The Project Pad

Haha glad I posted these pics I’m going to go ahead and redo that last one
From this

To this

I took a look at a couple different options again regarding the oil distribution/radiator fitment.
I feel like unless the radiator goes on a diet its gonna be hard to fit in the side area...
Going to put accessories on and test fit next, then take a measurement of the available space.

On the shift linkage here’s what I’ve come up with so far .

I took the stock small chassis linkage and removed the ball, the. Made the threaded adjuster arm for the “cross rod” .
To do this I ordered two rod ends- one RH and one LH thread , two threaded inserts, and a .5” rod from summit . Last time I made a threaded adjuster in my UrQ I used aluminum rod ends and that did not hold up so this time everything is either steel or Cro-Mo.
I then took one rod end which was 5/16-24 and removed the male bolt from it by drilling the top and tapping it out with a punch. I then could replace that with a metric bolt which eliminates any need to tap out or modify the trans. M8x1.25 fits right through .




Sooo hopefully it works because In order for the rod to be adjustable I can not put a bend in it for more clearance on the tunnel ,
I can however if needed change how it mounts to the transmission or shift linkage as far as moving that forward or down within reason. However I’m stoked on the way it turned out , if it works no one will see it but me , but it looks cool as shit . I did these little micro welds starting with .035 rod






For the trans end , I’m going to make some high misalignment spacers. This is all I had for use now are these small bits . You can see the difference in angle with and without .


But either way I may have to move the attachment point forward so that the rod is not at an odd angle . I never got any linkage with the FYF so I don’t know what was there but, WRC pointed out I should be shooting for a perpendicular angle to the shift linkage ,
So I may make a bracket that does this . Which looks like what the Iroz bracket they used to make was for



.

Cool welds! Here is some info from my setup. I've since refined the bracket. Like mentioned, you want to get the arm perpendicular to the joint in neutral so you don't have different gates in the odd gears vs even gears.
https://www.theprojectpad.com/search.ph ... sf=msgonly
https://www.theprojectpad.com/search.ph ... sf=msgonly

Yeah I kind of overlooked that , but Wiley pointed it out to me that it should be 90 degrees. I got kind of sidetracked trying to use the existing hole in the trans and forgot about the purpose of that little arm .

But I know I have seen how you replaced that cup with the FK8 and I think I am going to do the same thing as well. I thought mine was in good enough shape and it turns out that it’s not great. Plastic is all broken . I want to tighten it up and get that rifle bolt action precise feel

Ok so the shift linkage is on revision 1 . I think this gets me the angle I want and I can drill more holes if needed but , I wont know for a while if it works.
Back to the old used bumper to get steel from .

Have the intercooler now. Its the center out version, its going to be tight but I think I can make it work with a throttle body in there somewhere. So here goes. If not I will have to remake one end tank.

I’m going to try and mount my intercooler right here . what makes it difficult is, not only the space constraints but I don’t have an rs2 front bumper yet to test fit with . So I can make a simple bracket to mount it for now get it vertical, tack in place. then I have to figure out how far forward to go with it .If I want to go any closer to the engine, I need to change the crank pulley out for the shorter version from the later 2.5 (which I've been meaning to do)
Like I can either go as far toward the core support as possible or as close to the engine as possible but I’m not sure which will work better in the end.
So I need to go out and look at some things, maybe test fit a stock bumper to see how things line up ,


I’m also wondering with the intercooler being aluminum and core support mounted directly to the body, if I should use any sort of isolator for vibration. Like a piece of Delrin? or would that even do anything.

Not that I would change where it is based on this, but the TTRS pulley is flat and doesn't have that snub on it. It's not a horrible price either.

audifreakjim wrote:Not that I would change where it is based on this, but the TTRS pulley is flat and doesn't have that snub on it. It's not a horrible price either.

I haven’t looked at the ttrs specifically but I had ordered one of these which is just from a newer Jetta 07k 105 243 B or F ... the TTRS looks like 07k 105 243 H and I’ll have to look into if/how it’s different from what I ordered
I had also thought about maybe getting a fluidampr when I build the engine and have everything balanced. .

The TTRS is a fluidamper style balancer. For what you get, it's the way to go if you want to stay 5-rib. If you ant a 6-rib setup, go with a fluidamper from Issam.

audifreakjim wrote:The TTRS is a fluidamper style balancer. For what you get, it's the way to go if you want to stay 5-rib. If you ant a 6-rib setup, go with a fluidamper from Issam.

Oh ok yeah I see exactly what you mean now. I guess I haven't decided to convert the belt yet because , well, I mean I was hoping to run it as is but I am just a little worried about the radiator fitting on the side. And the reality is it has to because with this intercooler/intake choice I can't put it in front now So I really want to make it work there
IF i decide I want to make more room for that , then the first logical thing to do would be start by moving the alternator to the passenger side where there is tons of room.
I feel like I recall hank had almost a stock size radiator in his, so I know its possible.
Anyway here is how it looks with the acessories on.
With oil filter


With filter relocation piece instead .



So I don’t know , I’ll have to do some head scratching on it . It’s almost like the alternator is a bigger hinderance than the oil block.

Looking great !!

I'm planning on putting the alternator on the passenger side also.

looking forward to updates

highlander69 wrote:Looking great !!

I'm planning on putting the alternator on the passenger side also.

looking forward to updates

Yeah on my urq I put the alternator lower left and PS pump lower right and it makes for a really sweet setup , but with this engine there is a little more room so more/different configurations can be obtained .
For example front mount radiator in B2 without even cutting the core support , like Sean’s has. I think Jimolde has that same setup too.
So lots of options or ways to go really. I don’t know if you plan to do dry sump but that takes a little of the space.

Now that I’ve got this intercooler and trying to do a sweet low piping , less bends setup like Jim’s and the old Audi sport cars did, it kind of rules out the front mount rad unless I go in front of the intercooler which would likely still be a possibility if I needed it to .

I can’t be that far off, though, because for example here is the stock rad for comparison. If I go with a super tilt it would fit - not planning on using it but I think that going just a bit smaller will work as long as I can get some sizable fans and ducting to go in there.







I guess I should think about it this way.
I have two options,
Option 1 , "Fab" a cardboard box down to size and figure out exactly how big of a radiator I can get on the side there and start with that/

Did the sport Quattro have a notch in the frame rail where the radiator sat?

Option 2, If I want the alternator out of the way I can't move just the alternator, (I believe?), due to the belt setup. So in that case I would , move the alternator to bottom left, and go electric MR2 power steering and Electric water pump. Good option , requires some re work, no big deal. But If I ever decide to do a dry sump I wouldn't be able to put it there then.

Option 3 Audi sport alternator in the back seat

I looked a little at the radiator today again.
Made this box for size. The width of it is around 2.5" .








Punched those dimensions into Summit for a vertical flow and one interest one that popped up is the EVO radiator. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio- ... /overview/
The only thing that throws me off, core thickness is stated. 2.050" but it stated "overall thickness 4.380"
If its just the end tanks I think I can make that work.
Radiator Material: Aluminum
Radiator Style: Downflow
Overall Width (in): 14.000 in.
Overall Height (in): 19.500 in.
Overall Thickness (in): 4.380 in.
Radiator Finish: Natural
Core Width (in): 13.380 in.
Core Height (in): 15.200 in.
Core Thickness (in): 2.050 in.
Row Quantity: 3
Inlet Size: 1.380 in.

Something to think about. Other than that I can just get a core and make the end tanks myself and hope I remember how to weld aluminum.

Yes, the SQ had a notch, and that's what Hank did

audifreakjim wrote:Yes, the SQ had a notch, and that's what Hank did

Ahhhhh interesting. I was trying to find pics on the internets, and could not find one but I'll keep looking. I typically would never even think of modding the body but in the name of cooling I might consider it. Ive seen it done and then the brace added that goes from the strut tower to the frame rail.
speaking of the SQ I wish I knew where I could get these radiator end tanks and graft them on!

I think I finally have the manifold finished now , except for that I need to order a stainless bung for EGT.












Have to figure out which way to orientate the throttle body

Looking good all around! I can't wait until I'm done chassis prep and can start working on some of this fun stuff.

vt10vt wrote:Looking good all around! I can't wait until I'm done chassis prep and can start working on some of this fun stuff.

Yeah man I have to commend you for being able to do all that stuff and having the patience .
I have a couple urq I can’t do anything with until I do the body/paint/rust repair type work and I just don’t know how I’m gonna get it done . So time consuming , and labor intensive .

Looks awesome !!

Tried to order that rad but got the wrong one , they sent me a half rad for a Honda Civic , single pass . It’s just to small.. about a 14x14 core. So canceled the order, sending it back , hopefully the “right “ one will be here in like a week , and by “right” I mean I still have to see if it fits my needs. I will give that one attempt before I just order a custom core.



In other news a friend found me a b4 hood Its silver not pearl and needs some love but its a great find. Unfortunately I don’t have the two upper/outer pieces over the headlight that the center core support attaches to, so I will have to get em somehow.



I forgot to post this but this is the progress on the intake Side.
I started with a small piece , was a failed velocity stack I had left over from my URQ- I tried bead rolling it and it cracked. So took the flange from that. Used a vibrant 3" cast elbow, added a 2.5 ID by 3" piece inside, welded that into the elbow, then smoothed it over to make a reducer. Then on to that I used 0.065" alum. 3" ID tube.

I will have to find a bettter filter , whats pictured is left over from my 1990 Dodge Cummins . For reference its about a about 6" Dia by 8" 'length cylinder and it probably would fit. So when I make it to the shop again I'll work on the Turbo-> IC charge pipe and maybe start to look at how I can do the cooling pipes.

Haven’t been able to work on this in a bit . But for a chance to do a few things .
I received the radiator and test fit , made a simple bracket to hold it in place . It’s not perfect as far as optimizing the space I have , so here’s what I’m going to do . Go with it for now , try it out . If it doesn’t work next stop is custom core and at this point I know exactly what I can fit .





The rad has an inlet center bottom and an outlet top right . The center bottom inlet isn’t perfect but I may be able to run a 90/ell up with it and have it not interfere with the fans if they’re slim . There is nothing on the front and that’s ok because I can’t think of anything I would need on the front .


Now I need to figure out the flow Of cooling . I’m thinking from the rear of the head i have two outlets , one goes straight to heater core and one goes straight to radiator bottom inlet but with a tee off to the expansion tank .

From the radiator top out into thermostat housing

From the heater core into thermostat housing

Turbo cooling outlet into thermostat housing is the only place I can think it will go .

So maybe it will look something like this .

As opposed to the stock one

I’ve worked a little on the intake piping . Had to stop as I’m missing one 3” elbow but here’s how it will look .

2.5 adapter on turbo inlet

2.5-> 3” cone -> 3” to intercooler. One ell and it will de done .

L



And started on the down pipe






I cut this slash cut at a 35 degree Angle as that is the farthest my cutting fixture can do , and I’ll tell you what I don’t have any idea how I got so lucky but it was almost perfect .






I never mentioned this but I wonder , instead of a loud ass blowoff valve I should be able to just run like an OE plastic 710N , I hope. I need to figure out what to do there before I finish the intake piping , Not sure of any reason why I couldn’t that but there might be one .
I know typically when running on speed density people change from recirc BOV to a vent to atmosphere , because you aren’t losing metered air anymore .
But would it setup in a recirc configuration hurt anything ?

wow, just beautiful !

Yeah some majorly awesome progress going on in here.