The Project Pad

Midnight wrote:How wide of a wheel/tire can I run before I run into issues?

I currently run 18"x9.5" ET20mm with an 235/40-18 all around and haven't had any issues, it is pretty tight up front though..

20VAvant wrote:I currently run 18"x9.5" ET20mm with an 235/40-18 all around and haven't had any issues, it is pretty tight up front though..

Are you running stock suspension?

Opened up the dash to re-solder the connectors today. It looks like someone has done some work on them before. And some of the pins on the 26-pin connectors on the main board are soldered together is it supposed to be like that?

Well I re-soldered the connectors like they were and the displays all work. But now when I have the headlights on and turn on the turn signal on, both arrows flash and the dash back lights flash opposite them. Grounding issue? Anybody know specifically where to look?

I thought the 200 was reliable enough to daily So I sold my A6 on Sunday to make room for a truck. I drove the 200 40mi up into Wisconsin tonight with my dad to go look at an f250. Just as I started going through the gears after I dropped him of at his car I noticed the 200 was bogging down a lot so I popped it outa gear and rolled of into a parking lot. Glanced down, and she was dead, tried to restart and she cranks over but wouldn't start. I got as far as figuring out that the coil isn't firing before it got dark. Then we broke out the tow rope and drug it back to my dads office parking lot. Then he said something about hooking the computer up to it and I remembered that the last time I scanned it, there was an error saying that the engine speed sensor was bad. But the car was running fine, so I kinda forgot about it. How big of a job is it to replace the engine speed sensor? It looks like its under the PS res correct? It there anything else I should check before replacing the engine speed sensor?

There's 2 sensors there looking at the flywheel and ring gear - replace them both; not hard to do. Cheapest price I've found is on ebay and I'm running the ebay sensors now without issue. Also check that the distributor is still spinning in case the gear has broken.

They are SUPER easy - You just need a small allen key (But clean the area and use penetrating fluid or you WILL break the Aluminum POS bracket that it uses). They are on the driver side right where the flywheel is like wombat said

I bought this one below that replaced both g28 and g4. If I were you I would replace both since your car 'should' be able to run with just the g4 crank sensor running - check your wire orientation too!

As a bonus mine actually came in an OEM beige color and works wonderful.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CRANK-POSIT ... b9&vxp=mtr

Also consider yourself lucky that is a very small problem in the grand scheme of things

Finally got both sensors replaced but its still not starting. Its all tore apart for a timing belt job right now. I'm going to check the distributor once I get the belts back on and replace my seized A/C compressor.

In other news, my dad bought another silly Swedish car yesterday. So, I get to drive his old 9-3 until I get my car back on the road.

Is the timing pin still in the flywheel?

AngryTaco wrote:Is the timing pin still in the flywheel?

I would have to separate the engine from the trans to see it, correct?

Midnight wrote:

AngryTaco wrote:Is the timing pin still in the flywheel?

I would have to separate the engine from the trans to see it, correct?

No either look through the sensor port or remove the starter

Finally got to work on the car last night, checked timing, including distributor. Pulled the g4 sensor and stuck a borescope in the hole but I couldn't find the timing pin.

Then I got kinda distracted when my neighbor came over with a Tesla he brought home from work (Tesla dealer tech). We drove it around some and he pointed out some of the flaws with it, its a nice car but the fact that Tesla is still a new company really shows.

Will pull the starter to look again for the pin this weekend hopefully.

Midnight wrote:Well I re-soldered the connectors like they were and the displays all work. But now when I have the headlights on and turn on the turn signal on, both arrows flash and the dash back lights flash opposite them. Grounding issue? Anybody know specifically where to look?

Weird, I am getting the exact same cluster problem… haha so I guess it's "common"

Crap

drill it out through the starter hole and tap in a new one. That or weld

AngryTaco wrote:drill it out through the starter hole

My clutch is on the way out anyway. Im going to pull the engine, clean it all up, replace the clutch and flywheel, and put all new hoses on.

Midnight wrote:
My clutch is on the way out anyway. Im going to pull the engine, clean it all up, replace the clutch and flywheel, and put all new hoses on.

Good idea to replace the clutch considering it was probably a ball bearing from the throw out bearing that took out the the timing pin.

Wow its been awhile. Long story short, when the timing pin broke I parked the car and focused on other life moves. Like going to college. I ended up getting the car out over winter break, the engine came out, flywheel in the Bridgeport, new pin, back together, and

It's still mostly the same car it was before, but today the power steering and power brakes became intermittent. They will both come and go together and the BRAKE light comes on when they go out. The Bentely points to a hydraulic pressure problem, but I haven't found much about that online. Anybody have any experience with these symptoms?

It's definitely a hydraulic pressure problem. The brakes and steering are both assisted by the power steering pump. If you are low on fluid, have a bad leak, some other pressure problem, or the pump is bad, you will experience the problems you've described.

I had intermittent problems when a piece of blister foil that fell in the hyd fluid bottle went in the reservoir and kept flopping around in a specific banjo fitting. Came and went constantly.

Found a leak. One of the banjo fittings at the pump got pushed up against the rad. end tank when I torqued the banjo bolt, came loose when the engine started moving around.

Audi also got featured in one of the guys snow drifting videos.
Donuts at 6:00-6:20 & Launch at 8:30

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S775tjsj-Vk[/youtube]

Should've been more footage! Your launch was better even locked rear?

Ik, I was hoping for more footage of me, but the camera was in the lead car most of the night. Launch was 6500RPM, 2nd gear, rear unlocked.

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Buncha hooligans!

We Automotive Tech majors know how to have fun.

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