Loxxrider's 200 20v Revver: See you on "The Project Pad"

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:02 am

yeah, I figured it out now. Marc and I talked...I would have gone thru Marc in the first place, but like usual, that info came to me way too late. I ordered and paid for the setup back in August.

3bAudios · Post by **3bAudios** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:21 am

Your car is super nice man, way to go on the VEMS i'll probably get one from Marc as well when i go standalone on the 90q...seeing your 200 20v makes me miss my old one, although your is way cleaner than mine was thats for sure

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 10:34 am

thanks man, I appreciate the compliments as always

I'd love to see how your 90 comes along. It would definitely be nice to have this setup in a small chassis car.

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:36 pm

if you go air suspension, you'll need to do some modding to the front suspension to get it to drop as low. the rear will practically sit on the ground. i like the headliner, did you use faux suede or what? where did you get it and how much did it cost?

death 4kqt · Post by **death 4kqt** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 2:51 pm

:stupid:

i also really like the headliner, i need to redo the one in my 90 and I'd like it to come out like that :thumbsup:

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 7:14 pm

Thanks for the headliner compliments guys.

Its real suede...I got it at Jo-ann fabrics locally. It was originally $22 a yard, but I got lucky and found the gray I wanted on the sale rack.

I got it for $3.50 a yard!!!!!!!!!

I still have a lot left to play with.

I haven't made much progress on the car lately (aside from buying 7a cams and spare head from Dana, but it is still progress.

I was really set on buying the RS's...but my friend wont get back to me about them, so I think its sort of a lost cause now. That means I will set bags off into the future. I would still like to get a nice set of coils on though in the meantime.

I also need some brakes...but now I wont have the RS's to make it happen. I suppose they will come in the near future either way. I just need a set of wheels to accommodate them.

The main progression right now involves getting some time on the TIG welder (that is going to happen in the next few weeks), and then if all goes well, I really want to buy one. That would truly set everything into motion. I'd have projects to keep me busy for months on that thing, and the car would be closer to completion with each one.

Let me know if you guys have any Q's about the headliner, etc.

I now know everything there is to know in that area :-D

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 7:51 pm

heh, I went to Jo-Ann today to get some fabric for my friend's E36 M3 headliner...I decided to use the same thing for my lower interior

We also chose to use some black corduroy for his pillars. It looks so nice.

I just need to decide where I want to separate the gray suede from the black fuzzy stuff in mine.

I think I want to do the dash in the gray suede. The upper pillars are all the gray, and the lower B-pilar is now in the black. The area I really can't figure out what I want to do with is the doors. There really isn't a good place to make a separation line. I was thinking about possibly splitting it in a sort of arbitrary place on the door...but one which would correspond to where the b-pillar switches over.

Ideas??

s2 on the way · Post by **s2 on the way** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:39 pm

after seeing yours, I'm definetly gonna have to redo my headliner....looks awesome

the whole vems idea sounds nice, it sure would be nice not to have to touch any of the stock wiring really....

if you need calipers 911pcar.com has em for 500 a set (seems like a great price to me)

can't wait to see how much fun you have with the tig welder

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:44 pm

Thanks

VEMS should def be a nice setup. I'll keep the thread updated with my impressions of course.

I would definitely like to get a nice brake setup, so I'll check that out. I just need to know what to do to fit them (not talking about wheels). I know nothing about brakes yet.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:09 am

Well, I took almost everything that the dash consists of out...except the big top part.

I took out the glove box, panel under steering wheel, wood trim, etc...but that top part is still in.

**edit** figured it out...after breaking something

Interior is still up in the air. I got the two fuzzy lower panels in, and I'm a little unsure what I think of them...I do like them, but I'm not sure if they are right for the car.

Either way, I think I am going to go thru with it because its easy to re-do whenever I get tired of it or want to do something classier. It will look good though, and feel even cooler

I really want to avoid doing the top of the dash in the fuzzy stuff. I would so much rather do it in the gray suede. I think it looks much nicer. I was thinking I could do that gray, then the portion where the air controls, etc. are could be done in suede also. Then I would put the fuzzy stuff where the carpet comes up to meet the center console/air control area. Then the glove box and under-steering-wheel area would be the black fuzzy. I would then essentially have a gray stripe going down the middle which I think would be kinda neat.

The only oddball thing is the doors. There just isn't a good place to transition with them. I'll take a pic later to explain.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:18 am

Fuzzy anything in any vehicle except a van is dumb looking IMO. I've seen some old vans that it "worked" in, but that was it. Kind of like when guys put fuzzy stuff on bikes they dumped, it looks :tard: . But that's MO.

I'd do suede with stuff painted high gloss black with some silver trim (like the gauge face trim rings?).

5k panels may work better for you if you want a nice two-tone/texture look.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:23 am

lol I have to agree with you on this. At least part of me agrees.

All I know is that my friend's headliner is awesome in it, but thats a little different.

I am tempted to just make a blanket out of it haha. I would also love to just do the carpet in it, but I have no idea what goes into doing the carpet...and it would be a bitch to vacuum, etc.

I would do black suede on the parts where I am currently thinking about fuzzyness, but thats $22 a yard... :frustrated:

I may just have enough to do everything in the gray. That might well be the path I take.

I dunno. I am clearly interiorally confused. :wtf:

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:53 am

I just looked and I have 9'x5' worth of the gray suede left...I think that should cover the rest of the interior (the reason I was going to do two tone in the first place was because I didn't think I'd have enough to do it. The only problem I run into with this is that I still have no idea how to get a seamless suede door panel without completely wasting a bunch of it for cutting out the middle. So far I have been able to waste very little. I just wish there was a good separation point.

auditude · Post by **auditude** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:32 pm

Your headliner and rear deck look awesome. I do believe that since "real suede" is the skin of an animal, which doesn't come in rolls by the yard unless there a bunch of seams between pelts, that what you have it man-made suede, such as "ultra suede" or alcantara.

Just a comment. It doesn't make it any less good and in fact alcantara is supposed to be better than "real suede" because it's washable and more wear resistant. I think alcantara, when you can find it, is even more expensive than real suede. Ultra suede is easier to find.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcantara_(material)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrasuede
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suede

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:10 pm

yeah, thats kinda what I thought.

There is REALLY fake suede tho. I think thats what people were referring to. It feels nothing like the ultrasuede.

Anyway, I got the dash all covered, and it somehow came out beautifully.

I'll take pics later on.

auditude · Post by **auditude** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:18 pm

What kind of adhesive did you use on the headliner? Sorry if I missed it in the thread.

derracuda · Post by **derracuda** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:24 pm

i would say nay to the fuzzy stuff... fuzzy is bad, specially after it wears and ages a bit.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:24 pm

I have tried a few kinds now. I am interested in seeing how the hold up in the summer mainly.

I have a general cheap spray adhesive in an orange can bought from autozone...then 3M general trim adhesive, and finally, the 3M super trim adhesive. The super trim adhesive is noticeably stronger.

It says its meant for heavy headliners, vinyl tops, and engine sound barriers, so it should hold up to heat very well.

Feel free to ask any questions you have about the process. I would be more than happy to answer them.

auditude · Post by **auditude** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:34 pm

Actually I do have a question. I have a parts 200q20v almost completely stripped down and ready for scrapping the carcass. I want to pull out the headliner and sunroof parts, but I don't want to break it. Can you explain a little about how the headliner comes out?

I also want to cut out the front windshield and rear window, and after that it's outta here! It's picked clean. I was gonna put the 90Q parts car on the car carrier trailer next to do the same, but just recently I was thinking maybe I ought to keep it around for some sort of a side project (like I need it, but still).

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:46 am

OK, let me see if I can remember exactly how it comes out.

First I took all of the grab handles out. That is fairly self-explanatory. There are two exposed screws and one under a little plastic cover in each one. Then I proceeded to take out the visors and dome light cover. The visors are a little tricky. You have to pry the little plastic covers where the arm of the visor and the place where it seats on the other side (towards the middle of the car) where they meet with the headliner. You have to pry right on the edges or else the whole thing will want to come out, not just the covers. From there, those are easy.

The dome light is next. I just pulled on the rear part of it and that popped down. The correct way to access it is by playing with the electrical switch (push it up and to the side I believe) and it should pop up and out of the way. Through the hole where the electrical stuff is (sunroof switch, etc.), you can access the one screw that holds it in.

The a-pillars just pull out like usual. There isn't really a good way to do the pillars, you just have to be gentile as possible. The entire front of the headliner should be ready to come down now save for the rubber stripping up by the windshield. That just pulls out.

The next thing to do is pull the back seat rest out so you can get access to the rear deck lid (where speakers are). If you dont want the rear deck, then you may be able to skip this step.

The seats are really a two-man job to get out. The headrests are the first thing to tackle as that is the hard part. There are little metal clips in the top of them that allow the metal parts to be pulled out. Once those are out you may be able to pull the plastic part out from inside the seat. If not, you will need to get someone in the trunk to push on the back side of the black plastic part from inside. If you are still confused about this, just PM me. It really is a biotch.

There are two metal tabs underneath the bottom cushion that you will also need to unscrew in order to get the seat back out.

From there, you should be able to access the seatbelt guides on top of the rear deck. Once the B and C pillars are out, the rear deck should be able to come out, and the headliner should be almost coming down in the back except for the rubber strip against the window again.

The last things holding the headliner up now should be from the sunroof and some glue behind the sunroof.

To get to the headliner tabs that hold it up by the sunroof, you will have to lift the sunroof track up. If you want to know how to do that, just let me know, and I'll post it here.

Once its up, you will be able to access all the little tabs that hold it in. Just bend them so they will fit through their holes, and then that part is out of the way.

Finally comes the glue in the back. This part sucks. You will have to wedge your hand between the top of the headliner and the metal of the roof. You will see a bunch of very, very tough glue. I just took anything sharp and went at it very slowly but surely. If you cut it away, it will eventually all fall down. Just be patient with this part and don't get mad at it :-D

That should be it. In order to get it out, I just layed the front passenger seat down and kinda folded it a little and took it right out of the door kinda diagonally.

Once again, feel free to PM or ask here if you have more questions. Sometimes my explaining leaves a little to be desired. :woowoo:

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:20 am

Would anyone care to lay out what I need to do to get a nice set of brakes under this sucker?

Wheel size doesn't matter, as that will come down the line. I am so confused on exactly what is needed to get rid of the UFO's though. I know you can use A8 rotors and boxster calipers or 996 calipers and that there is a bracket you can get from BIRA...but I can't join, otherwise I would.

Also, I am confused about the strut housings...didn't they make it so you could use the stock housings with the special bracket? I need a list of exactly what I need. Brakes just aren't my specialty. Hopefully after I get this taken care of, I'll know a hell of a lot more.

I just cant stand how my car tracks like a mofo to one side or the other while I'm hard on the brakes. I am all for safety...and these aren't safe. Help!!! Thanks

oh, and a quick update, Kevin has pulled through and the ignition harness is now done. ECU has been powered up, and he's now in the process of making the calibration file. I'm sooooooo excited to get this in the damn car this month! I will have plenty of free time to mess with it, and a great tuner who is going to teach me (i hope). He has tuned all sorts of 1000+whp cars from hondas to turbo dart motors, etc.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:10 pm

You have CAD access right? Design your own brackets/carriers. I'm assuming you guys have a student ME machine shop...Where do you think I got my B3-CQ carriers and hats for Wilwood rotors?

For the money, you can get a decent set of Wilwood Dynalite II Forged calipers. 120-6810 or 120-6811 I believe are what I figured out would be similar to the G60 piston area (read, you wouldn't notice a huge change in pedal travel). About $140 each for new ones, rebuild parts and brake pads should be plentiful and pretty inexpensive. The 6810 uses a 1" rotor, the 6811 uses a .810 rotor. Audi has rotors of those thicknesses already, so you may be able to use a factory 280x22 or 276x25 rotor (or something else that I don't know about). Wilwood's website gives every dimension you need from their calipers to design a carrier, you just need dimensions from the car. NERace has great prices on rotor rings if you can make your own hats.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 12:54 pm

Yes, I could and would love to design and make my own brackets, etc.

I just have no idea what they need to look like. I guess I should do some reading up on how exactly brakes are set up, and then I can go from there. Unless someone has brakets that they would like to give me dimensions for :wink:

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:26 pm

Steel, fairly heavy construction for the carriers. I have a corrosion resistant steel, can't even remember what alloy it is. Not 4130, but they've been bolted up to the car in a fairly moist building for a few years, unpainted, and have not rusted except some flash/surface stuff. I'd give you the 2D stuff meant for CNC, but they are for 993C2 calipers and B3-CQ struts, so no workie with the UFO struts and Wilwoods. Ditto for hats (aluminum)...

Pick your alloy and keep in mind that unless you want to buy your own milling tools, it can't be super hard stuff. You'll just have to talk with your machine shop supervisor person as far as what tools you have access to.

dspl1236 · Post by **dspl1236** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 8:33 am

why doesnt anyone make brake brackets for the ufo's? i just dont understand...i have run them...just dont understand why no one supports the aftermarket brake conversion for ufo cars? :bashtard:

to swap out struts to the g60 version - chime in if i am missing something
-g60 strut form urs4/200/v8
-brake lines
-rotors
-calipers

feel like thats it