The Project Pad

Get that pole barn started in the side yard so I can rent some shop space from ya and I can get all my cars back in my garage ;o)

Want to take a look at whats available up near the speedway??? *evil grin*

Well, this wasn't take at BattleBorn, but since I was posting pics I thought it was appropriate to rep the TT.





Both taken not long after I moved to Vegas when I was still driving the TT myself. Just realized that was before I put the rings on it too...

Nice pictures Sean. The car looks good against the green desert. The TT has been a great car with little to no problems other than assuming that you had changed the t-belt at 60k and ending up with a basket of bent valves. Audi on Sahara wanted $6500 to repair the car which happened to be 16 days over the certified extended warranty. I told them in so many words where they could go and take their warranty and dragged it back home, bought stainless undercut intakes and inconel undercut exhaust valves, new guides and seals, had it hot tanked, surfaced, and the seats ground. This along with new head studs and gasket, put back onto the car and running ran about $650 and 400 of that was in valves. It really hasn't missed a beat in the 30k I've put on it since.

On a side note, Audi of Henderson asked my wife why she would come the 35miles across town to have them service the car when the other dealership was so much closer. She told them her husband didn't like that Audi dealership. LOL

Not much happening other than putting in a lot of time at work. I figured that I needed to update Her Urq progress even if it's not much. I drove the car about 500 miles with front brakes only because of having the proportioning valve disconnected until getting an aftermarket valve. I ended up with the Tilton adjustable valve with 10x1.0mm fittings. Is all it really took to install is a female 10x1mm coupling with din bubble to tie the master line in with the passenger front brake line.



The other thing that I have been struggling with is after 1100 miles the car has begun to be very hard to start after sitting for longer than a few hours and I didn't pass smog when trying to get it registered. I passed everything but idle HC. I figured that the hard start problem was probably leak down somewhere. I figured that the first thing I needed to do was find a fuel pressure test set to check system, control, and rest pressures. I ended up taking an old control pressure regulator line, a tee, nipple, gauge, valve, and fittings to make my own.

I started with this, but couldn't get the fittings to not leak.


I ended up cutting an original line that are steel braided plastic lines and installing the gauge and valve between the two ends.



So this is the questions. Does anyone have definite spec numbers on where I should be? I've read a few different things, but usually I come up with 65-75psi system, 25-30psi cold control @70f, 55-60psi warm control, and 23psi of resting pressure for at least 30 minutes after shutting down.

I ended up with 88psi of system.....30psi of cold control.....58psi of warm control....and 30psi of residual rest pressure for almost 2 hours. The 88psi of system seems a bit high, but the other numbers seem to be pretty good. I still need to find a meter to check duty cycle to set the CO, but adjusting the air/fuel 3mm allen lean (counter clockwise) about a 1/4 turn seemed to help idle and doesn't smell quite as rich.

Does anyone have any advise they would like to throw out? Anyone know if the old 83 metering heads have the fuel pressure regulators as part of the head or is it the screw in type on the fuel line by the passenger strut?

John,

TO adjust your CO make sure there is no vacuum leaks anywhere, then just get a multimeter with duty cycle setting. There is a small two pic connector near the Fuel Freq Valve that you need to connect to the multimeter. With engine hot the duty cycle should fluctuate anywhere between 35 and 45.
Also get yourself an O2 meter. Once duty is adjusted at idle go for a drive. Make sure she runs rich and duty cycle at 77% over 7psi or at full throttle.
The O2 should be switching nicely at cruising speed.

As for startup if the fuel press is constant after shutdown you can also look if your cold start valve is working. Even though the motor is hot the CSV will still work however just for a split second. The Thermo time switch will determine the length of time the CSV in on. It is the big brown sensor at the back of the head. You can check if the CSV is working by connecting a 12V LED and see if it lights up if you try to start when hot.
Next item to check is your press warm up reg on the block, are all the vacuum lines connected and is the thermovacuum switch working (on the cylinder head).
The maintenance docs on my page should help as well.

Hope this helps.

A few questions for you Martin.... Is the "small two pic connector near the Fuel Freq Valve" a test connector like the MC motors had?

Does 88psi of system pressure seem high?

Does the Urq metering head have the integrated pressure regulator that shims can be added or taken out to play with system pressure somewhat or is the system pressure regulated solely with the non adjustable screw in regulator on the fuel line? Are those two (regulators)? off of the supply/return fuel lines by the passenger strut towers, regulators or just check valves?

In your experience, how long should standing fuel pressure stay constant? If I understand correctly what I have read, the standing pressure shouldn't deteriorate below 23psi in the first 30 minutes after shutdown. I haven't been able to read anywhere about how long that pressure should stay at that level. It doesn't seem to make a difference whether I check this standing pressure with the warm up reg valved in or out. The WUR is doing it's job regulating control pressure from ~25psi cold to 58psi warm and all of the vac lines on it have been replaced along with the thermovacuum switch being tested good.

I need to pull the cold start and test it for function and leaking. The funny thing about making up the test gauge, is that now it is installed in place of the original line the car starts much better. Just to see I went out this morning after the car sat all night to try it and it started right up. I'm wondering if I might have had a slight fuel leak on the WUR bango fitting or maybe a small crack in the plastic line under the braid that was bleeding off that line.

I can't believe that neither of my high end Fluke meters have duty cycle settings. Oh well, I will get something to set the CO with and look for leaks a bit more. I have pretty much replaced all of my vacuum lines, but the idle bypass screw ran in all the way along with the linkage stop backed out still won't kill the engine. The best I can get it to is about 1k rpms. This leads me to wonder whether the fast idle bypass valve is closing all the way or not.

Thoughts?

Haven't done much with Her Urq lately, but decided to try to work some bugs out seeing as the Spring Mountain track event is in a month and I've signed up. It started today with trying to find a vacuume leak behind the dash. I wasn't sure if the check was holding so I tore into center console to get access to the hoses for the diff locks and A/C controls. What I found was heater ducts with mouse crap in them. The worse part of the last 2k miles that I've put on the car is the stink that comes out of the vents and although I've tried to clean it just wasn't making it. I also melted down the A/C fuse and figured the blower motor was bad so I checked it out.

This is what I found under the heater/AC housing




The little shits had even been eating on the squirrel cage.....sounds good huh?



I decided that it was time to tear all the ducts out and clean everything. By the time you get to the duct work in a Urq you are pretty far into the dash, so I decided that as long as I had an updated dash on my shelf and the original dash was pretty cracked, that I would just keep going and change out dashes..... you know as long as I'm there.




cracked dash that was in the car.


4k dash that is going in


New on the left....old on the right.



I may have bitten off more than I want or need at this time, but it will be nice to get it back clean again and a blower motor that actually runs instead of blowing mouse crap, insulation, and fuses. I don't really know where all the insulation came from, but my car has to weigh a few pounds less than stock after throwing all of it away. I hope I get it back together!!

yuck. THat should improve the smell quality of the ca. New dash looks nice though!!!!

I probably would not have talked as much when I took a test drive in your URQ if I would have known thatmice poop could have shot into my mouth at any moment.

mice do some nasty things, hopefully they don't fight back for your hostile takeover of their nest.

My wife had rats living under her hood and we used the rat poison that comes in the little individually wrapped packages. Easy to handle and they gobbled it up never to be seen again. You might leave them a little gift for when they return.

So you are thinking about bringing this to Spring Mtn? Sweet!

I think the mice are long gone and just the nests remain.

OT, but Jim, do you have a picture of yourself on a horse? I chuckle every time I think about you owning horses.

John,

I can relate! My car sat outside for 5+ years and those little turds were/ are everywhere. I now have my dash out, cleaning all the vents, etc. also.

Yea this is not a fun job!! Hank do you like the looks of your updated dash? I actually had two dashes to choose from, but the other has 4000q on the dash instead of just quattro. The bad thing is that I figured switches could be swapped over, but it doesn't look like that is the case and I don't have switches for the new instrument pod. I'm also missing the center console finishing bits and only have the basic 4k center.

Jim, I don't even think that the mice made it out of Wisconsin and look to be long gone. I did sign this car up for Spring Mountain, but I'm getting a bit on the worried side as far as being able to get it ready. With an Urq an owner will always have to worry about wiring, but now after seeing the squirrel cage nibbled on along with center vents, I have to wonder if they liked wire insulation!

David, it's nice to know someone is doing the same exact thing.....makes me feel not so crazy!!





Hank, I always thought that it was Jim in the Old Spice commercials on that horse.....you know now that he lives in Cali and has so much time and access to sun tanning! :wink: :wink: Jim I hope you and your wifes deal doesn't work horse power to horse power!! That would be a lot of horses to upkeep.

I had somewhat the same problem with my 5k when I Got it. except they had made a nest in the ac evaporator. and managed to chew through every engine wire they could think of.
lots of fun to fix that stuff. still kind of dealing with it at times.

quattro87 wrote:David, it's nice to know someone is doing the same exact thing.....makes me feel not so crazy!!

My problem is I can't seem to finish anything because I am missing a part(s), so I start something else!

I don't ride the pony, it's main purpose is to keep her out of the garage! Our deal is one horse per project car, so I have decided to pack two or three cars worth of HP into one

"while you're in there" you might as well put in a new wiring harness :wink:

Yes early to late dash is not a straight across swap from what I understand. I've never done one but Dennis tells me the wiring is slighlty different.

My CIS knowlegde gets smaller everyday but 88 psi sounds like it's in the neighborhood. But then that might not be good enough. Chasing startign issues is a major reason I converted to a 3B. There is soem sort of pressure regulatirin the metering head - it can be shimmed. Plus there is the accumulator under the car, a check valve in the pump (or accumulator) under the car. Yes check your CSV and make sure your injector fan runs - and make sure the shroud has the hole to get some air over the fuel lines. You can swap sensors for the injector fan so it comes on a lower temp.

[quote]"while you're in there" you might as well put in a new wiring harness [/quote

If I put in a new wiring harness in, it will be for the 034 IIc sitting on the shelf and I'm afraid the 20v will have to go. Hank and I were just talking about it this weekend when he came down to show off his new baby boy. I think his comment was something along the lines of "it's so clean Dad.....almost seems ashamed to kick it out for a 20vt". That is quite the statement coming from Hank. I agree and there are a bunch of purists that wont like it, but even as clean as it is and assuming I can work the starting bugs out, it still only has 165hp!! Accords have 100hp more than that and get better mileage. :( They are however still Hondas.



Dave you are right in that trying to source parts for these old audis can sometimes be an exercise in frustration. What are you lacking to put yours back together? Do you have a project page going yet?

Not fun John, my heater box looked just like that. Nasty critters.

They had the blower so crammed with junk that they couldn't even use the squirrel cage for excercise!!

quattro87 wrote:They had the blower so crammed with junk that they couldn't even use the squirrel cage for excercise!!

so they thought to turn it down so it could spin. or just plain eat it, huh?

John, now that you have opened that can of worms - or whatever came crawling out of that car, you need to read, print, and read again this following info.

Huw Powell's Dashboard Swap Info

There were some things that just didn't make sense no matter how many times I read it, but its the best info out there for the 4K dash upgrade.

speeding-g60 wrote:

quattro87 wrote:They had the blower so crammed with junk that they couldn't even use the squirrel cage for excercise!!

so they thought to turn it down so it could spin. or just plain eat it, huh?

Yea I guess so. Either that or they got it so packed they couldn't turn it and then apparently built themselves right into a corner and figured they needed to chew their way out or got hungry being trapped and all.