The Project Pad

Giggidy.

DAY EIGHTY

Fit a few more things under the trunk - just finger tight for now as I want to put some new grease in the inner CV joints and haldex fluid in the diff. Would have loved to clean and paint all the rusty bits before they went in but that'll have to be fun for another day...

WOMBAT wrote:Giggidy.

Thanks - gettn' there

DAYS EIGHTY ONE - EIGHTY FOUR

Pulled the back end off today as it was easier to work on this way - the passenger side inner cv joint came apart during the TT disassembly so I got that back together and both sides greased and reattached to the diff. The brakes went on the other day but the inside of the carrier is hitting the disc for some reason so I'll have to look into that...




Drained the diff fluid and will pour in new stuff once I get some. The oil on the top of the drain plug was kind of sludgy so I'm glad I drained it. I don't have a haldex filter wrench yet but was able to get the old filter out and the new one snugged into place. Apparently you're supposed to add the new haldex fluid up the drain plug - you can see it draining in the picture. I just added it through the top plug where the allen key is...

DAY EIGHTY FIVE

Not a productive day... it seems the TT brake callipers and carriers are a touch different than the GLI's. The calliper is sitting a few mm's to close to the rotor and making contact. I don't have part #'s for the carriers but the callipers are GLI: 1J0615423E -vs- TT: 8N0615423C...

I had the TT brakes but I sold them... so if I can't find a replacement set to buy/trade I'll just grind down the carrier a bit so that the rotor is centred where it's supposed to be. I'm planning on shaving the two bolt locations rather than the rotor opening as the latter would reduce the amount of brake pad travel.

Sorry, no pics of the brakes not working

Bummer.

I'd shave the carrier.

Or get it to a machinist to replicate as you intend.

DAY EIGHTY SIX

I had ordered a Haldex insert from Poland last week, and it arrived today, so I installed it while the diff is on the ground. Once the trans/driveshaft are in I'll hook up the Haldex pre-charge pump to turn on with my car and it fully engages the clutch-packs; giving me full time 50/50 power split. Might go HPA or UM down the road but this will do for now...




Thought I'd make my own Haldex filter wrench instead of buying one for $60+ -vs- $13...

PRY4SNO wrote:Bummer.

I'd shave the carrier.

Or get it to a machinist to replicate as you intend.

Check this out...

Ages ago I sold the TT brakes to a local, who bought them for a project car, so I thought see if (for some crazy reason) he would trade for my GLI brakes which are the same spec but are made to fit MK4 Jettas and Golfs. He's finally just gotten around to installing the TT brakes and was just about to source a spacer for them as they're short where mine are long - trading brakes Wednesday

Nice filter wrench and awesome news on the brake swap!
You have appeased the gods, that's for sure

All_Euro wrote:Check this out...

Ages ago I sold the TT brakes to a local, who bought them for a project car, so I thought see if (for some crazy reason) he would trade for my GLI brakes which are the same spec but are made to fit MK4 Jettas and Golfs. He's finally just gotten around to installing the TT brakes and was just about to source a spacer for them as they're short where mine are long - trading brakes Wednesday

Just meant to be.

Greg W.

Sweet deal, nice to see something local and handy work out for both parties!

Thanks guys - that wrench handle was from a cheap timing belt tensioner that couldn't hold it's two pins in place. Glad it finally came in handy!

I'm supposed to get the brakes tomorrow - stay tuned...

DAYS EIGHTY SEVEN - EIGHTY NINE

While I was sorting out the brakes, and the weather was warm, I sealed most of the seams inside the trunk area. It's not pretty but should keep the panels is good condition - this will be cleaned up and painted down the road too...




I was able to trade my GLI brakes for my old TT brakes so I installed the rears - fit like a glove. I had been looking online to see how much fluid the rear diff takes and 1.0-1.5 L was coming up in threads while ECS sells 2 quarts with their kit. Since the diff was on the ground I jacked it up and levelled it, made sure it was fully drained and then filled it back up - 1.0 L exactly.


Rear end is back in place and awaiting brake pads, brake lines and suspension...

Awesome progress man! Just get it done before the snow melts so you can go be Ken Block in your local Home Depot parking lot!

I bet it will take more fluid once it is powered up....

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DAY NINETY

Thankfully I had a good amount of brake lines/fittings from the TT left over - used them to make lines from the calliper forward to the flexible connection in front of the wheels...






Tomorrow I plan to install the TT callipers up front and then try and find some e-brake brackets so I can hook the cables up to the callipers... not sure where I put mine.

Also need to solder the wires by the back seat that I ran the wire wheel through, fab up a temp exhaust, bleed the brakes, torque everything up, maybe throw the front seats back in...

lorge1989 wrote:Awesome progress man! Just get it done before the snow melts so you can go be Ken Block in your local Home Depot parking lot!

Thanks - finally down to the last bits of the pan swap. I've got some monster parking lots by my house that I can terrorize too - soon I hope!

scubagli wrote:I bet it will take more fluid once it is powered up....

Ya, it's possible... I'll have to keep an eye on it until I know for sure.

DAY NINETY ONE

Nice little reminder this morning that it is still winter...




After the front brakes and wheels were sorted I put the crash-bar on and noticed the drivers side wasn't perfectly flat but a washer under the top bolt fixed that...




Finally got to instal my Bilstein's out back, installed the sway bar, ran the e-brake cables into the cab, installed a missing piece of heat-sheild in front of the gas tank, added some fuel to the tank, charged the battery put the Nokians on and some other odds n ends...




Still need to bleed the brakes, fix some wiring and decide what to do with the exhaust... maybe just run the resonator from my place to a muffler shop... not sure how loud that would be.

Awesome progress!!!

I vote for open exhaust... this is Alberta after all. If you're under 95dB, let 'er rip!

Something tells me with the power going to the rear you're going to want a bit beefier sway bar at some point.

DAY NINETY TWO

Was able to work on the car for a bit today and took care of some more odds n ends - used the rental to boost my wilted battery. And, I now have a seat in the car...

Decided just to run the resonator, until I sort something else out, so she sounds like a tractor at idle - glorious nonetheless. Put weight on the back end so I could tighten up the sway bar and went for a burn around my neighbourhood - carefully though as I have no real brakes yet.

Felt great but this car is viciously LOUD atm... pops n snarlz n the whole bit. Check the "muffler", it's pointing down and to the drivers side...




So that was Nov. 1st to Feb. 1st... loosing about a month mostly due to weather. So that's about two months of work time - a couple hours a night during the week and then 4-5 during the weekend days. Working outside meant setting up and cleaning up every day so that took a chunk of time too - so not too bad all things considered. Still need to get an alignment, install an exhaust, etc but I'll just do that along the way and plot the Haldex end of things.

PRY4SNO wrote:Awesome progress!!!

I vote for open exhaust... this is Alberta after all. If you're under 95dB, let 'er rip!

Something tells me with the power going to the rear you're going to want a bit beefier sway bar at some point.

Well, as the only voter you won by a landslide. It's pretty much open with just he resonator hooked up - I'd say the decibels are at 95 or beyond but I'll keep the rental until I sort the exhaust.

It's possible, about the rear bar, but I'll focus on getting the spring rates right first and then as more of a final touch I might increase the rear sway bar rate too. Even with the same bar, I'll just drill a second set of adjustment holes in the flat portion near the end links - this will stiffen it up a little. Just want to avoid the example of too much bar that's seen in pictures of track cars tripodding around tight corners...

The TT and GLI have different ABS sensor connections by the back wheels so I spliced the TT end into my existing wire today - nice to be rid of that ominous warning light finally.

TT up top - GLI on bottom. You can see they're both female and shaped differently...

How'd you do the splice?

Staggered butt end connectors or straight soldering?

Soldered them up but I didn't have shrink tubing big enough so I just used heat and electrical tape to seal the wires up.

Another person pointed out the option of de-pinning the connectors which is smart. I'm not sure the driver's side is long enough to avoid splicing but that will be a good option to explore next time.

I've been really busy with work so I haven't been doing much with the car except driving around... nothing's exploded yet though so that's pretty sweet. I did fab up a temporary exhaust a while back - it's pretty loud but still better than before...






Did something glorious today . Hooked up my e.brake - haven't had on in about a year...