B3 90Q 07k

[Afterthought]

Got a few goodies today,





Waiting on the plugs for the lights.


have some more parts to install as well.

Boost gauge


Also need to do the fuel pump upgrade.
Ive got this fuel pump , Deatschwerks 350.
fittings in and out are -8 AN ORB, but I need to figure out how to make sense of this with the rest of the system being metric...



Fuel filter is 14mmx1.5 Banjo inlet / 12x1.5 Banjo Outlet

The rubber hose I don't know yet without getting fuel on myself... 5/8" or 3/4" ID maybe?

[FFF]

Very nice box!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

[Afterthought]

Haha yeah love getting things from Iabed . Next one will probably be even better.

[Afterthought]

I’m trying to decide between swapping in this DW pump quickly and doing a “fuel pump upgrade lite” or actually doing everything I “should” do which will take me forever.
That would be ( I think) pump , surge tank, filter , etc rework , check valve ?
I might just do the pump and new filter for now and take some time to figure out what a surge tank actually will do for me and what volume it needs to be , where I can locate it under the car .

I some basic questions I need to look into, like , why do I need the check valve ? I won’t have back flow through the pump if it’s running, the only time I can think of that I may risk back flow is when I shut the car down .
Maybe if it’s hot and I shut it down , fuel system depressures quickly , fuel vaporizes in lines and makes hot start harder ? But that’s a CIS thing . This system pressures up in like 2 seconds on fuel pump prime

[PRY4SNO]

Nice box, indeed. Issam's the best.

If it were me I'd send it with that pump for now then you can plan the upgrade at your leisure. That pump should be good for plenty of heehaws for now, no? I'd keep the check valve to prevent backsiphoning and maintain line pressure. Can't hurt to have.

[Afterthought]

Few more things done this weekend .

I missed my mark when making the over axle piece on my exhaust , but I thought maybe as the exhaust heated up and grew it would be ok . anyway I could hear the god awful sound of it rubbing when driving . Luckily I made that short piece V-banded so I could pull it and rework it without hassle.
First time welding stainless in quite a while which is always humbling







Pulled bumper off . Fixed 2 of my oil leaks . Redid the front main seal and turbo oil return line wasn’t 100% tight .
Installed headlight and started adjusting ..


“Service mode “





Installed a boost gauge, changed oil . Still need to do the VEMS round gauge .







Made an engine stand for my soon to be “built “ engine

[jbrentd]

Looks like a productive weekend! Are the timing components on the rear of a 07K?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Afterthought]

Looks like a productive weekend! Are the timing components on the rear of a 07K?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah all the timing stuff is in the back under the upper and lower timing cover. I only have one of the covers off yet


I’m really trying to get this engine apart soon so I can start building it but I my spare time just keeps disappearing .

[Afterthought]

One thing I’m still working on sorting out ... I need to get the brakes set up right .
They bite hard and I’m really liking this set up so far , but I’m having trouble figuring out how to get this Tilton valve adjusted right to bias more toward the front .

This is how I have is setup now . Tilton metric bias valve in line toward the rears . Tee near the fuel pump .

Nothing in line to the front .

I’ve tried full CCW , full Cw and different variations in between . The issue I’m having is on really hard braking I am locking the rears up which gets interesting . I’ve bled the brakes a ton and the bled and I’m not getting air out . The rotors were all new and I’ve done my best to “bed them” and they’re all discoloring stuff the same rate .









I cross checked the notes that came with it because it seemed odd to me that counter clockwise is more closed , that seems backwards to what I would think but ... it certainly says so

[PRY4SNO]

My guess is it's a needle valve for precise metering and being able to throttle the valve over a long period of time. Going CW on the valve narrows the orifice, so the pressure increases. CCW increases the opening, so at a constant volume the pressure decreases.

[Afterthought]

My guess is it's a needle valve for precise metering and being able to throttle the valve over a long period of time. Going CW on the valve narrows the orifice, so the pressure increases. CCW increases the opening, so at a constant volume the pressure decreases.

That’s exactly the part that confuses me . Going clockwise on the valve increases the pressure to the rear brakes and counter clockwise decreases rear brake pressure ... so it must not be a typical needle valve like I’m picturing inside .
while fully CCW is better , it’s still not enough to keep the rears from locking first . Maybe I need to take another look at whether the system is fully bled .

[ringbearer]

Are all the bleed nipples at the highest point?

[Afterthought]

Are all the bleed nipples at the highest point?

Yeah , all of the bleed nipples are oriented upward and I’ve bled a bunch of times using the pedal first then a power bleeder. I’m not getting any air out but it’s quick and easy to check again.
I’m thinking about getting a couple gauges with adapters to measure brake pressure at the front and rear calipers if that doesn’t work .

[ringbearer]

Worth a shot, brake pressures would be good info.

[FFF]

Just a couple of initial thoughts not knowing what you have for a master cylinder and not having looked at the specs on the proportioning valve... just some general comments.

Can you easily bypass it and get a “feel” for what is going on - try to be consistent with pedal pressure - pick a brake point reference and see where you stop, what is locking up etc... I find it helpful to make notes if you are doing lots of adjustments...

Then reconnect, do the same tests, one full clockwise, one full counter clockwise and one in the middle...

If there is no change then perhaps valve is bad - while highly unlikely not impossible. Alternatively is the valve spec’d to allow to completely stop pressure? The ones I’ve used allow pressure to occur regardless of adjustment point. If that is the case your master cylinder may simply be putting too much pressure to the rear if fully restricted on that proportioning valve...

If you can get a gauge on that is the quickest way to figure out what is going on obviously... hope this helps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

[Afterthought]

So , I ordered a gauge that threads in to the master cyl bleeder . Hopefully that will help give me some insight .
. I’ve run this same Tilton proportioning valve before and not had an issue but I also didn’t have as big of brakes front or rear on that setup. Maybe I’m just noticing the issues now because I’m doing hard stops but it still doesn’t feel right to me .
It may be possible to bypass the valve by installing a Tee in its place and plug one port , basicslly make a female-female adapter to take its place .

The valve is supposed to allow up to 50% decrease in the rear braking circuit .



So I will revisit this when I get the gauges I guess.

/
Unrelated issues but I finally found front ball Joints to replace my clunky one . Went out to slap the new one in after work and I have a clearance issue . It won’t take much to make it work but it seems odd. Ordered these per the number of what was on the car . OD is just a little bigger , ball joint hits the rotor with my setup , which is weird . I don’t remember this issue from before when I ran the same setup.
Currently I have
•2 Pc 90 20V knuckles
•A8 Rotor 323x30 4D0615301J
•RS2 Caliper carrier






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jbrentd]

This may be a stupid question, but it seems on a lot of master cylinders, the rear brake line connects to the port towards the front of the car and visa versa for the front brake line. Could the brake lines be connected to the MC incorrectly? I don't know what type of MC you are using.

[Afterthought]

This may be a stupid question, but it seems on a lot of master cylinders, the rear brake line connects to the port towards the front of the car and visa versa for the front brake line. Could the brake lines be connected to the MC incorrectly? I don't know what type of MC you are using.

No it seems like a smart question to me .
This is the master cylinder I have , typically supplied with the dual stage vac booster kit . I tried asking Alex (who supplies the kit) this last week , this is what he said .

[FFF]

Very interested in seeing the outcome on this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[jbrentd]

Well, Alex knows his stuff, but it would be a simple change to see if it fixes the issue.

[Afterthought]

Well, Alex knows his stuff, but it would be a simple change to see if it fixes the issue.

I agree, it would be a quick test , and one of the few things I can think of that would be left to check.
Basically odd the top of my head there are a few things , certainly more I haven’t thought of yet.
• swap MC outlet lines?
• system not bled properly ? (Double check valve position during bleeding
• bad prop valve (purchased it new )
•rear brakes too big ?? I tried to use a matching set from a car . But they also come from a car that has the opposite weight distribution F/R

Another easy test is I can get a valve for $50 That has the same fittings and allows apparently up to 60% reduction in rear brake pressure .

[audifreakjim]

I seem to recall the fronts are connected to the "rear ports" because they are often lower than the fronts. If you were to run low on fluid for an example, the rears would go before the fronts which is better than the other way around. Or something like that.

[Afterthought]

I seem to recall the fronts are connected to the "rear ports" because they are often lower than the fronts. If you were to run low on fluid for an example, the rears would go before the fronts which is better than the other way around. Or something like that.

Ok , as soon as I get a chance I should try this with the brakes .

I’ve got a couple other things to tend to , good and bad . ...

Before I start adding any boost I still need to change my fuel pump from the stock one . I’ve just been kind of road testing the car and taking it easy , fixing anything that pops up. The shift linkage and box setup is working extremely well, brakes are amazing , suspension is amazing .

I need to figure out what spark plugs should be in here , I only know ol Audi stuff.

However after fixing almost all of the damn oil leaks , an issue has popped up that I can’t ignore .
After driving , Ive got a very small puddle what I believe is actually gear oil leaking from the bellhousing . I’m afraid it’s going to get on the clutch so I’ll probably be pulling the engine to fix that before I can enjoy the car any more . I’ve tried to think of any way around it but I can’t yet . It has to be the input shaft seal???

[PRY4SNO]

When I installed the 323 mm A8 rotors and 986 BoxsterS calipers with RS2 caliper carrier, I needed a 3 mm shim to fit the carrier and then needed to turn about 1-2 mm off the inner radius of the inside of the rotor for clearance.

[Afterthought]

When I installed the 323 mm A8 rotors and 986 BoxsterS calipers with RS2 caliper carrier, I needed a 3 mm shim to fit the carrier and then needed to turn about 1-2 mm off the inner radius of the inside of the rotor for clearance.

Yeah that sounds like exactly what I did , 3mm shims on the caliper.
Clearance on the ball joint is crazy close to fitting .. a MM or two, just enough to bind up the wheel a little . Hard to get a good pic that shows it well.

Turning the rotor or shaving a mm off the ball joint seems like about the easiest possible solution to me but it was just odd to me that I put this whole setup together months ago , then I changed the drivers ball joint with the same P/N and it wouldn’t fit without running . It’s that close .