Page 7 of 11

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 12:28 pm
by JShadzi
We've done it a lot, assuming the welding is good she'll hold just fine.

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 12:42 pm
by Toxcheap
i guess it can go either way, I've welded up some 20vt EM's, some cracked again some didn't. My first thought was, it would likely be a place to crack because of the two different metal properties. Glad to hear it'll work!

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 1:24 pm
by Marc
On the v-band, I was concerned about it enough to take it to a pro. Old skool guy that does the welding for the FSAE teams at UNH and teaches a tig class (which I'm now signed up for ;) )

His plan of attack is to heat the part to 250F and use a high nickel content rod. he claims it will never fail and I'm inclined to believe it judging by the stuff in his shop.....

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 1:29 pm
by 3bAudios
its that the guy at unh that has the rotary motorcycle in the little area above the shop? If so thats the same guy that taught me to weld while i was there....super nice guy

Attention!

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 1:52 pm
by aerohr
Marc,

I want to bring this important thing to your attention before you potentially make the same blunder that I did.

I don't know where you are bringing your head, and I know it likely isn't to where I brought mine when I lived in Dover... but if you went to Robbins - go get your head immediately... do NOT let them touch it.

They butchered mine - dug the seats so deep... 9 / 20 valves did not seal.

My mechanic said that it was the worst head job he has ever seen.

Just a friendly FYI from a former Dover-ite.

Re: Attention!

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 1:56 pm
by Marc
aerohr wrote:Marc,

I want to bring this important thing to your attention before you potentially make the same blunder that I did.

I don't know where you are bringing your head, and I know it likely isn't to where I brought mine when I lived in Dover... but if you went to Robbins - go get your head immediately... do NOT let them touch it.

They butchered mine - dug the seats so deep... 9 / 20 valves did not seal.

My mechanic said that it was the worst head job he has ever seen.

Just a friendly FYI from a former Dover-ite.


Nah, wouldn't touch Robbins with a 10ft pole unless its an iron head off an american v8.

Machine work is being done by R&L Engines, also in Dover.

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 2:02 pm
by Ronald G Wainwright+
Toxcheap wrote:You better be ready for monday mofo!


You better be prepaired for Monday..mofo :D

& can't wait too see that log mani on the car Marc..I was able to peep one in Keiths shop in Ohio..but want too see what it looks like on a car.

& what kinda HP you think that will hold?..the mani that.

Re: Attention!

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 2:37 pm
by Toxcheap
a4kquattro wrote:
aerohr wrote:Marc,

I want to bring this important thing to your attention before you potentially make the same blunder that I did.

I don't know where you are bringing your head, and I know it likely isn't to where I brought mine when I lived in Dover... but if you went to Robbins - go get your head immediately... do NOT let them touch it.

They butchered mine - dug the seats so deep... 9 / 20 valves did not seal.

My mechanic said that it was the worst head job he has ever seen.

Just a friendly FYI from a former Dover-ite.


Nah, wouldn't touch Robbins with a 10ft pole unless its an iron head off an american v8.

Machine work is being done by R&L Engines, also in Dover.


:stupid:
Robbins machine manchester fubar'd one of den's 20 valve heads!!

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 2:38 pm
by Toxcheap
Ronald G Wainwright+ wrote:[/quote]
Toxcheap wrote:You better be ready for monday mofo!

You better be prepaired for Monday..mofo :D
[/quote]

ME?
Why me I'm not dynoing?

Marc good call on the V-band!!

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 2:48 pm
by Ronald G Wainwright+
Toxcheap wrote:
Ronald G Wainwright+ wrote:
Toxcheap wrote:You better be ready for monday mofo!

You better be prepaired for Monday..mofo :D
[/quote]

ME?
Why me I'm not dynoing?[/quote]

Just cause I'll be there :D

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 5:08 pm
by Wizard-of-OD
a4kquattro wrote:His plan of attack is to heat the part to 250F and use a high nickel content rod. he claims it will never fail and I'm inclined to believe it judging by the stuff in his shop.....

It may not fail but the V-band may warp.Good luck though

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 8:15 pm
by birdmanmt
Using an EGT?

Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:26 am
by pkw
i am kinda curious as to what your in-runner egt would be under max load. any ideas?

Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:56 am
by JShadzi
It should be around 1500F...

Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:18 pm
by Marc
Update, got the head back from the machine shop and took the day off from work today to put the valvetrain back together and prepare a few other things.

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some shots of the seat work:

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I was going to do all the re-assembly at Haydn's shop on Thursday, until I realized that I forgot the valve stem oil seals at my house :bashtard:

So instead, I powdercoated my valve cover :-D

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Haydn was busy playing with my new boroscope (I had 'tool envy' after borrowing Javad's, so I had to have one :) )

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I borrowed his valve spring compressor (:thanks:) to finish the job at home, it works really well, even better than the official audi tool that bolts to the cam cap studs, IMO.

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I even put my father to work doing some port work on the hot side housing

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fixing up an 'oh fvck!' moment a few years ago when I had to helicoil a broken stud while installing the RS2 EM and ended up drilling into the water jacket (dont ask). I was able to seal it up at the time by packing the tip of a cut EM stud packed with JB at the end of the stud hole but after pulling the stud and pressure testing it was leaking into the cooling jacket. JB weld to the rescue from the back side now that I have access ;)

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And I'm volunteering for the Winter Driving School tomorrow (err.. today).. waking up at 5am so I suppose I should call it a night :-P

That leaves Sunday for the head install, plenty of time ;)

Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:02 pm
by Marc
Alright, more progress from Sunday and today. I got the head back on the car and then had a fight with my Stromung downpipe. It lost :-D

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The Stromung has a transition from 2.5->3" after the wastegate pipe junction and I really needed it to start at 3". I ended up keeping the bottom portion of the downpipe and re-using parts of the wastegate tube but the rest of it was all re-done. I'm really happy with how it came out since now there is MUCH more clearance against the tie rods all the way around. Spent all day routing it the way I wanted but it came out pretty good.

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Decided to go with a phenolic spacer from Vast Performance while I was in there:

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Looking forward to driving my car again some time soon...

Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:08 pm
by Toxcheap
cool looks good

Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:28 pm
by HT Motorsport
:woowoo: hell yeah :)

Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:08 pm
by Audilard
Nice work Marc.

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 12:32 pm
by Marc
downpipe has been finish welded, added a bung at the top for an EGT probe (o2 port is at the bottom to help keep the sensor cool).

Turbo is in, lines attached. Not much more...

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Looks like my coolant hose under the turbo got a little cooked, probably from when the stud backed out and the gasket blew a hole in the bottom... Hose is very brittle in the middle and looks a bit like a hotdog left on the grille for too long. I had enough parts to make a new hose tho. Fire sleeve is going on this time ;)

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Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:31 pm
by GTIVR62801
Mmm...hotdogs. :D

Glad to see its going back together better than ever, but I never had any doubts.

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:49 pm
by WAUG0806
I'm gonna have to lighten the 4000 before we drag race! :o

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 6:47 pm
by Toxcheap
Is it done yet?

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 10:36 pm
by Twisted5000
Looks great Marc. Cant wait to hear the dyno numbers.

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 10:38 pm
by JShadzi
Marc, this is really coming together, your penis will be SOOO smokey :thumbsup: