Derracudas zermatt 20vt,6spd, 351awhp - July 4th drive vid
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oldsklaudidub
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derracuda
i'm just sort of picking random things on the list since it doesn't really matter what order any of it is done, it just all needs to be done 
so, throttle cable... factory 4kq is too short, so i pulled a page from my old alpine 20vt days and made a "crimp" out of a 6mm bolt shank. it's about 15mm long, and i drilled a teeny hole in it just big enough for a stripped throttle cable to go inside, then crimped it very tight....


don't worry about cable alignment in the pic. i still have to weld the bracket on the plenum to hold the cable in place

then i had some fun with the torch and some 3/8" stainless rod. this turbo is a wee bit heavy, and i want it to be supported. going in my "rally" style theme of the engine bay, i wanted an over the top of the engine brace. i don't like the idea of using the valve cover bolts or studs because, well, my turbo is bigger than anything audi ever used, and with the age of the head castings and bolts we've seen strip out, i didn't think it prudent to use the VC bolts for this. so, since my dist, is going bye bye, i made a bracket to go in place of the factory dist. plug holder that reached up far enough to be in line. then, interestingly enough, the manifold plenum base has some extra mounting surfaces machined in, so i made another bracket to take advantage of that. the upward support bar is bolted to the extra threads sticking out of the top, front and rear manifold studs.
if you think there is too much leverage for the end of the rod on top of the turbo, keep in mind i had to heat the rod up pretty good to get it to bend, and i also hillybilly calculated that there should be enough flex in this whole brace setup to allow for heat expansion and contraction to hopefully alleviate problems associated with that. i may put one more simple strut type brace from underneath as well.
check it out, i exploded a hammer

flatten the ends to make nice mounting points


this was the tricky part... getting the angles right..


if you look careful you can see the upper turbo coolant line formed. somehow my mind goes into major scavenger mode when i need to make something fit that doesn't belong there, and i start thinking of all the cars i've worked on, and what fittings or tubes or whatever that could be used for an OEM'ish fit and serviceability. this time it happened to be a mercedes ML420 tranny cooler line that was replaced for leaking at the rubber hose crimps. i threw out the rubber bit, carefully tweaked it as needed in a tubing bender, and viola! fits up to the stock audi coolant line from behind the t-belt cover 8)

mount point at the back of the head

mount by the fuel rail. the nice thing about SS is once you've done your hot work with it, you can sand it and get the finish back nice again. once it's all done it will be sanded with 320grit around the tube.

the two top bars will be welded together and then welded to the upward support bar forming a somewhat triangulated support structure. the gap between the flattened ends will serve as the mounting point down to the turbo.


hopefully i can get some more done today before i head back out of town. it's coming along good and i am happy with the progress so far!

so, throttle cable... factory 4kq is too short, so i pulled a page from my old alpine 20vt days and made a "crimp" out of a 6mm bolt shank. it's about 15mm long, and i drilled a teeny hole in it just big enough for a stripped throttle cable to go inside, then crimped it very tight....


don't worry about cable alignment in the pic. i still have to weld the bracket on the plenum to hold the cable in place

then i had some fun with the torch and some 3/8" stainless rod. this turbo is a wee bit heavy, and i want it to be supported. going in my "rally" style theme of the engine bay, i wanted an over the top of the engine brace. i don't like the idea of using the valve cover bolts or studs because, well, my turbo is bigger than anything audi ever used, and with the age of the head castings and bolts we've seen strip out, i didn't think it prudent to use the VC bolts for this. so, since my dist, is going bye bye, i made a bracket to go in place of the factory dist. plug holder that reached up far enough to be in line. then, interestingly enough, the manifold plenum base has some extra mounting surfaces machined in, so i made another bracket to take advantage of that. the upward support bar is bolted to the extra threads sticking out of the top, front and rear manifold studs.
if you think there is too much leverage for the end of the rod on top of the turbo, keep in mind i had to heat the rod up pretty good to get it to bend, and i also hillybilly calculated that there should be enough flex in this whole brace setup to allow for heat expansion and contraction to hopefully alleviate problems associated with that. i may put one more simple strut type brace from underneath as well.
check it out, i exploded a hammer


flatten the ends to make nice mounting points


this was the tricky part... getting the angles right..


if you look careful you can see the upper turbo coolant line formed. somehow my mind goes into major scavenger mode when i need to make something fit that doesn't belong there, and i start thinking of all the cars i've worked on, and what fittings or tubes or whatever that could be used for an OEM'ish fit and serviceability. this time it happened to be a mercedes ML420 tranny cooler line that was replaced for leaking at the rubber hose crimps. i threw out the rubber bit, carefully tweaked it as needed in a tubing bender, and viola! fits up to the stock audi coolant line from behind the t-belt cover 8)

mount point at the back of the head

mount by the fuel rail. the nice thing about SS is once you've done your hot work with it, you can sand it and get the finish back nice again. once it's all done it will be sanded with 320grit around the tube.

the two top bars will be welded together and then welded to the upward support bar forming a somewhat triangulated support structure. the gap between the flattened ends will serve as the mounting point down to the turbo.


hopefully i can get some more done today before i head back out of town. it's coming along good and i am happy with the progress so far!
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3bAudios
wooot looking awesome!
24v-VR6T-CQ BEAST http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=193#p37887
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
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derracuda
i didn't get time to post the pics up friday night, but i finished the turbo brace. so, three things checked off my list, lengthing throttle cable, turbo/header brace, and coil mounting.


and yes, the ring will be just welded to the IM... i need to weld the bracket on for the throttle cable, rings, mount for IAT, and then go to town on the finish, and then clearcoat it'll be done.


and yes, the ring will be just welded to the IM... i need to weld the bracket on for the throttle cable, rings, mount for IAT, and then go to town on the finish, and then clearcoat it'll be done.
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JimCoupeTQ
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
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glibobbo21
- Posts: 659
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:51 am
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derracuda
crankcase breather plumbing time!
after thinking and thinking, and talking to Jimbo, this is the setup i came up with. i used a bunch of AC lines i had laying around (collected for this purpose), and used some of the fittings for ease of service later.
first up, gotta make a port for the AC fitting to mate to. unibits to the rescue + some careful die grinder work to make the bevel. it's sealed by an O-ring and held in with one bolt.

placement on the valve cover

cut out the flange. i've gained new respect for hand sawing pieces for better accuracy
(and forearm strength)


since this valve cover has already been sorta raped, might as well use it for this test.

welded the flange on (don't mind the burned paint, i'll sand blast and refinish)

next on to a pipe from the catch can to the block



after that i welded on a Y neck to connect it to the valve cover


the tubes are sanded, then i wrap steel wool around it and finish it out, wipe down, spray with high temp clear.

the next pipe goes from the breather can to the intake of the turbo. i learned from this car that i didn't like the milky moisture build up in the crankcase breather system form being open to atmosphere and moisture.
jigged up

welds are getting a bit better. i like doing the high frequency thin alu. just make sure it's clean!

it will pass through the old charcoal canister gromet lined hole

i iz happahhh

after thinking and thinking, and talking to Jimbo, this is the setup i came up with. i used a bunch of AC lines i had laying around (collected for this purpose), and used some of the fittings for ease of service later.
first up, gotta make a port for the AC fitting to mate to. unibits to the rescue + some careful die grinder work to make the bevel. it's sealed by an O-ring and held in with one bolt.

placement on the valve cover

cut out the flange. i've gained new respect for hand sawing pieces for better accuracy
(and forearm strength)

since this valve cover has already been sorta raped, might as well use it for this test.

welded the flange on (don't mind the burned paint, i'll sand blast and refinish)

next on to a pipe from the catch can to the block



after that i welded on a Y neck to connect it to the valve cover


the tubes are sanded, then i wrap steel wool around it and finish it out, wipe down, spray with high temp clear.

the next pipe goes from the breather can to the intake of the turbo. i learned from this car that i didn't like the milky moisture build up in the crankcase breather system form being open to atmosphere and moisture.
jigged up

welds are getting a bit better. i like doing the high frequency thin alu. just make sure it's clean!


it will pass through the old charcoal canister gromet lined hole

i iz happahhh

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derracuda
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WAUG0806
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
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dubsmith
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derracuda
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audi90quattro10v









