The Project Pad

jbrentd wrote:Glad to see you're back at it. I'm jealous of that quickjack.

I really like it, Costco $1500 Canadian not including the SUV adapters... money well spent!!

Hey if you get a chance I'm still curious what sway bars your running/what car they came off of. I'm also running verkline/akm subframes and the swaybar that was on my b3 wouldn't work with them.

Catching up on this thread...can you share info on the radiator and fan?

Lucky wrote:Hey if you get a chance I'm still curious what sway bars your running/what car they came off of. I'm also running verkline/akm subframes and the swaybar that was on my b3 wouldn't work with them.

Sorry missed your request. I still haven’t fully installed them. I may have the same issue when the time comes...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Peters wrote:Catching up on this thread...can you share info on the radiator and fan?

It’s a Ron Davis radiator - I had them build the shroud and fan. They are who used to bike the 034 radiators so they have the spec on file if needed (I also have a drawing somewhere).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

PRY4SNO wrote:

jbrentd wrote:Glad to see you're back at it. I'm jealous of that quickjack.

Wiley brought his over to help with a brake job and I'm impressed with the ease and utility of the jack. Great solution for spaces that can't accommodate an overhead lift. Nice that they're so portable too, could be handy for track days.

I’m really liking it - even in middle setting I can cruise around on creeper under the car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So while the car was pushed aside I decided on a few more changes...

Decided to remove the rear seat as it will never be used. This resulted in a few adjustments in the wiring plan - I’ve been playing with that layout over the last week and think that I mostly have it figured out. The main driving reason for the rear seat removal was that I decided to put a bolt in rear roll bar from Wiechers. Should stiffen the chassis. Ordered it in chrome moly so weight feels reasonable.




Little overview of wiring details. Any wire to wire connections will be crimped and then heat shrink put on. I used to solder everything but modern crimping hardware is far better...



Anything inside the car will be sheathed in expandable nylon with adhesive lined heat-shrink over the ends. For quick identification later I use red heat shrink on the ends if positive and black on negative.

Wires outside the car will be inside Raychem DR25 heat-shrink. For the ends of the DR 25 where the wires come out I inject Resintech RT125 to complete the seal. Whenever possible I separate power and ground wires (the Infinity box does have grounds of each power module).

I also have Dymo Rhino label maker that you can print onto heat shrink which is also quite handy. You can get the heat shrink in a variety of colours...

I’m still trying to decide if I am going to do some bulkhead connectors for the firewall ECU transition... I’ll update on this later.

More later!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So while the car was pushed aside I decided on a few more changes...

Decided to remove the rear seat as it will never be used. This resulted in a few adjustments in the wiring plan - I’ve been playing with that layout over the last week and think that I mostly have it figured out. The main driving reason for the rear seat removal was that I decided to put a bolt in rear roll bar from Wiechers. Should stiffen the chassis. Ordered it in chrome moly so weight feels reasonable.




Little overview of wiring details. Any wire to wire connections will be crimped and then heat shrink put on. I used to solder everything but modern crimping hardware is far better...



Anything inside the car will be sheathed in expandable nylon with adhesive lined heat-shrink over the ends. For quick identification later I use red heat shrink on the ends if positive and black on negative.

Wires outside the car will be inside Raychem DR25 heat-shrink. For the ends of the DR 25 where the wires come out I inject Resintech RT125 to complete the seal. Whenever possible I separate power and ground wires (the Infinity box does have grounds of each power module).

I also have Dymo Rhino label maker that you can print onto heat shrink which is also quite handy. You can get the heat shrink in a variety of colours...

I’m still trying to decide if I am going to do some bulkhead connectors for the firewall ECU transition... I’ll update on this later.

More later!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Cage looks like a good fit. You gonna remove the seat backs too?

jbrentd wrote:Cage looks like a good fit. You gonna remove the seat backs too?

Yes, was just eager to check the fit - pulled the seats after I took the pictures.

FFF wrote:

jbrentd wrote:Cage looks like a good fit. You gonna remove the seat backs too?

Yes, was just eager to check the fit - pulled the seats after I took the pictures.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

FFF wrote: The main driving reason for the rear seat removal was that I decided to put a bolt in rear roll bar from Wiechers. Should stiffen the chassis. Ordered it in chrome moly so weight feels reasonable.

Is that cage specially ordered? What is the best source for one?

Yes, I ordered it through the German company Weichers... price was reasonable but the shipping was horrid with all the increases from Covid. They do have a US dealer but they couldn't order spcifically what I wanted... I did find a couple of companies that bend the bars but I didn't want the hardcore full roll cage (FIA standards).

https://www.wiechers-sport.de/en/

That cage looks awesome , and
I guess I need to get a ome of these ratcheting crimp pliers !!

I bought the dyno label maker with the printable/heat shrink tuning too. I just need to actually start using it. Pretty big project with the wiring you have going on but it’s going to be awesome .

Thanks Pat.

I get my stuff from Prowire.com or milspecwiring.com if I can't source locally for a reasonable price
1.0 M81824/1-1 RAYCHEM MINI-SEAL SPLICE -RED
2.0 M81824/1-2 RAYCHEM MINI-SEAL SPLICE -BLUE
3.0 M81824/1-3 RAYCHEM MINI-SEAL SPLICE-YELLOW
4.0 3137CT BUTT SPLICE CRIMP TOOL (RAYCHEM AD 1377)

I had a closer look and figured before I got too far into pulling wire around the car I’d better get the roll bar holes drilled - rough fit all of the interior back in to make sure I don’t have any major trimming.

Also did a template for a lid where the back seat went. Trying to decide if I should put electric components on top or underneath... also what material.



And I think that I’ll remove the rear middle seat bracket...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I just went back through your whole build...amazing work!

Back on page 1, you were looking for a bowden cable clip...did you ever find them? I need one as well. It's one of the many things I need for my swap (damn scope creep).

FFF wrote:Also looking for the clip that holds cable onto box.
Broken one I’m sure I’ll be able to rig something up if not.

jbrentd wrote:I just went back through your whole build...amazing work!

Back on page 1, you were looking for a bowden cable clip...did you ever find them? I need one as well. It's one of the many things I need for my swap (damn scope creep).

FFF wrote:Also looking for the clip that holds cable onto box.
Broken one I’m sure I’ll be able to rig something up if not.

Thanks.

I ended up rigging something using some epoxy and a modified clip, I’ll see if I can find a photo.

Decided to clean up and remove center seat support. Drilled out the spot welds, or so I thought... good heat when they were done. There also seemed to be some adhesive behind it.

Anyway chiseling it apart and turns out I did a crap job of drilling out the spot welds.

The garbage piece looked better.



I’m a crap welder... especially when welding what I consider to be paper...



Also a slow learner, was getting impatient with flapping off the body goop... should have taken more time.



Then I’m cleaning up a little on the top, working a little to hard and blow through with the flapper. So I scabbed another piece in and stopped... it was right next to where I was pulling wire in so cheated a little and drilled out the hole and stuck a grommet in.



Lizard skin to the rescue!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Haha, I found out today how bad I am at removing spot, myself. Pretty sure I have a small hole to fill in my firewall where the battery tray used to be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jbrentd wrote:Haha, I found out today how bad I am at removing spot, myself. Pretty sure I have a small hole to fill in my firewall where the battery tray used to be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve done them before and had much better luck!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So on the Weichers bolt in cage there is a plate that goes on the inside for additional support and then a backing plate under the car as well.

Way back when if I recall someone had asked how well the lizard skin adhere’s to the surface... as with everything prep is important.

Took the area where the plate goes down to bare steel. You can see how well it sticks...





Little hammer work to get the floor closer to flat... then some structural adhesive to fill. Haven’t decided if I will do a little tack welding on the edges or not... the bolts will be pinching everything. See how it looks in the AM.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I've said it before and I'll say it again, that Lizard Skin is some pretty cool stuff.

Personally speaking, I'd hide the wiring from view. Even if you don't use the car as a daily I'm sure at some point you'll want to put something back there. Might not be a bad idea to include some of those d-rings and a mesh net from an avant or Sportwagen.

PRY4SNO wrote:I've said it before and I'll say it again, that Lizard Skin is some pretty cool stuff.

Personally speaking, I'd hide the wiring from view. Even if you don't use the car as a daily I'm sure at some point you'll want to put something back there. Might not be a bad idea to include some of those d-rings and a mesh net from an avant or Sportwagen.

That’s a good idea, I agree with covering the wire exactly for that reason...

Just working on template a little more, will need some type of hinge set up I’m thinking for access.



Got the cage bolted in, will remove when I spray the lizard skin.

Also added an extra bolt hole and will make a larger plate for under the car... flattened the rear fenders , pleased with how it all turned out.

That spot where you removed the center seat support . Looks like you got it just fine but for the future- when you are welding something real thin and trying to avoid blowing through, you can use a thick piece of scrap as a backer . I’ve used aluminum before but I think I recall hearing the preferred method is copper . A bonus is It will act as a a heat sink too.