The Project Pad

looking good Taco, nice to see another 20vt 4K. Will be a fun car.

Head is back together, studs were prepped, and got the head on the block. Now I just gotta find either a reducer or a 3/8" clicker from work to complete the last torque setting on the studs.

Well managed to pull a real STUPID last night. Was putting the cam back together and didnt realized I had #2 and #3 cam bearing cap on backwards. I thought everything faced a certain way, didnt pay attention, and managed to break both caps (have spares), but also manged to crack where the stud goes into the head......off to the welder :curses: :x

fiddle sticks.....realized I fucked the caps up too. I don't think I can use the caps from the other head I have. Guess my turbo head is going in for fresh seat grind.

nevermind, found a place that can line bore the "other" caps and fix the cracks I made. I'm a fiddle sticking idiot

Nevermind....again....guess I'm just going to have the good original head machined. Fresh seat grind, and possible .020" mill. Cheaper to go that route vs. fixing my mistake

Dude. That sucks. I recently did a guys Honda B16a head because he ran it with the caps in the wrong place and backwards. The head was unsalvageable.

who dares edit taco's rage?!

AngryTaco wrote:who dares edit taco's rage?!

Huh? :tard:

someone changed my pg-13 language in previous rage posts to that of G

lol

That really sucks. At least you figured it out before you put it all together and tried to run the engine.

Yeah, i dont think anything wouldve happened at first but down the line something wouldve

live and learn

Egg cartons, my man! With a head you can keep each part exactly how it was removed and label it easily. Good for valves, tappets, all that stuff.

Lessons for next time is what I always tell myself.

-Rog

Yeah....I know. $280 mistake though

ouch, thats an expensive lesson. I feel for you.

Need opinions.

Is it safe for me to mount my pyrometer after the turbo?
I may have a line on an LM-1 Kit for $100 and thinking that needs to get mounted behind the turbo too?

The following gauges are being hooked up:

Oil Pressure
Pyrometer
Wideband
Boost Gauge

egt needs to be pre turbine in the manifold collector to be useful

My2000apb is correct. It is normally mounted in the manifold just outside of cyl #1

centrally mounted in teh collector

Attachment ( 31791 ) : egt bung welded on.jpg

I'm pretty sure it's a known deal that if you mount it after the turbo you simply add 200° to the reading. I've seen this tested with one pre and one post, so it seems pretty consistent.

Many people do it post turbo in the unlikely event that the probe breaks off. You definitely wouldn't want that going through the turbo.

Go with whichever you feel more comfortable with, I would say.

-Rog

EDIT: Of course it should be said that an EGT gauge is really one of the "too late" measurements. Damaging heat occurs faster than you'll be able to react. Good to know when you've toasted it I guess.

And yes, I have one too, as you probably saw in my thread. Better than nothing I think.

Maybe use the stock bung on the exhaust manifold for the pyrometer (where the stock O2 sensor is located). Maybe get rid of the stock narrow band o2 sensor and just use the narrowband output from the wideband for the ECU. My understanding is the wideband needs to be located downstream of the turbo anyway. On my car I just use the bung on the aftermarket catalytic converter for the wide band.

Thats actually what I was thinking of doing GTJeff. I just don't remember there being a pre-turbo bung in the EM. Then again I'm not looking at it right now.

its not preturbo its wg recirc

put the wb02 about a foot past the wg recric

Ok figured out how I'm doing it.

On a good note, the original head is getting a valve seat grind. Decided NOT to have it decked .020".

And.....wheels are being powdercoated