The Project Pad

Hank wrote: Take it for what it is worth, but 034 made 670whp on a 3576r GTX on their TTRS.
Hank

lol ....more stabs at classic 20vt's huh....

the question is, what will the FrankenHank Billet 76mm make on a 35r hotside.... mmm?

Now take this for what it's worth, yesterday Thomas's PTE5862(GTX3576 equivalent) powered 2.5L AAN made 442whp on pump @24psi using Cat Cam 1002335 ... Rob's car did 420ish on pump at 23psi on 7A's so I believe your 35R FrankenHank is right on par with other 35R turbo's... I really believe cams are the key on classic 20vt builds.

Now add Cams to Darin's 30r setup and it could free up some ponies up right before that choke limit.... sooo many possibilities to explore


Thomas's RS2 projekt

Uggghhhh I want 5862. Must.be.happy....

not a stab at all on the classic 20vt. I was actually more unimpressed by the high number on the gtx76r wheel. I think 670whp is pretty high. Granted, they can run the RS in FWD mode pretty easily, which is probably knocking 10-12% drivetrain loss out of hte equation, and it was also on a hub dyno, not a roller. That also takes out the tire rolling resistance.

I actually just bought a urS to do some turbo development on. I'll have more data in the next few months. Still got a lot of love for the classic 20vt

Only thing I am doing different with mine is scaling the compressors to be slightly smaller to give the 30r turbine a chance in hell of flowing the amount of air produced, and also lets me use the 30r compressor cover without modification. This is the reason is pretty much spools on par with an HTA3076r where elsewhere on the webz it is a 200-300 rpm hit on spool. No sense giving up spool if the turbine can use the extra air.

Hank

Picked up another spare 20v head at the tear-apart. $60. Looks like I'm committed to old school….just need a 2.6 built block.

Car is looking sharp man!

I wish mine was that clean.

Looking great!

That's hot

I swore when I was out there that I was going to go for a swim in the salt lake. Then I realized that it smells terrible.

looks great Darin. once you go black, you never go back, right? it just sucks to keep clean and scratch free. did you go 20% on the front windows? lol I'm removing mine on the fronts this season. I'm so sick of being pulled over for that. prob put in legal %age when its stripped. I hate utard over the bs tint law, but in the end, I don't want to be hassled anymore. its your turn to take the highway hogs eyes off me for a change.

Now we only have to figure out who's car is prettiest...of course its mine, no contest.

I have one shade darker than legal on the front, but it matches all around so I've slipped by so far. Black looks awesome when clean, but yeah the good and bad about it is that you have to wash it all the time.

Utah Lake is better to swim in than the GSL Sam. Not only does the GSL stink, but you get swimmer's itch.

Ever since using the 034 billet control arms to move the rear wheels back for 245s and fenders, I haven't been able to reattach the rear sway bar, which has made a noticeable difference in the cars body roll during high speed corners and drifting through intersections. We can't have that.

The newer billet arms come with a drilled and tapped provision in the arm, which mine did and I've been collecting rod ends and various energy bushings to figure it out. I think I'm almost there.




I need a welder to attach the brackets I've been making. Or I need to learn to weld. I also need a garage heater, I don't like laying on the cold concrete.

Completed. Welded the brackets on in a way that allows full access to rear tie rod bolt in the sub frame.

w00t!

Time for some HOONIGAN style videos...

PRY4SNO wrote:w00t!

Time for some HOONIGAN style videos...

Yeah.....I offered to weld it up for him where my welder is at, and he complained it would get a little salt on it. May want to put your dreams of videos on hold till spring...... love ya Darin!

Ha Dave! I was talking to my neighbor after I text'd you and he offered to weld at his shop in Sandy. I took him up on it, but I also drove it down to Provo for some E85. 11 Gallons for $22! Summer tires + sub freezing temps + rear sway bar = a whole lotta sideways action.

Nice... I plan on welding the same on my coupe. how do you feel about the front bar in the rear?

Looking good. I really need to get on putting my upgrade bar in front and one in the rear.

How's the sliding now? Easier?

Right now I don't have anything on the front and this is how the car was when I bought it. It is much more balanced with the bar than without. I'd like to try a small front bar as well.

Yes, sliding is easier.

Looks good man!

Is the bluetooth instal this simple? Connect the adapter to the serial port I was using for the vems gauge?



Am I missing something?

Also connecting the converter for usb and an android device.

I could never get mine working..

audifreakjim wrote:I could never get mine working..

did you feed it 5v on the serial cable in your harness? it needs either that or a voltage supply via that little side connector thing. it has a little light that should lite up inside if its getting power.

Marc wrote:

audifreakjim wrote:I could never get mine working..

did you feed it 5v on the serial cable in your harness? it needs either that or a voltage supply via that little side connector thing. it has a little light that should lite up inside if its getting power.

Marc- mine connected to my vems round gauge. It should have power already right?

Audilard wrote:

Marc wrote:

audifreakjim wrote:I could never get mine working..

did you feed it 5v on the serial cable in your harness? it needs either that or a voltage supply via that little side connector thing. it has a little light that should lite up inside if its getting power.

Marc- mine connected to my vems round gauge. It should have power already right?

depends on how old your ecu is. Pretty old as I recall in your case.

you can find out with a multimeter. Measure for voltage on pin 9 of the serial connector on the ecu. if it has 5v relative to ground its setup to power your adapter directly. if it doesn't the easiest fix is to use the side port with a micro usb to power it. just be super careful when you put the cable into that side port. its a surface mount component and it will break off the board if too much force is applied.