I'm not really sure where the limit is for needing/not needing on is. I know its certainly higher than what I'm aiming for which is only around 600-700awhp with a 9,500rpm redline, but even at that I'm sure it's not needed. I don't even think Jeff Gerner has one in his UrS4 which makes way more ...

This has been dead for nearly 3 years now. Things have been weird in that time. But things are starting to get back on track with this project. It'll still be slow going, but I've found time to make some progress forward on the engine side of things.

I most recently got to work on a block girdle ...

I'd be interested in one.

I sold my EFR a while back, but kept these just in case I maybe decided to go that route on something. That wont be happening so these are for sale.

1 EFR Vband inlet flange and clamp
1 EFR Vband outlet flange to accept a 3.5" downpipe and clamp.

The outlet flange needs a little work on a lathe ...

SOLD

PM'd

Bump, pics added

Back up for sale, even though it kills me. This turbo will not do what I need it to in the long run.

Yes, but it will make it very high.. Realistically too high for a road car in my opinion. For instance this crank having a 9mm shorter stroke overall will need a rod that's 4.5mm longer which would be a 148.5mm rod using pistons with the standard 32.8mm compression height. That yields a 1.92 rod ...

The slot should be the same the whole way across, otherwise the benefit of the dual plenum is somewhat lost. I'm very very excited to see that manifold come together though. Before I came across my cast plenum I was going to make one. Certainly an intricate piece to make, so hats off to you!

Oh heck yeah. Pat this is sick. looking forward to updates on this. And did you have access to that milling machine to cut that flange yourself? It looks awesome.

My cousin came through for Christmas this year and found a 77.4mm stroke crank out of a 1.9l WN/WH code block (basis for the works aluminum blocks) so now I'm on track again for destroking this thing like I wanted to originally. So final bore and stroke for the engine will be 82mm x 77.4mm.

https ...

This build is great. Love seeing the new stuff you've done.
Thanks man! It's coming along slower than I'd like. I have to get used to being an adult and having a house to pay for/fix/maintain instead of just playing race car lol.

I recently built a car port off my garage so I can put my Case 310 ...

Fushion360 is a great program. I actually have the base flange for the flange for the intake drawn out on 360.

Anyway, 1.25" pipe as others have said ought to be enough. Especially considering 1.25" schedule 10 pipe has an ID of like 1.44" which is not limiting at all!

bradyzq wrote:Very cool project!

You don't want boost going to the diff lock though!

True that! I never even thought of that aspect of things, so thank you for the reality check on that. I'm used to the car just being N/A where it everything gets it's vacuum from the engine.

Little more progress. I had some left over tubing from the intake divider tube the other day so I decided to make a vacuum tank that hooks up to the ITB vacuum manifold so I have vacuum hook ups for things like the ECU, the rear diff lock, fuel pressure regulator, ect.

I probably have way more ...

Thanks guys! I'm happy with how it came out. Hopefully I can start making more progress with it sooner than later, but until I get a roof on my barn it will be kinda slow. I've actually been working with my friend who originally wanted to help me cast the adapter for the ITBs and I've decided to ...

I finally got around to making the divider tube for the intake plenum. I guess that's what you'd call it. I was initially having a hard time determining how I was going to measure out my cuts for the two bends. I used a little bit of eye balling for measuring, but ultimately Dustin suggested I get ...

How do you plan on attached that shift arm to the transmission now?
Genuinely curious as my v8 shift bushing is absolutely obliterated and I be that's gonna shift fantastic.

I'm sorry I forgot to take pictures in the process! Also, I actually had to redo all of the because the first attempt left ...

Did you happen to have the parts lying around or did you order them specifically?

I ordered the parts specifically. And like I said I kinda had to redo everything and I ended up getting rid of that spherical bearing and the cup I welded in place.

But total for the parts that would make it right ...

How do you plan on attached that shift arm to the transmission now?
Genuinely curious as my v8 shift bushing is absolutely obliterated and I be that's gonna shift fantastic.

I'm sorry I forgot to take pictures in the process! Also, I actually had to redo all of the because the first attempt left ...

No real progress as of late. been super busy, but recently had some time to work on the car/engine.

Firstly, the 034 shift bushing took a dump and it was nearly impossible to get the car into gear and has been for a while now. I decided to fix it permanently.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com ...

SOLD.

I think that looks fantastic. A real nice and tidy package. Also curious as to where you got the wastegate flange or if it was made. I can't find one state side for the manifold I'm building.

Car is looking great man! Also, Jim is right. You've got a little too much heat in that. I struggled with stainless for a while and once I figured it out it's been easy since. Stainless is as much about the right amount of amps as it is about the right amount of speed. The slower you move the hotter ...