'84 Audi Coupe Gt grp2

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More

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Some more

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And then there was more

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and so on

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couple more

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I’m done.

[[sTeeWie]]

A very interesting project

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A very interesting project

Thanks!!

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Decided to do the passenger side the same way. Started to realize that I needed to let the hole saw do the work, slow and steady wins the race. At least with the Harbor Freight tube notcher that is. Vibration, drill rotation and feed rate all play a factor in making a tight fit. If your tube is 4ft long and your feed rate is fast the vibration will cause the tube to bounce, tube notcher to flex and the rotation of the drill cause the tube to back itself out of the tube notcher clamp. If you do it enough times you’ll understand.
Thanks for look’n.

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Passenger side

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Passenger side

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Passenger
side

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Pass
enger
side

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Passenger side doesn’t protrude into the door as much as driver side.

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Fitment

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End result should look something like so.
✌️

[FFF]

Looking great, I’d have to wait until I retire to even think about taking on something so significant!!

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Thanks!! Retirement, what’s that??? No job right now, it’s a blessings in disguise??? Couldn’t imagine doing this in my 60’s! If I had my act together when I was younger maybe I could have retired at 35 but I’m well past that point.
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Front fire wall attaching points. I was going to attach at the strut towers, but ITB rules say roll cage attaching points need to be in the drivers compartment. I got some holes to cover up. All attaching point base plates can be no less than 6 square inches. Not a whole lot of clean metal at the front fire wall so yeah things look like crap. I didn’t use a torch to burn off impurities because I thought while getting the torch in place the flame would melt things so I used yellow can of map gas, scraped and cleaned the best I could.

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Over head diagonal tube. Things are starting to get tricky! In order to get this tube in place I had to remove material to get it in place and then persuade it in to place. I choose not to do an X because it would not give enough clearance for my head. Yes, I should have put a bend in the tube to get it closer to the roof line but but I was not thinking. Shoulda could’a woulda.

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At the point where I should start welding things up. Put some really good tac welds to hold things in place before disassembling some of the cage to drop it down to get to the top joints. I was concerned that I was not going to be able to manipulate the main hoop into the holes with the overhead diagonal tube in place but it worked out. The cage can drop down 12+”. During the mock up process of the cage (bending, notching, grinding) all kinds of crap is getting inside the tube. So clean the inside of the tube!!! I used acetone in a non-aerosol sprayer. I would also encourage you to soak a rag in acetone and push it threw the tube because I’m getting porosity in areas where the crap didn’t get washed out. What ever is in the tube heats up and the gas wants to escape out the weld creating stalagmite/stalactite or it could be that my gun angle is not at +/-90’. The angle gets to steep so the shielding gas blows past the weld puddle. I go to clean the weld up and it just opens up a can of worm holes. Could be number of thing that I’m not aware of, so If you any ideas shoot’m my way. Thanks.
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[FFF]

Coming along nicely!


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Thank you!

[audifreakjim]

I had the same problem welding my roll bar! I'd do 90% of the joint, then hit a spot that just would not weld. Took lots of passes with the TIG before I was happy with it. I figured it was also the lube on the inside of the bar. Which was really hard to clean out.

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Well I think I found my problem. I bought a new regulator for my tank and didn’t pay attention to the low pressure gauge. I adjusted it to 25cfh not noticing the percentages on the inner radius, so it was like at 50cfh. My old one only had one set of percentages.
Practiced a little bit and things seem to calm down. We will see.