TCombs UrS4: New Radiator, burnt out tail light

[TCombs]

I decided to make a page on here on my new UrS4. Over the past couple months I found a lot of interesting reading on MG.
For those who don't know my name is Tanner, (Phabio14 on MG). Currently work at an Audi/Porsche dealer in my hometown
Have had several Audis in the past., in order:
1989 80Q (First car I bought)
1990 90Q (Parted and grabbed the engine for turbo swap)
2005 A4Q (Traded in the 80Q)
1990 90Q (New DD, GF took A4 to school)
2010 A5Q (A4 finally died at 170k, damage due to oil starvation from PO)
1994 UrS4 (Stolen after two weeks, sold 90Q)

Currently, the seventh Audi I have owned, my DD is another 1994 UrS4.
Link to MG thread: http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=208434

Quick overview:
94' S4
Flew down to FlagStaff, AZ . to pick it up
Emerald Green w/ Ecru interior
Less then 190k on the clock, haven't drove the car all week.
Interior is almost perfect. I would have to say 9.5/10. Normal wear and tear but no rips to speak of, just fading.
Front windshield had small crack, which now grew due to heat/cold.
All the interior bits work. Seat heaters, radio(Little issue but got it resolved) all the switches (i.e windows and locks, although some of the lights for the window switches don't work). The instrument cluster has a few dim lights, have a couple 2w just haven't switched them out. Car came with set of SSR GT3 wheels (Not a fan of them, at all) also came with a set of Oettinger type RE wheels, which I really like just need to get them powder coated.
For my winter set up I grabbed a set of A4 ultra sport wheels (or Audi celebration wheels) paint rattle can black.

As for the rest of the car, from MG
Engine:
-FMIC (Not sure what brand or anything)
-Turbosmart Boost controller
-Coil upgrade (I believe LS2, could be 034)
-Possible Hoppen (mtm) Stage 1 tune
-Samco silicone hoses

Exterior:
-LL Tek front valance.
-Porsche front brakes (993)
-Drilled rear brakes (Not sure on brand of pads)
-Strömung 3" Turbo back exhaust
-Set of Oettinger type RE wheels
-Second set of five SSR GT3 wheels

Interior:
-Euro S2 steering wheel
-Halmeter AF30 Air/Fuel Ratio gauge
-TWM Big Type R shift knob (Metal, burns my hand if it sits in the sun to long)
-Stewart Warner Boost Gauge (Where the stock clock use to be)

Since I bought the car I have done the following:
Changed oil, air filter and all related items
Fixed torn CV boot
Changed shift boot and knob
Swapped radio with the radio from stolen UrS4
Got tail lights and reverse lights to work (connector in rear fender was unplugged)
Fixed front bumper
Euro Tail lights
Got winter set up

I just wanted to start a page on here. Looking to increase the performance of the car here shortly. Already have an EVO RS exhaust manifold, trying to decided what turbo I should go with, but not increase them amount of lag to much, any info/ opinions would be great!
I posted on here not to long ago about a battery drain issue I am having. I was drawing .75 amps when the car was off, found some of the draw and got it down to .35 amps. If the car sits for two days, I'm 50% on if it will start or not.
Warning and an apology in advanced as if and when I post I will probably jump around a lot. I haven't had an UrS long and I am trying to learn as much as I can.
Thanks for any and all input and opinions!
-Tanner

[TCombs]

Added a few pictures to show the car a little more.

[TCombs]

Couple more.

[lorge1989]

My favorite color S4. Looks great!

[TCombs]

Got my Apikol snub today. Buddy of mine hooked me up for xmas. Need to install it soon. Seems pretty straight forward, any tips or tricks to help install it? I have heard it helps to freeze poly, the night before you want to install?

[Nateflix56]

The car looks great on the Otts!

Maybe I missed it, but what is the toggle switch for?

[TCombs]

The car looks great on the Otts!

Maybe I missed it, but what is the toggle switch for?

The switch is to turn the servo steering not assist on and off. The first time I turned it on was a huge surprise. Ha it was like going from no power steering to actually having it, however I just left it off.

[TCombs]

Finally got around to installing my new snub mount. I can't if there is a real difference or not, but I'm sure there is. The old mount wasnt in that bad of shape at all, just wanted to get the blue one in there! Pretty easy to change out. Took three bolts ha.

[TCombs]

Adding a couple extra pictures.

[TCombs]

Took a trip and the front of the car got chipped up quite a bit from a gravel truck that started to dump right in front of on me, on dry roads. Made no sense to me, and damaged the paint. The paint wasnt in the best shape to begin with, but the front end was pretty clean.

[Nateflix56]

Sorry to hear about the gravel, there are few things more frustrating than a truck driver oblivious to his unsecured load.

[PRY4SNO]

Man that really sucks. Did you get a license plate number?

One time in my A4 I was driving behind a truck/trailer and a piece of angle iron flew out the trailer, hit my bumper. I chased the guy down and ended up getting almost $2k to cover the repairs from the company he worked for. Was able to massage in a bunch of little touch ups for the price, so it was a win after dealing with all the hassle.

[TCombs]

Man that really sucks. Did you get a license plate number?

One time in my A4 I was driving behind a truck/trailer and a piece of angle iron flew out the trailer, hit my bumper. I chased the guy down and ended up getting almost $2k to cover the repairs from the company he worked for. Was able to massage in a bunch of little touch ups for the price, so it was a win after dealing with all the hassle.

Nah I didn't. I was to worried about the front, and when I backed off I was too far away. When I passed him I was just over it, and wanted to make sure there wasn't and oncoming car. I will do a bit of sanding and get some color match rattle can for a fix until I really want to paint it. I could have followed him or contacted ODOT but it was a mountain pass, and even if they road were dry they probably could have just claimed it was just in case it snowed later and tell me to pound sand. Im not sure if he knew he was laying down gravel or not, but I'm 99% positive that he stopped for a short stretch and then laid it back down, who knows. Although it bothers me, I really like the idea of old sleeper Audi's so it kinda just adds to the car. Just need to up the power a bit(;

[TCombs]

Last weekend I got a few small things done. Thanks to a couple guys on MG and here I now have a proper function horn and I successfully replaced my drive belt tensioner pulley. Found some write ups with good info and part numbers, and I went with the Volvo pulley.

Clock off and ready to be installed.

IMG_7006.jpg (2 MiB) Viewed 93080 times

Couldn't get the bolt out, and I was afraid I was going to strip it with hand tools. Called a buddy of mine and less then half a second with and impact, the old one was off. A quick clean and the new one was back in. The car still makes a bit of noise so I'm thinking the water pump.
In a couple weekends I will be installing my Wagner EVO RS ex. manifold. Any tips and tricks to help with that one? I'm going to soak with penetrating oil every night, starting a week in advanced. Also probably going to to some 034 motor mounts while I'm in there. Are the density line mounts good stuff? Another brand that is maybe better? Anything else I should take care of while that side of the engine is clear? Thanks for the help with everything so far! Ill be sure to take pictures.

[IslandRinger]

Nice work!

[PRY4SNO]

I'd opt for HPR mounts instead of the 034 ones. Higher quality design that will last longer, work better, and you're supporting a small company that still cares about the older cars. PM Jared (Angry Taco on here) for more info, or via his website:
http://hershperformance.com/index.html

[blbroo]

Last weekend I got a few small things done. Thanks to a couple guys on MG and here I now have a proper function horn and I successfully replaced my drive belt tensioner pulley. Found some write ups with good info and part numbers, and I went with the Volvo pulley.

IMG_7006.jpg

Couldn't get the bolt out, and I was afraid I was going to strip it with hand tools. Called a buddy of mine and less then half a second with and impact, the old one was off. A quick clean and the new one was back in. The car still makes a bit of noise so I'm thinking the water pump.
In a couple weekends I will be installing my Wagner EVO RS ex. manifold. Any tips and tricks to help with that one? I'm going to soak with penetrating oil every night, starting a week in advanced. Also probably going to to some 034 motor mounts while I'm in there. Are the density line mounts good stuff? Another brand that is maybe better? Anything else I should take care of while that side of the engine is clear? Thanks for the help with everything so far! Ill be sure to take pictures.

I did the same swap with the volvo pulley and also had a stubborn bolt. I couldn't even get it to budge with an impact, so I grabbed my torch and put flame on it for a minute or so. Once hot, it zipped out like was finger loose.

[IslandRinger]

I'd opt for HPR mounts instead of the 034 ones. Higher quality design that will last longer, work better, and you're supporting a small company that still cares about the older cars. PM Jared (Angry Taco on here) for more info, or via his website:
http://hershperformance.com/index.html

I'll vouch for Jared's products. I have HPR engine and tranny mounts and couldn't be happier with the quality and fit of them. Been running both for a couple thousand km's and they definitely have helped with reducing drivetrain slop. Bonus is that if we keep supporting him, he'll be more willing to make more parts for us C4 folks!

[TCombs]

I'd opt for HPR mounts instead of the 034 ones. Higher quality design that will last longer, work better, and you're supporting a small company that still cares about the older cars. PM Jared (Angry Taco on here) for more info, or via his website:
http://hershperformance.com/index.html

I'll vouch for Jared's products. I have HPR engine and tranny mounts and couldn't be happier with the quality and fit of them. Been running both for a couple thousand km's and they definitely have helped with reducing drivetrain slop. Bonus is that if we keep supporting him, he'll be more willing to make more parts for us C4 folks!

Awesome info, ha looks like I will go with the HPR mounts then. What durameter are you guys running? I was thinking 70A? The car has some performance upgrades on it (i.e. exhuast, FMIC, manual boost con.) just supporting mods really.
Thanks for the input, glad I ask about different brands.
Anything while I'm in there, that you guys can think of?

[IslandRinger]

I'd opt for HPR mounts instead of the 034 ones. Higher quality design that will last longer, work better, and you're supporting a small company that still cares about the older cars. PM Jared (Angry Taco on here) for more info, or via his website:
http://hershperformance.com/index.html

I'll vouch for Jared's products. I have HPR engine and tranny mounts and couldn't be happier with the quality and fit of them. Been running both for a couple thousand km's and they definitely have helped with reducing drivetrain slop. Bonus is that if we keep supporting him, he'll be more willing to make more parts for us C4 folks!

Awesome info, ha looks like I will go with the HPR mounts then. What durameter are you guys running? I was thinking 70A? The car has some performance upgrades on it (i.e. exhuast, FMIC, manual boost con.) just supporting mods really.
Thanks for the input, glad I ask about different brands.
Anything while I'm in there, that you guys can think of?

I used 70A as I'm going for an OEM+ feel. No plans on tracking the car for me. If anything, spirited driving at most. As mentioned before, feels much more solid and loses any slop without creating too much NVH.

I may recommend a Poly Snub Mount. Got mine from Apikol but can be had from AK Motorsports and perhaps 034(?). I added my components while doing a suspension rebuild so there was a whole lot of "while-you're-in-there."
Not sure how far you want to go. Easiest access to the PS engine mount is by removing the airbox. Good time to replace your air filter if it's been a while. Not hard while installed but doesn't get easier than this. O2 sensor is another candidate perhaps. My last piece of advice is to not forget the little metal heat shield that sits on top of the PS engine mount. It may look like a random piece of metal on top of the OEM mount but it's there for a reason.

[TCombs]

That’s what I was thinking as well. You guys have convinced me. I have the snub mount. Thought I posted it up a few threads back. I went with the Apikol. Kinda like the look of the blue bushings. I have looked up the post on how to install the manifolds and I have to take out the air box anyway.
I’ll keep in mind that heat shield. Thanks for the info. I didn’t know if there was anything else I should do while the air box, ex manifold and the turbo were out of the car.
I have been trying to convince some Audi technicians from the dealership to help me, and I think they are on board.

[TCombs]

Mounts ordered!

[IslandRinger]

That’s what I was thinking as well. You guys have convinced me. I have the snub mount. Thought I posted it up a few threads back. I went with the Apikol. Kinda like the look of the blue bushings. I have looked up the post on how to install the manifolds and I have to take out the air box anyway.
I’ll keep in mind that heat shield. Thanks for the info. I didn’t know if there was anything else I should do while the air box, ex manifold and the turbo were out of the car.
I have been trying to convince some Audi technicians from the dealership to help me, and I think they are on board.

You'll be happy with your purchase!

Missed the Apikol snub part. Looking forward to some updated posts when you get them in!

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

[TCombs]

A good buddy of mine who has help me quite a bit brought up the noise I was having and we believe it is my Viscous Clutch Fan Bearing. I am wondering if any one know what all do I need to replace? Can i just pull it and replace the bearing or do I need to buy a whole new bracket? Do I need the old style with the ears, or the new style without the ears? I have read the post on QW about it, but its not to clear what all I need to do, or maybe its just me. If someone could point me in the right direction that would be very helpful.

[PRY4SNO]

A good while I'm in there task is to re-do all the vac lines with silicon... two reasons. Cleans things up and then you know that everything is solid for another 20+ years of worry free operation. (Sorry if that's been covered, have read the thread but just going off memory of what's been done to this point)