The 20vt Quantum Syncro Wagon - The Group B Grocery Getter

[dougkehl]

Did you happen to have the parts lying around or did you order them specifically?

I ordered the parts specifically. And like I said I kinda had to redo everything and I ended up getting rid of that spherical bearing and the cup I welded in place.

But total for the parts that would make it right are the cost of the 3/8" bolt, nut and washer, the cost of a high misalignment rod end from McMaster Carr, part number 6960T1 and a 3/8" ID 1/2" OD sleeve which came to like $30.

I'll try and grab some pictures of how I did everything, not that it's rocket science.. But a picture is worth 1000 words sometimes.

[dougkehl]

How do you plan on attached that shift arm to the transmission now?
Genuinely curious as my v8 shift bushing is absolutely obliterated and I be that's gonna shift fantastic.

I'm sorry I forgot to take pictures in the process! Also, I actually had to redo all of the because the first attempt left me with not enough angle to get into reverse and 2nd.. I'll take a few pictures of that and the arm that goes on the selector shaft.

But how I attached it to the trans was I cut the head of the riveted ball off the arm that attaches onto the selector shaft on the transmission and beat it out of the arm. Then I was left with an 8mm hole which I drilled to 3/8" and took a 3/8" x 2" allen bolt and ground the head down to a low enough profile to clear the transmission and then I brazed it in place on the arm.

It works like a charm. This car shifts better than it ever did with that piece of crap bushing in there.. even when the bushing was new, this new set up has it covered by a country mile in terms of crispness, feel and accuracy.

Did you happen to have the parts lying around or did you order them specifically?

finally got some pictures of it, unfortunately the rod is in the car so you can't see everything well. here was what I ended up having to do.. so i did all that nice work with the replaceable spherical bearing only to find there was no way for me to get the correct amount of throw.. the bearing simply could not accept the angle needed for 2nd and reverse.

so i took a regular 1/2" rod end and widdled the shank down a bit cut some bits off the selector rod and welded it in place which you can't see on the pics. welding it was tricky because this rod end has a ptfe liner, but i managed to save it. overall it's not the prettiest, but god damn does this car shift smooth and precisely.

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[90quattrocoupe]

I can't see it from my house, so it must look good.

Greg W.

[dougkehl]

I finally got around to making the divider tube for the intake plenum. I guess that's what you'd call it. I was initially having a hard time determining how I was going to measure out my cuts for the two bends. I used a little bit of eye balling for measuring, but ultimately Dustin suggested I get the book Ordinates For 1000 Pipe Intersections off amazon for a whopping $6 and that made the difference for sure.

This was my first attempt with the only two 180 degree bends that I had. Overall I'm pretty happy. Most of the welds aren't the prettiest, but they should be plenty strong as I really pounded the filler with plenty of heat in there. I also heated the crap out of the plenum casting to ensure good penetration.

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[Afterthought]

Duuude... that looks so awesome ! Like amazing .
I got the same book per Dustin’s recommendation , I just need to learn how to apply it now


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[PRY4SNO]

Happy to help!! Wish I could have done more, but sometimes all a guy needs is pointed in the right direction. For a first stab that looks deadly!

Pat, think of the ordinates as co-ordinates around the outer diameter of the pipe, should look like a bar graph. The middle will be the deepest, and it will be a mirror image off centre, tapering down to the edges. Draw it out on paper using a straight edge, then wrap it around the pipe with masking tape (keep square to the land/beveled edge) if you're having a tough time visualizing it for layout. Works great for templating a saddle using a punch, saves fiddling around with a tape measure and marker. Then it's cake to grind/cut down to your punch marks and all's left is to repeat on the other fitting and glue them together. PM me if you (or anyone else) want to chat in more detail, don't want to derail an epic build thread.

[FFF]

Looks great!


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[dougkehl]

Thanks guys! I'm happy with how it came out. Hopefully I can start making more progress with it sooner than later, but until I get a roof on my barn it will be kinda slow. I've actually been working with my friend who originally wanted to help me cast the adapter for the ITBs and I've decided to move forward with it again. So chances are the next real update will be a completely one-off cast manifold that the ITBs will bolt to. Our time has freed up and I've got the design down a lot, lot better and we've also got better resources and a better plan for how to do it. Once that starts I'll be sure to take lots of pictures!

Also, Pat your car is looking absolutely wonderful!!!

[dougkehl]

Little more progress. I had some left over tubing from the intake divider tube the other day so I decided to make a vacuum tank that hooks up to the ITB vacuum manifold so I have vacuum hook ups for things like the ECU, the rear diff lock, fuel pressure regulator, ect.

I probably have way more than enough places to tap into this thing, but I already had all the fittings in box buried on the parts shelf so I figured I'd use them all and plug them if needed.

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This is where I'd like to mount it, but I might give it some more thought.

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[bradyzq]

Very cool project!

You don't want boost going to the diff lock though!

[dougkehl]

Very cool project!

You don't want boost going to the diff lock though!

True that! I never even thought of that aspect of things, so thank you for the reality check on that. I'm used to the car just being N/A where it everything gets it's vacuum from the engine.

[booested4door]

good lord! I wish you sold the shifter setup! need....... killer build.

[pilihp2]

This build is great. Love seeing the new stuff you've done.

[dougkehl]

This build is great. Love seeing the new stuff you've done.

Thanks man! It's coming along slower than I'd like. I have to get used to being an adult and having a house to pay for/fix/maintain instead of just playing race car lol.

I recently built a car port off my garage so I can put my Case 310 crawler out there and the quantum and my mk1 can be transferred from my dad's garage to my garage. It's things like this that keep the project car funds extra low lol.
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good lord! I wish you sold the shifter setup! need....... killer build.

Thanks! And I wish I could have made that version of the shifter work.. The one with the replaceable bearing in it. I need a lathe and I could have massaged the bearing cup and it would have worked perfectly. Granted the one I have now which is just high articulation heim joint/rod end welded to the selector rod works perfectly fine. Better than the factory set up ever did with our without a good bushing in place.

[dougkehl]

My cousin came through for Christmas this year and found a 77.4mm stroke crank out of a 1.9l WN/WH code block (basis for the works aluminum blocks) so now I'm on track again for destroking this thing like I wanted to originally. So final bore and stroke for the engine will be 82mm x 77.4mm.

20190113_211851 by dougkehl1, on Flickr

[90quattrocoupe]

So this will improve your rod ratio?

Greg W.

[dougkehl]

Yes, but it will make it very high.. Realistically too high for a road car in my opinion. For instance this crank having a 9mm shorter stroke overall will need a rod that's 4.5mm longer which would be a 148.5mm rod using pistons with the standard 32.8mm compression height. That yields a 1.92 rod ratio. The rod ratio of a stock AAN is like 1.67 or something so its a bit of a difference. But it's not like this thing is a daily driver so I'm not too concerned with possibly losing some driveability.

[dougkehl]

This has been dead for nearly 3 years now. Things have been weird in that time. But things are starting to get back on track with this project. It'll still be slow going, but I've found time to make some progress forward on the engine side of things.

I most recently got to work on a block girdle and drysump oil pan. Here are some pics from the Bridgeport.

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[PRY4SNO]

Glad to see things progress.

Honest question, I've asked several folks and have yet to get a consistent answer. I know the obvious benefit of the girdle is to prevent flex, but I've yet to hear a hp figure/range where they become necessary/beneficial? When I was building my stroker Hank said there was no need for one, so I didn't bother, but it has me wondering because I'm seeing them pop up on high hp builds lately.

[dougkehl]

I'm not really sure where the limit is for needing/not needing on is. I know its certainly higher than what I'm aiming for which is only around 600-700awhp with a 9,500rpm redline, but even at that I'm sure it's not needed. I don't even think Jeff Gerner has one in his UrS4 which makes way more power than that and spins way higher on the rpm scale.

But either way this was really more about having fun on the bridgeport and making a dry sump oil pan flange with some extra strength. It's technically not a true girdle anyway, at least not in my view because I'm not going to attach it directly to the main caps and studs.

[PRY4SNO]

That's all very good (and relevant) info, thank you.