The Project Pad

i may just get the two piecers if the time comes and i dont find anything else i like...

importvisions.com has them, at least on their site theyve got em.

http://www.directconnectiontuning.com/hids.html

and here seems a very good price on HID's, even H4 dual beam ones

but dont you need the projector style headlight housings in order for the HIDs to look halfway decent? which is why the RS2's would be tits.

well, to make them not shine the shit out of other people, yes you would need the projectors. here is shots of my MK3 with Hella MK4 look headlights and HID's.... just the regular light housings. highs are H1 PIAA's. they are some bright ass stuff.

soooo...if one didnt care about shining the shit out of others, you could just throw HID's in any old headlight.

my thoughts. but leave the reflector thing in the headlight housing that blocks direct view of the bulb... i know we used to take that little thing out back in the day....

i think the projector housings make a tighter beam pattern... but bright is still bright.

all i know is that anything>stock b3 headlights at night.

got a nice package this afternoon....

83.5mm. 8.5:1comp. holla.

ahhhhhh... Looking at nice JE's never gets old..

i wont get to see mine out of the block. oh well....

dey looks nice....

but why so low on the compression?

caaauuuuuuse thats what i wanted, lol. :x

but really....idk, issam asked what comp, i said 8.5:1, he said ok, and that was that, haha

on a side note, looking into getting a fuel level gauge for my stock sender and was wondering what everyones opinions on....

autometer gauge=240-33

stock level sender= 280-40

do able or what?

Holy snap those pistons are the bees knees, that is EXACTLY what I need for my 7A, except 83mm instead of 83.5mm!!
VERY NICE!!!!!!!!!!!
:woowoo:

speeding-g60 wrote:but why so low on the compression?

NOW YOU BETTER LISTEN!!!!!!!11!!!

Wizard-of-OD wrote:

speeding-g60 wrote:but why so low on the compression?

NOW YOU BETTER LISTEN!!!!!!!11!!!

huh? me go 11.0:1?

low comp+big boost=big powerz...

idk, i just talked to a few peeps who build these motor things here and they said, go low. so...i did.

That 83.5mm bore is going to give a couple of people the shits tho...

How much material is left between the bores at 83.5mm?
It would be next to nothing on the I5's.

8.5:1 is perfect for high boost.
No coating on the piston face?

RSCoupe wrote:How much material is left between the bores at 83.5mm?
It would be next to nothing on the I5's.

No coating on the piston face?

first question, ill have to leave for issam to answer, cause im honestly not sure.


as for the coating on the piston face, i was thinking about getting it coated by swain tech. but the funds just arent there, and im moving foward.

RSCoupe wrote:How much material is left between the bores at 83.5mm?
It would be next to nothing on the I5's.

8.5:1 is perfect for high boost.
No coating on the piston face?

With an 88mm bore spacing that leaves 4.5mm spacing between the bores.
The difference between the 83.5mm bore and 83mm is a radius of approx 0.01".Grand scheme of things...not that much.

<--------- Jealous

so....im ditching the stock tank sump idea, and opted for an easy fuel cell. other problem i was going to tun into was stuffing the foam into the bottom of the stock tank, getting it to not move around, cutting it out for the sender to fit, and then getting a gauge (that autometer doesnt seem to make) to match the stock fuel sender ohms.....so....a couple bucks later....fuel cell....

do i mount it....

where the stock tank sits right up against the rear seat backs....

as you can see itll be easy to run the lines for that down to the 044 pumps under the car. theres also the option then of putting the pumps in the trunk down in the spare wheel well(im sure thatll be noisey....but who cares about noise).

in a happy medium....

this would maybe kill the idea of putting the pumps up in the trunk, which wouldnt be detrimental to me by any means....but id have to weld in some metal so that the tank sits flat and has something to bolt the straps down to.

all the way in the back...

the pumps would now have to be under the car. lines would be a bit tight back there, but still do-able. im just not sure if its a good idea to have all that weight back behind the tires. the other two positions would allow for the tank to be a bit more centered over the tires.

itd be a pain to fill the tank up with the first position, not too too bad with the second idea, easy for the third position. i brought a gas pump nozzle home from work to test out this theory.

soooo....WHAT SHOULD I DO?

i know there would be reasons to going with one over the others....but i just dont know them. so...school me.

not sure on all of this.....

i originally did a 12 gal cell in the rabbit. thought i was gonna street drive it. much like you will drive it on the street. one thing i learned is that when you run a cell in the car, inside, you have to make a box/firewall to protect the inside of the car from the cell. is your car a full trunk? that may be your way around it if it is....

and i am not sure, but i do not think you can have fuel pumps inside the car? i never did at any rate. quote the rulebook:
"1:5 Fuel Systems
Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside of the driver's compartment and within the confines of the frame and/or steel body."


i like the second idea. and you can change the lid on the thing to be one with a 45 degree angle, i have one of those around here. point it to the back, easy fill then.

there is a wall of metal running from side to side in the car....pretty much what you lean your back on when youre in the back seats, aside from the plushy stuff thatll never be in there ever again.

so im thinking that would serve as my 'wall' from the drivers compartment, but still be within the confines of the steel body.

Why don't you put the tank all the way back, like in the third picture, but rotate it 180* so the lines point towards the front? You can then put the pumps in front of it, with an access panel in the firewall to get to them for replacement/maintenance.
Having the tank all the way back will actually help your center of gravity since the car is normally so nose heavy.