The Project Pad

audifreakjim wrote:I need to figure out where I'm headed with boost control first.

i thought you were serious about this? you shouldn't even bother putting a wastegate in.....

audifreakjim wrote:Electric PS pump. :woowoo:

Hi, can you give me some more information about this pump? I`d like to install the same. How much is it? From which car? What needs to be modified?

Best Regards from Germany!

It's from a Toyota MR2, Mk1 although the pump from the Mk2 is almost the same. It has a code SW20, which I think is the critical bit.
I am going through the same conversion on a couple of ur quattro's. What car are you fitting it on? If it has the hydraulic servo assit then you will need to convert to a vaccuum brake servo also as this pump won't beable to supply both steering and brakes.
Price is dependant on your local salvage yard

I have a Audi 90 Typ85, called 4000 in the states i think. I have mounted the stock 20v powersteering-pump with a modified holder, but the space for the Intake-Manifold is less with it. My car has a pneumatical Brake-Assistant (dont know how its called in english?).

Here you can see some pics (will be updated): http://mxbikes.de/querlenker/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22

Sweet Jim, go, go! :bump:

A little update, the car runs, but I had a small issue with the check valve that feeds the head oil so it only ran for 15 seconds or so. So while I'm waiting for the new one which should be here Wed, here's some pretty unexciting pics

Breather. If you want to know what the oil sep. is, look through my website under 20v conversion.




Freeze plug mod, 12mm compression to pipe to AN. :woowoo:



Front cross member.

Very cool. You are making some really good progress on it

So what is this deal with the checkvalves? Javad and now you? Is it a must replace when rebuilding?

Regards,
Justin

olsonjus wrote:Very cool. You are making some really good progress on it

So what is this deal with the checkvalves? Javad and now you? Is it a must replace when rebuilding?

Regards,
Justin

We're finding its an issue with the main studs, you have to be careful installing the one above the check valve, we're going to have to spec a shorter stud for this, looks like to be safe pull the check valve, install and TQ the main studs, then reinstall the check valve.

Not usually, but in perfecting the main stud install we realized that the hole for the mains is threaded into this oil galley. If you install the stud too deep it will crush the check valve. It's all in the name of progress, now we know what needs to be done in the future.

audifreakjim wrote:Not usually, but in perfecting the main stud install we realized that the hole for the mains is threaded into this oil galley. If you install the stud too deep it will crush the check valve. It's all in the name of progress, now we know what needs to be done in the future.

Now that is the fiddlesticking spirit 8)

Good to know. Atleast there's a solution to it all. I can't wait to get my motor to the machine shop and my extra 7A head down to javad for work. The west coast is going to have some very cool audis. Never Mind it all ready does

olsonjus wrote:Good to know. Atleast there's a solution to it all. I can't wait to get my motor to the machine shop and my extra 7A head down to javad for work. The west coast is going to have some very cool audis. Never Mind it all ready does

schweet 8) Yea, can't wait to see your beast on the road Justin, you're giving me 42R envy, soon enough...

Carnage! Picture the beads of sweat rolling down my head as I pulled this bitch out. It seems to be made of really soft aluminum so the 12 pt's inside quickly disapeared since the threads were crushed. Thank you EZ-Out!

Attachment ( 3117 ) : P1010119.JPG

What would a motor install be without at LEAST one bolt requiring no less than an hour to R&R?

:woowoo:

Wow that's the first time I've ever seen an EZ-Out actually work! :-D

billzcat1 wrote:Wow that's the first time I've ever seen an EZ-Out actually work! :-D

Me too! Usually the snap off inside the hole you drilled in the soft severed fastener, leaving you with a hunk of hardened steel in the hole to deal with :frustrated:

JShadzi wrote:We're finding its an issue with the main studs, you have to be careful installing the one above the check valve, we're going to have to spec a shorter stud for this, looks like to be safe pull the check valve, install and TQ the main studs, then reinstall the check valve.

this isnt an issue with the 4 cyl blocks is it?

I just realized how ignorant I am about oiling systems... is there a schematic out there in cyber-old-audi-space that shows the oiling system for a 5cyl 20VT or similarly oiled motor?

Nice work Jim... 8)

Sure, here's the bottom end of the later cars. I don't think Pre '89 cars had the check valve. I know my MC block doesn't. The block I'm using is an MC2. The check valve is #25.

Attachment ( 3121 ) : block.JPG

TNX - the more I learn the less I know!

Well I glad everything is all set, and it's nice to have it documented. All keep wondering if it had happen to me would I have caught on that the head wasn't getting oil man I hope so.! LOL

Yea, lucky for us the check valve is before the oil pressure senders so it's easy to tell. I knew the bottom end had oil since it instantly started cranking faster as soon as the oil hit the bearings.

It runs! And damn well I might add.
http://mswanson.com/~jgreen/videos/20vtstart.3gp

Man this thing is smooth, no vibration, sounds just sick, and revs ohh soo easy!

Here's some pics of it pretty much ready to go. I'll be taking it out for a spin tomorrow!

eff yea

:-D Awesome work Jim! Sounds good!