'll be ready to install the slave.

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Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby TCombs » Fri Jul 13, 2018 8:20 pm

IslandRinger wrote:Solved my conundrum with the help of some of the folks over at QW. The new slave, while slightly different, ended up being fine. Finished installing the new master cylinder. It came in a Sachs box but actually was an OEM Boge replacement. Bonus! Just waiting on a new clutch line from Paragon Performance and I'll be ready to install the slave.

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Very nice. Let us know how it goes and if it solves your problem. I might have missed it, did you end up pulling the tranny out?
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Fri Jul 13, 2018 8:52 pm

TCombs wrote:
IslandRinger wrote:Solved my conundrum with the help of some of the folks over at QW. The new slave, while slightly different, ended up being fine. Finished installing the new master cylinder. It came in a Sachs box but actually was an OEM Boge replacement. Bonus! Just waiting on a new clutch line from Paragon Performance and I'll be ready to install the slave.

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Very nice. Let us know how it goes and if it solves your problem. I might have missed it, did you end up pulling the tranny out?
Will do. I did not pull the trans out. The symptoms led me to believe there were issues with either the master or slave. I preferred to start with the easier stuff. Here's to hoping it fixes the issue.

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Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Fri Sep 07, 2018 5:25 pm

Quick update. All new clutch hydraulic parts did not solve the problem. Looks like I'll be dropping the tranny after all. Ugh.

Looking for suggestions for a good clutch kit for my Volvo turbo setup.

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Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby PRY4SNO » Sat Sep 08, 2018 2:17 pm

The guys in Europe swear by the Sachs 707 pressure plate, which is what Southbend uses (as I understand).

Feramic won't spoil if oil gets past the rear main, and holds up to a lot of torque. That's what I'd recommend.
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|| 1990 Coupe quattro /// Because Racecar

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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Sat Sep 08, 2018 3:36 pm

Good to know. EFI Express has a good run of Southbend clutches. Looking at the Stage 2 Endurance potentially. Ticks the boxes you mentioned.

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Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Mon Sep 17, 2018 4:48 am

Finally did what I should've done a week ago and emailed Marc at EFI. Asked him for a recommendation for a clutch kit that would suit my power and torque with the hardware I have coming down the line.

He recommended the South Bend Stage 3 Daily kit. It should be able to easily handle the modest Volvo K24 upgrade while still giving me flexibility to run E85 if I choose to do so in the future. Looking into ordering one shortly to get the ball rolling.

Anything else worth taking care of "while I'm in there?"
As mentioned, I've already replaced the clutch master, slave and hydraulic line. I know it's recommended to deal with the rear main seal and plan on at least purchasing the part and replacing if needed.
Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby PRY4SNO » Mon Sep 17, 2018 5:11 pm

Regarding the RMS, I believe the 1.8t part is a nice upgrade and not expensive either.

I'd look at doing the pilot/throw out bearing because it's a huge pain in the ass going back in just for that.
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:09 am

PRY4SNO wrote:Regarding the RMS, I believe the 1.8t part is a nice upgrade and not expensive either.

I'd look at doing the pilot/throw out bearing because it's a huge pain in the ass going back in just for that.


I'll look into that 1.8T part you mention. I know there are two styles of rear main seals, old and new. I believe the updated version is a flange-style if that's what you're referring to.
As mentioned, I'll order the part but will decide to replace or not depending on the condition of the current seal. I've heard lots of stories of people replacing a dry seal only to have the new seal leak shortly after.

As for the pilot/throwout bearing, aren't those usually included in the clutch kits?
Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby morris400 » Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:53 pm

This needs updates lol.
2016 VW Jetta 1.4T Daily Driver Stock.
1994 UrS4 - K24 7400 EFI Express tuned
2001 B5 S4 Stg 3- ( gone! Dropped valve cyl 4)

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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Wed Feb 27, 2019 7:31 am

morris400 wrote:This needs updates lol.

HAHA! Dude I know. I've been terrible at trying to keep a log of what I've been doing as well as taking pictures.
Life does not make things easy I tell ya! Even me getting back to your post has taken me a month :lol:

Here is where the car lies with some updates as to what's been going on.
As per norm, progress has been agonizingly slow. Between life at home, my work schedule taking me away from home (Month on-Month off), and crappy weather, I've only gotten a little farther than where I last posted.

I had previously done a timing belt job which mostly went well. All the usuals got replaced. I only had one hiccup that I'll have to revisit. I started up the car to bleed the coolant. Timing was quadruple checked before turning the key. Car ran well after being out of service for a while. After about 15 minutes of run time, the coolant was bled but I did hear a slight ticking noise. Fearful, I shut the car off immediately. I dug around and found that the new belt had shredded itself! :bangshead: If I had run the car for another few minutes, things might have been slightly different on this post. From what I can see without taking everything off again, I have a suspicion that the belt was rubbing against the cover. I'm hoping it'll be obvious when I pull jewelry off... again. FML!

I soldiered on with the other work that was on my list, not wanting to deal with the timing belt issue again for a bit. I was at a point where I knew I would have to replace the clutch and I was looking at the Southbend Clutch kits from Marc at EFI. I wanted to potentially "upgrade" to a SMFW as well but EFI did not have a kit for this. I searched around and found that the "other guys" (aka 034) had a Southbend kit with a lightened aluminum SMFW. This seemed like the perfect one kit solution to what I was striving for. Ordered the Stage 3 Daily kit which should be ample for my goals. On top of this, I ordered a few more parts and seals and such for the upcoming work.

This last month after getting home from my month away at work, I decided to finally get some forward momentum going. First up, I started to prep myself for pulling the trans for the clutch and flywheel replacement. The exhaust was pulled in its entirety from the downpipe back. This was on the list anyways as I have a Gen V Stromung ready to go in. I purchased new hangars as well in anticipation of that job. Yet to be installed. I then got my trigger finger flexed on my can of penetrant, working on all the fasteners on the downpipe, turbo, wastegate, and exhaust manifold. After letting them soak for a day or two, I started attempting to pull those off. To make things easier, I removed the airbox top to allow for easier working space for the work to come. Good decision. All the remaining exhaust pieces came off with a bit of patience and the right tools. Mostly. The Sunex Half Moon Wrench Set from Amazon was clutch at reaching some of those fasteners. If anyone is curious as to what I'm talking about, I'll post a link at the end of this post. I also used a stud remover for pulling the exhaust manifold studs. This step made me nervous as I'd heard nightmare stories of studs snapping in the head. Luckily, spraying them with penetrant and once again, using the right tool made this a breeze. Only issue I ran into here was a striped wastegate-to-turbo fastener. I pulled them together but I'll have to figure out how to separate them. This is as far as I've gotten with the exhaust stuff. I'll need to chase out the threads and install the new studs for the RS2 mainfold going in. The Volvo K24 also has a stud hole that needs to be chased out or re-tapped as it's in rough shape from previous stud removal I believe.

I then focused on getting the transmission prepped for pulling. I disconnected the axles and pulled them out of the way. Starter was pulled out of the way. Clutch slave was pulled out of the way. Driveshaft was disconnected and dropped from the aft end of the trans. Shift linkage was separated (marked before for easy reinstallation). Electrical connections were disconnected. I think I'm ready to pull save for the trans mounts and the bell housing bolts. This is where the update ends as I had to battle with the Polar Vortex and I've now gone back to sea for the month. I'm looking to pull the trans and get the clutch stuff done when I get back at the end of March. Hopefully, all that work is relatively straight-forward.

Hope to keep ticking things off on the list but I've got a ways yet to go before the car is on her own feet again. Don't have any pics of the process as I'm terrible at remembering to take them as I work but I'll try and get something posted. Goal is to get the car running again for the summer. The car will most likely need to be dialed in as I only have a few baseline tunes for the VEMS standalone I'll be running. Don't have the most adequate roads for doing logging pulls but I do have a dyno in town so that may be the route I got. A little progress is still forward motion. Well, that's what I keep telling myself.

Links below to the tools I used for future searches:
Image
https://www.amazon.ca/Sunex-9935M-Metric-Wrench-5-Piece/dp/B000XW0XY8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2S5DIGAR60RD8&keywords=half+moon+wrench+set&qid=1551269247&s=gateway&sprefix=half+moon+wrench%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-2
Image
https://www.amazon.ca/Performance-Tool-W83203-Extractor-Remover/dp/B01GGV1UWI/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2HTRHNYYIY4BZ&keywords=stud+remover&qid=1551269415&s=gateway&sprefix=stud+remo%2Caps%2C222&sr=8-10
Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Clutch Work PICS

Postby IslandRinger » Thu Apr 18, 2019 2:34 pm

Time for another long overdue update. I left off the project at a point nearly ready to drop the trans. I returned home and got to work. I double checked for any other interference before starting to remove the trans. Then the trans mount fasteners and the bell housing fasteners were removed. The trans was lowered using my wide-pad floor jack and the trans was pulled into the garage.

For my clutch kit, I am using 034's South Bend Clutch kit with the Lightened Aluminum flywheel. First, the trans was cleaned up using a few wire brushes on my drill and manually to remove 20+ years of road gunk. I was glad to see that the inside of the bellhousing was oil free! No leaks from the trans input shaft seal or the Rear Crank Seal either. Once it was cleaned up, I pulled the old throwout bearing. The old throwout bearing was intact but felt a little loose. The input shaft sleeve was showing signs of surface corrosion so I took some fine grit sandpaper and cleaned it up well. The input shaft sleeve, splines, and the throwout bearing guides and running face were greased and reinstalled. The CV flanges were also cleaned of old grease and dust from cleaning the trans.

I then went back underneath the car to remove the old pressure plate, clutch disc, and flywheel. They came off relatively easily save for the pressure plate being a bit seized on it's dowel pins. Again, everything looked relatively in OK shape. Then again, this is my first time ever doing a clutch replacement so I'm not entirely sure what things are supposed to look like. With the HEAVY ass DMFW removed, I cleaned up the back face of the block and removed the rear main seal flange and gasket. This job was fairly easy as the new gasket/flange combo came with a plastic sleeve to help slide over the crank. Everything was cleaned prior to install. With that in place, I moved onto the new SMFW. The weight comparison between the stock flywheel and the aluminum one are shocking! I should have weight them both prior to install but I was in a groove. I'd be curious to see what the numbers are. I had to install the supplied pilot bearing and circlips as an OEM-style one will not work with the new flywheel. This was easily done with a 23mm socket and a touch of grease to help drive it into the bore. The flywheel was installed onto the crankshaft with the supplied shortened bolts and torqued to spec. Then the clutch disc was set up on the alignment tool and installed onto the flywheel. The pressure plate followed and once again the supplied pressure plate bolts were torqued to spec. I opted to use some medium strength threadlocker on these bolts. All friction surfaces were cleaned well with brake clean prior to install of the clutch disc.

Finally, it was time to reinstall the trans. I enlisted the help of a good buddy of mine and we got to work one evening. I had setup the trans under the car earlier in the day. We used two floor jacks to get the trans raised up and lined up with the engine. A top tip is to remove the trans mounts as they will cause interference while getting everything into position. On our first go, we thought we had everything lined up but still ran into some interference. This ended up being the coolant hose bracket at the top DS of the engine getting caught in between the bellhousing and block. With that removed, we fought some more and gave up for the night. I reached out to the various avenues for assistance as I was not sure why we couldn't get the trans slid on all the way. We were so close but it felt like it wouldn't budge any farther. The most common suggestion was the splines were not lined up. The next evening, I put the trans in gear and rotated the drive flange while my buddy wiggled and pushed and we got the trans slid on about 90-95% on! We then carefully pulled it all in using the bellhousing bolts paying attention to the resistance. It all went together nicely! The Starter was reinstalled and the trans mounts were reinstalled along with torquing all the bellhousing bolts.

That's basically where we ended off. The rain came in heavy today so my progress with the remaining parts of the transmission work will be put on hold for now. Lots of things left till we can call the clutch swap done but the worst part is over! I don't wish that work on anyone and I'll be damn glad if I never have to do that again! I've added pictures of the work and the parts removed and installed for reference. Next on the list is to finish the clutch swap stuff and then I'm hoping to move onto installing the 044 fuel pump and relay kit. I leave for work in less than a week so that may have to wait till May. Phew...

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage
Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Sun Apr 28, 2019 3:13 pm

Starting to plan my work for when I get back home from sea.

I know the Volvo K24-7400 can use the stock oil and coolant lines. My stock lines aren't leaking. I've seen some folks have converted to AN fittings and SS braid hoses. Any BTDTs or tips for doing this? Looks worth it I think.

Flange sizing, hose lengths, etc are appreciated.

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Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Posts: 80
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada

Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby benznotmercedes » Mon Apr 29, 2019 7:13 am

IslandRinger wrote:Starting to plan my work for when I get back home from sea.

I know the Volvo K24-7400 can use the stock oil and coolant lines. My stock lines aren't leaking. I've seen some folks have converted to AN fittings and SS braid hoses. Any BTDTs or tips for doing this? Looks worth it I think.

Flange sizing, hose lengths, etc are appreciated.

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It has been a year or so since I did this on my sedan but IIRC the stock coolant lines fit 100%. We made a new oil feed and reused the stock oil drain (which barely fit because it ran into clearance issues with the Vband adapter on the turbo).

This post has part numbers for everything you would need, my buddy Erwin wrote this up on the other forum. Mods, I hope I am allowed to post this. https://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/337959.phtml
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Mon Apr 29, 2019 7:35 am

benznotmercedes wrote:
IslandRinger wrote:Starting to plan my work for when I get back home from sea.

I know the Volvo K24-7400 can use the stock oil and coolant lines. My stock lines aren't leaking. I've seen some folks have converted to AN fittings and SS braid hoses. Any BTDTs or tips for doing this? Looks worth it I think.

Flange sizing, hose lengths, etc are appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


It has been a year or so since I did this on my sedan but IIRC the stock coolant lines fit 100%. We made a new oil feed and reused the stock oil drain (which barely fit because it ran into clearance issues with the Vband adapter on the turbo).

This post has part numbers for everything you would need, my buddy Erwin wrote this up on the other forum. Mods, I hope I am allowed to post this. https://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/337959.phtml


I'm familiar with that post on QW. Good starting point. Looks like you have to do some enlarging of some of the flange holes. Not my preferred choice but I guess it'll work. I'd prefer to find oil feed/drain flanges that fit directly. I'm sure they exist.

Good to know about the Coolant Lines working straight across.

Also, when reinstalling the turbo, did you install the lines to the turbo first or just attach them once the turbo was in place? I have a suspicion that things will be tight once the turbo is installed.
Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada

Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby Lucky » Mon Apr 29, 2019 11:11 am

For the 7400 in my urs4 I used a braided steel oil supply and the factory coolant lines. I had the same issue as above with the drain line interference with the vband connection.
You could have the pipe welded (no more vband) or do some strategic clearance work to make it fit.
1988 audi 80, 1994 Urs4, 2005 Ranger
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby morris400 » Tue Apr 30, 2019 11:26 am

Lucky wrote:For the 7400 in my urs4 I used a braided steel oil supply and the factory coolant lines. I had the same issue as above with the drain line interference with the vband connection.
You could have the pipe welded (no more vband) or do some strategic clearance work to make it fit.


for sure a fan of the custom oil feed, made the install easy. just need that fitting adapter for the block. for the return...I managed to keep the stock drain line... its tight...like really tight, but I mad it fit with the Vband. That being said, welding a pipe to the compressor housing would be the route id chose if I could go back. make things easy.
2016 VW Jetta 1.4T Daily Driver Stock.
1994 UrS4 - K24 7400 EFI Express tuned
2001 B5 S4 Stg 3- ( gone! Dropped valve cyl 4)

IF YOU CANT STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS...FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM!
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Re: Tarpan's 1996 Audi UrS6 - Suspension done. What's next?

Postby IslandRinger » Tue Apr 30, 2019 1:21 pm

morris400 wrote:
Lucky wrote:For the 7400 in my urs4 I used a braided steel oil supply and the factory coolant lines. I had the same issue as above with the drain line interference with the vband connection.
You could have the pipe welded (no more vband) or do some strategic clearance work to make it fit.


for sure a fan of the custom oil feed, made the install easy. just need that fitting adapter for the block. for the return...I managed to keep the stock drain line... its tight...like really tight, but I mad it fit with the Vband. That being said, welding a pipe to the compressor housing would be the route id chose if I could go back. make things easy.


Where did you source your flanges for the custom line Kenny? I'm hoping to custom make the oil feed and drain.
Tarpan (Victoria, BC)
Stable:
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 1.8T [DD/Family Wagen]
1996 Audi UrS6 [The Ongoing Project]

1986 Audi Coupe GT [SOLD]
User avatar
IslandRinger
 
Posts: 80
Joined: Dec 4, 2015
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada

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