The Project Pad

Definitely nice to cross things off the round-to-it list. I've had that same item on mine for about three cars!

PRY4SNO wrote:Definitely nice to cross things off the round-to-it list. I've had that same item on mine for about three cars!

Hmm... sounds like a high-horspower part of the project(s)... take your time / take your time. Some things just can't be rushed

Sooo... I was changing the oil the other day and noticed a little something. Call it a hunch, but I don't think this is supposed to be here...




If you're going to change one thing you might as well change the other right - time to swap transmissions I guess...

Got my GLI transmission out... I picked up a replacement clutch disc but the old one is still pretty good - I'll use the new one anyway and won't bother switching flywheels...




Bentley specs on the GLI (fzq) -vs- TT (dqb) specs that I found online. I'm tempted to pull the 1st & 2nd gears out of the FZQ but whoever buys it probably wouldn't appreciate that...

Haven't been getting a lot done lately but these few things will be getting installed shortly. Really happy with the customer service from all three companies... tiny little orders and they all responded and shipped quickly.

SEM side mount intercooler...




Relentless TT 225 downpipe...




PagParts OEM timing belt kit...

I'd originally planned to do some porting work on the "new" turbo and exhaust mani that are replacing my K03... two studs came out of the manifold fine but the third - no so much. I'm not sure I'll have time to port anything now but I still need to replace the hardware that I had mostly out. I tried welding a cheap wrench to the head of the stud but the wrench metal is junk and just broke away. Looks like I'll have to dremel the head of the stud off and then hopefully I can vice-grip the rest out...




With respect to the driveshaft - I decided to just source one that's the proper length and then, later, if I move the engine closer to the firewall I'll modify the short section of the driveshaft to suit. Sourcing just the rear section of the centre driveshaft from the U.S. turned out to be more expensive than what I paid for the full driveshaft and shipping from the UK... it should be here in two weeks.

Whaaaat?

Look away for a minute to buy a house and miss a TONNE!

-- which replacement clutch did you go for?

-- had really wanted to be there for the trans swap, how did it go? Anything unexpected?

-- regarding the 1/2 gear swap, wouldn't they be incompatible with the final drive ratios being different?

-- that SMIC looks like a high density piece with quality materials/welds... nice pick up. Same for the DP... are they installed yet? If yes, how do they fit?

-- with the seized stud, can you weld another nut on top instead of the wrench? It ought to weld better and bigger surface area would make it easier to torque it off. If nothing else the heat input should help.

-- crazy about the propshaft... but I've found the same myself. Things seem to come faster and similarly priced or cheaper from the UK than the USofA for whatever reason, despite the distance. Go figure!



Keep it up! Love the progress!

Haha - these updates are from the last few weeks... been lazy lately and otherwise out of town with family. Can't wait to invade your garage - congrats

* I got an OEM LUK clutch disc for price reasons - I just need something to handle a K04 and last until the front gets an LSD so that should do it.
* I've only pulled the GLI trans, the TT trans is going in this weekend - so there's still time if you want to make the journey. One came out easy - hopefully the other will go in easy too... but I'll get the K04 and exhaust mani in first.

* The gears swap over no prob - the final drive ratio affects all of the gears in much the same way as changing gears on the front ring of your mountain bike does. So the GLI gears would be a little longer in the TT trans because its final drive is longer than the GLI's... I'll try things out untouched for a while and if I don't like it (and the spare 02M hasn't sold yet) then maybe they come out...

* Super impressed with the intercooler - I wasn't expecting much for $200. Fin density is about 12 per inch so I'm guessing 2-3 psi drop in charged air?
* The downpipe looks great for the price too - nice welds although they could be a little straighter in places. The inside fitment of its sections is WAY nicer than what I had bought previously from 034... we'll see how it fits shortly.

* Good idea about welding another nut to the seized one - it's not like I have a shortage of extras... not sure why I didn't think of that!
* No kidding - it doesn't help when is USD is worth 1.26 CAD's...

So, I tried welding a bolt to the bolt - but it broke away just like the wrench did...



Ended up sectioning the top like a pizza...



Then the bolts I had available didn't fit. The grade, thread and pitch were good but the bolt head was too big and they had way to many threads. It was a little tedious but I decided to just machine to fit...

Driveshaft from Europe came in. Here's the difference between them - about 11 cm...



Added a 12.5 lb spring to the wastegate to increase the cracking pressure a little...



As much as I've been trying to put things back together, I ended up having to pull pretty much every ancillary off the head/block. The coolant lines that attach to the block,turbo, heater core, etc are different. Thankfully I still have what I need from the TT teardown...

Was having some trouble getting a bolt off my Fluidampr and I don't have a crank locking tool - pry bar did the trick though...



This timing belt kit is pretty cool - it's an OEM manual tensioner but instead of using the twist method you just align tension marks and lock it into place. No guess work...



The TT 225 oil drain line doesn't work with the hybrid oil pan that came with my car and the K03 line is too short. I tried bending the TT line to fit but no dice. Ended up having to cut the K03 line and splice in a rubber piece - will add heat shield tomorrow...

You have to check and retention the belt after it runs for a while.

I didn't think you had to with these but that's a good idea regardless. There are two alignment marks that indicate proper tension... I double check them after a few cycles

Finally made time to install the new transmission - I was expecting a struggle but it popped right into place thankfully.

I pulled the transfer case off and balanced the transmission on a jack - the tranny is tilted away from the firewall so it clears the subframe. Raised the jack until the spline notches into the clutch disc and then rolled the trans forward while pushing in...






I had to redo the oil drain from the turbo as it wasn't clearing the axle very well - the K03 line is a bit too short and the K04 line also has a bracket that bolts to the block so it stays out of the way of the axle. K04 top connected to the K03 bottom...

This thing driving yet?

Yeah what's the hold up?

Haha - I can't disagree actually... I made better progress during the winter. Work has been crazy busy lately and my poor car has been on the back burner unfortunately. I'm short a few odds and ends that I need to get back on the road - here's what's on order...

transfer case bolts and washers
coolant ball
trailing arm covers
inner & outer cv boot kit for each front axle
dot 4 brake fluid
Motul 75w90 gear oil
jug of unmixed coolant
Red LIne friction modifier for rear diff

Guess I could go prep the axles for the CV refresh...

Get to work! Sheesh, not much to do, really!

I bet one email to Jordan and a trip to Mopac can get everything on that list.

find one more small peice of pipe and have it welded in there, then no rubber = less leak potential

chaloux wrote:Get to work! Sheesh, not much to do, really!

I know... seems like the weather has to be semi-nasty before I get out there and hustle. It is supposed to rain or snow this weekend so who knows what might happen.

PRY4SNO wrote:I bet one email to Jordan and a trip to Mopac can get everything on that list.

I do have an order in for the parts but I wasn't told until afterwards that things were coming from the next province over... that's what I get for assuming I guess. The most important part of the order is the transfer case bolts/washers so I'll see if I can source something local

my2000apb wrote:find one more small peice of pipe and have it welded in there, then no rubber = less leak potential

True - the rubber bit is temporary but if my parts are delayed then maybe this weekend will be a good time to address that...

Little behind on updates but things have been moving a little. Driveshaft is just a little too long to bolt up in one piece so it had to be installed in two pieces and then attach... kind of messy but not too bad if you're careful - good time to swipe in fresh grease...



With these centre brackets I just bolted them up in the middle of the adjustment range and then you'll want the driveshaft to be in the middle of the trans to diff range of play. I'll get in touch with a driveshaft company to get their thoughts on alignment and take it in if recommended - will let you guys know how I make out with that...



This picture is a little deceiving but the downpipe is only a few mill's away from the driveshaft flange - not sure what stock clearances are but thankfully it's not rubbing...

The TT 225 has it's primary O2 sensor near the turbine housing and since that's the downpipe I bought my current O2 sensor needed some stretching. Turned out pretty nice...

Got a little heavy handed with the mani to turbo bolts while I was sealing up an exhaust leak...



Could not get the inserts off the broken bolts except by heat and relief cutting two of the three...



Getting them back in and flush wasn't smooth sailing of course but a they did finally go - the uncut insert needed a little notching up top though...



Bolts I had didn't work as the heads were too big so converted them to studs...

After daily driving duties for a week or two I did hook up the precharge pump to give it a go... there are only two wires controlling it - a black ground wire and a yellow positive. I tied into a common ground location on the inside of the drivers side rear fender and then went up to the fuse box with the positive. Since I don't have a rear wiper, fuse #27 was available and retained for service.

Unfortunately, the pump was weak right from the start... both wheels were rotating at first, then just the passenger and the next day it was toast - didn't even get to drive it. I haven't pulled it out yet so I don't know if there is fluid on the wrong size of the seals or if it's a brush wear problem but a new pump will be here early next week and I'll have a look after it's replaced.

Squeaky wheel...
http://vid340.photobucket.com/albums/o3 ... 5nwaza.mp4