Derracuda's Project Alpine 4kq *Comatose*

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:10 pm

derracuda wrote:hmm..... you might have something there timmy.... you a smaht cookie

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:44 am

well, i found something interesting this morning. i put a angle gauge on the front struts and there's like 0 degrees of castor! the strut is pretty much straight up and down

.... there's like, a ton to improve on that

the rear has like 6 degrees of castor.... :bashtard:

ralleyquattro · Post by **ralleyquattro** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 12:51 pm

I see you are comparing them using the hubs as a reference... dont! :wink:
What you need to use as a reference is the top of the shock tube (need to get Ur-q shocks for that) and the ball joint attachment point, those will not change during the conversion BTDT.
Are you going coilover?? If so this is a walk in the park.. :-D

This conversion makes a huge difference!!

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 1:14 pm

ralleyquattro wrote:I see you are comparing them using the hubs as a reference... dont! :wink:
What you need to use as a reference is the top of the shock tube (need to get Ur-q shocks for that) and the ball joint attachment point, those will not change during the conversion BTDT.

mine will be changing. once i get my brake parts mounted and test fit the wheels, then i can measure how far inward i need to move the strut housings to make my wheel/tire combo fit properly. i'm guessing it will only be a half an inch or less, but still will need to be moved.

Are you going coilover?? If so this is a walk in the park.. :-D

This conversion makes a huge difference!!

yes, coilovers are a must

ralleyquattro · Post by **ralleyquattro** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 5:19 pm

IMHO it's a lot easier to get another set of wheels and sell this one rather then "fool" around with a proven setup.. But I guess some like to be different..

Cheers

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 5:45 pm

yeah...... about the wheels. if i had UR fenders, it wouldn't be such and issue. i have to obstacles two overcome, fitting 235's... and then 6piston calipers behind the rims... which have to be about 45mm offset to fit the wheels inside the fender lips.... i've done plenty of measuring and i think i've got the ball park layed out. we'll see how things look once i have some brake parts to play with so i can determine my final wheel fitment on the strut.

if it wasn't for the 6piston calipers, i wouldn't really have to monkey with anything. but i've been staring at them for too long, and besides, i don't know of any other type 85 saloons with honker brakes like i'll have

ralleyquattro · Post by **ralleyquattro** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:00 pm

Iguess I am shooting for FUchs with SQ calipers..

WIth Ur-q suspension the FUchs fill out the fenders perfectly.. and actually rub in the back with passangers and a big dip/compression.

Anyhoo.. what happened with all the pics from the beginning of this thread??

Cheers

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:18 pm

hmm, that's a good question about the pics....... i have them linked from photobucket, and i'm only at 14% of my monthly allowed bandwidth usage :?

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:01 pm

Hey mang! Where are you going to mount the hydraulics mang? Quattro 3 wheel motion!!

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:05 pm

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:38 pm

what? This isn't the Derracuda Big Pimpin' V8 4000q rollin' in Woodburn thread??

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:43 pm

you see wire wheels here man?

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:46 am

ok, i think i have my inward movement of the axles figured out based on axle measurement. the drivers side is 19" from the end of the CV cup to the trans output flange, and the pass side is 17".... if i move the trans and motor over to the drivers side 1" i can use two right side axles and give me about an inch of inward movement at the struts.... that'll swallow 235's without any issues since i could likely fit them now if i wasn't trying to clear deeper calipers. this will also mean that i won't need to mess with custom or modified axle lengths.

yessss, i love it when a plan looks to be coming together 8)

dang, i need to get to work on this thing... stupid other things getting in the way

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 11:11 am

derracuda wrote:ok, i think i have my inward movement of the axles figured out based on axle measurement. the drivers side is 19" from the end of the CV cup to the trans output flange, and the pass side is 17".... if i move the trans and motor over to the drivers side 1" i can use two right side axles and give me about an inch of inward movement at the struts.... that'll swallow 235's without any issues since i could likely fit them now if i wasn't trying to clear deeper calipers. this will also mean that i won't need to mess with custom or modified axle lengths.

yessss, i love it when a plan looks to be coming together 8)

dang, i need to get to work on this thing... stupid other things getting in the way

Hey Derek,

I could be wrong here but I think if you move the lower end in an inch you should also move the top strut mounting point in an inch to maintain the hub angle that is inherent in the bearing mount of the hub. If you move just the bottom in you will be angling the hub in effect adding positive static camber.

I dont see why you couldnt move the strut top mount in if you are using coilovers there is plenty of space up there.

(With all this work you might as well just build some double unequal wishbones and ditch the strut completely....you know you want to!)

personally I would URQ arch it and be done with it

H

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 11:37 am

camber plates

i think i mentioned before that i'd be moving the tops inward. in my understanding of an unequal length upper and lower control arms, the inside wheel when turning will lose camber. since i'm installing camber plates anyway, it won't be much of an inconvenience to relocate stuff inward the distance i'm after, instead of botching the frame rails up for UCA's, and having to change to some kind of AWD front spindle and mess up the brake package that's being developed for me, etc etc etc. with what i have planned, i'll be using stock strut housings, stock axles, camber plates, and custom lower control arms (i want rod ends on em', so i might as well make new ones).

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 11:47 am

derracuda wrote:camber plates i think i mentioned before that i'd be moving the tops inward. in my understanding of an unequal length upper and lower control arms, the inside wheel when turning will lose camber. since i'm installing camber plates anyway, it won't be much of an inconvenience to relocate stuff inward the distance i'm after, instead of botching the frame rails up for UCA's, and having to change to some kind of AWD front spindle and mess up the brake package that's being developed for me, etc etc etc. with what i have planned, i'll be using stock strut housings, stock axles, camber plates, and custom lower control arms (i want rod ends on em', so i might as well make new ones).

Gotchya - just winding you up....

I think you might need more on the top than the camber plates will give you though as you will still want the ability to add camber with the plates beyound the inch you gain from the camber plates. Custom camber / castor plates

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:00 pm

when the camber plates go in, i can put them wherever i want

... as in measure where the stockers are now, and then go in approximately how far i need to... you get my drift ?

the camber plates aren't bolt in, they require cutting the strut tops off and building boxes to mount them to.

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:37 pm

derracuda wrote:when the camber plates go in, i can put them wherever i want ... as in measure where the stockers are now, and then go in approximately how far i need to... you get my drift ? the camber plates aren't bolt in, they require cutting the strut tops off and building boxes to mount them to.

Perfect

- Whose camber / castor plates are you planning on using?

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:40 pm

probably GC

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 7:58 pm

uhh......

that's what happens when the car in front of you doesn't GO WHEN THE LIGHT IS GREEN..... gah

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:01 pm

DOH DOH DOH.... Weep!

Post by **Marc** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:06 pm

:(

you can rebuild her, you have the technology

Wizard-of-OD · Post by **Wizard-of-OD** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:09 pm

UR-Q FENDERS!!!!!111!eleven!!

IanRota · Post by **IanRota** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:20 pm

owwee....

welp... at least... nope I can't see a bright side right away... that sux dude! :(
you'll build it back... :-)

dspl1236 · Post by **dspl1236** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:22 pm

i see the other party had a 2'' hitch