The Project Pad

On the Ur-q I use the B5 S4TT rotors, they have the proper "shallow" hat.
In my app I turn them down to 295mm but I believe the stock diam is 314mm.

HTH

ralleyquattro wrote:On the Ur-q I use the B5 S4TT rotors, they have the proper "shallow" hat.
In my app I turn them down to 295mm but I believe the stock diam is 314mm.

HTH

Stock B5S4 diameter is 321... I have a spare new set if anyone is interested...

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mushasho wrote:

ralleyquattro wrote:On the Ur-q I use the B5 S4TT rotors, they have the proper "shallow" hat.
In my app I turn them down to 295mm but I believe the stock diam is 314mm.

HTH

Stock B5S4 diameter is 321... I have a spare new set if anyone is interested...

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Thanks for the correction!

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated. I think I got lucky and ordered the correct rotors. The Zimmerman Sports 312x25mm are perfect fitment. I finished welding and cleaning up the right side upright its ready to go back in.

I also finished up the rear end 5 lug swap. I redrilled the stock 4000 rotors and those should work just fine. The Audi 200 (auto) 5 lug hubs that I sourced from a guy in Denver turned out to be kind of messed up. My wife picked them up in Denver from a guy and after I got them pressed into the housings with new hubs, I realized that 3 and 4 of the threads on each hub were mangled from someone cross-threading them. Annoying. I'm sure the guy didn't know this? but just another hiccup. So I bought a tap set from Harbor Freight because I couldn't find a 14 x 1.5mm fine thread tap anywhere in town. Now I have an entire suitcase of every tap imaginable, I'm sure it'll come in handy someday.

I also installed SS braided Brake lines in the rear because I'll be re-bleeding the entire system anyway.

The only other thing I'm in need of at this point is an adjustable right (passenger) side tie rod. I need this to be able to use the new MK2 Golf Outer tie rod that I ordered for the Porsche BBK upgrade. The existing outer tie rod is junk anyway. It appears that the offset is ever so slightly adjusted forward with the MK2 tie rods. Anyone have a spare, right side, adjustable tie rod assembly they can offload to me?

Hey Ross, meant to reply to this yesterday.

I had real trouble sourcing a tie rod/tie rod end. I replaced the driver side outer tie rod end (is that it in the picture? That thing literally has like 4k km on it!!!). But when it came to the passenger side, the TRE I got had female threads on it. But the tie rod end screws into the tie rod on the car. So then I thought wtf, I'll just get a whole tie rod then. So I went and replaced it only to find out that the pitch was totally wrong and way smaller. The steering arm hole was much larger. The passenger side didn't need to be replaced because it was tight so I left it in but replaced the boot and greased it. I simply wanted to replace it because I had no idea how old it was. Since it was fine, I gave up on it at that point and figured I'd have to dive into it again at some point.

So to summarize, I have no idea what that tie rod setup is. Seems really weird to me, maybe someone before me did it. Sorry I can't be of more help. Looks like the MK2 has the right size pitch on it though so that's a start. I believe I gave you the entire tie rod, can you thread the MK2 end onto that tie rod?

Awesome progress. Brakes look so sick! I'm pretty jelly you are getting that all dealt with.

Hey Matt, thanks for that info. I had totally forgotten about that tie rod that was in the trunk. I went to remove the boat anchor sub in there and found the heater box with the tie rod hidden inside. I installed that with the outer MK2 tie rod end and it seems to be the right fit! So I have the passenger side all tidied up and ready for a bleed. Rear 5 bolt hub conversion and SS lines are installed. Just waiting on a new wheel bearing for the driver side and I'll have it back together.

I also got the VC, fuel rail and intake manifold back from powder coat today. Finally. Looks great, I'm super happy with how its going back together. I should have that other wheel bearing tomorrow and then I'm all set. This car has been down for weeks now, I can't wait to get it back on the road and just enjoy the drive. For now.

That caliper tho!

rossschnell wrote:I also finished up the rear end 5 lug swap. I redrilled the stock 4000 rotors and those should work just fine. The Audi 200 (auto) 5 lug hubs that I sourced from a guy in Denver turned out to be kind of messed up. My wife picked them up in Denver from a guy and after I got them pressed into the housings with new hubs, I realized that 3 and 4 of the threads on each hub were mangled from someone cross-threading them. Annoying. I'm sure the guy didn't know this? but just another hiccup. So I bought a tap set from Harbor Freight because I couldn't find a 14 x 1.5mm fine thread tap anywhere in town. Now I have an entire suitcase of every tap imaginable, I'm sure it'll come in handy someday.

I also installed SS braided Brake lines in the rear because I'll be re-bleeding the entire system anyway.

Ross,

Im the guy who sold you the hubs. I apologize for the hubs. I assumed that they were in good shape. Since the only time they were removed were after I took the engine off the auto 200. If there's anything I can do to make it up, let me know.

Scubagli:
I know it, I definitely should've done it at the same time. I jumped into this thing head first and had to cut this first project cycle off at some point. That'll happen this winter though. Question is, Red or Black calipers on a Tornado Red car?

MHCAudi:
No worries, its all good! My wife said you were a super nice dude and I kind of assumed/hoped you didn't know. Plus, that stuff happens when you're sourcing 30yr old, used car parts. Even with an $80 tap set I'm still cheaper than buying new hubs. Thanks for chiming in.

Anyone have a recommendation for a new proportioning valve? This one has developed a small leaky drip. Can I rebuild this thing or is it worth doing an aftermarket unit like Wilwood?

The black looks great, glad another great guy got this car, my buddy Mike did the original swAp, coilovers, euro lights, put the type A's on it...he is not really participating in he car hobby anymore but if you need any info I can get you in touch...

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rossschnell wrote:Scubagli:
I know it, I definitely should've done it at the same time. I jumped into this thing head first and had to cut this first project cycle off at some point. That'll happen this winter though. Question is, Red or Black calipers on a Tornado Red car?

MHCAudi:
No worries, its all good! My wife said you were a super nice dude and I kind of assumed/hoped you didn't know. Plus, that stuff happens when you're sourcing 30yr old, used car parts. Even with an $80 tap set I'm still cheaper than buying new hubs. Thanks for chiming in.

That's good, I was just trying to be helpful when your wife came to pick them up. If you ever need help or a hand let me know. I'll be more then happy to lend a hand. I still got both 200's in case you need anything else.

Tilton makes a metric lever type valve which installs cleanly

http://forums.quattroworld.com/9080/msgs/984.phtml

Thanks for the info, Ed. Looks like that's the way to go.

So I've run into another snag, I guess I ordered the wrong ball joints. The 19mm euro B3 balljoints that I ordered, that took forever to arrive from Europe, definitely have the wrong offset. That's irritating. When I placed the order on RockAuto I found the part number that said "AWD" and ordered it up. Turns out it throws the entire strut housing about 1" too far forward so that the driveshaft hits the sway bar mount. Fudge I was really thinking I'd have this car back together by now. So I've re-ordered what I believe to be the correct ball joints. Part #'s (Rt side #893407366F) (Lt Side #893407365F). I didn't notice until I went to mount a wheel and it hit the back of the fender well.

Good grief. I just want to drive the car.

Should have let me know what you were after. I wouldve provided you with the correct part numbers. That or just make a new sway bar mount setup. I'd be interested in those wrong balljoints too as I could probably find a way to make them work on my 4kq


Edit....wait why not just flip them to the other side and move the wheels/assembly forward for more caster or do you want less caster for quicker steering?

you probably already know, but the big brake in the photo is upside down (bleeders on the bottom).

Nice to see you posting here, cool you are getting everything in top shape. Enjoy the time you're working on it, it will be worth it once you're back out driving it.

Thanks everyone for the help!

Marc: having the calipers upside down hadn't quite registered in my small brain just yet. Maybe I would've noticed when I went to bleed them, or possibly if I hadn't installed them at 2am. That's one reason why I post so many pictures, so that all you guys who are smarter than I, can tell me what I did wrong. Pretty much every car project is a new one for me, learning lots all the time.

Taco: I actually tried flipping the ball joints around and its too much offset either way. If I run them forward they hit the swaybar mount and are too close to the front inner fender. If I run them backwards the wheel hits the rear of the fender. I thought about attempting to hack them up and reposition/weld the ball to the right orientation but I just don't trust my own fabrication skills for a crucial area like that. I'm sure you could make them work though? Let me know.

I also have a set of front Audi 200 uprights that someone could use for the exact swap I'm doing now. I bought the them from MHCAudi for the hubs and didn't really need the rest of the assembly. I have the uprights in their entirety (minus the hubs of course). To someone that wanted them for this 5 lug conversion, I could chop them in half to save on shipping and basically almost give them away to whomever needed them.

Scubagli: Ok, ok, you planted the seed. I pulled the calipers this morning and dropped them off for powdercoat. Might as well do it right the first time, eh?

I thought I would share this teaser that we just shot at the local kart track. Its for a mtb/lifestyle video I'm working on completing. The Audi will be in the video if I ever get it up and running. For now, check this out! We did a bit of filming with the R1 slicks, and the remainder with a pair of cheapo all season tires so I could drift and smoke the tires and make loud obnoxious noises for the camera. I've never actually attempted drifting before, its kinda fun. I also don't have an e-brake installed in the M3 so it was all throttle control. Tricky.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9G1zPHzWP0

rossschnell wrote:Marc: having the calipers upside down hadn't quite registered in my small brain just yet. Maybe I would've noticed when I went to bleed them, or possibly if I hadn't installed them at 2am. That's one reason why I post so many pictures, so that all you guys who are smarter than I, can tell me what I did wrong. Pretty much every car project is a new one for me, learning lots all the time.

Also make sure that the piston sizes are correct front/back so you know you have left/right on correctly (small piston is the leading piston; or top one in your case). You can then swap the crossover tube and bleeders if you need to.

Gotcha. I really need to get some big reds for the v8q.....

I'm really liking the porsche brakes everyone has....

Why are you using left strut on the right side (and vice versa)?
On the typ44/C4 the caliper is on the front side not trailing.
You have your struts on wrong sides.. you might get away by swapping the ball joints from left to right to offset the strut the opposite way.
However from the start they should have been right way around.

I believe he swapped them so the caliper could be at the back. Better weight distribution I don't see why it'd be an issue.

I was planning to do it the same way.