The Project Pad

quite right. Guess ill figure out the thread tomorrow

Weep, its an m12 x 1.50 thread of which I'm holding the tap for. I'm going in..

Go for it!

I'm not ecstatic about the fact that giant pieces of green looking, cured threadlocker came out on the tap. I went as far as finger tight got me only. No wander they were not magnetic! I can only assume the green is the factory installed OE blue loctite equivalent as I specified blue as a substitute in my instructions I could maybe see the size of the pieces blocking a head galley and leading to my suicide in the future. Considering making them clean out the threads like they probably shouldve done already!

Went to the gas station!! Only problem is the oil pressure sender is making the gauge read way past 5 bar like its pegged but it reads 0 bar with key in run position before starting the engine. As soon as it starts it pegs itself. I tried switching the wires and this way seems more normal than the other way's behavior. The old sender does the same crap lol. I didnt drive it long enough to see the pressure drop to the usual 2 bar.

This looks like the sender I bought: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5980692-FS-FAE-Oil-Pressure-Sending-Unit-5-bar-0-3-bar-switch

5 bar+ on cold oil seems normal to me. Every euro car I've owned that had an oil pressure gauge did that. My tdi would make 90 psi until engine came up to temp, then stay around 20-30 psi depending on rpm.

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Thanks scuba Steve
I drove to my brothers house on the other side of town without issue but the gauge stayed pegged even when warm
I'll order the new one today but it'll be OE this time. I think the FAE might be DOA?

That will also happen when the two wires are reversed on the sensor.

Thanks austin. What's odd is when I switched the wires the warning would sound and the pressure reading would peg above 5 bar like the OE sender when it seems to be functioning. So to sum up, when the wires appear correct on both:
OE- zero with key on, pegged above 5 when running
FAE- slightly above zero with key on, pegged above 5 with autocheck warning

Ah jeez. I have a confusing update.
OE- zero with key on, pegged above 5 when running but now very randomly sounds the oil buzzer.
FAE- now AT zero with key on, stays at zero while running regardless of load or rpm lol

GTJeff wrote:Have you verified that the check valve isn't crushed?f=10&t=40901[/url]

Man why didn't you ask for your cookie?! You earned it and I forgot

How TF do I keep buying new defective items!? The FAE oil pressure sender was also defective. OEM VDO sender worked as soon as I installed it.

I'm blown away by how healthy the motor runs now. I run the holsets to 30 psi with zero oil in the catch can!

Just this week alone:
One defective IACV from eBay
One defective m1-205 oil filter Frome Autozone (had a rattle internally)

I quit buying non oem stuff a while ago for this reason!

so i went out to do donuts with lots of boost and the resulting log was quite rich overall! tune is excellent during other driving scenarios including boost though . only time it gets "weird" is between shifts. heres the log file. i probably had the heat on which ALWAYS makes lambda off during inconsistent throttle intervals. does this seem reasonable?



i disabled all the rich decal settings that were active during the breakdown so break in would be safe

Is this reasonable you guys think? 0.79 lambda at 30 psi seem too rich or good? This is with the new direct port meth injection spraying. Feels very healthy at that afr.

Marc says this all looks good for lambda target. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Yeah doesn't look bad to me. Happy Holidays

Thanks man you too

Real quick I wanna ask everybody running over 25 lbs of boost, are you all running bosch F5DPOR plugs? Did anymore go one step colder? Just curious

If you didn't and you gap your own plugs, what gap please? TIA.

Enjoy time with your families.

This thread is a handy reference:
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33381

Oh ya that's a nice reference for sure! Thanks

droooool