The Project Pad

im with oyu dave, i thought it was in the hub itself

So last night I made a little discovery. I'd been focusing on making sure the intercooler would fit within the bumper, and I succeeded... it fits wonderfully inside the bumper. As long as the fog lights aren't installed! :frustrated:

The width of the intercooler and its fittings exceeds the space between the fog lights. So I'm trying to figure out what my options are, other than leaving the fog lights out which will probably be my short-term solution.

One thing I'm wondering is whether there's another bumper that might fit on there and offer more room? I know an S2 bumper would probably be a good solution but they're pretty spendy and hard to come by. Is there any other option? Would a CQ bumper be of any use?

I thought that you would run into that problem. :(

The Cq bumper will not fit. The fenders are different as well. The arches start in a different location.

i have a spare blk 80 bumper if you wnat it

and center vents

my2000apb wrote:i have a spare blk 80 bumper if you wnat it

and center vents

Me too

DE80q wrote:I thought that you would run into that problem. :(

It's actually pretty close. The IC by itself fits fine, but with the silicone elbows on each end it ends up being maybe 2" too long.

I'm wondering if modding the IC so the inlet + outlet are on the rear rather than the sides would do the trick.

Thats basicaly what the srt4 intercooler is. Should take care of the problem.

I spent more on Vibrant tight cast 90's in 2.5" than I did on my intercooler...but it fixed the problem you're having, and you'd only need 50$ worth(2) not $75(3) like me haha

I had thought about that, but I wasn't sure it would give enough clearance. Do you by any chance have pix of how you did it?

BTW Treadstone has 2.5" cast elbows for $21.00 each - about the cheapest I've seen. Also the Treadstone TR6 IC is about 1" shorter than the one I have, I'm wondering if combining the two might be a solution.

You might want to cut off the outlets and hav the cast elbows welded on in their place. I might hav to do that with mine too.

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45246"
My post from June 1st on the first page has a decent shot of the IC, and Tim's post on the second page from August 3rd shows one endtank up close

I cut the outlets off of the IC and some off from one end of the 90's, then had them welded on. JUST BARELY fits between the headlights. Obviously not the same exact circumstance as you Eric, but allowed me to cram 10lbs of shit in a 5lb box

So does anyone need a laugh today?

Take a look at these warnings from two sheets of paper that were inside the box with my brake rotors:



So to summarize: before installing, it is important to remove any coating that is on the brake rotors. Also, the rotors are shipped ready for installation, and you should _not_ remove the coating that is on them.

Okay that's it. This car hates me! And at the moment the feeling is mutual. I've done about 6 unorthodox engine/trans swaps in Saabs, including an auto-to-manual conversion and turbocharging one from scratch and in total those projects haven't taken half the time, cost, and grief of this one! :(

Today's topic is "oil pressure senders that don't fit right". Observe:

The sender on the right is the one that came with the AAN motor. It doesn't leak or anything but both the gauge and light outputs are a little wonky, so I bought a new one. No, not an Audi-branded one from the dealer but a VDO one with all the same electrical specs and the same M10x1.0 thread.

Well... almost the same thread. The one on the right fits (of course), the one on the left does not, it only screws in about halfway. Why doesn't it fit? Because it's got a #!@#!@& TAPERED thread! Who uses a M10x1.0 tapered thread? It even comes with a copper washer as if it's supposed to seal on the bottom surface of the hex part and not via the thread.

So it looks like now I get to order a die to rethread this farking thing, and wait and spend some more. Another day, another dollar (or 10), another delay... :frustrated:

jsut buy the right one to begin with

The dust shields actually act more as heat shields for the CVs from my understanding.

my2000apb wrote:jsut buy the right one to begin with

Are you offering to pony up the $160 difference between OE and this one?

Actually I found a supplier that can get an M10x1.0 die to me by tomorrow for reasonable money, so I'll just rethread it. Cost of the sender and the die will still be less than 1/3 of what the dealer wants for the OE part.

pilihp2 wrote:The dust shields actually act more as heat shields for the CVs from my understanding.

That does make sense... they probably shield the ball joint too. I'll start saving my pennies for a set of the right rotors, although my normal driving doesn't heat up the brakes much anyway.

elaw wrote:

my2000apb wrote:jsut buy the right one to begin with

Are you offering to pony up the $160 difference between OE and this one?

Actually I found a supplier that can get an M10x1.0 die to me by tomorrow for reasonable money, so I'll just rethread it. Cost of the sender and the die will still be less than 1/3 of what the dealer wants for the OE part.

youre buying it at the wrong place

So what's the right place? :?

Cheapest "genuine Audi" price I can find online is genuinevwaudiparts.com, for $139.13. Places like Autohaus advertise parts with the same number (035919561) for a lot less, but they don't look like they're made by VDO. Getting to this thing will be a real b***h once the car's put together, so I don't want to put a cheesy aftermarket one in there just to have it fail.

The one I bought is actual "made in Germany" VDO and cost 30 bucks (it's VDO p/n 360006). They give the thread spec as "M10x1k" - perhaps the "k" indicates a tapered thread? Live and learn...

The Audi/VW ones are 150$ and up, where do you suggest looking? VDO makes one, PEX makes one, but googling those part numbers pops up russian and chinese sites. I found a new VW one for 75$, but they were out of stock. VDO part number 360-081-049-001C is referenced as a substitute for AUDI/VW p/n 035919561A. I couldn't find an AAN p/n, but this is the one for every other I5.

Yeah, if you want to do things "right" it gets interesting with the AAN. Older 5-cylinders (including some AANs I think?) have two ports for oil-pressure senders and both are threaded M10x1.0 (and not tapered ). Later AANs, one of which mine is one of, have the upper hole threaded M10x1.0, but the lower hole is tapped M16x1.5. On my engine there is a plug in the lower hole, and I'm using an earlier-type gauge sender in the upper hole. There is a gauge sender available that fits in the lower hole on my engine (034919561) but that one costs even more than the 035919561 and there doesn't seem to be a generic VDO equivalent.

There is also some weirdness with the oil-pressure warning system. The UrS6 (which is what my AAN came out of) only uses one oil-pressure switch, so the single sender drives both the gauge and the warning light. The 80 uses the older setup with two switches, so I'm going to have to do some jury-rigging to make that work.

Doesn't all 20v 5cyl blocks have two ports for oil pressure senders, one with M10x1 and one with M16x1.5 threads? And there's an M16x1.5 to M10x1 adapter to be used if there's a pressure sender in that lower port. And the adapter locks in or hides the one way valve for the oil feed to cylinder head.

I don't know, this is the only 20v one I've owned! And my ETKA is broken so I can't look it up.

I know about the adapter but I just have a funny feeling I'd order it and be waiting for weeks and I'm just not that patient at this point. That area is very hard to get access to with the radiator in place, so I want to get this sorted so I can move on to installing the radiator.

Well the last few days have been good ones. No huge leaps forward, but a lot of small ones.

First, the oil-sender issue: a little work with an M10x1.0 die fixed that puppy right up, and it's now installed and happy.

Plumbing for the radiator is pretty much set, thanks in large part to these:

Those are *stainless*, not plain steel or something plated, hose couplers. They cost about 7 bucks each from siliconeintakes.com and fit and work really nicely. In contrast to the goofball setup I had on the 4K, each radiator hose on this car consists of only 2 pieces, with no weird adapting or routing. Here are some pix:


And the best part... after only 4 attempts, I finally got the intercooler right! Here it is:

Welding some cast elbows onto the IC allows it to clear the fog lights by a whopping 1/4"... but it *does* clear!

Now all I have to do is figure out how to mount that farking oil cooler.

elaw wrote:Now all I have to do is figure out how to mount that farking oil cooler.

Tuck it back into the engine bay a little bit and mount it on the pass side somewhere where the lines route well. Dryer ducting up to the hole in the front bumper. Easy peasy.

Got a box in the mail this week. You get my pm?