DE80q wrote:Sorry, no oil pans.

Well, worth the ask, thanks!

Any 7A/AAN oil pans/windage trays?

Anyways, the k26 isn't a bad turbo, it just isn't as fast to spool. Before my manifold cracked again, I was hitting 22psi before 3krpm on my k24. That will be one thing you will want to check for sure. These manifolds are known for cracking. Even the 2 piece manifolds tend to crack at the collector ...

Well Dave, just read through all 32 pages as I'm on some of the same journey. Just picked up an '88 90Q with a 20vt swapped in. It's definitely going to need some upgrades as it's currently on a cobbled together CIS setup. I ordered an EMU Black, not an MS, but I imagine it will be a similar setup ...

Jim, are you using the stock oil pump? I'd thought you were going to a dry sump?

Don't know if you follow the Fabrication Series on FB (and Youtube), Jim but you should go have a look if not. Justin goes into a fair amount of detail on how to properly build cages (and by extension roll bars). He also just bought a new bender (RogueFab Model 600) and loves it... and that's coming ...

That's about what I thought. I have considered the possibility of just welding nuts on teh studs too to back them out but the machine shop thinks they'll just snap

We considered that as well and came to the same conclusion. As it turned out I'm certain we were correct on that as well. There was ...

Apparently the Italians had a thing for close tolerance head studs that corrode in place...

A few years back we had a Ferrari 330 come into the shop I worked in for an engine overhaul. Our lead tech spent a good day trying to get the heads off with zero success. Being the shop machinist guy, I got ...

You would want a thermoset plastic for that, probably fiber re-enforced. The hobby 3D printers are mostly thermoplastic which means they can be re-molded with heat.

I can do the fab myself, just thought this might be fun to try. Guess I'll just break out the mill/lathe/welder when the project ...

Ok, throw out some things you guys have printed just because you had a 3d printer in the corner. I am trying to convince myself not to buy one.

We're in the same boat Jim, I keep looking at the 07K and thinking "You know, the plastic water outlets aren't really right for my project" and then ...

335 turbo 6 style motor. They are known to fail every 40-50k miles. I keep a good used spare in the trunk that I picked up for real cheap. I figure any electric water pump is going to have similar lifespan. I have not figured out the speed control yet, it doesn't respond to PWM like the older BMW ...

Lol never mind on the water pump... I made it backwards to about page 99 and saw you were running a BMW electric pump. Didn't see if/where you said which BMW it was from though.

Yeah, from Issam. It's easy for me to convert to 6-rib since I only have an alternator to drive. I have a TT-RS pulley that is spoken for, but I do need to sell it. They are fluidamper style as well, but originally designed for half my HP. Given the recent events, I am doing everything within ...

audifreakjim wrote: Fluidamper is supposed to be here this week.

From Issam? I'll be interested to see how that works as the pulley on the front of my engine is less than pretty and I was thinking of getting the TT-RS version anyway.

^ lol this is what happens when I don't look at my notes. 02A/J are the stock 5 speeds.

I did a bunch more looking around and found a couple people that had done this. Appears it's not a big deal from a flywheel/pp outlook which was my main concern, they just used the flywheel/pp from the GTI on ...

The six speed swap is fairly common with the VW guys, I think its a direct bolt up.

The auto o7k has spacers bolted to the crank. I believe the engine its self is the same

There are two different 6 speeds though, the 02A/J and the 02Q... 02A/J came in the higher option regular Jetta/Golf/etc and ...

So in looking for engines for my project I'm seeing a ton of them from automatic equipped cars (no surprise, really). Are there any differences in the rear of the crank between the manual and auto early 07K engines? Any other differences between manual/auto engines to watch out for?

Also (and I ...

If I post all the pics I have I'll fill a couple pages so here goes with a list (in approximate order of purchase) with a few comments.

Age: 53
# of vehicles owned: 41 cars, 1 truck, 1 motorhome, 1 open-wheel formula car, 1 Sprint Kart
# of vehicles currently owned: 3 cars, 1 truck

History:

1) 72 ...

I've seen lifter bores that were damaged bored oversized and sleeved... possible? Would save you a ton of money if so.

I think a buddy of mine has a brand new one sitting around... I'll ask and let you know.

Knowing me that will probably happen but not until I get the larger brakes on and sort out the suspension.

So on the way home from doing all the above work... the heater core failed. Sigh.

Replaced the core (not too bad compared to B3's and B5's). It's been running great the past few weeks, so I popped in the IA 3+ ECU and adjusted the wastegate per the instructions. Got a little bit of misfire @20+ psi ...

I have an older Fidanza 7A LWFW and it has the pin. Kept it when I sold the 90Q, so it will go into the UrS at some point in the future.

The 7A and AAN flywheels are interchangeable on the AAN if you use the correct clutch. Neither needs the spacer for a 6spd 01E in an UrS. That's all been done a ton of times.

What I was curious about is whether the group buy Fidanza flywheels are 7A dimensions or AAN dimensions as they're different ...

Are the 7A/AAN Fidanza flywheels the same? The OEM flywheels aren't so I'm curious which OEM flywheel the Fidanza matches.