Yeah, I'd say you need to put some 'wills rings in that there block if you wanna run that level of boost.
I have never seen a radiator pop like that, I suppose 40psi banging in there plus a whole load of cylinder pressure would do that. To be honest I am amazed it didn't just blow a hose off or something.
I am wondering if maybe a little less boost might help
3rd times a charm, I know you'll nail it in the end, good luck man.
something wrong in the tuning, we run those boost levels with no o ring and we have yet to destroy a HG... when you get it back running again drop the timing to 15psi instead of your 20psi and go from there, your cylinder pressure is way up there since it' s not burning it correctly and it's it's pushing the gasket out.
weird thing though.... when i took it apart, the #1 cyl is dead. but the #4 cyl was full of water. the intake manifold was full of water. the AWIC air tract has water in it.
i gotta check the rad, the AWIC, alot of things. but the hoses never blew off
I agree with him, and I'm not saying detonation. And I'm no tuning pro, but when I see this cylinder pressure always comes into my mind. With good race gases ability to resist detonation I think it becomes possible to set off a lean (and very hot) burn that doesn't detonate but causing the cylinder pressure to sky rocket.
piston don't look like it ran lean, it' sjust when you get in the high boost it's not just about a/f it's how it burns it to control the presure.
Maybe your Air water system is leaking water into your air stream an hte engine is swallowing the water wich alot of water does not compress, but a hydro lock would usualy bend rods.. but come to think of it you broke all 4 wrist pins last time.. maybe put your air/water intercooler pump on an dlet circulate the water for a little while(put your batterie on teh charger)then check all your intake piping to see if water is in there, if so you gotta fix before anything else.
if you want a killer power curve and make more power get one of our Heads, if you need another bottom end let me know ours our doing pretty good :-)
autoxtrëm wrote:piston don't look like it ran lean, it' sjust when you get in the high boost it's not just about a/f it's how it burns it to control the presure.
Maybe your Air water system is leaking water into your air stream an hte engine is swallowing the water wich alot of water does not compress, but a hydro lock would usualy bend rods.. but come to think of it you broke all 4 wrist pins last time.. maybe put your air/water intercooler pump on an dlet circulate the water for a little while(put your batterie on teh charger)then check all your intake piping to see if water is in there, if so you gotta fix before anything else.
if you want a killer power curve and make more power get one of our Heads, if you need another bottom end let me know ours our doing pretty good :-)
Thats an interesting thought......
Given your radiator, I would say the HG let go and cylinder pressure was pushed into the cooling system for a couple of revolutions of the motor. I wonder if there is a crack in the block to the water jacket, or the AW cooler is leaking a bit and cyl 1 is getting it all..... it is odd its cyl 1 again. Did you have the block checked out for warp/flatness etc between explosions (sorry I cant remember)
totally different block AND head this time around....
and both were checked for flat. the head took .006 to get flat. the block flat and magnafluxed.
i am leaning (no pun intended LOL) towards an injector issue maybe. that was the only part of the config that remained the same. i am hoping there is nothing wrong with the bottom end. but cranking it with the head off it sounds better than with the head on. i do notice one valve is not seating on cyl 1 i think it was... center intake.
the car made alot more power and sooner with the smaller bore (82mm than versus 83mm now) block and the well worked over small port head versus this oem largeport casting with no work done to it.
ya, but i did really give up this time. at least for awhile.
my race season is over now, so i now have time to kick back and get the marriage credits back. so i can do it all over again next season
and work it it little bits at a time. Joey is gonna do a full tear-down of the block. but i am going to leave it in the car until he gets caught up at work. he did put alot of time into this as well.... and he is thorough and wants to make sure everything is good.
Aaron... Man I am scared to even start my car now. Dude that sucks. Quite honestly I am confused as to why the dyno-run was so long. You are loading that motor up so much when you do that, anyway, seriously sucks man.
Do you run a standard water pump or an electronic one? Also are you running a thermostat?
we actually have to bring it back up to temp before we run it each time, it cools off pretty good. the AWIC works great as well. it stays nice and cold, sweating the AWIC body from cold even during and after the pulls....
oil starts around 145 degrees, and ends between 160-180 degrees after a good pull.
water did peak once to around 215 or so, that was early in the session. after than it stayed nice and low... we adjusted the dyno fans as well, could have been it too.
Are you sure you want to run without a thermostat? I'm not convinced that coolant flow is improved without running a t-stat. In fact I know in the motorcycle world its actually very important that you DO run a t-stat, because the coolant flow can be greatly affected by not having the restriction created by the t-stat in place. Its a pressure vs. flow thing..
While I was helping out the FSAE team they found that cooling performance was hindered without a t-stat, they wound up running a plate in place of the t-stat with about a 1/4" hole in the middle for optimal cooling, FWIW.
a4kquattro wrote:Are you sure you want to run without a thermostat? I'm not convinced that coolant flow is improved without running a t-stat. In fact I know in the motorcycle world its actually very important that you DO run a t-stat, because the coolant flow can be greatly affected by not having the restriction created by the t-stat in place. Its a pressure vs. flow thing..
While I was helping out the FSAE team they found that cooling performance was hindered without a t-stat, they wound up running a plate in place of the t-stat with about a 1/4" hole in the middle for optimal cooling, FWIW.
I would agree with the above. Especially on a high RPM motor. I run a thermostat as it controls flow speed and allows for proper and efficient heat transfer. Not saying its your issue, but the direction of flow for the water if it was moving too quickly could create a pocket of air right at the front of the motor as the water would find the easiest route back to the pump and rush through without the restriction of the thermostat. Again, not saying its your issue...
