The Project Pad

FFF wrote:Accusump showed up...



I think I may install it behind the engine.

Looking forward to see what you do because I have one too that I’ve yet to install. Using an electronic pressure valve with sensor ?

Great work, as usual!

Looking great !!

love the attention to detail.

Afterthought wrote:

FFF wrote:Accusump showed up...



I think I may install it behind the engine.

Looking forward to see what you do because I have one too that I’ve yet to install. Using an electronic pressure valve with sensor ?

Yes, using the electric pressure valve - I also picked up the Ultra Performance oil filter housing fitting from Alex for the install.

When I was at Gatebil in Sweden I saw several S2's mounted in different locations - I think I liked the behind the engine the best but am going to dig through some photos (I think that I took pictures... hopefully!).

I’ve got the accusump but I need to size the electric valve. What confused me about the electric valve is finding one that won’t dump 2 qts of oil in when I’m just trying to idle .

I have a pressure gauge hooked up but it’s at the very end of the circuit and at idle I’m showing around 1.5 bar hot . At this pressure if I understand right , even the lowest pressure valve they sell would open , unless I turn it off which I’m 100% sure I wouldn’t remember to flip a switch every time I idle .

So what I’m thinking I might do is hook up a gauge at my oil block which is just downstream of the oil filter but upstream of the check valve to the head , this way I can see what is the normal pressure the accusump will be seeing - then I will know if my valve is sized right .

Regarding location I’ll have to look at some pics . Behind the engine might be clean . You won’t have this problem but I have a bunch of wires and crap there , might be nice to cover it up.

The two primary choices you have are as follows - install a switch that you use to activate and only turn it on when you are not idling, use a low enough pressure that it doesn’t activate at idle... I’m going to try to have it wired in to my ECU so that it won’t activate unless over XX RPM (there may be a better metric to use but I haven’t given it much thought yet!!


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That makes sense . Interesting . It’s almost like a simple circuit could be used like you’re saying . Like the old oil pressure monitoring relay, but in reverse . Something that sees rpm and or throttle position or something to give the valve power , then when it’s on it does it’s thing .

Once I get around to the install we’ll see what I can come up with . And I’ll have to look at potential locations too

jbrentd wrote:Great work, as usual!

Thanks!


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highlander69 wrote:Looking great !!

love the attention to detail.

Thanks! Eventually I’ll be able to take it for a drive...


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Afterthought wrote:That makes sense . Interesting . It’s almost like a simple circuit could be used like you’re saying . Like the old oil pressure monitoring relay, but in reverse . Something that sees rpm and or throttle position or something to give the valve power , then when it’s on it does it’s thing .

Once I get around to the install we’ll see what I can come up with . And I’ll have to look at potential locations too

I’ll be sure to note what I end up doing for sure...

Still picking away...

Built a bracket for 3 relays, high beams fan and a spare.




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Clean install on those relays. Looking good.


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I just noticed you mentioned Raychem. That is some seriously nice stuff. Typically MIL-Spec/MIL-STD stuff, arguably the best out there. Do you have an Aerospace background by chance?

cuatrokoop wrote:I just noticed you mentioned Raychem. That is some seriously nice stuff. Typically MIL-Spec/MIL-STD stuff, arguably the best out there. Do you have an Aerospace background by chance?

Little bit of everything - spent many years working with helicopters (they support our industry) - learned lots from the engineers but my primary business is Seismic... lots of complex wiring that works in very hostile environments. Technology has significantly reduced the amount of wiring but learned a ton over 20 years in the field - I sit behind a desk now but old habits and all...

Few work pictures -

Simple setup... North Slope Alaska

Few more






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1500+ kilometers of wire deployed... all has to work... testing and deploying...

Bad ass
Dude look at the tires on that thing ! So cool.

Afterthought wrote:Bad ass
Dude look at the tires on that thing ! So cool.

72” X 72”... total pain when you got a flat!


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Seem to be wandering around the car a bit... pulled the rear lights, polished them up and new butyl installed, wasn’t certain what thickness to use so went with a 3/8 (9mm)... seems to be the right size, lights seem to sit where they need to.

So I’ve been going back and forth for quite sometime on the best way to proceed with brakes and electronic throttle.... Alex’s stuff is very nice but it wasn’t the entire solution as I still would have needed to do something for the throttle..

Weighed the total cost of multiple options and decided to go with a Tilton floor mount pedal set, I didn’t order anything else with it as I wanted to ensure it would work without cutting up the firewall. Total cost will be a little more but not drastically based on what I was looking at - shipping duties etc included in my evaluation). I guess in for a penny in for a pound

Very pleased. The seating, pedal and shifter positioning feel very good!!

Tapatalk double post...

That's badass.

I would love to see more more detail on how the pedal box gets mounted. I may have missed it but are you going with the stock brake booster or dual master cylinders?

MikeB25 wrote:I would love to see more more detail on how the pedal box gets mounted. I may have missed it but are you going with the stock brake booster or dual master cylinders?

I’ll definitely post photos and show how I mount them for sure. I’ll be using dual Tilton 78 series master cylinders. The pedals have a brake bias bar for managing the bias and you can change pedal location to improve mechanical advantage for pressure.

Decided to play a little today.... messed around with hydro dipping stuff, thought I had timing and activator figured out.

My brain was not working... had planned on the Geckos coming out of fender instead of from underneath... didn’t quite put enough activator on graphic when I did the tank so minor imperfections.

Used a Rubbermaid bin, something slightly larger would have helped I think... and then an absorbent to clean between dips.





And flat pieces are much simpler. Quite happy how the bracket turned out.



Don’t plan on redoing tank unless I decide it’s too much. Thinking most of it disappears once car is back together (or that’s the plan).




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