The Project Pad

pkw wrote:what is the verdict? puck style with sprung hub? would a spec stage 3+ be good or just a little shy in safety factor for me?
I DO want kinda friendly but I also DO want to be able to treat it like a dirt bike a little bit and have it hold, not slip. I am guessing at least Dana has driven rapidly through the woods on a bike and creatively used the clutch? When driving in a-hole mode, even in a car, it is nice to have that option.

You can definitely do that dirt bike clutch into the powerband thing with the spec stage 3 puck clutch. I did this every day on the way onto my dirt road to initiate a nice drift in second, and it never had an issue. But I really did not like driving that car in traffic. I did have a fidanza aluminum flywheel, and had planned on trying a stock 7a flywheel.

I did just contact spec about the stage 2+ in my TDI. They stated I could upgrade to a 3+ disk for $249. So maybe you could try the puck clutch and upgrade to a full disk for cheapish? Worth asking your clutch supplier.

Hank wrote:The full face ones do not take nearly the abuse the 6 puck ones do. I have never had a 6 puck 707 pressure plated clutch weld, but i have had several full faced disks weld. I don't mind the 6 pucks daily driving, 4000lb mule has one with a lightweight aluminum flywheel, and it has been daily driven by somebody for hte last year.

I hope to have a Southbend stage 4 equivalent using hte same 707 pressure plate available in the next couple of weeks for ~800$ retail. Identical to what we have put over 600wtq to on the Mule.

Cheers

Hank

I am counting the minutes until I hear more about this.

I have a SB stage 4 with 6 puck feramic disk coming...

Should I use my spec LWFW or my stock 7a fw? Bother lightening my stock FW? So, three options here. thanks

I would use a stock 7a flywheel, but that is just me. I think its all your personal preference.

Dana, what do you like about stock 7a fw? I like the idea of heavy for start from a dead stop. I honestly love my stock everything in my urs4. it is so nice for take off and rev matching is so easy to make perfect for the typical quick but non race pace. My mc bottom end in my CQ does feel heavier than a normal 20vt.

I guess for the CQ I have never felt like the spec lwfw in there is too light. I would have a bit more faith in the durability of a stock 7a fw but the spce lwfw maybe not be too flimsy.

thoughts on spec lwfw durability for my combo?

thanks folks

I think the low speed chatter and driveablilty in traffic is my biggest beef, but many people don't mind that at all. I do think a heavy solid flywheel is more durable for hard drag racing abuse. However, I launched my spec flywheel quite a lot and never had a problem, but i launched it quickly and barely slipped the clutch at all.

I think the problem only comes in when you slip it too much and get that thin friction surface hot, then it warps.

Anyways, I am certainly no authority figure on it. I didn't love how my big turbo car drove in stop and go traffic, but there are so many other variables in play. Bad tuning, low compression, sloppy drivetrain. Who knows if a heavy flywheel would have been any better.

Now that I am apparently a diesel nerd, the heavier the better.

paging Jim Green. Your opinion please?

I have been running a steel flywheel for the last 10 years. Honestly, I'd probably knock the weights off the 7a, have it balanced and call it good.

My 90 has a 14# 7a flywheel and it's perfectly streetable. Different engine so had to compare to my stock 7a stuff in the CQ.