RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

by **Lucky** » Mon Aug 26, 2019 3:55 pm

I have an fyf bolted to an abz it works great. You may want to get a tdi 6th gear before you install it though. In 6th on the highway I rev at 3100 rpm around 110kmh or a little over 65mph. That's my next upgrade, otherwise it's fantastic!

by **alxdgr8** » Mon Aug 26, 2019 5:21 pm

Lucky wrote:I have an fyf bolted to an abz it works great. You may want to get a tdi 6th gear before you install it though. In 6th on the highway I rev at 3100 rpm around 110kmh or a little over 65mph. That's my next upgrade, otherwise it's fantastic!

Yeah I've thought about that, I know it won't be great but it'll be pretty similar to the current 5AT. TDI 5/6th would be awesome but not sure if I can justify the cost since I don't do massive amounts of highway driving. Any long trips we end up taking the wife's TDI and even highway trips are usually mostly congestion because Seattle traffic sucks.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

by **alxdgr8** » Mon Aug 26, 2019 5:48 pm

Did some quick math, with a 4.11 FD ratio, 0.73 6th gear in the FYF, and a 27" tire on the S8

65mph = 2400rpm
3000 = 80mph

I'd be happy with that setup. I could always use a B5S4 6th if I wanted to get it down more. That would translate to about 100rpm drop at 65. 3k rpm would then get me 85.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

by **Lucky** » Mon Aug 26, 2019 9:55 pm

Makes more sense I forgot I was limited to tires around the 23 inch range.

by **the german** » Mon Aug 26, 2019 10:20 pm

Great recap and some awesome pics I haven't seen before!

by **PRY4SNO** » Tue Aug 27, 2019 8:09 am

Really liking the updates. Wheels look prime, the final version of the exhaust sounds spot on, and just wait! There's more! Adding a man pedal will really prove to be the beginning. PS. Valve covers look tight. Good eye, small modification that pays dividends.

by **90quattrocoupe** » Sat Aug 31, 2019 11:42 am

Big update Alex. Very nice.

Greg W.

by **90quattrocoupe** » Sat Aug 31, 2019 11:48 am

As far as 6th TDI gears go, I am running a .56 6th. I love it.
Before you put the FYF box in your car, I would at least do the upgraded 1/2 gear collar.

Greg W.

by **alxdgr8** » Sun Sep 01, 2019 6:07 pm

Remembered to take a snapshot while on the highway to compare ratios.

5AT = ~2750 RPM at 70mph
FYF = 2600 RPM at 70mph

So I'll get a 150-200 rpm drop.

0.56 = 2000 RPM at 70mph which would require downshifting for pretty much any grade
B5 S4 0.684 = 2450rpm

The S4 6th would be nice, but the FYF isn't too bad and better than stock so I probably won't mess with anything. The TDI stuff just doesn't make sense for me. It would take a lot of highway driving that I don't do to offset the cost with the gas savings.

by **Einbilden** » Mon Sep 02, 2019 12:38 am

You Sir are bad for me,,,,,, what a cool locking car. This was never on my radar but it is now.
More please.

by **alxdgr8** » Sat Sep 21, 2019 4:25 pm

More parts coming in.

TTV Racing 20lb flywheel that accepts a B7 RS4 clutch

IMG_20190918_181429 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20190918_181643 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Grabbed a spare auto pedal cluster to work on mockup. Ordered an OE clutch pedal from Europe (p/n 4D1 721 316 A). Working on seeing if I can get a B5 clutch over-center spring to work before I have to order that from Audi Tradition. As you can see, the stock pedal slights right onto the auto cage. Also plan on using a different clutch master since the OE one is getting hard to find even in Europe and the auto cage requires some mods anyways.

IMG_20190905_095035 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

by **alxdgr8** » Wed Dec 04, 2019 1:43 pm

Thought I posted this but guess I didn't... January 2019

Since I solved the ugly D2 engine cover problem with D3 parts the coolant and power steering reservoirs continued to bug me. We've got some nice covers around the intake and other lines but then Audi just seemed to run out of time/money/whatever and left the coolant and PS reservoirs just sitting there uncovered.

But you see, they did have a solution, they just decided not to install it on very many cars. A couple of late night internet sessions had me stumble upon a cover installed on some V6 TDI D2's in europe and I found a few part numbers on a Polish Audi forum. Found them on Audi Tradition and ordered them through Issam Abed who recently became an AT dealer. Price ended up being ~$240 shipped (shipped twice since they had to go to Canada first). They're also being sold on ebay through a Latvia company for slightly more.

Reservoir cover - 4D0805583E
Rear bracket - 4D0805691A
Forward bracket - 4D0805784D

The rear bracket bolts on once you remove the small cover over some of the coolant hoses. I also trimmed a bit off the unused hose clip on the coolant reservoir.
The front bracket needs a hole drilled into the PS reservoir bracket as shown. I used a rivnut but a hole with bolt/nut would work just fine. Front attachment might not even really be necessary, it seems to stay on pretty well without it too.

MVIMG_20190114_170657 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

FB_IMG_1575485332513 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

FB_IMG_1575485340798 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

FB_IMG_1575485345568 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

FB_IMG_1575485350340 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

by **varia** » Thu Dec 05, 2019 10:51 am

very nice my friend!

They always say: do a manual swap!
And when you do, only then you realize how many small things it needs to complete it.

I bet, it will be a beast once its done.

by **alxdgr8** » Mon Jul 13, 2020 11:00 pm

The swap has begun! (and completed by the time I've written this)

I filmed this entire venture and will be uploading a series of videos to my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDHGsp ... goMo9IbZpg

This project thread will provide a supplement and you'd really have to both watch and read to see all of the details. But I'll try and document all of the part numbers and nitty gritty details here.

Bought an '85 4kq to be the daily driver while performing the swap. I of course had to get a barely running one and put a few weeks of work into it, but got it running great and the S8 went into the garage!

2020-06-22 01.07.13 1 (1) by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Well and before all of this I had to get the garage a bit more organized and the lift installed. Still more to do but it was at least useable now.

PANO_20200605_182239.vr by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Since I have a large beam in the middle of the garage I can only get about 50" of height under the lift so I bought this awesome adjustable creeper from EZ Creeper (https://ezcreeper.com/ meant for the general aviation industry). Can adjust the height of the base and the angle of the back and is made of aluminum so it's light. Makes sliding around under the car super easy and is arguably more comfortable than standing under a full height lift. A bit expensive, but well worth it for my situation.

IMG_20200505_172853 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200505_172759 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200507_192447 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

And then it began!

IMG_20200606_182629 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

by **alxdgr8** » Mon Jul 13, 2020 11:45 pm

How to 6MT swap a D2 Audi S8

***Parts Lists - P/N and sources are provided, more in-depth details of each to follow***
Price in RED, some are merely estimates due to used parts pricing.

Transmission

01E transmission

$650

Trans mounts

$250

Flywheel

http://ttvracing.com/products/?manufact ... =flywheels

£385

Clutch/Pressure Plate

$160

Clutch Pedal

123EUR

$30

$10

$20

Clutch Master Cylinder

https://amzn.to/305NOTn

$35

Clutch Master-Slave Hose

$158

https://amzn.to/2C82Os1

https://amzn.to/3j3fdhm

Reverse Lights/Neutral Safety Switch

$85

https://advancedautomotion.com/shop/pro ... vcd247ire0

https://amzn.to/3h0XXrv

https://amzn.to/3033yqi

Shfiter

https://store.034motorsport.com/012-016 ... -urs6.html

$100

Shift Boot/Shift Knob

$50

Drivetrain

Lengthened Driveshaft

$675

https://advancedautomotion.com/shop/pro ... vcd247ire0

Axles

$150

Axle Spacer

$120

Engine

ECU

$600

Odd Cylinder YouTube Video Series:

In Part 1 of the series I provide an overview of my car and some of its current modifications and an overview of all of the parts that I'll be using to complete the swap.

In part 2, I show you a few tips and tricks on getting the automatic transmission removed from the vehicle. I also begin some quick work on modifying the standard North American pedal cluster .

In part 3, I show you a few tips and tricks for sealing your upper and lower oil pan. I also show you how to add a clutch pedal to your automatic pedal cluster with a OE clutch pedal and B5 clutch master cylinder.

In part 4 I show you how to modify C4 UrS4/UrS6 shifter linkage to work in the D2 S8. I also install my 034 Motorsport 01E short shifter.

In Part 5 I catch you up with all that is left to be done with the swap. I also get the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate installed.

In Part 6 I prep the 01E with fresh fluid for install, build the reverse light harness, and install the transmission!

In Part 7 I talk a bit about shifter alignment, rebuild the CV's, install new wheel bearings, and install the CV's and driveshaft.

In Part 8 I reinstall the exhaust and start the car for the first time!!!

In Part 9 I wire up the clutch switch and show you how to program the ECU and ABS modules with VCDS.

In Part 10 I add a VSS sender to my B6 A4 3.0L 01E transmission in order to get a working

by **alxdgr8** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 12:11 am

For the cat/downpipe removal the massive 36" harbor freight 3/8" extension with a swivel works wonders. So much easier than trying to squeeze wrenches in there. Com at them from way back.

IMG_20200615_191943 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200615_185156 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200615_185200 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Difference in length between original 5AT and the new 6MT one

IMG_20200616_175946 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200616_175952 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Need to support the engine from the top, I bought a 4-point transverse engine support to avoid the fenders. Although the Bentley does show to use a standard fender-mount engine support but you need to install some placers between the fenders and chassis. I didn't trust that. I originally had the front passenger side arm reaching down to the snub mount but then realized I need to remove that. So it got moved to the core support like the driver's side front arm. Worked great and held up over several weeks of the engine hanging.

IMG_20200612_155938 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200612_155955 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Leaking rear main/upper oil pan and removing the very bottom bellhousing bolt is a pain. Helps to lift up the engine to give more space between the subframe.

IMG_20200617_213727 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Highly, highly reccomend removing the front seat to do pedal work. 4 bolts and a couple connectors and it's out, super easy and allows you to lay down comfortable.

IMG_20200609_180740 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Auto is out! What a massive beast! Had to drop the rear of the subframe several inches and wedge the giant auto trans through the gap. Super sketchy but it made it out. I would want to drop the entire subframe if I had to reinstall an auto.

IMG_20200619_194204 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Holy difference! 01E is roughly 200 lbs lighter and it certainly looks that way!

IMG_20200701_224600 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Lots of room now!

IMG_20200701_182140 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

New rear main seal (bought just this seal; works great vs Audi trying to sell the whole flange with the seal). Also resealed the upper and lower oil pans to fix some pesky leaks after 200k miles. Interestingly my original rear main seal from 2003 still had W. Germany stamped on it! They must've had a lot of old parts sitting around for D2's or they never changed the molds.

IMG_20200622_172953 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200624_175759 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate in and ready to go. Also new engine mounts. Trans mounts still looked good and weren't leaking so I kept those. But I did find that Energy Suspension 3.1108G GM TRANSMISSION MOUNT ($30 each on Amazon https://amzn.to/32mXXy2) would work with some spacers. Good to know for the future. I bought half a dozen different mounts trying to find one close enough.

IMG_20200701_204823 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200622_171516 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200622_171455 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200622_171600 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

New vs old clutch fork pivot. Super cheap to replace.

IMG_20200608_200455 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Cutting up the auto brake pedal. Used a B5 pad to cover it. Spacing is nearly the same as a factory OE manual pedal cluster.

IMG_20200615_164223 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200615_164230 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200615_165400 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200616_163533 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

by **alxdgr8** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 12:32 am

Standard auto pedal holder ready for modifications

IMG_20200624_185226 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Contrary to other swap guides, you don't need to drop the steering column to remove the pedal cluster. It's actually better that you don't because then you can lay underneath without it getting in the way. You just need to remove the pedals before you remove the frame and then it'll rotate around the shaft. It is a pain to get to the 4 nuts for removal though. Disconnecting the wiper helps immensely. I didn't unhook any brake lines, but I did feel the need to remove the brake reservoir. Other people have been able to flex it enough to not.

IMG_20200625_183201 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200625_183205 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200624_213613 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200624_215809 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Use holesaw/stepbit to drill a hole in the stock cluster frame. Some people say you need to reinforce this area but I didn't see the need. It's pretty thick cast aluminum and a plastic master clyinder. Using 40mm standoff spacers with the B5 master allowed the correct 114.5mm pivot to cage reference distance that the Bentley gives for setting the clutch master cylinder height. You might need to use a different spacing if you aren't using the OE clutch pedal. Seal around the master and the frame with butyl tape. I used rivnuts for the master mounting, way easier than nyloc nuts.

IMG_20200626_170852 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200627_191845 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200626_220007 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200626_175310 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

There's a nice perforation on the pedal cage insulation to remove the portion covering the clutch master.

IMG_20200629_193338 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Still 2 pedals but progress!

IMG_20200629_204921 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Modifying the C4 linkage and installing the 034 shfiter. The front sections of the shift linkage as exactly the same length, you need to extend the rears by roughly 2". The C4 orange boot is slightly smaller than the D2 hole so it won't seal effectively. I cut the D2 boot to where it fit the C4 and then installed both.

IMG_20200630_190920 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200630_215420 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200701_181943 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

I HATE rebuilding axles, so messy! Once again, swapped the D2 outer CV's onto the C4 axles so I didn't have to mess with the wheel speed sensor spacing. They slide right on and work with the C4 outer boots.

IMG_20200703_164450 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Trans in, spacer installed

IMG_20200703_134322 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Fresh driveshaft!

IMG_20200703_202045 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Exhaust with new to me SuperSprint Catback

MVIMG_20200703_231149 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Need to run a wire from ECU pin #39 to the clutch switch. Spare pin is already populated in the ECU connector, remove it and crimp onto a wire then pass it down into the cabin and route it over to the pedals.

IMG_20200706_183616 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Might need to dremel the safety screws on the ECU if it has never been removed before

IMG_20200625_174536 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Scored some facelift OE carbon trim (with automatic shifter surround that still works with the manual). Has the beautiful blue weave like the UrS4 and RS2 carbon trim.

IMG_20200706_152837 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200709_182238 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200707_202932 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

by **alxdgr8** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 12:40 am

Might eventually redo some of the shift boot, but for now the B6 stuff works. I cut and narrowed the B6 plastic frame to align better with the D2 auto trim.

IMG_20200707_133557 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200707_134308 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200707_134631 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

I then used it upside down to hold the boot to the trim from the inside. The four tabs aren't too visible as they press against the boot above the trim. I'd like to eventually design and 3D print a new trim piece and sew my own boot.

IMG_20200707_141709 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200707_141719 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

C4 shifter was too tall for my taste. There is a slight diameter difference below the threaded portion as shown. I had to first use a M13x1.5 die to thread into the slightly larger diameter before I was then able to follow with the proper M12x1.5 die. I then cut the shaft shorter which allowed the ball to sit lower. Also had to trim the small plastic piece that sits below the shift boot to allow everything to sit lower. I'm using a euro C4 (I believe) 6spd shift knob. The B6 shit knob while it has a nice weight to it, sits taller and doesn't have M12 threads.

IMG_20200701_180452 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200707_155359 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200707_114933 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

by **alxdgr8** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 1:06 am

Starter interlock removal and reverse lights

On the 10-pin F125 range selector switch plug:
[*]Jumper pin 9 and 10 together, this will disable the starter interlock (car had to be in park to start; you could maybe make this a clutch in to start switch but I didn't)
[*]Pin 7 and 8 you wire up to you reverse switch, polarity doesn't matter since it's an open/closed switch.

You can do this a few way as hinted at in the parts list. You can buy the connector parts from Audi/TE, buy the harness from Advanced Automotion, hack up your old switch, hack up a new switch, or hack up your engine/trans harness and make it whatever connector you want.
Connector: Audi 6X0973815 Pins: TE 964269-2 Seals: 963530-1

Clutch switch
The ECU needs a functioning clutch switch to work properly, otherwise you'll have rev-hang.
The switch needs to normally open (ie. when the clutch pedal is depressed the circuit is broken). The circuit is a positive voltage circuit, not a grounding circut like some switches are.

8D0911807A is supposed to be a clutch switch, but the one that I received operated in reverse (ie. normally closed). When I installed I had all kinds of issues since I didn't notice that it was functioning in reverse (ie. when clutch was in, it told ECU clutch was out and vice versa). The car was super hard to drive and of course cruise control didn't work.

So instead of ordering another clutch switch I had a spare D2 brake switch sitting around that I used. The D2 brake switch has 4 pins/2 separate switches (an initial brake test switch and a brake light switch). Each of these 2 circuits functions opposite, so you get both normally-open or normally-closed switches in one. The smaller set of pins is the normally-open circuit that you want to you.

One side of the clutch switch goes to ECU pin #39 as detailed previously. The other side gets switched 12v power. I tied into the switched 12v power that the brake switch uses, which is the black/yellow wire on my D2 (check the Bentley for your specific model/year).

You can use VCDS ECU measuring blocks 66 to verify functionality of the clutch switch (and cruise and brake switch).

Module Coding

ECU:
If your tuner hasn't done so already, you need to change your soft coding to '10713'
Which is (10) Euro Emissions III since you're using the Euro MT bin file, (7) AWD w/ESP, (1) 6MT, 3 D2 A8/S8
You could disable ESP with the soft-coding if you'd like but I keep it engaged and then you can disable with the button.
Another thing to note about the ECU which I came across is the cruise control. I'm presuming that when mine was flashed to the euro file the cruise control was turned off in the ECU. This is supposedly pretty common for new ECUs out of the box. You can verify by connecting to the ECU and looking at the Component field. If it says '4.2L V8/5V G' then cruise is enabled. If the 'G' is not present as was my case, then cruise control must be re-enabled. You can do this by performing a 'Login' and coding '11463'. You might need to key-off the ignition and reconnect to the module to verify you now have the 'G' in the component field.
More details here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... ing_Values
ABS:
Change coding to 08395 using login 05495
Instrument Cluster:
To tell the cluster to no longer look for the TCU go to Adaptation, channel 60 and set to 1025. This isn't 100% necessary, but prevents you from having the cluster give you an error code for the missing TCU.

by **alxdgr8** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 1:13 am

And bam, CCW wheels swapped back on for summer and she's ready for a test drive!

IMG_20200707_232219 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Loooooving the carbon trim and oxblood

IMG_20200709_210512 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

SuperSpring Exhaust sound excellent. Very tame and daily driveable, but still louder than stock. Perfectly keeps with the essence of the S8 and doesn't ruin it's comfort and class. Zero drone on the highway and a nice deep tone under acceleration.

IMG_20200709_210606 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

I'm super happy I did this swap. So much more fun to drive now and definitely helps the car feel even smaller than it is. It's not a hassle to drive it either. The heavier flywheel and OE B7 RS4 clutch make for smooth delivery without chatter despite being single mass. Gear ratios of the B6 01E are excellent and while the freeway gearing isn't as fuel friendly as a B5 (or TDI options) I don't need that. I don't do enough high speed freeway driving to make that much of a difference, the B6 ratios make passing easy without having to downshift. Around town 3 and 4 are great too.

00100trPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200713170725395_COVER by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

00100trPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200713171230144_COVER by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

by **alxdgr8** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 1:48 am

Placeholder 1

by **alxdgr8** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 1:49 am

Placeholder 2

by **varia** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 2:12 am

Amazing work Alex!!!!

by **jolio1994** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 2:20 am

I'm drooling over all the carbon fiber here.

#Placeholder3

by **alxdgr8** » Tue Jul 14, 2020 7:19 pm

Forgot about one of the oops moments. The B6 01E is a bit of a parts bin child and seemed to change quite a few times over the short lifespan. I had to drill and tap a hole that holds the C4 style shift stabilizer. Some people have reported that the center diff cover isn't even machined for a VSS (vehicle speed sensor; aka speedo). My side cover was machined, but it had a dummy sensor plugged into it. I didn't think much about that and thought I'd just order a VSS and swap it in (or you can also use your automatic one). I should've checked with a borescope though because once I installed it in the car and went for a test drive, I didn't have a speedo. I was missing the magnetic sender gear. My local friend Howard who was doing this same swap at the same time and also using a GBE, his had a VSS installed along with the gear.

https://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/168463.phtml

After the fact I come to read that this is a pretty common issue when people use the B6 01Es and you can just buy the sender gear and pop it on (after you drain the fluid and remove the CV, stub axle, and cover plate). Good news is that it's not too bad of a job and the part is still available. The most recent revision (p/n 012409187D) was available within 2 days from by local VW dealer (Audi dealer should be able to get it too; VW was closer for me). Swapped right into my GBE 01E and speedo worked like a charm! I was a bit disappointed to have to drain my less than 50 mile Fuchs Titan Sintofluid GL5 (01E technically need GL4 but the Fuchs GL5 works well according to the internet). However, when I drained it (warm) it came out almost black already! The transmission sat for several years with fluid in it and I drained it cold, so I assume I didn't get everything out. So it probably was a good thing that I did a flush anyways.

97462402_525330291705117_3289696471993024512_n by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200710_182825 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

IMG_20200710_182756 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Re: RONINS8: Project Luxobarge

Who is online