The Project Pad

Update. Wilford, at the time the vacuum reference was unhooked so thats why I figured it was laggy. After plumbing it all in I had a high idle. Unplugged the ISV and it settled down nicely.

NOW IF ONLY I COULD GET THE FING CLUTCH TO BLEED

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlSRZBMFEu8[/youtube]

Sweet! Did you have the rad cap off? Almost looked like steam coming from that area. Maybe you have it open DP. That's DOWN PIPE for all you sickos out there

88a5tq wrote:Sweet! Did you have the rad cap off? Almost looked like steam coming from that area. Maybe you have it open DP. That's DOWN PIPE for all you sickos out there

Yeah, the cap is off, and I think it actually has no DP. Sounds crazy like that.

Good to see it moving along!

Alright, I'm at my wits end here. Car runs wonderful except I cant drive it because of the fucking clutch.

It was fine before the swap and I never removed the slave from the trans.

Even with a pressure bleeder, I CAN NOT get fluid moving throughout the system.

Suggestions? I have tried vacuum, gravity, and pressure. NOTHING. Sound like master went bad or something?

Are you getting fluid to the slave inlet? If not I would just repalce the master.

Try closing everything up on the system (if it's not already) and pump the clutch until you start to feel pressure. (We had to pull the clutch out by hand)

Once you feel pressure pull the clutch up all the way.

Crack the bleeder at the slave and push the clutch down all the way.

Then close the bleeder and pull the clutch back up.

Repeat as many times necessary.

If that doesn't work then replace the Master. I replaced the master in my 4K in about 5 minutes. They aren't that expensive. You should have changed the slave when the motor was out. Now it's going to really suck if you have to do it


T-Life

I was thinking the same thing. With all the work you have done to this, a new master, slave, and braided line are in order.

somehow did you pinch one of the clutch hydraulic lines?

Well I'm getting fluid when I crack the hardline to rubber line connection so that tells me master is fine. Still 0 fluid at the slave so will be changing the line and slave today

I just had an issue with a UrS clutch master where the piston didn't come back far enough to uncover the "refill" hole when you let off the pedal. Replaced it with a new one that did and it was all good. Spent a few frustrated hours on it before I figured it out. Normal easy"ish" bleed with the new part.

Got it figured out. Had a bad slave AND a bad master!!!!

Drove it around the block after replacing everything with the stuff out of my 4000. At least that will have new components.

Drives well but still have a high idle and it doesnt want to settle down

How high is the idle? ISV deleted or still there?

isv still there. Dont have the tach hooked up but feels like 2000

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

If you arent running AC, just delete the ISV. I ended up plugging the ports on mine after going through a few ISV's. Idle would be stuck at 3000rpm...annoying

Thats what I think Im going to do. No AC whatsoever

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJkU3gW4S2M[/youtube]

The wagan from hell! That is awesome!

Weeoooooh YAAAY! Lol good job man. I think in PA, it would only fail inspection if the wipers didn't work

Lol, no need for a tach with a 20v.

did you eat a lot of paint chips as a kid?

audifreakjim wrote:Lol, no need for a tach with a 20v.

Ouch, that smarts...

This shit just gets more wild as the days progress. Glad to see it running, sounds meaty.



HI I'm ANGRY TACO AND WELCOME TO IDAHO. (Jackass music)