B4Q 80-AEB TD04HL-15T; Loads of rewiring!

[ChrisAudi80]

If I recall correctly, you can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and holding the + / - terminals together for 10 seconds.

Thanks, but I was just too quick to the draw.

I loaded a previous table with 20% sensitivity and it spooled just fine. There was still a little bit of a stumble when going in to boost, so I reduced it to 15% and upped the DC to 60%. Runs like a champ now! I have to limit boost to 14psi, because the clutch slips at times.

Clutch upgrade is next. I have had to order the pilot bearing online because these are not available here.

So, to look at the list again:
-200chp or so. DONE, I think
-A left side seat belt that is usable. OPEN, dammit.
-New paint. DONE.
-Recovered door panels and rear seat. DONE.
-FMIC. DONE.
-New front discs (stock AEB) and good pads. OPEN.

Oh, I finally got a good alignment done! Finally tracks straight. My buddy (mentor) found a real good alignment shop out in the sticks, purely by chance. Right in a Muslim neighborhood, close to where they arrested some of the people involved with the recent bombing in Bangkok...
Cool guys though, who are really in to classic cars. They had a pre-war Fiat there. Rare as anything.

Video coming soon...
This thing is so much fun now.

[ChrisAudi80]

Noticed a slight oil leak at the joint between bellhousing and block yesterday while changing the oil. Looks like the rear main seal is leaky. Might be a reason the clutch slips sometimes.

Sigh. More stuff to replace.

I have been recommended to go 8 puck clutch instead of full face when upgrading the clutch.
Ideas?

[loxxrider]

That's bad advice in my opinion. A full-faced clutch will give much better driveability and will hold almost any amount of power when selected properly. Go Southbend full-face and never look back!

[DE80q]

I'm with Chris on this one. I have a spec Stg3 6 puck in my 80q, and it is very on/off. I'm thinking when I install my 01E I will be getting a full face to put in.

[ChrisAudi80]

Yeah, that is what I thought. I will get the clutch done locally as importing one is way out of my budget. Its 200 bucks local.
Importing one would be more than double.

Full face it is.

[Peters]

That's bad advice in my opinion. A full-faced clutch will give much better driveability and will hold almost any amount of power when selected properly. Go Southbend full-face and never look back!

I went from a Southbound full face to a Spec puck style used spare to minimize down time.
The Southbend friction surface had failed (and to their credit, Southbend replaced it free) but to minimize down time, I had a low mileage spec ferro ceramic puck style clutch installed. Going from a full stop into first gear is never smooth, regardless of how much I feather the clutch. Lesson learned, will never install a puck style in the future.

[ChrisAudi80]

Dropped the FW and clutch package off at the shop today.
My trans has code DJJ, BTW. According to the manual it has final drive 3.889, but it should be 4.111. The rear diff is 4.111, so it must be true.

The new friction discs will be swapped over onto the original disc. This shop is used by all the local diesel drag truck guys. Friend of mine has used them before for his AEB and vouches for them.
Surfaces will be cleaned. Oil all over the bellhousing due to leaky rear main seal. The TO and pilot bearing will be replaced, too.
Some pics.

[mushasho]

Check that input shaft seal as well...

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[ChrisAudi80]

Check that input shaft seal as well...

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I did today while cleaning up the gunk inside the bellhousing. Looks OK.

[ChrisAudi80]

Clutch was done sooner than expected. It is being put in today.

However, we found out that one of the drive shaft CV joints was bad. The rubber sleeve was gone and the CV almost dry! Managed to find another.

Also found out for sure that I don't have 4.111 final drive at all. Its 3.889. Trans code DJJ, rear diff code DAJ.

Tomorrow:

Now: Pics

[ChrisAudi80]

After driving a few days, it is clear I needed a new clutch.

Pedal is lighter, no more slippage, but a very slight judder on engagement from stand still. If I rev up to 1000-1200, no judder.

Next up is increasing the boost to 16psi again and see what happens. I did put the old 710 DV back in. The Chinese copy adjustable BPV was not working properly. The O ring for the piston was clipped. I have no spare. NM, I will just use the stocker for now and get a 710n in the future.

[ChrisAudi80]

Boost is back to 16psi. Its nice but not much different from 14psi.

I have switched back to the 630s because the 440s are now in the S6 because of switching that to E85.

[ChrisAudi80]

Clutch is still good, but ran into an issue I think has been going on for a while.
The MAP sensor in the MAP ECU3 is going bad. When switching on the ignition, the display shows -7.6inHg, not 0. It was -5 or so before, but I disregarded it. Now, it won't build boost because the sensor does not see 1psi. So, back to stock boost

Told the MAP ECU guys. They said the sensor is probably bad. Not only that, it's probably not linear anymore either...

I have 3 options:
1. Replace MAP sensor, cost unknown. Soldering a hassle.
2. Get an external MAP sensor, but need a small harness from MAP ECU. Cost: approx 100 total. No hassle.
3. Fuck all that shit and put in the VEMS ECU and wiring harness I already have. Cost: 0, but a lot of blood, sweat and tears.

I am leaning towards 3. Need to get the IAC wires into the TB plug and some other wiring stuff.

I have two connectors that looks like they are for a more modern version of the 1.8T. The harness has no provision for the N80 valve or knock sensors. The connector for the CLT sensor is different from the AEB and I have one connector I am not sure what it does.
Hmm. I can post pictures later.

[ChrisAudi80]

Decided to go for option 2. Cost turned out to be less than 40 bux. The GM style 3 bar MAP sensor is on the way and the stupid plug connector I need to connect it to the MAP ECU. If I bought the plugin harness from MAP ECU it would have cost me 75 bucks!! F that. Finally found the right plug, I think.

I am unsure now what to do with the VEMS harness. I am starting to think it would require so much rewiring that I might have to approach Marc to see if some kind of trade can be made. Send him the harness I have for an AEB PnP harness or something...

[ChrisAudi80]

Some small updates.

Got new tires yesterday. Yokohama E70s, 205/55/16. Nothing special, but quiet.
Also, new rear wheel bearings. Been wanting to do that for a long time. SO nice.
However, while at the shop, I noticed the front drive belt had split. I could see damage on the fins of the crankpulley. We thought about filing down the damage, but they said they had a spare laying around which I could have for very little, like 10-15 bucks.

Today I installed an external 3bar MAP sensor for the MAP ECU and swapped in a 2.5bar FPR. I hope with this combo it will be more tunable. The 4bar FPR made tuning idle a little difficult. The pulse width was just to short I think with 630s and 4bar.

[DE80q]

Why drop 1.5bar in fuel pressure? Was a 3bar not available?

[ChrisAudi80]

Why drop 1.5bar in fuel pressure? Was a 3bar not available?

I have a 3bar, but with a 2.5bar I get slightly more pulse width. 630s are still big for a stock AEB, even with E85. My name is not Marc Swanson.
Besides, I wanted to try it just for fun. The engine seems to like it. I had the fuel almost spot on at the start with this FPR.

[ChrisAudi80]

While doing the timing belt service, I ran into another issue. Leaking rad. Not the end tanks, but still wanted to replace it.
Turns out getting a custom made all alloy rad made here is cheaper than a Nissen replacement rad with plastic end tanks.
Installed a catch can, too.

From now I am going to focus more on handling. It does not have the optimal set up now, but I should be able to improve it.
I have Weitec springs (-40mm) and KW shocks in the front and the stock B5 1.8T sport springs and shocks in the back. Getting a dedicated spring and shock set (never mind coil-overs) for this car right now is out of budget.

However, since this car was a 4 cylinder, it did not come with a strut bar like most V6s. I have a spare C4 strut bar and will probably just get some brackets fabbed up and welded in. That should help some. This car does still roll a bit in cornering. I can also turn the wheel quickly about 20 degrees off center while still going straight.

After that, it might be a good idea to replace the old control arm and sway bar bushings all around. If Jared H. goes ahead and makes a full set for the B4, I will go for that.

Now, ball joint extenders. A buddy of mine here has had some proper ball joint extenders fabbed up for his lowered UrS4. As far as I can tell, B4 ball joints are also 19mm. My front control arms do point up a little. Worth it?

[ChrisAudi80]

Have not updated in a while. Its running OK. Still no VEMS swap, but I am ready for it. Got all the small parts. Just need the TIME! So busy lately.

New custom alu rad has been working real well. It cools so well, I see a 10c drop in heavy rain.
Saturday I will get a new driveshaft support bearing. The old one is juddering at times and there is a lot of movement.

On the the 25th the car will go to a suspension shop for a custom coil over set up. The shop will use Monroe springs and shocks. Should help a lot with handling. I never got the ball joint extenders and probably won't need them after the coil overs are at the right height.
EDIT: Forgot to add the front/rear weights. With driver and full tank: Front 847kg, rear 675kg. Not too bad.

Anybody ever use the AL strut mounts from AK motorsport on their B3/B4?

[ChrisAudi80]

Picked up the car from the suspension shop today!

It now has custom Monroe coil overs. Don't know the exact specs. The ride is firm, but not harsh. A tad higher than before. Way better than the mismatched set up I had before (Weitec springs and KW shocks front, stock B5Q sport springs and shocks rear).
I post a side view picture later. Forgot to take that.

Pics.

[ChrisAudi80]

Some more pictures.

[ChrisAudi80]

Been working on making a EconoSeal to Motronic adapter. The Jake W adapter sheet has been very helpful. Making it was fun. Got a lot of help from my teacher/buddy Kot.

Decided that having to route through the firewall a fully terminated harness meant for a VW 1.8T was too much hassle. I did have to go through the harness to check the pin out. That was very educational.

So now I have to try and sell a very nice Lugtronic-made VEMS harness for a 1.8T.

I know the dust plugs are not all the way in, but the wire was just a little too thick. I will have to route the wideband harness through later. I also have an EGT probe I will wire in.

The car is now back to stock power (besides the AAN injectors and E85), no more piggyback. Its soooo slow now.

A picture

[ChrisAudi80]

So, after a few days I have gotten the car running on VEMS. It wasn't too bad with some help from Kot.
Learned a lot in this time. I drove it to work today and made a log. It seems to run and idle just fine without IAC and AC on, which is awesome.
We tried to use the IAC integrated in the AEB TB, but it was a mess.

An issue I have now is that on a small, quick tap on the gas pedal, the revs shoot up to 3000 or so then slowly come down. If I free rev to 2500 hold it a little then let off, it drops normal down to idle.

I still need to fine tune the VE table, but that's coming along. I have attached log and config.

Any input would be appreciated.

[ChrisAudi80]

More VE tuning today. Quite successful. I was a dumbass yesterday and didn't turn off the IAC. No more revs shooting up today.

Had to add a few more rows for low revs to get some more idle resolution. Seemed to work OK. Another small issue is that with AC on the motor only gets to 70c, never 90. My rad is is too good.
Next, study some more about acceleration enrichment...

Latest config attached.

[ChrisAudi80]

Actually, when it comes to the CLT, it's probably because the thermostat is sticking open a little.
Turned off the IAC this morning. No more shooting revs. Idles steady at 670rpm with AC on, 900 off. Only a rarel stall with AC on.

Boost control next.