The Project Pad

AngryTaco wrote:If you need or want help, feel free to pm me for my number

Might have to do that. Thank you :wink:

hard to tell but this was after first test. Since 2 bottles were different, it threw the measurements off...so we drank 2 more correct bottles and used those :barf:

mounty wrote:

AngryTaco wrote:If you need or want help, feel free to pm me for my number

Might have to do that. Thank you :wink:

Also make sure to change your injector o-rings to the new green style (viton) if you havent done so already

Nice work on the basket! Make sure when you put a new knock sensor in you use a new bolt too and torque it to the required spec. I believe they are stretch bolts but you probably know all this.

Rallyfreak202 wrote:Nice work on the basket! Make sure when you put a new knock sensor in you use a new bolt too and torque it to the required spec. I believe they are stretch bolts but you probably know all this.

stretch?!?!? LMAO arent they 7 ft/lbs?

I wouldnt worry about a new bolt to be honest. I'm still having knock tripping issues but I think it might have to do with my alternator not being fully secured.

Already came that way on the new injectors

Are you running out of fuel? Or hitting fuel cut by chance? After a new cap on my car i took her out and started paying close attention to when/ how it ran when tripping the knock sensor and a few times i was hitting fuel cut. I did manage to see 2.0 on the bar display tho

2.0 = 14.7 psi of boost. I get fuel cut exactly at 15psi. Ill know if I'm running out of fuel once I hook the wideband up sometime next month

I agree if you alternator rattles on its mount that would be the perfect starting point for fixing the knock code. One of my questions a page back for you was going to be what air-fuel ratio you are running, but I forgot. Anyway I would be extremely interested to see what AFR all the 20vt folks are running at full boost, without modified CIS systems that are still setup for 15 PSI max. I would appreciate it very much. With the w/m system off I get 12.2-12.3 AFR at full boost but I had to monkey with certain pressures; from some reading I figure that is a good area to be (rich best torque). With w/m on its minimum pressure settings it dips to mid-11's.

What about using either a narrow band or volt meter spliced into the 02?

Also i found the adjusting screws. Pretty simple. Too cold to do it today tho.

88a5tq wrote:I agree if you alternator rattles on its mount that would be the perfect starting point for fixing the knock code. One of my questions a page back for you was going to be what air-fuel ratio you are running, but I forgot. Anyway I would be extremely interested to see what AFR all the 20vt folks are running at full boost, without modified CIS systems that are still setup for 15 PSI max. I would appreciate it very much. With the w/m system off I get 12.2-12.3 AFR at full boost but I had to monkey with certain pressures; from some reading I figure that is a good area to be (rich best torque). With w/m on its minimum pressure settings it dips to mid-11's.

Where is your nozzle/jet for the water meth?

Back with my 20vt at 20 psi I was at about 11.5 afr according to my lc1

I used the factory intake air temp sensor location and relocated the IAT to just behind the throttlebody. Had to make a plate to bolt up to. Mounty, I guess you could try those ideas but I have no direct experience with them. Idk but I would think the splicing would alter the signal to the ECU very slightly? Thanks 2Philip....errrm I mean thanks Philip . I'm sure you took the proper precautions with ARP equipment and a steel HG or something of that sort. I'm all paper and OEM here. I only started to notice water on my dipstick when I was running mid-10s. I stopped that pretty quick. Taco, when you say your alt isnt secure are you referring to the mounting bracket bolts and where it secures to the block? I think you mentioned to yodasfro in an old thread that you had to get your own nuts and bolts for it from a metric source you had?

sorry wait no. I apologize. it was around 12.
and I was about 20psi at 5000 feet elevation with stock head bolts and gasket. Not original, HG was done sometime in the cars life, but it was OEM paper gasket and bolts, not arp's and Metal HG. I replaced the HG with ARP's and metal HG out of fear of blowing up on a trip.
It later blew on me after I replaced the HG due to a not planed head/block and forgetting to retorque the head studs

That's a sad story man. But its encouraging as I had the head replaced 20k ago from a snapped timing belt. What were you using for engine management?

Oh. Hah. It was on CIS.
and don't worry about it. Blowing the head gasket convinced me to swap out the 20vt and throw in a 20vt on VEMS.
Totally worth it.

I'm getting a sinister idea to turn up my EBC to 20 lol.... I better resist

I was also on a shitty TAP chipped ecu. So there was no fuel cut when it came to boost levels. I had a QLCC chipped ecu and I liked that, but I would hit fuel cut just getting on it sometimes.
I'd be real careful about upping the boost if you don't want to blow up the car. For some reason my give a shit meter never really existed when the 20vt was in the car.

I loved my QLCC chipped ECU. Coupled with the 2bar wastegate spring it was perfect. Never hit fuel cut out until the wastegate diaphram split one day

Light Mounting brackets are done

BASKET IS NOW MOUNTED ON THE CAR!!! PICS TO FOLLOW!!!!!!

Woo-hoo!! This should look sweet!

...

So uhhhh.......

Pics later. I'm going to destroy this knock sensor. Getting tired of the stupid CEL going off. I've tried 3 different sensors with same results. I know the sensors are not bad. Guess I'll make a point to change the Alt bracket tonight