The 20vt Quantum Syncro Wagon - The Group B Grocery Getter

[the german]

wow, I'm impressed you have that kind of room to play with. What does the steering rack setup in the quantum look like?

[dougkehl]

wow, I'm impressed you have that kind of room to play with. What does the steering rack setup in the quantum look like?

It's similar to a 4000. I'd bet identical. it's been a real long time since I've looked, but I'll have to see. I know there will be fitment issues somewhere along the line once I try to do this. I'm just going to have to work around it, but I know it's doable.

[dougkehl]

So I checked out the steering rack situation on the quantum last night to see how far I could shove the engine back without having to modify the steering rack's location and the answer is not as much as I want. It looks to me that there is maybe 1" - 1.5" max before I'll run into issues with the bell housing touching the rack. So I'll start figuring a solution that I can attempt to implement in the future.

[ringbearer]

Cut the bellhousing? Don’t know how far you can stuff the rack into it before you hit the clutch though

[the german]

yeah that is what I was thinking would be the case. From a weight distribution perspective it's not generally worth the effort unless you can get things back 4-6", but if you need the space up front to fit a radiator that 1.5" may be pretty valuable.

[PRY4SNO]

Easy solution: 07k.

Bang, instant 3" clearance gained.

You're welcome

[dougkehl]

Cut the bellhousing? Don’t know how far you can stuff the rack into it before you hit the clutch though

That's a possibility, but I'm not sure where the clutch will be either. It may not be worth it. I looked at it again. I may try to retrofit a different rack in there. Possibly opt for something a little more responsive than the stock Audi rack.

yeah that is what I was thinking would be the case. From a weight distribution perspective it's not generally worth the effort unless you can get things back 4-6", but if you need the space up front to fit a radiator that 1.5" may be pretty valuable.

Yeah, I mean I'd love to stuff it back that far, but that's more work than my desired 3 inches back. But if I can get it the 3" back then it should provide me with the room to mount a sufficient intercooler and radiator.

Easy solution: 07k.

Bang, instant 3" clearance gained.

You're welcome

Damn you and your good ideas. Even though swapping in an 07k is a pretty extensive process in itself, but it is a way better engine.. Maybe you threw a wrench in everything I had planned

[the german]

Easy solution: 07k.

Bang, instant 3" clearance gained.

You're welcome

Define "easy"....

[dougkehl]

Did a little bit of poking around in the engine compartment. I've determined that the rack itself is not the issue with stuffing the engine back 3 inches. It's the bracket that bolts to the rack that the tie rods bolt to. This picture of a URQ shows what I'm talking about. I've got about 1.5" give or take a little bit before the bell housing will hit that bracket. I think all I need to do is change that up, maybe make a set of tie rods to accommodate that change and then I should be in the clear.

Capture by dougkehl1, on Flickr

[dougkehl]

Started working on the throttle linkage. I figured that the linkage from a set of dual Weber DCOE carbs mounted on it's side would be a good place to start. I just need to make the bracket to hold this in place. I can't decide if I want to weld it in place or make the whole bracket removable from the intake. I'll probably make it removable though.
IMG_9308 by dougkehl1, on Flickr
IMG_9310 by dougkehl1, on Flickr
IMG_9309 by dougkehl1, on Flickr

Also, in far more exciting news than the throttle linkage, I got in contact with Jeff for one of his billet cranks so this engine will be receiving a 77.4mm billet crank from Jeff and likely a set of his pistons. Now I just have to get on the horn with Pauter for a set of rods.

[PRY4SNO]

Bolt-on/removable linkages make the most sense to me.

So you're de-stroking the engine? For higher revs, similar to what Chris/dramarider intends?

[dougkehl]

Yes, destroking for higher revs and because for some reason since I got the car I wanted to go the opposite way from most who opt to go to 2.5L and drop it down to 2.0L. But at first I think this thing will only be turning 8300 to 8500 or so rpm.. I know the stock oil pump can flow well enough up to that point. I'm not fully prepared to go with a dry sump oil set up yet, but I figure if I build everything accordingly it will then only be a matter of making the dry sump oil system fit into the car.

[dougkehl]

I've made no significant progress with anything related to the project lately. But I do have some updates. One I decided to forgo the crank from Jeff. The more I think about it the more it's not worth spending the $3300 it costs for one, especially when the factory crank is forged and perfectly strong and up to the task. And two, I picked up an 01E 6 speed last night for the car. I was going to try to keep the locker, but when life dumps a 6 speed in your lap for $200 you just take it and say okay the car is getting a 6 speed!

[audifreakjim]

Good move on both accounts

[dougkehl]

Yeah in the end it is a much better move. the factory crank is so strong and with the money im not spending on a billet crank i can buy rods pistons and get machine work done to the block as well as get the crank properly balanced.

I also made some progress over the weekend. I got the bracket for the throttle linkage made and made a vacuum manifold for the throttle bodies.



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[dougkehl]

here's a quick video of the linkage.
https://youtu.be/o3rwS4YJK5k

[mrdeye]

Looks good! Are you going to make some kind of bracket to support all of that ITB, intake manifold stuff?? It’s hang’n out there!

[dougkehl]

Looks good! Are you going to make some kind of bracket to support all of that ITB, intake manifold stuff?? It’s hang’n out there!

Thanks! and yes, absolutely! it is a ton of manifold to be hanging like that once the engine is running and vibrating. I may shorten it up a about 2 inches, but even so I'll still give it some sort of brace.

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[dougkehl]

Made a firewall anti-flex bracket over the weekend for the clutch master cylinder as the firewall was flexing so bad it's been noticeably harder to get into gear. I also threw in a new master cylinder last night to accompany the newer slave. Unfortunately I ran out of brake fluid so I couldn't rebleed the system. Hopefully it makes a difference.

I also ordered some 180 degree bends to make the split tube that goes to the top and bottom of the plenum.



And I started looking into throwing a set of Koni Yellows from a 200 quattro in the rear of the car. While the Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX shocks work fine, they are a little tall for the ride height and I have something like ~1.25" of travel before I'm on the already cut bump stop. My springs are only 300lbs in the rear so while the ride is harsher than stock by a lot, I attribute that more to the lack of shock travel and less to the spring rate. The Koni yellows from a 200 are a solid 2 inches shorter than the Eclipse shocks I have in there now so that's a good increase in shock travel. I may even do the same in the front, but have a set for a Mk1 rabbit revalved to suit the much heavier front end, because I feel even my Bilsteins up front are lacking in travel.

[dougkehl]

No real progress as of late. been super busy, but recently had some time to work on the car/engine.

Firstly, the 034 shift bushing took a dump and it was nearly impossible to get the car into gear and has been for a while now. I decided to fix it permanently.


I also worked on the intake manifold or tried to.. I attempted to figure out to to properly measure these bends so I can make accurate cuts so I can tack them together and see how it lines up and then weld it together.. Maybe I've had too many beers.. I'm not sure.

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[pilihp2]

How do you plan on attached that shift arm to the transmission now?
Genuinely curious as my v8 shift bushing is absolutely obliterated and I be that's gonna shift fantastic.

[dougkehl]

How do you plan on attached that shift arm to the transmission now?
Genuinely curious as my v8 shift bushing is absolutely obliterated and I be that's gonna shift fantastic.

I'm sorry I forgot to take pictures in the process! Also, I actually had to redo all of the because the first attempt left me with not enough angle to get into reverse and 2nd.. I'll take a few pictures of that and the arm that goes on the selector shaft.

But how I attached it to the trans was I cut the head of the riveted ball off the arm that attaches onto the selector shaft on the transmission and beat it out of the arm. Then I was left with an 8mm hole which I drilled to 3/8" and took a 3/8" x 2" allen bolt and ground the head down to a low enough profile to clear the transmission and then I brazed it in place on the arm.

It works like a charm. This car shifts better than it ever did with that piece of crap bushing in there.. even when the bushing was new, this new set up has it covered by a country mile in terms of crispness, feel and accuracy.

[Afterthought]

Man that looks awesome . I think Jim green did something similar but his thread is like 2000 pages long I’m not sure how I’d find it.

[Afterthought]

NM I found it . I like looking through his thread anyways .

It’s about 4 pages from the end on my phone. Looks like he did about the same thing you did . I was thinking of doing the same setup myself and I ended up finding the Audi rebuild kit (new ball and cup) so I just went with that for now .

[pilihp2]

How do you plan on attached that shift arm to the transmission now?
Genuinely curious as my v8 shift bushing is absolutely obliterated and I be that's gonna shift fantastic.

I'm sorry I forgot to take pictures in the process! Also, I actually had to redo all of the because the first attempt left me with not enough angle to get into reverse and 2nd.. I'll take a few pictures of that and the arm that goes on the selector shaft.

But how I attached it to the trans was I cut the head of the riveted ball off the arm that attaches onto the selector shaft on the transmission and beat it out of the arm. Then I was left with an 8mm hole which I drilled to 3/8" and took a 3/8" x 2" allen bolt and ground the head down to a low enough profile to clear the transmission and then I brazed it in place on the arm.

It works like a charm. This car shifts better than it ever did with that piece of crap bushing in there.. even when the bushing was new, this new set up has it covered by a country mile in terms of crispness, feel and accuracy.

Did you happen to have the parts lying around or did you order them specifically?