The Project Pad

You might try the sedan 01a. If I remember correctly, 5th gear is taller in that. But let's be honest here, on the highway in my 80q, it still needs another gear.

I saw your ad for that and I didn't previously know there was a difference.
I since grabbed my Bentley and broke down all the 01A's from the manual...

and the 01E's too

Also had the 012's from when I did my Cabriolet Manual swap


Anyway, there is about a 6 MPH difference in 5th gear at 3000 RPM between the 01A's from the CQ and the sedan. You're going 64.8 in the CQ and 70.7 in the Sedan. That's a pretty big difference!
But, put yourself in 6th gear in the 01E from a B5 S4 and you're going 83.5 - or 101.4 in the TDI trans!

So it looks like the UrS 01E is actually has a slightly better 5th gear too. That's good, as I have one waiting for this 01A to die too.

Yeah, it's a big difference even with the standard URS car 01E. As little as I expect to drive my coupe on the highway, this may be the best bet dollar for dollar.

I am running a 6 speed from an ABY S2 and 6th gear is still to low. I am having Hank put an tdi 6th gear in a later 01e.

Greg W.

You may end up with aot more wrapped up in putting in any 01E than you think. There are a lot of little parts that either need to be fabbed, or found. I got my trans for cheap, and still have about $800 into it. Oh, and I haven't gotten a 4Kq driveshaft yet either...

True, there is a lot more involved than just the trans.

Maybe if you still have the sedan 01A at Carlisle I'll get it from you. At least that's better than what I have now. I didn't realize the CQ 01A is probably the worst transmission for a V8 ever

90quattrocoupe wrote:I am running a 6 speed from an ABY S2 and 6th gear is still to low. I am having Hank put an tdi 6th gear in a later 01e.

Greg W.

Do you do a lot of highway driving?

How is the rest of he gearing with the 01E?

I don't have the rest of the gear ratios for the ABY S2 trans, but the ratios are good. Not too short or long. The new gear box will match the B5S4 ratios, except for 6th.

When I drive the car, it is mostly freeway driving.

Of course, with the V8 torque, I could pull tree stumps with 1st gear. It is too low for a V8 really.

Greg W.

I have the B5 S4 01e in my coupe. Overall I'm happy with it, but 1st is really short and 1-2 could stand to be farther apart. A taller 6th for freeway cruising would be nice too since its a street car. I have considered an 0a3 swap from a b6 S4 because (1) it has gear ratios for a V8 and (2) I love the way it shifts in my S4. Much nicer than the 01e in the coupe. Quite a bit more work to adapt though.

Grillage wrote:

The other side had the ring insert shown below it inside it. I removed that and the axle fits - no need for trimming.

Huh, I had the exact same issue running A6 CV's in the 82mm housing.
They make a nice screeching sound when you try to move it huh?

I figured it out before I put everything back together thankfully. The little bit of grinding did the trick though!

Made some more progress on some little things.
I took the rear wiper motor out and discovered it's dead. Anyone have one?

Also, took apart the front motor and cleaned it all up =- only to figure out today that the stalk was the problem. I have wipers in the front but no intermittent setting. I replaced today with a stalk from the parts bin but it doesn't have the hazard switch on it so I need the proper coupe one too!

Also got a GoPro for christmas! I'll get better at these videos but here's one from today (before I fixed the wiper & also found that my PS headlight had come unplugged)

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Bcq0NAeUXg[/youtube]
https://youtu.be/8Bcq0NAeUXg

I'm going to take some Christmas Bonus money and get the car dyno tuned before long. I need to get the IM switchover working first though.
Also, I want to lower my idle a bit. I'm running at about 1100 RPM and it feels better at about 800-900 but when I did so by changing the RefDC on the Idle iar Valve Reference Position chart from 60% to 47%, I would stall at stoplights. So I put it back. It has stalled like that on me with my current setup twice now - once a few weeks ago and once last week. Where can I adjust this to not happen?

Also, I have had an inconsistency between the coolant temp gauge and the value from the vems temp sensor on the back of the head. I'll be at 90* per VEMS and at the double dots that mean 110* on the gauge.

I know they're different sensors and since VEMS was reading 90-92 at highway speed I figured it was correct and that maybe the one on the drivers side head (for the temp gauge) was off. So I replaced it. It now reads way LOW when I am at full temp- like 70*. So what should I believe? Have others had problems with inconsistent temps?

Another issue is that I still can't get the speedo to work. I've tried a couple speedos and had no luck. Strangely, with VEMSTune open on the laptop I see the correct KM/Hr. However, with my little tablet in the car, VEMSTune tells me I'm going about 100x the correct speed. weird.

Also, Anyone have a good black dash?

You want to get the idle ref/dc to about 200rpm above idle and then let the PID control pull id down to target idle RPM. Follow this and then spend your time tuning PID: http://vems.hu/vt/help/v3/v3_idle_control_menu.html

Awesome, thanks!

And that's target idle. I set one of my gauges on the home screen to target idle rpm because that way you know exactly what VEMS is shooting for and then tuned the ref/dc to be 200rpm above that from cold start to full warm and then tuned my PID from there.

on your temperature quandry, the temperature curve of some of the v8 sensors seems to be different than others. I've seen 3 different curves so far.

your best bet is to calibrate it yourself using the 14pt curve. unthread the sensor (or use your spare) dunk it in some boiling water with the harness attached and set that point for 100c. similarly hang the sensor in open air and set the bin for the current outdoor temperature. lastly get some water to just above freezing and set that bin. then simply fill in the blanks inbetween to generate a somewhat linear curve.

I've done a bunch of research on the temperature curves for the different sensors.

It looks like the sensor in the back side of the PS head is the same as a URS car. 035 919 369M is the part number. This is what goes to VEMS.
I've been using the bosch default curve for this. I just flashed the NTC 256/1900 patch into the box today but I don't really know what that does. Should I adjust the curve from the Bosch default?


What exactly does the patch do?

I've been chasing down what I think/thought are slight overheating issues but I may just have the wrong readings.


Next is the sensor for the gauge in the instrument cluster.
I have a bunch of different Bentley Manuals and looked up the test readings for each of them to see if any were the same. I originally had 077 919 501 in there which read way hot all the time. Now I have 035919369M (the same as the back of the head) which I know is wrong - and it's too cool

So to summarize, when the car is at operating temp - which I am calling the times where I am either on the highway or driving in the city without a bunch of traffic lights -
I see 92-93 on the VEMS readout from the proper ABH sensor marked 035919369M
From the proper ABH sensor 077919501 the CQ gauge is at the 110 degree mark
From another 035919369M - the CQ gauge is at the 80 degree mark.

Below is what the Bentleys say the sensor that feed that car's gauge should read...



I'm going to try the simplest route which should be using the CQ's MFTS to feed the CQ cluster. Hopefully it will fit in there!

Also, now that the car is running mostly well, I am going to do a dyno tune to see maximize the power I'm putting down.

In order to do this, I needed to get the Intake Manifold Switchover function working.

As of this morning I have it working at least in test mode from VEMS through one of the steppers! I have it set to 4100 RPM - can anyone confirm this?
Also, it was defaulting to what appears to me to be the higher rev position. Am I correct that with no vacuum it is in the lower RPM position and at 4100 RPM it should let vacuum into the bellows and pull the IM arm? I just check the invert box to get it to function that way.

You know, there's all this great technical data here, and i'm just waiting for another video where you really get on it....

themagellan wrote:You know, there's all this great technical data here, and i'm just waiting for another video where you really get on it....

I'll get you one soon!

I did a little bit of science over the weekend!
decided to just make my own curve...



Did so for both the CLT sensor (035919369M) and the one for the gauge in the IC (077919501)


Then I compared them with the generic Bosch curve built into VEMS:

Clearly different curves but the vast majority of the difference is in the non-operating temp zone.

Here is a detail of just 70-100 degrees:


So I will likely change my CLT values in VEMS but I don't think it will change the readout at operating temp much if at all. The curves seems to intersect at 90*

Trying to fix a few things today.

Did an oil change so I could replace a couple of the sensors on the car. The oil temp sensor was broken off so I wanted to replace it and also the 1.8 bar oil sensor.

Did that but needed to remove the alternator to get to the temp sensor. While I had that off, I decided to try and replace my power steering pump to solve a loud whiny steering problem.

I bought one from Force5 a few weeks ago and it showed up super rusty and dirty but I cleaned it up and got it ready for the surgery it would need. Since I have no brake bomb, I needed to disable that output port by removing the e center piston from the pump. When I did that, the spring from one side was already broken but since I don't need that output I just took it all out and reinstalled the pump.

When I got the car back together and teied to test the pum, all was good for a second as I turned the wheel from side to side. But a half mile into my test drive I have zero power steering.

Having never messed with one of these things before, is there something simple I could be missing?

On the bright side, I was able to take the serpentine belt off without draining the coolant...

Force5 and shokan is a no go in my book.

I didn't know there was an 01A with better gear ratios.

Anyone ever use the S2 ARV transmission?

see ratios below for what I have now, the slightly better sedan B3 trans and the S2...


Seems WAY better for the V8 (and I know the 01E is better still)
There are a few for sale on the S2 forum

The fact that it didn't come on any cars that came to the states is a good reason not to know about it. A 6mph difference at 3k over the sedan 01A and still keeping the all aluminum case is pretty nice though. What would it cost to have one of those ARV units shipped over here?