The Project Pad

Looking good! keep chuging away at it

Started a little on the coilovers. Probably will do the G60 brakes at the same time since I have them, not what I want my final set-up to be but it just makes sense at this time since I don't have to invest anything to get them.

Watch out! Harbor freight spring compressor. Use safety glasses and a face shield with these. And a cup.


It would have been a REALLY good idea to loosen the axle nut but I hadn't planned on getting this deep in the car yet.


Hey! the struts that were in there were already Koni. I think I may be able to get these rebuilt?

I tried the harbor freight spring compressor once... they failed and I was really lucky not to get hurt or damage anything when it happend. It's worth spending the $65 on an actual nice set.

It's pretty much the same price to get Koni's rebuilt as they are to buy new. Basically it's only worth it for a rebuild if you've had special valving done already.

the german wrote:I tried the harbor freight spring compressor once... they failed and I was really lucky not to get hurt or damage anything when it happend. It's worth spending the $65 on an actual nice set.

Yeah I guess I should have realized that from the start. Thought it would do better than it did.

alxdgr8 wrote:It's pretty much the same price to get Koni's rebuilt as they are to buy new. Basically it's only worth it for a rebuild if you've had special valving done already.

OK good to know. I already have the new Koni's on the shelf I just thought they might be worth saving for someone.

the german wrote:I tried the harbor freight spring compressor once... they failed and I was really lucky not to get hurt or damage anything when it happend. It's worth spending the $65 on an actual nice set.

Yeah I guess I should have realized that from the start. Thought it would do better than it did.

alxdgr8 wrote:It's pretty much the same price to get Koni's rebuilt as they are to buy new. Basically it's only worth it for a rebuild if you've had special valving done already.

OK good to know. I already have the new Koni's on the shelf I just thought they might be worth saving for someone.

Are they bad? Probably worth something to somebody if they still have life in them.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Save the konis for when you want them re-valved. Like when you decide to run more than 400# springs

audifreakjim wrote:Save the konis for when you want them re-valved. Like when you decide to run more than 400# springs

#protip

For the rears. On the ground control
Setup, does anyone know a good height for the new weld on perches?

Generally has to do with what you are running for springs.. i always got I think 8" springs with helper springs, and put my perches on accordingly.. but ive also just put the perch as far down as it can go, and got springs to fit.

Continued on the suspension a bit. Real pain to get the ball joints and tie rod ends loose but got the rears out now.


Old struts:


Cleaned off the trans a bit lost some fluid but I am going to dump and refill anyways.

Very little progress but got the strut tubes prepped for the rear, sandblasted the upper portion and new perch rings tacked in place.


7-31-16
Got the rings welded on, strut housings are sandblasted. Everything wiped down and a coat of paint .




Also had to do the dush shield and caliper carriers spent 3 hrs so far today sandblasting its a mind numbing task and a slippery slope.

A note on the engine going on what have you guys fund is the easiest way,
1) I can attach the engine to subframe and lower the car onto it with the trans already mated to the engine.
2) Install subframe and suspension drop engine in from above, then mate trans up in car.

What have you guys found to be the best/easiest route?

Well got alot done today but have a couple issues to work through I think.

The suspension I ordered for my URQ- Koni struts from 2Bennett and Ground Control springs with the "weld on perch" coilover kit. I have done this before but it's been years.

The Hats from the GC kit do not fit properly on the Koni Struts (inside diameter is too large), my question is, shouldnt this be a tight fit? (see pics below)

The struts I was given are four x Part number 8610-1262. I thought the rear and front Koni struts should be different part number and slightly different Dia- but it looks like the ones i pulled out are the same dia. front/rear but different part number. So maybe i am off with the diameter.

Some pictures of the progress:
Subframe after sandblasting and prime/paint


Ready for struts, springs.


Top hats (incorrect inside dia I think?)

Hey Pat- that paint looks great.

I have found engine & trans together, from the bottom to be the easiest. I don't have a lift so I always lifted the engine/trans with a hoist into place install motor mounts, then install subframe and trans mounts.

Rick

Rick thanks, that looks like the way to go.

So a little more progress this week but had some small issues. On the comp brake spherical upper mounts one bushing was too small to fit over the shock so I had to fix those, and find the right top hats. now everything is good there.




On the engine I don't have the AAN Cam sprocket bolt and It's not the same as the 20vt WX bolt so I'm going to have to track one down.



Away we go:

Rick thanks, that looks like the way to go.

So a little more progress this week but had some small issues. On the comp brake spherical upper mounts one bushing was too small to fit over the shock so I had to fix those, and find the right top hats. now everything is good there.




On the engine I don't have the AAN Cam sprocket bolt and It's not the same as the 20vt WX bolt so I'm going to have to track one down.



Away we go:

2B top hats that didn't fit , gold ones below from A-1 racing

Put this project back on the lift for a bit. All of the stuff I am currently doing on the 4000 matches what needs to be done for this car. Suspension work (new tie rods & ball joints) , PCV system, Exhaust, fuel lines, oil an coolant lines , etc.



Getting ready to get the trans and engine mated up. New slave cyl first and got the nice stainless line too .



I still have a couple things yet to figure out . On the rear tie rods I need to make a new piece because the tie rod ends themselves are shorter. ES3045R is the part number, 16x1.5 thread. So the difficult part is I need to increase the length of the steel threaded rod to accept the shorter end. I am not going to cu and weld it because the thought that they are welded will be in my mind any time I drive at speeds.



So my thought is to get a longer steel piece and thread it- I'm new to this and haven't figured out yet how to thread the reverse threads on the inside, unless i can somehow thread it all the way through.

A little more work this AM.

Got the clutch on the Engine. tried to get engine and trans mated up but it was too hard to do by myself. Will come back to that. Then I can get the subframe on and work on downpipe fitment.
Put the turbo on so I can get oil and coolant lines to the turbo.

Working on a design I've had in mind for a forward facing intake manifold. Basically just a alum pipe and then I cut a sphere in half to make the ends. Working on fitment. I am going to "Fillet" the pipe down the middle and expand the dia. just slightly so I can get the fit-up perfect. If it all works out it will end up working like a manifold I have seen that I think was an old Hank design.









Autometer 2265 adapter for oil pressure gauge to the block.

I must have tried about 10x to get the engine and trans mated up on this car. Never had such trouble. Initially I realized that I had used the wrong pilot bearing (was still the one for the 3B/01E in there) so got the correct pilot bearing ordered up and then tried again. This time I could get everything to slide together until the gap was about 1/4" but then it would stop. Tried the clutch alignment tool again multiple times, trans on and off and still hit the same stopping point. Inspected everything closely for burrs on nicks in the splines, etc.
Finally yesterday I removed the clutch again, used the alignment tool the best I could (there is play in it no matter what) and this time was able to slide everything together. Everything went together until this point very well then I had to use some effort to get past here.





Also installed the fuel lines using these Earl's adapters, they are compression fittings.

Got a little time in the shop today. Got the brake booster in, hooked up the lines. New clutch master cylinder in.
Got the engine in so I can start working on things like fitment of manifold, turbo, downpipe, etc. Also need to be able to roll the car so I can get my 4K on the lift.

That is going to be an extremely tight fit on the turbo, if it fits at all..

No , it doesn't yet. I'm not sure what to do there.

The turbo housing is actually fine but the wastegate is causing issues.
So the issue is If I rotate the turbo so that the wastegate has clearance, the exhaust side is too close to the strut tower.
I will have to figure out what options I have. I can't make the manifold any shorter I don't think. could get a new V-band ($$ :( ... ) and tilt the whole set-up a little without too much hassle.

I'll totally help you out, just send that turbo and header over and I'll set you up with my gtx3071 and rs2 ho mani. It will fit no prob!!!

I'm sure you will make it fit, it's just metal