The Project Pad

So I made sure the coolant cap was tight. I don't seem to be leaking coolant anywhere but about every three weeks or so, if not sooner, I have to add coolant. Like last week the light came on and the level was super low. I didn't think these cars went through that much coolant. Is there a common place these might leak that isn't very easy to see? Water pump was replaced last year, and I didn't have any issues then. I did up my commute from about 15-20 miles a week to about 30-60 a day.

Check your aux coolant pump - mine sprung a leak as the plastic cracked and would slowly leak (Which would also kill my battery from running that little pump non stop).

I think there is an additive you can add too to make it easier.

Might be worthwhile to add some UV dye and find the leak(s) that way. I'd avoid the stop-leak fluids, from what I've seen they leave debris behind in the coolant passages.

Ill probably grab some dye. The thing is I can't see any dried coolant anywhere. Unless its deep somewhere I feel like its not actually leaking and just burning it.

Well I did some digging around and found some dried coolant in certain areas. There was some around the downpipe and also what looks to be below the water manifold.
The last three pictures are kinda hard to see. There is some dried coolant to the left side of the picture where it looks like it was dripping down, and the last picture shows what looks like dried coolant on the passenger side cv boot. (Steering rack is leaking)

Do you have a belly pan? That would help to see if there's any pooling happening.

Have you popped off the timing belt cover? There's a chance coolant could be seeping past the water pump o-ring.

PRY4SNO wrote:Do you have a belly pan? That would help to see if there's any pooling happening.

Have you popped off the timing belt cover? There's a chance coolant could be seeping past the water pump o-ring.

I don't have a belly pan. I will take a look at the timing cover tomorrow!

Most of the coolant is dried up by the time I get a chance to look due to the heat. However I did see small pool, about the size of a 6mm hex bolt head under the thermostat. Maybe its leaking from there and while I am driving the wind is just blowing it all back onto the block and its drying up from there.

From what I understand, you'd be able to use the dye to trace the spray back to the source.

In the third pic from the top behind the dip stick. Do you see that banjo fitting? Could be that? But that looks dirty. I would think the coolant leak would clean the area a lil. Looks like there’s some type of coolant booger behind the dip stick or just a dirt booger??? Isn’t there a plastic coolant fitting on the back of the head?? Thermostat housing cracked?? Do you know anyone that could pressure test the coolant system? That’ll pin point the leak. Good luck with it.

So I put some dye in, let it sit over night and then drove it today. Checked it out. Looks like there is some leaking from the thermostat housing and the lower bolt. I loosened the bolt a bit to make sure there wasn't anything holding it in and then tightened it pretty good, without cracking the housing. I sprayed the area with some water and check to make sure there was no coolant left. Ill check again tomorrow and see if that housing seal is bad. Might be time to upgrade to the metal housing from EFI.

Nice.

Stupid question, I did thermostat during the T Belt. I had other stuff out of the way at that point. Isn't it just the thermostat seal for the housing? I can just replace the seal and should be good to go? With a bit of cleaning of the mating surfaces of course, however is there an "easy" way to get to it, or is it just a tight squeeze in general?

Going to take a guess and say I have more than one leak. The first picture is from this morning have the car sitting for a few days. You can see the frame is covered in dye. The second picture is from a 10min drive, or less. You can see it has pooled up in places. I honestly have no idea where its coming from at this point, but that seems to be the biggest leak.
Almost looks like I am using the wrong coolant, with how bad the leak is.

Leaking heater core or heater valve or something under the rain tray, running to drain under rain tray/heater box, and pooling on your frame rail?

Berserker wrote:Leaking heater core or heater valve or something under the rain tray, running to drain under rain tray/heater box, and pooling on your frame rail?

Yep. Not sure if its the core. I am still getting warm air, and hot air when I need it. I think its the valve. Its leaking, down in the cowl and then out.

When replacing the heat control valve, is it necessary to replace the black heater hose with that little valve on top? Looks like those run $120+.

I doubt it is necessary, but not a bad idea if it's leaking there already.

Side note, I went to replace my voltage regulator. I did some research on QW and found the higher volt one. Went to replace it and they look different. Does the new one fit in there? I couldn't really get it to actually seat and I didn't want to force anything. The brand "button" is on a different side than the one that is currently in there.
I believe I have the 120amp alternator and the regulator I got was for the 110amp.

The old brushes are smaller after having been used for so long. That's why it feels different installing the new regulator.

PRY4SNO wrote:The old brushes are smaller after having been used for so long. That's why it feels different installing the new regulator.

I understand they are smaller, but the regulators look physically different.
On the old one, with the brushes facing up, the brand "button" is at a 90 degree angle and no writing can be seen. On the new one with the brushes facing up you can clearly see the button and the writing.
Example, the second picture and the fifth picture.

I just didn't know if one is an older style and they both work, or if one is for a different part altogether.
It also doesn't seem like the plastic cap would fit back over the back of alternator because the "button" sticks out farther.

I'd think that's all just cosmetic. If the specs on the outside match the innards you should be good to go.

Took the old regulator off. Compared to the new one. Not the right part. They are physically different sizes. Now I need to find the other style. ECS is selling one for $170

S4 and S6 have different alternators, you probably have the wrong one as you have figured out.

The regulator should be here today, but on the topic of electricity related items, I feel like my battery moves around quite a bit under my seat. I'm 90% sure its the correct group size, but no matter how I position the metal brace to hold it down, it is still able to move quite a bit. It would be fine in a roll over, but over certain roads and bumps I can hear it moving around. Any one else experience this?