The Project Pad

Stop it. You are making me want one!!

Good! I'm looking forward to completing the first one soon. The biggest hurdle is probably going to be learning pcb software. But it'll be a worthwhile skill to have for the future.

This thin gray stuff is very unpredictable. I've got a good thing going and then all of the sudden I'll get a jam! Dammit. I guess back to the drawing board.

Well, going back to the drawing board (literally) paid off. I searched online quite a bit for a solution for my problem, but there really wasn't one that didn't require buying new parts or modifying something to the point where I wouldn't be able to use it for the regular size filament. The other solution offered up by people was, "you can try it without any modifications, but your mileage may vary." Well, mine definitely did vary. I had luck sometimes, and not others.

As I said before, it seemed that there was a clear issue with the filament buckling. It seemed to me that one could essentially just print a support "tube" to support the filament until it gets to the hot extruder. Well, that's exactly what I did! It took a few tries because I've never attempted printing a part so small (ID is ~0.250 mm, OD is ~3.40 mm). The software doesn't even recognize that wall thickness as something printable, but I managed to get it to cooperate with just the right settings.

Ever since I did this, the prints have been flawless and most importantly, repeatable! Of course, the same result could have been had with the correct size filament and no dicking around LOL.

Some bottom-half gray boxes are the fruits of my labor.



Don't have room for something? Just print a relief in!




New texture


I've tried like hell to break these, and I think I'd have to break out the hammer if I wanted to do any damage. The only part you can break by hand (unless you use some caveman strength) are the little posts that go between the thermocouple connectors. I thought I was going to hurt myself when I tried to break one off honestly, so that coupled with the fact that they will not be stressed due to the way the TC connectors mount, mean that they should never ever break. I would put the strength on par with a molded plastic case in all reality. I'd say development on this is over unless any design changes need to happen due to wire routing or circuit board integration.

Wicked! All these developments are promising! I'm really impressed with the level of detail you're maintaining with this project.

Thanks! I always want to make the best product I can with no compromises. I just made some pretty major progress with circuit board design, so there is hope on that front at least! The way the programs for that work is all very new to me. I'm starting at ZERO!

I printed a top half that's quite nice other than a flaw in the finish that I knew would be there when I started the print (I scuffed the print surface by accident just as it started to print).

I like the gray and I'm quite happy with the surface finish. The bottom half I used in these pictures is a messed up one, but I will print a good one in the morning. Even with a warped bottom, the closure isn't awful. With a straight print it should be presentable. This is the most finished I've had one so far. The only thing missing is the hdmi port as it's being used elsewhere at the moment.

Good shot of the finish

Can you please incorporate Dramarider Inc. into the brand name, somewhere?

Thanks.

PRY4SNO wrote:Can you please incorporate Dramarider Inc. into the brand name, somewhere?

Thanks.

LOL. Yes, definitely.

I can make it say anything you want lol

Had to do another print just to make sure I could get it perfect. I'd be happy to sell this one. I think the closure lines are about as good as can be expected with this technology. They're pretty tight and even all around. Nothing really changed, just got it not to lift off of the build plate this time. Warping is very, very minimal at this point. I'm happy with it. I may try some things in the future just in the interest of perfection, but like I said I find the current parts more than acceptable.

The only thing is I keep forgetting to implement is outputs for the alarm and extra outputs for buttons in case you want to locate them remotely from the screen. Just three more wires that need to exit the box. Probably in a similar fashion as the analog outputs, but on a separate connector.

Here are some pics of the closure, plus one to show the bottom finish.

Haven't made a whole lot of progress on this because I've been caught up with getting promoted at work and transitioning into a slightly different role with more responsibility. However, I am now pretty settled into what I'm doing and have a little time to focus on this. My good friend has agreed to teach me all about the PCB software remotely, so that should help move things along. I hope to have some boards made in the next few months. From that point, its a short path to a finished product.

Congrats!! Definitely looking forward to this, keep us posted.

Chris, I just finished going through this thread.

Let me confirm I want one of these boxes for my B4 AEB including the LCD display. I'll PM you with the spec details when the time comes for a purchase.
Remind me, how do I power the amp? Can use the 12v feed from the VEMS ECU?

ChrisAudi80 wrote:Chris, I just finished going through this thread.

Let me confirm I want one of these boxes for my B4 AEB including the LCD display. I'll PM you with the spec details when the time comes for a purchase.
Remind me, how do I power the amp? Can use the 12v feed from the VEMS ECU?

Yes, you can use any DC power source from 5-20 or so volts. I'll list the final spec when they are complete.

Alright, I will probably use 12v from the ECU feed. I was thinking I don't want any possible interference on my 5v feed to the sensors.
I think I will order these EGT probes with SS weld-on bungs when ready: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=589

EDIT: I might have missed it, but where will the buttons for the LCD screen be? On the PCB for the LCD?

Chris, those probes aren't really great for our application. They're quite long and the quality isn't fantastic (I'm sure given the price). You don't want a tip breaking off and getting lodged in your turbine.

I'd recommend something more along these lines, both for packaging reasons and quality. That is a really nice price they have them for right now too.

Exposed vs non-exposed tip is just a matter of choice. I don't think its necessary.

Anyway, I haven't finalized the button location yet. My plan was to put solder points on the board for the LCD no matter what. That way the buttons can be soldered on there, or wired up remotely depending on what the user chooses. You could put them somewhere on your dash or center console for example. completely separately from everything else.

loxxrider wrote:Chris, those probes aren't really great for our application. They're quite long and the quality isn't fantastic (I'm sure given the price). You don't want a tip breaking off and getting lodged in your turbine.

I'd recommend something more along these lines, both for packaging reasons and quality. That is a really nice price they have them for right now too.

Exposed vs non-exposed tip is just a matter of choice. I don't think its necessary.

Anyway, I haven't finalized the button location yet. My plan was to put solder points on the board for the LCD no matter what. That way the buttons can be soldered on there, or wired up remotely depending on what the user chooses. You could put them somewhere on your dash or center console for example. completely separately from everything else.

Regarding probes, understood. However, I think you forgot to put the link. Do you mean these: http://thesensorconnection.com/egt-prob ... 6-diameter
Or some other?

Oh yeah I did forget, sorry! Yeah, thats a lot better. I was actually looking at some with a 90 degree turn coming from the connection, but either one will work.

loxxrider wrote:Oh yeah I did forget, sorry! Yeah, thats a lot better. I was actually looking at some with a 90 degree turn coming from the connection, but either one will work.

Which one?

This was the one I was looking at.

http://thesensorconnection.com/egt-probe-thermocouples/sensors/exhaust-gas-temperature/egt_individual_harness_probe.shtml

loxxrider wrote:This was the one I was looking at.

http://thesensorconnection.com/egt-probe-thermocouples/sensors/exhaust-gas-temperature/egt_individual_harness_probe.shtml

Thanks. Even more expensive than the one I linked....

BTW, what happened to your FID injector topic? Can't find it. I seem to remember you sold them at a forum discount or something?

Yeah, that's the heavy duty version. It isn't really necessary. You really can't go wrong with The Sensor Connection.

I'm not sure where that topic is. Probably buried by hundreds of threads since it was last posted in.

Yes, I offer a really nice discount for the forum. It ranges depending on the injector you buy, but it is around 15% usually. You can take a look at http://www.ApogeeDynamics.com and when you decide on a size, just get in touch with me and I'll give you the discount code.

loxxrider wrote:Yeah, that's the heavy duty version. It isn't really necessary. You really can't go wrong with The Sensor Connection.

I'm not sure where that topic is. Probably buried by hundreds of threads since it was last posted in.

Yes, I offer a really nice discount for the forum. It ranges depending on the injector you buy, but it is around 15% usually. You can take a look at http://www.ApogeeDynamics.com and when you decide on a size, just get in touch with me and I'll give you the discount code.

Yeah, that's probably it.

15% huh? I would want the 780cc. However, that is down the line.
I really need to take the smallest steps when it comes to budget. It's tight as fark.

The 630s will have to do for now and have enough flow for 280-290 crank even with E85 @ 80% DC.
Unless there would be a VERY clear benefit in the 780s above the Dekas.