The Project Pad

I have (possibly) the same creak! It's absolutely infuriating at times, particularly with small, shallow movements. It only recently showed up, but I figured it was one of the bushing in the trapezoidal arm. I never got a chance to track it down.

I will take the wheel off and look more this week. I'll let you know what I figure out

creaking is normally ball joints - but since you said the rear I wonder if either of you did the tie rods! The upper strut mount would be another place to check too... wd40 isn't going to help anything haha.

Lol it does seem to make me feel proactive

Actually I would say it does sound like the ball joint (oops I mean tie rods) area using my echo echo location. Couldn't hurt to replace anyway

They're really easy - and they come with control arms (Haha!)

Haven't done mine but is definitely one of the most important pieces of suspension.

Those are my list now. May try doing myself with my brothers help.

I think I'd better post up the excerpt from last night's log when I did LC. It was SCARY! Only mad 132 kpa or something and was at 1.09 lambda. Made a huge gunshot sound once then the rpm's seemingly dove. This is all IIRC right now of course lol. I'll put it up soon here.

The LC session I did more recently was more correct. I will need advice on whether the first log shows a defect in ecu logic for the LC function. Please hold...

https://youtu.be/deNprp3Kz14
I'm firing my videographer

Sounds much better!

It certainly does
Sadly though it spun the comp wheel about 30 degrees off alignment so I'm pulling in right now to realign and torque up again. Maybe I'd better add like 10 more inch pounds or something?

Lol must be one of those new style quick-release turbos

Comp wheel looks like it was spinning under the nut as there's a dish shaped impression on it. Perhaps this all started with the shaft being malleable or weak? Idk but it didn't take alot of force to spun it apart like this.

And before anyone else says it...

oh SNAP!
Monday priority: order both pieces pre-balanced and resume beating of car

Ouch.

I'd say that's user error (maybe someone in the past, or yours. Who knows). Holsets don't just fall apart.

Ya it's scary. I don't really know if CLR will mess with metallurgy or if it's my torque method. I just don't want to see it happen again. I would like to convince you all that I caught a tragedy before it happened though

I'd definitely say you did! If I had to guess, I'd say torque method.

Over torqued the nut perhaps? Stretched the shaft beyond yield point and therefore not enough elasticity to clamp it all together? Just my 2p as a former turbine engine tech.

Onwards and upwards. I think this car is essentially telling you it wants more turbo. Every time it died, you went bigger. There should be no exception to the rule.

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Lol. Yes, exception to the wind..

I'm a bit concerned now after you mentioned the over torque issue. I used my old friends wrench that he said was calibrated recently. I heeded the lower torque recommended for the 6 pt nut from holset literature. The comp wheel was spinning on the shaft.. ALOT! It effectively widdled the poor thing down from the looks of it while apart. Its sad really :(

I'm afraid it will happen again with new hardware though. This time I'll use my new 12 pt nut from the rebuild kit. Everything will be balanced from the manufacturer as well. Feck this noise lol. I cry inside.

One last post for the Sabbath. Assuming everything else was correct during assembly, is there any other explanation for this occurrence? Is my stock 710 DV not flowing enough during pedal lift to keep stress down on the turbo shaft? Should I run a 2nd one post-intercooler too maybe? I wander if LC could've done this.
I am going to replace this scrap metal but I am on the fence about getting a wicked wheel compressor upgrade. $229 aint nothing to scoff at if theres even a remote chance of this happening again!

I recall having to soak the shaft nut for a good long while in CLR because of how much rust was on its upper faces. Nothing underneath but maybe it could've messed with the nut in some chemical way. Also I recall the nut being difficult to SPIN on (not cross-threaded) even before reaching the point of actual torque. I attributed it to the red Loctite somehow starting to cure. Lastly, I noticed that the nut was one "face" off from when I originally took it apart. It would've been about 30 degrees off I guess. Perhaps there was some sort of issue there and that's that. The 50mm baby hx35 I rebuilt first was so easy to thread together. I had a brand new 12 pt nut for it thought. Never gonna make that mistake again.

Wickedwheel it?

I don't think it is anything other than overtorqued or something wrong with the threads on the shaft. It's really hard to kill a Holset. There isn't a 710 DV in the world that could make one come apart lol

Just thinking (too much).

I bit the bit the bullet and ordered a fresh rebuild kit seeing as the oil slinger was scored from the comp wheel dancing all over its face. Oh well, it would've cost half that price to have a $9 slinger sent 2nd day and my amazon prime trial is still in affect lol. Free 2nd day shipping! I'm getting held up by the dam turbine until Thursday as it is.

Oh and the 5k developed such an extreme coolant leak TODAY that I took it off the road to investigate :(
No wheels until Friday basically.

88a5tq wrote:One last post for the Sabbath. Assuming everything else was correct during assembly, is there any other explanation for this occurrence? Is my stock 710 DV not flowing enough during pedal lift to keep stress down on the turbo shaft? Should I run a 2nd one post-intercooler too maybe? I wander if LC could've done this.
I am going to replace this scrap metal but I am on the fence about getting a wicked wheel compressor upgrade. $229 aint nothing to scoff at if theres even a remote chance of this happening again!

I recall having to soak the shaft nut for a good long while in CLR because of how much rust was on its upper faces. Nothing underneath but maybe it could've messed with the nut in some chemical way. Also I recall the nut being difficult to SPIN on (not cross-threaded) even before reaching the point of actual torque. I attributed it to the red Loctite somehow starting to cure. Lastly, I noticed that the nut was one "face" off from when I originally took it apart. It would've been about 30 degrees off I guess. Perhaps there was some sort of issue there and that's that. The 50mm baby hx35 I rebuilt first was so easy to thread together. I had a brand new 12 pt nut for it thought. Never gonna make that mistake again.

Wickedwheel it?

This could be an issue too. Is it a self locking nut? If there was a fair amount of torque just to move the nut initially then you are essentially subtracting this from the final torque thus not getting the shaft stretch or preload on the assembly. This is called run on torque, and it can be very critical in rotating assemblies that rely on on preload and clamp-up friction to hold things together, IE no splines \ keyways etc.

What is the torque figure holset give for the nut, and can you recall roughly how much resistance you felt?

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88a5tq wrote:One last post for the Sabbath. Assuming everything else was correct during assembly, is there any other explanation for this occurrence? Is my stock 710 DV not flowing enough during pedal lift to keep stress down on the turbo shaft? Should I run a 2nd one post-intercooler too maybe? I wander if LC could've done this.
I am going to replace this scrap metal but I am on the fence about getting a wicked wheel compressor upgrade. $229 aint nothing to scoff at if theres even a remote chance of this happening again!

I recall having to soak the shaft nut for a good long while in CLR because of how much rust was on its upper faces. Nothing underneath but maybe it could've messed with the nut in some chemical way. Also I recall the nut being difficult to SPIN on (not cross-threaded) even before reaching the point of actual torque. I attributed it to the red Loctite somehow starting to cure. Lastly, I noticed that the nut was one "face" off from when I originally took it apart. It would've been about 30 degrees off I guess. Perhaps there was some sort of issue there and that's that. The 50mm baby hx35 I rebuilt first was so easy to thread together. I had a brand new 12 pt nut for it thought. Never gonna make that mistake again.

Wickedwheel it?

This could be an issue too. Is it a self locking nut? If there was a fair amount of torque just to move the nut initially then you are essentially subtracting this from the final torque thus not getting the shaft stretch or preload on the assembly. This is called run on torque, and it can be very critical in rotating assemblies that rely on on preload and clamp-up friction to hold things together, IE no splines \ keyways etc.

What is the torque figure holset give for the nut, and can you recall roughly how much resistance you felt?

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133 lb/in and I recall some good resistance
I remember feeling uncomfortable about it and thinking that the nut will likely be a problem in the future. I think the threads somehow lost their original form after the first disassembly. First time I've reused the nut let alone a 6 pt. I'm gonna say we the problem here. The first holset didn't have that resistance during assembly.

I think there's your problem. That's not a great deal of torque, and whatever resistance there was, subtracting that likely rendered the clamp-up preload incapable of holding the wheel on the shaft when it was loaded up.

Lessons learned.

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