The Project Pad

It's interesting the different problems we experience from these cars. I've never had that happen in either of mine, but I don't doubt that it's common if you guys say it is. I just wonder why some experience this and some do not? Different driving conditions, climate, old master cylinders...i don't get it. I never had that happen in the worst summers in Florida with all that heat, but there are no Hills to heat up the brakes and I never really utilized the brakes much in other situations. Now that I'm in PA with the avant, we don't get as much heat, but I do have to use the brakes at times while going over mountains, etc. Maybe I'm just not getting the right combination of conditions to make it happen.

loxxrider wrote:It's interesting the different problems we experience from these cars. I've never had that happen in either of mine, but I don't doubt that it's common if you guys say it is. I just wonder why some experience this and some do not? Different driving conditions, climate, old master cylinders...i don't get it. I never had that happen in the worst summers in Florida with all that heat, but there are no Hills to heat up the brakes and I never really utilized the brakes much in other situations. Now that I'm in PA with the avant, we don't get as much heat, but I do have to use the brakes at times while going over mountains, etc. Maybe I'm just not getting the right combination of conditions to make it happen.

I'm not sure what causes it, or if its a certain style of MC or what.
I have seen many people complain of this issue before though. Some have said shielding the MC has helped stop some of the sponginess in the brakes on really hot summer days even when they don't have locking brake issues.
I think there's a write up on SJM about it, but I could be wrong.

Might depend on climate, mileage, how often fluid was changed or with what type. Who knows?

Seems like things always happen to me at the same time they do to others haha!

I've never heard of a MC making brakes stick, but who knows.

My car started doing this, and I know it isn't (Or I hope) it isn't and here's why.

Drive car, get brake(s) to stick. Get out of car go to each wheel and smell.

Only one wheel stinks, so i'll simply be greasing a guide pin like this.

Well, that's my hope anyway

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3N-aBP0fcs[/youtube]

My scenario is that both of the front calipers stick after driving for some time.

The pedal gets hard as hell when sticking starts. Literally zero travel downwards.

I took apart the front calipers awhile ago and re-greased the slide pins and checked the caliper pistons. They seemed to be in good condition.

Does anyone have a MC replacement DIY?

I may just take it to a shop and have them flush the whole system as well.

I'd say it's probably the master then...

pilihp2 wrote:Covering the shit out of the MC in foil/some sort of shielding helps.

Real Talk! Lol I hate hearing those 2 words. But, I did as Philip described and overdid it, at that. Used the heat reflective layer on all my brake lines and MC in engine bay as well as put up a full heat shield between the rad fan and MC. Lastly I did some sneaky "venting" lol. It works pretty well but gets too cool in the winter at which point I undo certain things. Original (OG) MC AFAIK

Ok I will go about getting the parts and will change it out.

Ok everyone, I want to spend $ on cool new parts for the 200. Yay impulse spending!!!!

I am fixated on the 2bennett turbo back exhaust system (maybe ill just get the catback for now) and a tune from Marc at EFI.....

I know my idea sounded corny, but I would really test the MC by spraying it down. It's a common issue and one of the ways to diagnose it is literally spraying it down to cool it off. Replacement MC's are $$

Your idea isn't corny at all. I have read about performing that "test" and that is exactly what I did.

So did the brakes release after the soak?

I hear that this occurs from the hygrodcopic nature of the brake fluid. Enough moisture builds up if sitting and I guess it moves to the outside bore walls where it pits from rust. That's what I read anyway. Heat then probably expands the plunger/piston faster than the outer shell and bore and the pitted bore now has this awefull coefficient of friction that makes the piston stick after depressing.

I find it so strange that yours sticks I'm the up position instead of down from the lack of force to pull it back. Makes me think something is off with the brake assist. That's just me analysing what you stated as the problem

Yea they did.

Well wtf. Stuck pedal? How do you even drive without brakes? I like my pedal stuck down but still having brakes. Please keep me updated on where you finally buy one.

No shit? I was right?

Flippin sweet.

Not sure on quality of a Centric MC but parts geek has them for $100 and theres 29 of them in stock. Maybe that's a generic part for many cars?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1991/a ... inder.html

2bennett is where wallets go to die.
They are really the only ones with a 200 20v exhaust system, but you'll pay big $ for it.
You'd probably get better quality with a custom setup from a proper shop locally. But that is of course up to you. All said and done a shop might charge you a lot.

All I know is that when I get into the car to drive it for the first time that day (cold) there is about 1" of pedal travel and the car will coast to a stop, roll down a hill ect (brakes are free moving)

As I continue to drive and heat increases the brakes stick/bind (you put me on a slight hill I would just sit there) and when I push the pedal down at this point it literally doesnt move.

Advise???

The fact that the pedal becomes hard is puzzling to me.
Possibly related to the power assist? does anything happen to the power steering when this happens??

Nothing happens to the power steering during this.

Sometimes I get a little dash warning symbol but it is random and doesn't (atleast I dont think it does) correlate to when the front brakes start to bind.

I dont know what the symbol stands for but its like a yellow circle. It must be low brake pad warning light or fluid level warning light? Right?

The pads and the fluid level are fine.

This warning light -> (O) is low brake pads (or broken pad sensors).

I bet the piston inside the MC is actually expanding and sticking the inside of it's housing, thus it doesn't affect clutch or steering. Also hence the pedal not moving as that pin is directly linked to the brake pedal.

Anyone have any experience with the 2bennett exhaust system(s) or their products in general?

It must be the MC then.

What would a bad brake bomb display in terms of symptoms? I have read over what SJM has stated on this subject.

This is really spooky !!!

I have the EXACT same symptoms thought I haven't checked my guides I hope you checked your rears.


I guarantee that your warning light is actually you being low on power steering fluid. Yes I just said it and yes you're going to be like sweet thanks! Also you can use mobile one atf instead of unicorn blood pentossion. If you figure your problem out post it! I'm going to keep looking here as its getting to be a little uneasy and it makes my wheel shake like nuts over 60mph (not fun)

Also 2nennet is really expensive and I haven't seen much love here, but that's just what I know since you asked

I did not check the rears. They don't display any binding or sticking like the fronts. They also don't emit any heat while the fronts are scalding.

And yea it doesn't surprise me about the power steering comment. I saw some weeping hoses while I was in there setting TDC for my recent distributor overhaul.

As soon as I get it fixed/figured out I will post the information.

Yea 2bennett products are very expensive but honestly you pay for what you get.

For the most part. The products look top of the line and I take that kind of approach. I may pull the trigger.

Has anyone ever got a tune/chip from "Intended acceleration" before? There seems to be some older threads in other forums (motorgeek specifically) that seem to really like this outlet. Advise?

ALSO: are we supposed to have a "splash guard" or "under tray"? If so I currently don't have one (never did) and would like to protect the pan, ect. Advise?

Thanks everyone.

2b does make generally nice parts, but they aren't the be all end all by any means. Just because something is expensive doesn't mean it's the best or even good! That said, just about anything you put on these engines will sound good. Where do you live? Certain areas have fabricators who can make you something even nicer than 2b offers for similar or lower price. If you just want something you can bolt on, then 2b isn't a bad idea.

Oh and no, there is no undertray

Some crappy photos I snapped real quick.

One of the a4 today and some time ago as well.