The Project Pad

I see your shop now has 1.5hp

AngryTaco wrote:I see your shop now has 1.5hp

yea but how much torque?

you'll get the most if you put em on the corn fuel

dana wrote:

AngryTaco wrote:I see your shop now has 1.5hp

yea but how much torque?

depends how fast they are running

HP =

RPM x TQ
---------------
5252

Therefore:

HP x 5252
-------------- = Torque
RPM

Since horses arent measured in RPM, we'll change that for trots per minute (TPM)

Therefore at 1 TPM they will be producing 7878 ft-lbs of torque. Damn.

Sorry to hear about you and the girl. Keep movng forward on the tdi swap!

PRA4WX wrote:Sorry to hear about you and the girl. Keep movng forward on the tdi swap!

2nd, sorry to hear. Lemme know if you need anything.

Fing girls!

look, I actually did something on this project this evening and pulled the 7a.

Nice work... this should be done by Tuesday then?

PRY4SNO wrote:Nice work... this should be done by Tuesday then?

it could be, but probably will be a little longer

So, this means carlisle at least? Also, a holset by then?

glibobbo21 wrote:So, this means carlisle at least? Also, a holset by then?

hopeful for carlisle, probably still stock by then since i am using a stock 80 clutch for now......but we all know how long things stay stock.

Good to see some headway on this! Keep it up, need more B3 cars at Carlisle.

Mine is surrounded and covered in about 14-18" of snow. I need to get over, clean it up, and get to work.

DE80q wrote:Good to see some headway on this! Keep it up, need more B3 cars at Carlisle.

Mine is surrounded and covered in about 14-18" of snow. I need to get over, clean it up, and get to work.

talk about a demotivator! I need to pressure wash my nasty engine bay but cant figure out how I am going to pull that off since everything is frozen.

First test fit in the bay



Appears that a filter is not going to fit here. Is there something that can mount where the filter was and make it remote? Also, how the hell am i going to get this nasty bay clean in the middle of winter....Not sure yet, maybe 10 cases of brake cleaner?

Can't tell by the picture, but would you be able to use a different engine mount (Ie mustang mounts that are rectangular) or is the frame itself going to interfere? I'm sure you could come up with a flange to have a remote filter, but yeah..... let's avoid that ha.

im really not sure. The oil pan is riding on the cross member, and it looks like some notching will have to be done to one or both. So the way the engine is sitting in the bay right now is not its final spot, i couldn't get the bellhousing bolts lined up with the oil pan issue. Just guessing though, the actual welded on metal mount arm would interfere with a filter...i think. Need to check more closely before I do anything drastic. Kind of confused about the pan issues since I don't remember reading about others encountering this problem. Its just steel and i have a cutoff wheel and welder, so not a real problem. I just ran out of motivation for today. I think it will simpler when I look at it with a fresh mind later.

dana wrote:im really not sure. The oil pan is riding on the cross member, and it looks like some notching will have to be done to one or both. So the way the engine is sitting in the bay right now is not its final spot, i couldn't get the bellhousing bolts lined up with the oil pan issue. Just guessing though, the actual welded on metal mount arm would interfere with a filter...i think. Need to check more closely before I do anything drastic. Kind of confused about the pan issues since I don't remember reading about others encountering this problem. Its just steel and i have a cutoff wheel and welder, so not a real problem. I just ran out of motivation for today. I think it will simpler when I look at it with a fresh mind later.

If you have hood clearance you could easily run a few hockey puck(or something not ghetto) as spacers to put the motor up off the cross member. I'm sure you'll figure it out, looks like there is more than a little wiggle room with that huge motor in there

Hi !

Nice project here !

Worked a bit on AHU engine (for Vanagon T3 swap).
"Low range" gearbox will not be a pain as the engine will be a bit "short" on a 90Q.

Why not considering modding the engine for a TDI-M spec ?
With injection pump from 1.9TD, turbo from 1.6TD and slighty bigger injectors (can't recall the engine it's from, 110hp TDI maybe), that's 120whp+ easily gained, which is much more confortable I guess

In case you're interested, I could find the full setup

If you're interested, I can modify my motor mounts to raise the engine. I modified them for an East Coast customer who had a VR6 turbo swap in a 4kq where the factory height would mean the motor hit the hood upon torque. He loves em so far....and no dents!

I wouldnt mind doing a partial trade with you for that 7A oil pan too if you like

AngryTaco wrote:If you're interested, I can modify my motor mounts to raise the engine. I modified them for an East Coast customer who had a VR6 turbo swap in a 4kq where the factory height would mean the motor hit the hood upon torque. He loves em so far....and no dents!

I wouldnt mind doing a partial trade with you for that 7A oil pan too if you like

I think even with the trans angled as high as it can before it 'tops out' the pan still hits, so i think i will need to cut something. I think I am going to stick to the factory mounts of some sort if possible for vibration reasons. I think nice stiff mounts would make this thing rattle too much. 4 cylinder diesel isn't exactly the smoothest engine around.

Also, I think my 7a pan is already spoken for. A friend of mine wrecked his 20vt 90q and needs the pan.

Sweet trick I used on my mk2's was to use nylon washers and neoprene (Soft thick) rubber washers smushed down with hockey pucks. The vibration was non existent, as the little washers dampened everything very well

dana wrote:

AngryTaco wrote:If you're interested, I can modify my motor mounts to raise the engine. I modified them for an East Coast customer who had a VR6 turbo swap in a 4kq where the factory height would mean the motor hit the hood upon torque. He loves em so far....and no dents!

I wouldnt mind doing a partial trade with you for that 7A oil pan too if you like

I think even with the trans angled as high as it can before it 'tops out' the pan still hits, so i think i will need to cut something. I think I am going to stick to the factory mounts of some sort if possible for vibration reasons. I think nice stiff mounts would make this thing rattle too much. 4 cylinder diesel isn't exactly the smoothest engine around.

Why does everyone think I only offer one durameter lol

I do have softer than stock if you find those mounts are sufficient enough for ya

How much clearance do you need with the subframe? I wouldnt think it would be all that much

i guess i assumed you would only have stiffer stuff because most people want to stiffen it up

i dont think I need much clearance. Can probably make it up with the pan or the subframe. Subfame is probaby easier to mod. I sent an email to some of the other guys who have done this to see if i am missing something obvious. Maybe i can use a pan from a fwd 80.