The Project Pad

amd is the best wrote:

chaloux wrote:

amd is the best wrote:What compression ratio?

8.5:1. Boooooooost. I'm hoping to get it to Brady before Carlisle, but if not I might get some knock phones from Marc to do a little timing work myself.

Soooo pansy . I <3 compression! 9.5 or 10 for my build...whenever it happens.

10:1 or bust!

Honestly, if E85 goes away I will just buy 55gal drums of ethanol.

ringbearer wrote:I agree with you on the availability of E85 in the long run, I don't have any close to me so it's not an issue for me but many people will be bummed when the price goes up and it gets harder to find. You know like when your dealer gets busted

LOL, yeah, just like that

EDIGREG wrote:Honestly, if E85 goes away I will just buy 55gal drums of ethanol.

Luckily, the midwest does have a lot of corn gas stations... if not, start running on skol vodka

With all the work in the motor, clean up the manifold! It'll take you a couple hours, and now is the time to do it!

Also, you'd be surprised what the local Home Depot Paint stripper is capable of! I used the gel type stuff (paint on) on my entire 4000 and it came off really nicely. Where you can't use a razor, use a wire wheel. Just make sure you have eye protection and no bare skin. Stuff kinda burns when it gets on bare skin!

chaloux wrote:I kind of see e85 as a short term thing. I don't think it's going to be around for too long - the subsidies are already stopping. How long before it's more expensive than gas, and then how long before it stops being sold because the idea that it's not green catches on? I'd like to still be driving this thing in ten years or so with the same setup I have now/will have soon.

The government subsidies in the USA stopped Jan 1 2012. The last year has been free market trade. Ethanol isn't going anywhere, and I think they will bump up all gas to e15 minimum by the years end in the USA

Hank wrote:The government subsidies in the USA stopped Jan 1 2012. The last year has been free market trade. Ethanol isn't going anywhere, and I think they will bump up all gas to e15 minimum by the years end in the USA

Yep, there have been zero effects since the subsidies stopped, at least from a consumer perspective.

I wish we had E85 where I live.

The output has actually increased since the subsidies stopped. I predict e30 by 2016 in all stations across the nation. People that hate it better start learning to love it. E30 has enough octane and cooling effect to negate the loss of BTU content. Engines and software must be setup for it obviously, but TE would increase enough to negate BTU loss.

Those that don't think it is worth the effort of upgrading fuel lines have never run it. It is literally the crack cocaine of automotive fuels. It is a gateway drug into running silly amounts of boost and getting bigger turbochargers to support the habit.

I am Hank and I approve this message!!

I dont have it close to me either but I'm going to use it because its too awesome not to. 55 gal drums and flex fuel here I come.

Engine sans head is in! Got the rad hooked up, some electrical for the dash and alternator and other misc stuff. Degreased everything again, holy mother of god... there was a lot of oil in there. I could've driven in the winter for years and the car wouldn't have known any different

I also fixed the wobbly suspension issue. Turns out the driver's side lower ball joint wasn't really tightened. The whole coilover was able to move in and out about two inches, but you really had to give'r to get it to do that. Yikes. Guessed on the position, tightened it all up, and bingo bango bongo, no more sloppiness.

back where it belongs!


is this good enough for you guys?


Plasti-dip red. Ed, you must be in heaven....



As I said, I'd run E85, but I'd probably use it to push the max the fuel system allows (ie 450whp? ish) with as early boost onset as possible. If it was available here I'd probably have a whole different attitude. Since I'm limited to 94 octane I'll run it and shoot for high 20s boost-wise. My turbo with the .63A/R won't like to boost like snot right now anyway. With the GTX wheel I'm not sure what to expect. Perhaps a bit better spool (according to this, but I think my hotside is already going to be pushed.

Anyway... I WANT TO DRIVE DIS TING. So clean and sexy and close AND good weather... ugh.

Looking good Matt! I know the excitement thing and just wanting to get in and drive. I'm the same way!

The intake looks much more acceptable now too, though I wouldn't have coated the bracket

Can't wait to see this thing under its new owner and condition! Carlisle and S-fest, woot!

amd is the best wrote:Looking good Matt! I know the excitement thing and just wanting to get in and drive. I'm the same way!

The intake looks much more acceptable now too, though I wouldn't have coated the bracket

Can't wait to see this thing under its new owner and condition! Carlisle and S-fest, woot!

I was debating taking it off, and decided I didn't give a shit lol. But I can just peel it off when it's dried Also I wasn't sure about red (dirt, grease, etc.) but again, if it looks like crap I can just peel it all off.

chaloux wrote:

amd is the best wrote:Looking good Matt! I know the excitement thing and just wanting to get in and drive. I'm the same way!

The intake looks much more acceptable now too, though I wouldn't have coated the bracket

Can't wait to see this thing under its new owner and condition! Carlisle and S-fest, woot!

I was debating taking it off, and decided I didn't give a shit lol. But I can just peel it off when it's dried Also I wasn't sure about red (dirt, grease, etc.) but again, if it looks like crap I can just peel it all off.

How well does plastidip handle heat? I've never used the stuff.

No idea, I'm about to find out.

chaloux wrote:No idea, I'm about to find out.

Looks way better!

yeah plastidip is not a good choice for the IM... but it does look a lot better

I just read that it's good to 312F. Saw quite a few others using it in the engine bay without too many problems, but we'll see.

So when dad and I were putting the head together, we noticed that there was no cam position sensor. I had to steal one off of the parts car. So was the 4k running with wasted spark then? I'd assume it was, I really didn't get into the IIc enough to know WTF was going on or how Mike had set it up. Plus the removal of the harness right away as well, etc...

Anyway, on to the 60-2 crank trigger questions/info. I noticed a few weird things - the 60-2 wheel was a bit loose on the pulley, so I inspected. A few of the minuscule screws were broken off inside the crank pulley so I removed the good ones and re-positioned it, and it's now nice and solid, no sloppiness. Is this going to mess anything up? Does the wheel need to be in a specific spot in relation to TDC for VEMS? Or is VEMS happy as long as it knows where the -2 is and where the CPS is? I don't want to get to the point of firing it up and being effed over.

Other random things going on - the alternator pulley was a bit weird and loose as well, despite the nut being very tight. So I pulled it apart and saw that the tooth indents to keep the fan and pulley in place were both worn and kinda reamed out. Thankfully there are two of them, 180* apart. I flipped them around and got it tightened down right, something was keeping it from actually tightening before, a washer hitting on the tooth perhaps. Anyway, it's ALSO nice and solid now. I hope the car is going to be happy when I'm done with it

chaloux wrote:So when dad and I were putting the head together, we noticed that there was no cam position sensor. I had to steal one off of the parts car. So was the 4k running with wasted spark then? I'd assume it was, I really didn't get into the IIc enough to know WTF was going on or how Mike had set it up. Plus the removal of the harness right away as well, etc...

Anyway, on to the 60-2 crank trigger questions/info. I noticed a few weird things - the 60-2 wheel was a bit loose on the pulley, so I inspected. A few of the minuscule screws were broken off inside the crank pulley so I removed the good ones and re-positioned it, and it's now nice and solid, no sloppiness. Is this going to mess anything up?

it can be adjusted in the software. "TDC after the trigger".

Does the wheel need to be in a specific spot in relation to TDC for VEMS? Or is VEMS happy as long as it knows where the -2 is and where the CPS is? I don't want to get to the point of firing it up and being effed over.

Other random things going on - the alternator pulley was a bit weird and loose as well, despite the nut being very tight. So I pulled it apart and saw that the tooth indents to keep the fan and pulley in place were both worn and kinda reamed out. Thankfully there are two of them, 180* apart. I flipped them around and got it tightened down right, something was keeping it from actually tightening before, a washer hitting on the tooth perhaps. Anyway, it's ALSO nice and solid now. I hope the car is going to be happy when I'm done with it

you had asked earlier about hooking up the 60-2 to your vems. yep, can be done on an audi PnP box, but we do need to make one small hardware change inside. I misunderstood you when we talked last, I thought I heard you say you were going to use the stock audi triggers otherwise I would have mentioned how to do it while you had the box apart already.

The procedure involves removing a solder jumper from inside the board. I'll come up with some illustrations for you tomorrow when I'm in the office.

Alright sounds good. Opening it up again isn't a problem, it's just sitting there on the carpet at the moment.

Oh, do you mind if I post the how-to for the drivers in the VEMS section? Might save you some repetitive typing...

All it needs now is WHITE WHEELS!!!

Haha, maybe I'll plastidip the borbets white...

Is the only option for an m18x1.5 barbed fitting eBay? Looks like I can get either 15mm or 3/8 barbed - for $20! Have to check the hose size on the 4k. I'd ideally like one fitting, not an x an x whatever.