The Project Pad

The 034 bracket is designed to use the OEM VR sensor. I made an adaptor to use a 12mm threaded body hall sensor in it's place. Elaw is working on a chip to use my sensors in place of the OEM flywheel sensors for MS. I believe it translates to a 34-1 trigger. As for the harmonics, mine has held up so far, on Jim's race 20v, and my MC1. The attached pic is the current setup I am running. Works really well with my MS3X.

I am confused about something - there's a box that divides the OEM 135 tooth flywheel trigger by three to make a virtual 45+1 wheel. That has nothing to do with addon trigger wheels.

MS3-Pro will read any kind of sensor you want, all config is done in software. And the circuitry for reading the sensor is way more robust than on the kit boards, you don't have to fart around trying to make a VR sensor read well at low and high RPM. Downside is they don't make the MS3-Pro anymore, they have something else that is like $200-300 more.

Fortunately, we have a leftover system that hasn't been installed yet and probably never will be since everyone who wants standalone seems to REALLY want XFI or BigStuff3 since that is what everyone else uses.

Anyway, how did you mount your wheel? When I put mine on, it sits so far back that I had to go Texas Sawzall Massacre on the timing cover, and I had to do some heavy relief of the oil pump housing for the weld bead to clear.

Mine I believe is one of the early 034 setups. The damper was machined on the backside to make it have clearance to the timing cover before the wheel was welded on.

I hear you, but I couldn't see how to do that without the wheel having a co-spatial event with the inner belt sheave. When I welded mine up, I set the wheel on thin washers. There's going to be relative motion between the outside of the damper and the inside, so I figured being in hard contact would be Bad. At any rate, even if I'd welded it right to the pulley section, it would still be in hard contact with the cover.

Very curious. And it occurs to me now that I never actually have had accessories on the engine yet. I should probably do that sooner than later.

In the first pic, you can see that the trigger wheel is pretty much tight to the damper wheel. I thought I had a better pic of this, but can't seem to find it. The second pic shows the trigger wheel is TIG welded to the inner hub portion. It's also in line with where the original back of the pulley ring was.

trollface.jpg

Pete last seen mumbling about getting more engine setback with a low mount rack, separate front diff, and a Skyline GT-R transmission...

A conversation with a non-Audi speaking friend of mine brought up a very interesting engine management possibility, that will be one heck of a lot less expensive and more robust than any kind of standalone. Looks like it will work just fine with the existing sensors.

Combine that with a new job and better prospects, and I may actually make some headway on this car again. But I may want to pull the engine back out and pull the head to make sure everything is still okay in there.

Congrats on the job upgrade! But don't be so stingy on these new engine management details!

I'll be stingy because right now it is just an idea. I'll know more when I can beg/borrow/buy a 2 channel lab scope and measure some things. Right now, I have a lot of accrued debt from unemployment that I need to pay down before I can think about spending more money on things.

2-channel Picoscope acquired.

How goes it, Pete?

Just bought a spare K24-7400 for the S60R. This may possibly find its way onto the Quantum with a ported WK exhaust manifold.

Also now have a set of 4x108 Compomotive rally wheels. Somewhat debating on adapting them to the Quantum with Audi 100 strut housings turned around backwards for geometry reasons.

I'm curious to see the compomotive rally wheels. I have a set on my 80 but am unsure of the model type.

PRY4SNO wrote:Congrats on the job upgrade! But don't be so stingy on these new engine management details!

Spilling the beans: Motronic M4.4 from a distributor-type Volvo 850/S70 turbo. They also use a Hall effect type single-tooth distributor for cam position sense, and a 60-2 crank trigger.

This is altering slightly. My friend who was going to play with 850s is going to bail. I may however be acquiring the M4.3 computer/harness from him. As I understand it, 4.3 is similar to 4.4 except it has only 512k of ROM instead of 1 meg... but because of Bosch reasons, the 4.4 doesn't actually use 1 meg, it duplicates the 512k.

Anyway. It should be tunable with TunerCat/TunerPro and a Ross-tech cable.

The only issue with this is, Ross-tech cables have gone UP in price! A technician grade one is now $600. One can buy MS3Pro as refurbs for under $900...


The things I want are MAF capability, OEM-like drivability, and a standard OBD-II data bus so that I can relay data to my Garmin VIRB because I'm a nerd, geek, AND a dork. The Motronic would get me all that.

But MS3Pro would allow poppity-bang proper antilag, map switching, E85 capability, etc. It'll do MAF just fine. There is an MS3Pro based PNP for SN95 Mustangs that will control their networked instrument cluster... which SHOULD be standard databus items, which means my Garmin might be able to read them. Need to hear back from DIYAutotune on this.

Just bought a super rare 2 piece 20vt exhaust manifold.

I may, in fact, be drunk. But drunk eBay purchases has never done me wrong before.

Granted, this manifold cost me about what two 07ks would have cost me, but they don't have the panache, the egalite', of a 20vt. Plus, I already own a 20v five cylinder that runs all the boost. Must keep balance.

I hope you bought an NOS one... I've now had 2 of the 2 piece manifolds, and they were both cracked.

Doesn't look very used. I didn't think these had cracking issues due to their flexible design, but I looked carefully at the images and it looks good.

Well that's an interesting pack job.

I only took a picture of one layer. It was shrinkwrapped and then cocooned in progressive layers of cardboard and garbage bag.

It did make it here from northeastern Europe without issue. All of the studs are intact, which is more than you can say for many 20vt manifolds. When every gram is billable you pay attention to the packaging!

Makes sense! I'm glad it made it in good shape. Just a heads up, you may need to modify your downpipe to fit around the center connection.

Acquired a 26x16 Griffin radiator from Summit marked down from $260 to $80. Was expecting a 50% Black Friday scratch and dent discount, but nope. Is okay, $80 is still a great price. I intend to use this for the RX-7, but it looks like if you flip it up on end and move a coolant outlet to the other side, it'd make a great B2 chassis radiator upgrade.

Noisy Cricket wrote:Acquired a 26x16 Griffin radiator from Summit marked down from $260 to $80. Was expecting a 50% Black Friday scratch and dent discount, but nope. Is okay, $80 is still a great price. I intend to use this for the RX-7, but it looks like if you flip it up on end and move a coolant outlet to the other side, it'd make a great B2 chassis radiator upgrade.

Damn that's IS a great deal; hell, even $260 is a good price.

Have a link?

PRY4SNO wrote:

Noisy Cricket wrote:Acquired a 26x16 Griffin radiator from Summit marked down from $260 to $80. Was expecting a 50% Black Friday scratch and dent discount, but nope. Is okay, $80 is still a great price. I intend to use this for the RX-7, but it looks like if you flip it up on end and move a coolant outlet to the other side, it'd make a great B2 chassis radiator upgrade.

Damn that's IS a great deal; hell, even $260 is a good price.

Have a link?

No link. They have a section of the retail outlet for returned or discontinued items. Sometimes there are great deals to be had, other times there are "WTF??" items like American Racing wheels that they forgot to drill lug holes into.