The Project Pad

E85 I guess

I don't think so.

Will have to figure this out eventually.
BOOM! Out, all by myself in fact. All my help kept falling through.


So I'm stumped about what happened to the wrist pins from the spare motor. So weird but I let them soak over night in a box lined with a huge black garbage bag with a high mix of pinesol and water. It appears that the dye from the garbage bag transferred to the wrist pins where the we're laying on it or something. When I run my nail of the stains they seem to have more drag on my nail than the polished areas. Wtf am I supposed to do with these to salvage them? TIA

Above is after sitting in paint thinner all day

I test fit the pin into a rod with no problems at all. No resistance. Seems to spin quite well in there
Run em?

I would definitely not run them unless you don't mind the possibility of having the engine out again.

They looked perfect before I put them in the pinesol except for the oil lines left. I will try to clean the crap off before I go looking for new pistons. I don't think those pins are sold separately

I recovered my blown motor's nice wrist pins. Thank god they survived unscathed! Once I got that motor torn down I found ALL 5 cylinders had broken oil control rings. They were broken in a very uniform fashion that had the bottom portion fully intact but the top of the ring was broken in an eerie manner that looks like equal lengths intact and equal lengths broken away, one after the other. Very weird to see while tearing away at things lol.
These will go in soon but first getting re-ringed at the shop and tolerances checked.

Is it advisable to perform the 500 mile breakin of the motor with the crankcase under vacuum from the turbo inlet? Currently I don't have it setup like that. After the first 15 minutes of running I have 20w-50 R1 oil. Hopefully that's not too thick for the 500 miles.

Did you add the break in oil additive?

Dave the motor is still at the machine shop so they're almost done with it I guess. I did get my direct Port meth injection system finished and the Machinist called me today to tell me that they need to do a line hone for me to use my arp main stud set

From what I've read, the best way is to break it in basically as you intend to drive it. I've noticed a lot of guys use spring pressure at first then after they switch to synthetic they bump up the boost.

Hank recommended AMSOIL Break In oil for the first couple of changes. 50 miles, then 250 miles, to let the rings seat properly. He cautioned against starting the engine without actually driving. Said to just let it idle for a few minutes (enough to get the fluids circulating), and then take it out on a deserted road to do the break in work. Lots of accelerating up the rev range, followed by pedal-off deceleration.

If you haven't seen this theory before, it's a good read:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Thanks alot man I'll give that a read!

So I just left the machine shop and he tells me that both the side of the block or in great shape and then even the valve guides were still good. He recut the valve seats and I gave him stem seals today. Probably done Tuesday or something

I've got this aan windage tray ready for action. My biggest question is if the stock 3b rear plastic windage thing can be retained while using this?

Also, I take it the thickness of an extra sump gasket and the thin tray aren't sufficient to offset the lower bellhousing bolts? God I hop not lol. Yes I opted for the use of a second sump gasket. They're not costly afterall, but I definitely didn't consider the thickness being a problem

Thickness "shouldn't" be a problem. And the plastic tray can stay. I'm running a 7a pan with both the AAN windage tray, and the plastic shelf installed.

Excellent thanks dave

Would sure be nice to run this holset to 32 psi

Question... neglecting the 2 inlet bolts on the oil pump feed with the locking plate (new), which bolts would you consider important to use some form of loctite on inside the sump area? I didn't use any on the 4 baffle bolts that are at 7 ft lbs. Nay?

BTW holy shit does this phenolic spacer make problems! Fitment issues arise between the manifold flange and the water manifold as well as not being able to fit the p/s pump without spacers on its bracket. I used old exhaust manifold washers lol

Thanks DE80Q for hitting me up with an answer! I will not be using any loctite unless specified by Mr Bentley.

On an aside, I'll most likely be cutting power somehow to the meth pump while I'm activating launch control. I will be able to "compensate" ( ) for the fueling of w/m obviously by using the fuel enrichment setting in the LC menu. I was reading it may not be wise to activate it during LC?

Also does this look big enough to be a problem?

My pistons seem so proud of the block. Anyone have a dimension for that? The majority is flush and the intake side goes proud but I'm thinking it fits up into the concave area of the head.

In a stroke of nonluck I csnt get more than 2 bellhousing bolts into the oil pan's section. Seems like a bad idea to leave out. Also my trunk won't open even though its unlocked

Help! Just did first start only to be greeted by an oil pressure warning. Car barely idled probably because of fueling but I did find oil at the turbo feed line outlet. I hope its polarity of the gauge sender unit (which had no reading at idle) as I've switched the wires on the terminals. I will test again shortly. Pretty certain I reused all the good sensors from the blown motor

Anyone seen this problem be caused by a grounding issue?

I feel like it could be related to the intake spaxcer and a grounding issue possiblu. I hope

I just got a stabbing pain in my brain lol. That centered connector is disconnected hah

Doh!


Nice when it's an easy fix though.