Nick's 1991 Audi 200 20VTQ Avant - Sold

[20VAvant]

I made sure your order shipped today and you should have received a tracking number from our shipping department. If the Fed-Ex estimate is correct, you should receive your parts on Friday of this week.

With regards to fitment, you will need to take the metal sleeve out of the original throttle-cam and insert it into the new 034MS part. This will ensure the new part fits just like the old one. There is also a plastic piece that the spring sits on you will need to transfer to the new part. Make sure you are careful when you remove the spring as well since it is under pressure... you will need to set it up just as it was originally.

If you have any additional questions about this product or any others, please feel free to e-mail me at sresnick@034motorsport.com.

Thank you Sir!

[themagellan]

I made sure your order shipped today and you should have received a tracking number from our shipping department. If the Fed-Ex estimate is correct, you should receive your parts on Friday of this week.

With regards to fitment, you will need to take the metal sleeve out of the original throttle-cam and insert it into the new 034MS part. This will ensure the new part fits just like the old one. There is also a plastic piece that the spring sits on you will need to transfer to the new part. Make sure you are careful when you remove the spring as well since it is under pressure... you will need to set it up just as it was originally.

If you have any additional questions about this product or any others, please feel free to e-mail me at sresnick@034motorsport.com.

Thank you Sir!

This was nice of you 034 people, hopefully more of this starts happening and some parts integrity gets updated.

[20VAvant]

Need some advice.
at idle I am trying to achieve 1 lambda. When i decrease fuel, my idle goes down, but my lambda goes to 1.2.
How do I adjust this so I can idle at 700-800 at 1 lambda? Or do I just accept a high idle?
Any other concerns such as vacuum leaks that could cause this?
Thanks

[WOMBAT]

There is an idle screw on the throttle body you could try.

[20VAvant]

I'm a newb. Where is this screw at? my throttle position sensor is reading 0..

[20VAvant]

Figured it out!
Thanks guys

[20VAvant]

Update:
Throttle cam went in very easily, looks great, thanks 034!
Plastic piece stuck in throttle after that was removed it idles well!
Tuned in the fuel, then turned up the boost!
After a few adjustments it hit 18 PSI.
Woah is it an entirely different car!

I want to say thanks to Chris (loxxrider) for convincing me on VEMS and bigger injectors!

[loxxrider]

Glad you are getting it sorted out. I knew that throttle cam would be a big help

Just make sure you are seeing 0.85 lambda at 18 psi and your engine will stay a happy engine. Make sure you have some kind of boost cut on too so you don't spike to a ridiculous boost level with no tuning in that range. I'd tell you how to do it, but I am not with my VEMStune now.

[20VAvant]

Chris,
Under Base setup -> RevLimit/Overrun/Safety. I set the overboost fuel cut off to 225kPa.

[loxxrider]

Very good!

[20VAvant]

Anyone have advice with hard starting?
I've changed several values on the afterstart and cranking enrichment. Used the throttle to the floor to figure out it was lean. Still takes two or three cranks, and when it catches it does a few big drops and sometimes shuts off sometimes keeps idling. After about 10 seconds it runs fine.

Bad starter?
Any advice? I'm worried i'll get it somewhere and it won't start for me.

Also noticing alot of oil around intake boots....

[loxxrider]

Oil around the intake boot? Probably coming from the crank case breather. Check that out.

I usually just adjust it by ear/feel, but that may require a bit more experience. Here is something that Matt Chaloux wrote a few days ago that
might help.

I had essentially the same problem but with VEMS. Huge flooding. I adjusted my cranking enrichment and cranking settings a lot and now it fires up great. It took me a while to figure out and I had double checked everything. I was to the point of thinking my cam was 180 degrees out (even though it was 180 out originally and I fixed it).

I don't know where the settings are in 034 [ignore this part because you are using VEMS]but set your cranking enrichment very low and crank. I also stopped the prime pulse. Go up from there until it sputters. Then until it starts but won't idle. And then so it idles. Etc. If you do it this way you'll stop fouling the plugs so it doesn't take forever to try again

[chaloux]

Yeah my car is funny, still not perfect. This morning I flooded it because I touched the throttle pedal. Note to self - DON'T TOUCH THE THROTTLE PEDAL, IT WILL FLOOD! lol. I have my after start and warm-up enrichment back to stock (base from Marc) but just changed my cranking settings.

I also think I'm having extra trouble because until spark wire 5 warms up it doesn't fire all the time because of a poor connection.

But what Chris quoted above is right, it will help you get it sorted without flooding it (which sucks because you're out of commission until it dries out). I think the biggest thing for me was eliminating the prime pulse but that's cause my fuel pump is ON as soon as I turn the key to on.

[Mcstiff]

I turned off prime pulse and set individual injector firing when cranking (base setup>injector settings). Still not perfect but about what I expect with E85 in the cold and no ISV. Increasing the afterstart time could help too.

[chaloux]

Also what is the difference between warmup enrichment and afterstart enrichment? Don't they kinda do the same thing?

[Mcstiff]

Afterstart is enrichment for a fixed number of cycles after the car starts. Warmup is enrichment purely driven by coolant temp. Afterstart used to be called "choke" but now instead of limiting air we are enriching fuel.

[chaloux]

Right, so it happens regardless of temp. Mine starts up great while hot or even run for a minute. I really think it has to do with the crap spark plug wires.

[Mcstiff]

Well, you set the number of cycles at - 40 and 70 and it follows a slope between the two. Without a log/being there it's difficult to say what's up with yours.

[20VAvant]

Thanks for the input guys!

I still have prime pulse turned on. I think I will turn it off and let it sit till the weekend and do what Chris suggested.
I though all fuel pumps came on when car power was turned on?
It'll start now with the pedal about half depressed, but hates itself for about 10 seconds and then idles fine and runs fine.

[loxxrider]

Don't worry, you will get it figured out with some more playing.

Maybe just try cracking the throttle open a little (rather than 50%) and see if that helps. I'm pretty sure that would be an indication that the car is getting too much fuel on start up. In that case, try taking some fuel out. For what it's worth, you shouldn't have to wait that long! You can just pull the plugs out and crank if over for a little while (with injectors unplugged or throttle floored so they don't fire) and it will be ready to go again. If it has already sat for a day, it should be ready to go for sure. I've had plenty of experience with this... one time I took the whole fuel rail off and cranked it totally expecting nothing to happen and it ran for a few seconds to my surprise lol.

Again, follow the procedure:

*Priming pulse (start at zero)
*Cranking pulsewidth (increase until it sputters then dies above set cranking rpm)

Matt, I don't understand why you'd be getting this flooding... generally when I'm having a hard start condition (with VEMS) I can get it to start by applying a little throttle.

The fuel pumps do always come on when the key is turned (not cranking), but I think Matt was saying that his comes on and stays on.

[chaloux]

Matt, I don't understand why you'd be getting this flooding... generally when I'm having a hard start condition (with VEMS) I can get it to start by applying a little throttle.

The fuel pumps do always come on when the key is turned (not cranking), but I think Matt was saying that his comes on and stays on.

Okay I've been trying to figure this out - is the pump supposed to be on while cranking or not? I originally had it wired not and it would get very little/no fuel. Which can obviously be sorted out in VEMS. But I thought it should be on. If it should be off I can change that very easily, one wire. That would explain a lot. A Damn lot.

[chaloux]

Marc just confirmed that it should be on while cranking. I think I need to adjust my pulse widths as well. Start from scratch again.

[loxxrider]

Yeah, on while cranking... but not stay on after the key is turned and the pump does its initial prime. That is what I thought you were saying.

[Mcstiff]

The pump stays on... You can set how long after power up it takes for the pump to turn on and how long after inactivity (engine dies) that the pump turns off, both in seconds. Are you saying after power up without starting it should turn off? I'll agree with that.

[loxxrider]

I'm saying it shouldn't stay on after you turn the key (without cranking) and it does it's initial prime. Then when you start cranking of course it should be on again.