The Project Pad

Just in case anyone is reading along, I made up a semi-stim using a 12v DC charger so I'm pulling power from the center of the tip and have a universal ground soldered to the outside of the tip. I've got a DIY autotune harness so I've just got all the grounds soldered together and I power it up/down by twisting the switched 12v to my positive "stim" lead. Ghetto but it works

Here is what I can pull up on the board:
5v Reg:
14v@pin1 of U5 (5v reg)
4.98v@pin3 of U5
Verified Ground@pin 2 of U5

68HC908 socket (U1 uninstalled)
Verified ground@pins 2, 19, and 32
4.97@pin20, 15, 14, 13, 12
3.06v@pin21, 22
1.77v@pin 23
4.9xv@pin 24, 25
2.66v@pin 27

I don't know what the values are exactly suppossed to be, especially with the processor uninstalled, but my grounds all seem good and it seems to be pulling in voltages in the right spots, but plug in the processor and nothing works. Also the processor is heating up pretty bad when plugged in and powered up... more signs of it going bad?

Okay, so I LOVE how much info is in the megamanual but sometimes it can be a bear processing it all. Anyways, fount the test for the power loop, my super ghetto megastim is working great, I know I should just buy the real thing but I'm finding creative ways to work around and test everything. I found a bad solder joint on pin 31 of the processor which is a Vref. There was solder on the tip of the pin, but it wasn't melted down into the board so the pin was just kinda shaking around in there Not really shaking, but it didn't have continuity between the socket and the first eyelet in the trace.

Anyways, got that fixed, same exact problems. I am going to say it as a fact... bad processor. Ordering a new one tomorrow and reflowing all solder joints tonight so hopefully problem will be fixed when I get the new one.

WINNING!!!

New processor came in today, I went over and checked that everything was as it had been on the processor socket, plugged in my new processor and BAM, priming LED flashed and no heating up! Tried to connect, was an idiot for a little, realized I needed firmware, then realized I didn't have hyperterminal, found a bad copy, took an hour uninstalling shit, found a good trial version, downloaded, booted ECU, downloaded firmware via BOOT port on board, loaded up my tune, checked that it burned, and threw it in the car...

Fired first crank! I am pretty happy about that, and I am pretty sure that the (very) bad joint I had on pin 31 caused irregular/a total loss of voltage and fried the processor. It is listed as a VRef on the schematic, so guessing it may have been a reference for something injector related as the injector pulse LED output is where the processor showed signs of failure

Either way, glad it's fixed, provided some motivation to correctly (mostly... ok, by the end at least I deff was getting the hang of it) confidently diagnose and fix something involved and relatively new to me like this. As always, thank you for reading!

That's pretty awesome Shawn, nice work. It always seems so easy in hindsight bit in the moment sometimes things can take a lot of thinking. Although you seem to have had a handle on it the whole time :-)

Thanks Matt! I understand enough to muddle along at least, it really sucks not having anyone to bounce ideas off though. My boss helped a little but he's not really interested enough to give it an honest effort, but this was still way faster than sending it out to someone and wayyy more satisfying to fix it myself!

YES! Glad you got it figured out!

so its gotta 13.5 in it now right? now that all is well?

WOMBAT wrote:YES! Glad you got it figured out!

Thanks I'm glad too as I'm trying to rack up some serious miles on this thing in September including the trip to NY if it seems reliable enough by then. I need to shake it down around here, hoping to be dailying it to work by the end of next week at the very latest, looking like another coat of paint and lowering may not happen before H20, but that's mostly money dependent.

Thats awesome that you were able to get it fixed. Hoping to be running around at h20 with you!

my2000apb wrote:so its gotta 13.5 in it now right? now that all is well?

I didn't say it but... I think with more boost it just might

DE80q wrote:Thats awesome that you were able to get it fixed. Hoping to be running around at h20 with you!

Thanks Dave! Get the Bandit done!! As we get closer to the date we gotta plan a caravan out there. Also, I guess I need to look into finding a place to stay... My budget for H20 is tight as it includes the cost of a ticket. Gotta be realistic

Yeah thats what I am worried about. Even having the bandit sideways down there 2 years ago, I didnt get a ticket. But Im sure as soon as someone hears a BOV I will have one

vt10vt wrote: My budget for H20 is tight as it includes the cost of a ticket. Gotta be realistic

Reminds me of being in Dana's ghetto 20vt 90 and rippin' up and down the strip. That was so much fun.

Ok, time for a looonnngg post. A lot of this is going to be for me to remember what I actually did and anyone looking for ideas on how to do something similar. I know my methods aren't everyone's cup of tea

So, previously I was using a MS1 v2.2 ECU running fuel only control through a relay board. I wanted to make the jump to full on standalone by adding ignition control. My ECU was a totally base model; no ignition drivers onboard, old code etc. so I ordered up a coil driver kit from DIY autotune, Bosch BIP373 to be exact. THE PINS ON THIS DRIVER DO NOT MATCH THE MEGAMANUAL (http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_article ... squirt.htm) The only other modifications needed are:

1x 1k resistor
2x 1N4001 diodes
1x 2.2k resistor

For starters, I decided I wanted everything engine related to be controlled by MS so I can eliminate the MAC-11 entirely. I also wanted to get away from using the relay board because the connections are shotty and it's really unnecessary, although it does lessen the learning curve considerably. However, I still had the board, so I decided to use it as a power block. First I drilled a hole in the relay board between the fuel pump fuse and the fuel pump relay, cutting ONLY the trace between these two points, and giving me an un powered/grounded/used fuse holder. I then jumped switched 12v directly from the incoming soldered switched pad to one side of the fuse holder and added a lead on the other side to the ECU and put a 2v fuse inline. If need be this can always be reversed via jumper.

I used the 4 injector terminals (switched and relayed constant 12v) and used 3/4 to power my injectors (1&2 share 3&4 share 5 is independent) and the last one to power my hall sensor. I also added an output to switch the coil harness (green wire, relayed 1 wire from jumper post to 2 coil leads, ground to valve cover). I stole this from the spare 5 series wiring harness I have. I have yet to finalize fuel pump wiring; for some reason MS primes the pump as it should and runs for 20-30sec and then cuts the pump off

The Hall sensor is a high-low sensor. The black/red wire is 12v in (>9v is bently spec, thanks Tim and Toph!), the middle is output (5v/0v) and the remaining is the ground. If you are getting ~20v constant output regardless of wheel position your ground is bad/not hooked up, ask me how I know

MSnS needs a trigger for each spark event, so that means 5 window hall window. I got an old vacuum advance one which was a mistake. BUY AN NG ONE OR A 5 WINDOW REBUILD KIT. The wheel on mine was much bigger than the MC shaft, and the MC window is splined onto the shaft, so I cut the 1 window wheel off and cut a piece of the old dist shaft and drilled it out, creating a spacer, and made sure the height was the same, pressed them into place and shot a tack of weld in.




Spacer material:



Drilled out:


Affixed!


Checking runout
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvxYRdDBMGU[/youtube]

Ok, I'll finish my MS write up later, got the most important stuff down, it's a start anyway. So in review, I am using the hall sensor for the timing input (no crank trigger) and a single onboard ignition driver to fire the coil through the dist. Not a sophisticated (at all) setup but I wanted to get my feet wet in ignition tuning and also because VR sensors scare me

Anyways, here's a couple pics and vids for your enjoyment

Me being an excited dork
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88ljXFBqyYw[/youtube]

AND BEHOLD... LAUNCH CONTROL!!!!!!!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-OhoaPctO8[/youtube]
(this one might get taken down, NSFW haha)


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ie51IZf4Bg[/youtube]

What should I be doing for settings? We played a little with timing settings, thinking maybe I need to go ATDC to get it to really blow out the exhaust valves? Anyways I am STOKED. Thanks for reading along!

That is awesome! Now dont go forgetting anything. Once I get my MS im going to really need your help!

DE80q wrote:That is awesome! Now dont go forgetting anything. Once I get my MS im going to really need your help!

it's all locked away up there somewhere! I think...

My buddy Greg called me while I was in the process of building the LC circuit, stopped by and helped diagnose that and my no-start problem (kept forgetting the FP was hardwired and needed a fuse in it...). He's doesn't like forums so I told him about this one because its so far from your typical forum. Greg, get your projects up here!

rallyfreak202 wrote:

vt10vt wrote: My budget for H20 is tight as it includes the cost of a ticket. Gotta be realistic :rofl:

Reminds me of being in Dana's ghetto 20vt 90 and rippin' up and down the strip. That was so much fun.

I still can't believe neither Dana nor that 3076r a4 got tickets. Definitely my best memory from H20.

That was a good time hahaha - I have video somewhere...

Man, this has been a long but good read! Great to see all the good work you've put into the 200, it has really come a long way! I have to say we need to make some better videos of this thing cause it sounds way better in person than what your phone can capture. I cannot wait to ride in it again with the launch control working! Once again, good work Shawn and hopefully I'll find some spare time to post a thread about the mk2 and maybe even the subie when I get to it's turbo MS build. Oh and my name is Greg BTW for all people on here other than Shawn haha.

Man I still can't believe you read, read it all, you should definitely do something for the MK2, this crowd definitely appreciates a good turbo VR. Check out my200abp's VR coupe and Zerb's former 1.8T car, both are awesome.

On a related note, this is too much fun. 10psi and a couple foot ish flames

[youtube]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6vm1fbmOlB0[/youtube]

The avant made its maiden voyage to the shop, no alt ATM so... Thought the batt would make it further. Had to pull the battery outta trusty ol suby that was acting chase/recovery vehicle, drop it in, took Audi to get chase/recovery vehicle #2, drove to the shop, got suby and called it a night. Besides that and needing a tune it ran beautifully

Thanks for reading!

Sounds really good!

What's the LC rev limit set to? sounds high... But also sounds AWESOME.

Ahhhh, love me some good ol fashioned lc!

WOMBAT wrote:That was a good time hahaha - I have video somewhere...

Find it and post it up!! That was so much fun, can't wait for this year!

And thanks guys!!

LC settings are currently engaged @3500, hard limit @4k retarding to 5 degrees. The RPM's are creeping up when it starts building though so I definitely need to play with the settings a bit.

Thanks for reading