The Project Pad

Here are the motor mounts finally after 4 months...
This is all pre-paint











The Drivers Side is perfect - everything lines up perfectly
the passenger's side is good but not perfect. the arm hits the motor mount too low so I will likely hang the mount down from the frame.

Now I can finally install the clutch, engine harness and start buttoning the mother up!

a bunch more progress today. I was hoping to get the engine in for good so I can start building things around it. Until now I've had it with the flywheel attached but no clutch or pressure plate. This kept it so the engine was easy to take in and out for fitting (which I've done 40 or 50 times)

So today after priming, painting and attaching the mounts, I went to put the pressure plate and clutch in.

I was having some trouble though as the 034 bushing was sitting just proud of the flywheel. see below...


it was creating a gap between the clutch and the flywheel that would not work


So I remember there was a spacer behind the pressure plate on the ABH originally so I put that behind the flywheel to push it out a little bit and it solved the issue. I considered grinding it down a few mm but didn't want to do any harm.



It did push the starter ring and crank position sensor out from the sensors a little bit though - that is a concern...




With that done, I put the engine and transmission together, and monkeyed with the engine mounts to get the height of the engine correct and keep it off the subframe.


Note the washers lowering the motor mount on the passenger's side.

Anyway, a question:

I have the ABZ Injectors - what's the point of the vacuum system on them? I see that I can buy inserts so I could use "normal" injectors with the intake manifold, but I don't necessarily want to buy 8 new injectors and the bungs.

The vacuum system is actually there to cool the injectors. I think k the called it air shroud.

Nice work, will be great to see this completed.

Harness fits!

Getting there.

Greg W.

So much win

Made more progress over the weekend...

Put all the wiring back into the car and attempted to reconnect everything. Only a few plugs are still loose.

Got the dash back in (and did the heater core / flap recovering while I had the car apart)
put the carpet back in though without any floor padding it fits really loose.

Here's what's left unwired...





Found the diff lock display and button broken:



But got a bunch of stuff back together.



then played around with badging:

I'd like to shorten my fuel lines since they no longer need to go under the now removed battery tray - plus the hoses from the ABZ don't reach the Coupe's locations.



if I cut the lines back further, what kind of flares do I need to do for the connections shown here?

That should be a standard bubble flair.

I'm new to flares. Thanks!

I got the starter wired in and the solenoid too today.
My goal is to hear this thing run this weekend.

I have no coolant at all in it but I filled it with oil today and put some gas in the tank in preparation for a brief start. I want to make sure there are no major issues before I figure out cooling and do the timing belt job.

I pulled the plugs and turned it over to see if the triggers are working right. they appear to be - right?


Then I put the plugs back, installed the coils and plugged in injectors to see what would happen...

https://youtu.be/lEfaEA3LLrY
credit to my 5 year old for shooting the video

So I need to chase down fuel delivery and spark this weekend!

Looks like no spark - I'm digging into it now.

The fuel feed goes into the rail and the supply comes off of the FPR right?

Grillage wrote:Looks like no spark - I'm digging into it now.

The fuel feed goes into the rail and the supply comes off of the FPR right?

your trigger log has spark events. so, no spark probably means power or ground supply problems to your coils. you can use "test mode" on the ignition outputs visual page to fire the coils manually for testing purposes. one click = one spark on the test button.

for fuel rails, the pump output line should go directly to the rails, and then the opposite side of the rail goes to the fuel pressure regulator. the regulator is a "gate". it holds back the flow to the return to maintain pressure in the post-pump side of the line.

Thanks Marc,

I am troubleshooting now and as far as I can tell I have ground at the coil connectors, have constant 12v there too. I am NOT getting any signal at the POS's though. I should be getting 5v from the ECU outputs correct?

Also, I now don't get the trigger log showing up. I sometimes get no data when I try to log it.

I get a ground pulse when I test on the coils! and some voltage that's so fast my multimeter can't measure it at the POS's

I would say the Ignition is set up correctly!
I think I have trigger issues now. I was able to get just the primary trigger to show up again but not all of them.

Even weirder, I get a good triggerlog result without the plugs in but with them in I have issues

Okay, super weird.

I put a 12v LED in one of the injector plugs so I can see it pulse - if it's pulsing then I know the injectors should be firing - which can't happen without triggers.

I get good trigger readings and see pulsing with all the spark plugs out - so I start to put plugs in to see when it stops working.
as soon as I put a plug in either of the front two cylinders (1 or 5) I lose my triggers.
I can put all the plugs in cylinders 2,3,4,6,7,8 without any issue. In fact, with those 6 cylinders hooked up I can start the car (though really sketchily)

https://youtu.be/7zm63OkJCuE

I'm trying to figure out what could possibly cause this?

ignition noise most likely. lets talk about your grounds. how is each ground connected in your harness, and how do the stock coils ground? specifically to what locations.

the sensor Ground and common ground bundle all goes to the rear passenger's side of the head. I used the stud that holds the hard coolant pipe in place on that side. I'm going to doublecheck some things this morning to make sure all is correct.

As for the Coils grounds, I am using the stock harness - I'll trace down which of the grounds from the stock harness carries that Coil ground and report back.

Also, I don't think I was super clear on the issue. The first triggerlog above was done with all plugs out, coils disconnected and injectors disconnected. I was able to get the same result with plugs out, coils connected (but hanging off obviously) and injectors plugged in.

However, If I put a spark plug in the holes of Cyl 1 or 5 (not the coil - just the plug) I lose my triggers. the only thing I can think of is that this would create some continuity between the head and cover that is otherwise not there. so weird!

Also, I think some of my injectors aren't working. The Test mode on VEMS for the injectors, Is that there so I can isolate which injectors are spraying at a given time? that way I can disconnect the fuel rail and test the injectors one by one?

thanks

Ground from ECU


Ground from Coils
passenger side:

driver side:

Where does the sensor wire run in relation to all of these grounds?

DE80q wrote:Where does the sensor wire run in relation to all of these grounds?

The sensor group is all at the ECU and meets up with Common Ground branch very near there. That common ground branch is the black wire on the back side of the PS head

I did it per this drawing...

Sorry should have been little more clear on that. I mean the sheilded cable itself that leads to the sensor. Is it running close to any of your grounds, or power wires? I'm assuming that the shield for that cable is a seperate pin on the connector.

Which sensor are you asking about?